Dakeng trails 2, 5 and 4
Today I went to a hike I have been on previously. If you look up hiking in Taichung, this will come up at the top of the list. The Dakeng trails are quite a distance out of the city, and now even harder to get to than ever, because buses are the invention of the useless. Google has pre covid timetables, not only are the times wrong, the route has been changed. I spent well over an hour running between phantom buses that no longer exist, eventually I scanned a QR code on a bus stop, which loaded a smart website that then had a popup that said 'Due to epidemic situation, routes no longer apply correctly, please phone bus company to enquire, phone number not known'. Wow! So I decided to walk closer to the trail and see what sort of buses were around. I boarded the wrong bus, but it went closer. Then I saw a road I recognised from the last time I was here, got off the bus I was on, scanned a QR code, and this time it said a bus was coming, and it did... so I could at least get to the start of my hike, 90 minutes late.
Now, I am well known for my terribly weak Achilles tendons, tight hips, under developed lungs, and general sickly demeanour (Attention mother: am I missing anything from your long list of failings I suffer from? Physical ones, I am not including dyslexia, Asperger's, tourette's or any of the other mental disorders you claim I have been diagnosed with). So I am apparently very poorly suited to climbing up a few miles of ladders, in dense pollution. But foolishly I did anyway, again, as I have been here before without any water, and was fine. Another side note, today I bought enough water to last 3 days.
The hike is actually short in distance, but due to the unique almost completely wooden ladder filled path, it takes a long time, and balancing to take good photos is tricky. But then after finishing, the bus situation again. A lady on the trail chatted to me and asked how I got to the trail, when I said bus she did not believe me, 'bus no longer functioning', ominous sign. Actually we chatted in dual languages for a while, she was fascinated that Australian's get more than 5 days off a year, a common conversation point when I am on holidays, always after the 'how long will you stay in Taiwan' question, but I digress.
And so there was no bus at all going back to town, so I walked another 7km back to where there were a few more buses to choose from, none of which were running to any kind of published schedule, all of which were empty.
Now onto the pics.
First I caught the BRT to the MRT. This is me driving the MRT. It is driverless, so I assumed command. I made all the noises.
After the aforementioned bus saga, I was at the trailhead for Dakeng trail #2, the most popular route.
Ahh yes, miles of stepping on a steep log course ahead. With the odd broken log for you to ponder how it broke, and if you would break any and therefore break a leg.
I was going quite fast, but you will see in the next few pics that those girls stayed ahead of me, in their casual clothes with a handbag, impressive.
Now at the top of trail 2, and those 2 girls collapsed on the ground, looked like they might vomit, and were as red as beetroot. I told them they were very fast, using condescending man half assed Chinese. And the response from one of them was, I VERY SICK! OMG! So I felt a bit better about not catching and passing them. I do not know why they went up so fast, perhaps they were frightened of me? Generally the locals are really slow to avoid all sweating, apart from the strange men who go up barefoot with no shirt at full speed and then do pull ups whenever they pass a suitable branch.
Time to carry on along trail #5, which goes along the ridge at the top. There are quite a few pavilions with old folks hanging out, there is a road up the back of the mountain they may have used, but plenty climb up, then climb down backwards. Parts of the trail at the top seem to be gardens of sorts.
Some of these trees look like eucalyptus trees. I was trying to spot a koala. This is a rare section with steps instead of log ladders.
Here is one of the hang out spots. As you can see, people dry their clothes. Some people were singing, possibly drunk.
When I crossed this bridge, I think I realised last time I went up trail #4, and possibly down #3, which I bypassed today to do a longer route. But who knows, last time I walked a long way to the start of the trail and got a bus back by accident.
The bus situation meant it was just me, and a long lonely road, back to town. That's all for now, my Achilles tendons survived.
Yizhong Street Night Market
Another 40,000 step day. Surprising. The dogs are mildly barking.
Tomorrow is definitely a rest day, because I am out of clean underpants. Well out. So it will be washing day, perhaps the only washing day of this trip. I already did surveillance on a few coin laundry options.
Enough about tomorrow being boring, lets talk about tonight being boring. My hotel is on Taiwan Boulevard, at one end is Taichung city hall, where I went last night, and at the other is Taichung slow train station, where I stayed last time I was here. Tonight I intended to go back down to the old slow train station and look at the old shops and try and find the hotel I stayed in from memory, but I got sidetracked on the way. I looked down a bright street and saw a night market, so off I went.
First on my journey towards old Taichung, the Taichung 2nd market. Old and dilapidated. Near where I stayed last time, which is clearly the old centre of town with lots of old stuff. It is a morning market but there are other shops inside, some are quite nice despite external appearances.
Now for an early night market shot. It is shots like this where I am glad to have a zoom lense, scene compression.
This is not Coco curry. It is omurice, but it came from a food court near Coco curry. Because once again I was turned away from Coco curry for being on my own. They hate me all across Taiwan. From Yilan to Taichung, the word is out, keep this guy out of our stores! Anyway, my omurice was ok, and cheaper than it would have been at Coco. I feel as though I must now try and get turned away from every branch I see, no matter the time or place.
Here is the Chungyo department store, and it is truly massive. I vaguely remember catching a bus from here last time I was here, and checking it out briefly. If you look closely there are 3 towers, and underground across 4 basement levels, it is all one giant area with about 50 places to eat.
And finally, now that it was dark, I went back through the Yizhong street night market, which was surprisingly not too busy, and then successfully caught a bus back to my hotel along Taiwan Boulevard. There is another much larger night market for tomorrow.
Taichung natural science history museum
First as promised, I had to do my washing (laundry). This required google translate, as I had to buy a card, add value, certain cycles added detergent automatically, others you had to add your own, after inserting my card I added value to I had to press a button repeatedly to take money from the card etc. All That is fine, but the surprising thing was, there were 6 dryers, and all were full of dry clothes with the cycle completed, and no one was around. Then someone else came in, took someones clothes out of the dryer and put them into a container and placed a laminated card on top that said something like 'You left your clothes unattended, so now I had to fondle them for you'.
It seems to be an accepted procedure to take someone's clothes out of the dryer. If you tried that in some countries, you would get shot. In the face. Repeatedly.
Washing my clothes took a couple of hours, it was a big load and I like to dry on low, so after that, it was the other rest day favourite activity, museum time.
I may or may not have been to this museum before, it is one of the main attractions of Taichung, of which there are not many, but on this visit, I learnt quite a few new spurious facts.
The general vibe of the coin laundry. It has no doors, so it is truly open 24 hours. I am standing in the street to take this shot.
Someone thought it would be a quick way to clean their dog and or cat, so now there is a sticker on everything telling you to not do that.
Next up, the natural history museum botanic gardens (that is a mouthful). A nice place for a stroll, many locals were strolling here with a Beijing taxi singlet, which is where you fold your shirt up under your armpits so your fat guts gets aired.
Well, it is a tropical rain forest conservatory. Do they need that here? Under it, there is a learning centre, but first, I had to judge the orchid competition, as a special foreign guest judge.
The conservatory has a waterfall, a small pond, and instead of gold fish, these awesome prehistoric dinosaur fish. They are big, I think the big one here is probably 5 feet long.
I thought I would be able to climb up this tower and leap off the diving board into the fish filled world below, but alas, no, no public access.
Across the road is the actual natural history museum, $4 entry fee. After entering, this is the very first exhibit. Interesting, turns out it is a period shaming exhibit, like we have in all Australian supermarkets now.
The building is not as grand as I expected, because the museum is huge, but like a lot of things in Taiwan, a lot of it is underground. Here is the forecourt, around the outside are stalactites pulled out of caves. I thought they must be fake, but no, inside they have a video of them removing them from a cave somewhere.
After the history of the shame of menstruation, the next exhibit was, the history of the history museum. I was thinking I wanted my $4 back at this point.
Now for the most controversial exhibit. Taiwan is the cradle of all civilization in the world. This map proves it. Taiwan has the oldest date, everything else followed. The arrow to Australia is the most recent. I expect a new 42 dash line soon.
The history of Chinese scientific discoveries. 99% of the museum focuses on Chinese achievements, and Taiwan definitely presents itself as part of China here. There is one small section on the native Taiwanese culture, but it is mixed in with Hawaii, Papua New Guinea etc. Japan does not get any kind of mention.
Over 90% of visitors seem to have only bothered going to the animatronic dinosaur part of the museum.
And now another amazing thing. Giant bugs once roamed the earth. Larger than any dinosaur. Elephant for scale. Overall the museum is good for at least 2 hours. Now to try on my clothes and suspect they all shrunk in the wash.
Feng Chia night market
The Feng Chia night market area is undoubtedly the trendiest and busiest part of Taichung. It might be coming off a low base, but I still thought it was pretty good. Hard to capture the vibrancy properly without getting run over, even the closed off streets still have speeding scooters, and the best shops and restaurants are along the edge of the busy road with no footpath and buses flying past. Taiwan needs to fix this.
Dinner was a healthy option, it even had pineapple in it, all true patriots have to eat Taiwanese pineapple, they used to send them all to the mainland, but now that President Biden said China is not allowed to have computers anymore, so China has banned Taiwanese pineapples.
After today's rest day, which still ended up at 30,000 steps, I have a bigger plan tomorrow, involving mountains and fire. So I better do my research and go to bed early so I can get up early and beat the Sunday hiking crowd.
Long time readers, that is readers from last year, will remember my constant raving about open sewer parks in Korea. Well here is one in Taiwan. This one is not up to Korean standard, you cannot descend down into the sewer and walk along it.
The healthy dinner. Poke I guess, but I get chicken, and kind of make it into a burrito bowl. Delicious, especially the pineapple. I will probably have similar again at some point.
Not a petrol station, an ice tea station. I suspect they converted an actual petrol pump, it is the same colour and looks the same as the pumps in the main CPC petrol stations. I hope they rinsed it out properly first.
There are lot of shops like this in and around the night market area, which is of course, also a major university. And where there are university students, there is a need to spend hundreds of dollars on giant Godzilla models.
Example of, walking along the road with traffic. Made all the more dangerous when you take photos of it.
Last shot tonight, another busy road back to where I can hop on the rapid bus back to my hotel. I managed to not get run over.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2023-05-14 said:
There are actually underground scooter parking areas everywhere, some very large
mother on 2023-05-13 said:
Perhaps they need parking buildings for all the scooters so they can make footpaths where they are all currently parked.
David on 2023-05-13 said:
abridged versions
adriana on 2023-05-13 said:
were any of the explanations in the museum in English?
Flame Mountain from Tai'an station
Somehow I missed the main spot for taking a photo on flame mountain, oh well, I still got a few half decent shots of the new hot instagram spot featuring badly eroded hills that is sometimes referred to as Taiwan's grand canyon.
Apparently, it used to be illegal to hike here, after a few people tried to climb the eroded hills and died. Then you needed a guide and a permit, or maybe just a permit with lies being told by people selling themselves as a guide. But the good news is, this hike is now open for all. Taiwan does have a lot of hikes that really do require a permit, some of which you need to enter a lottery to win a permit, but I read they are planning to scale back this silly system.
Getting to flame (sometimes called fire) mountain is actually relatively straight forward, because you do not need a bus. Some say you need a car. Allow me to explain.
From Taichung you can get the slow local train to Tai'an, it is about a 40 minute journey. Then you have a 4km hike to the start of the trail, you will need to do that same 4km again at the end, so this adds 8km (more like 9km if you detour to the 7-eleven for supplies) to the 7km hike. So make sure you know how to handle approx 4.5 hours (some of it running) or 30,000 steps.
After having said all that, it is a relatively easy hike, with some different views (not all green), and a path that is an actual hiking trail rather than a concrete staircase. Onto the pics.
I caught the MRT to Songzhu station where I changed to the slow train to Tai'an, this seemed quicker than taking the BRT to Taichung main station. Here is Songzhu station on the outskirts of Taichung.
Tai'an station is in the literal middle of nowhere. There is a train park with a cafe but no convenience store. I will show the train park on my way back. The nearest convenience store is on the nearby highway, and it is a very good one, larger than the ones in the city.
My journey to the start of the hike went through various small farms, this one growing cherry tomatoes.
Of course there is also rice, and that is my mountain in the background. You can see the eroded cliffs it is famous for.
I had to cross over a long bridge over some flood control areas, there is no footpath! But not too much traffic. Here is the view from the bridge.
I ended up missing the main view spot, because there is a rock stair case like this just back from the edge, and many signs telling you to not go near the edge. Wherever those signs are, is where the good views are!
This is the best kind of path. There were a few other people at the start of the hike today, but they mostly stopped at the view spot (that I missed) and went back down again.
This is the best I got of Taiwan's grand canyon. I should have done a better job of finding a spot around to the right, I have seen some photos that look directly down the valley.
View from the top, or a top anyway. At this point I realised I had missed the view spot, because now it was green in all directions.
Here are the farmlands I walked through to get to the hike. Very flat. This is what farms in Taiwan look like, small, green, with buildings everywhere.
As far as distance goes, this little spot is the half way point. But it is probably more than half way as far as time goes as it is mostly flat and down hill from here. I think you can take a shortcut along the blue bit of the map from here, I took the green bit to the actual highest point of the trail.
Right at the end of the hike, here is a guy selling hiking equipment. This is the end of the hike, everyone follows the clockwork course. So I guess the idea is you buy gear here because whatever you used today was useless?
On my 4km walk back to the train, I thought I might go over the flood control area on this water pipe rather than the bridge you can see to the right that has no footpaths. I pondered briefly then decided against it. It definitely would have been safer!
As promised here is the train park cafe area at Tai'an station. It appeared to be open for lunch. You cant see it here, but there are actual train carriages instead of buildings.
And since I had 20 minutes to kill until the train. The stance. I look fat?! Especially my face. Tonight will probably be a shorter outing.
Exploring the Qiqi district of Taichung
First of all, I went back and looked at my previous visit to Taichung from 2014. I now realise I had been to the museum with the giant butterfly before, and even the same Japanese themed food street before. But many of the tall buildings I will show tonight were not here then.
The Qiqi district is the 7th (qi) redevelopment zone of Taichung. According to an article I just read, prior to building skyscrapers there were nothing but a few farmhouses here. This explains why it is far from the old city, they didn't just bulldoze and rebuild, they found a new spot for the new city.
The buildings are nice, there are footpaths, but there are no people. I do not think it is a ghost town, but I think most people who live here still go to the old night market areas rather than hang out at a wine bar in Qiqi.
I was bloody starving. First I tried to go for fancy ramen in Japanese food street, but that was a 60 minute wait! at 6pm! So I went back to the food court for pork and beef double steak surprise. It was great.
There are of course malls in this area, I think I ate at this one in 2014, when it was on the edge of town.
Back close to city hall now, here are some more decorative commercial buildings, the previous ones were mainly apartments, at least on the upper levels, there are always shops at the bottom.
One last architecture shot for this evening. These were all taken hand held, under exposed, and heavily edited to find something viewable. Tomorrow is a rest day. I have no plan!
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
mother on 2023-05-14 said:
Nice to see such clean stations, streets and walking trails. You definitely do not look fat! Also fabulous architecture in the new bit tonight.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2023-05-12 said:
Looks like mini skirts are in fashion
山雪 on 2023-05-12 said:
这 条 路线 非常。 你 的 膝盖 一 定 很 痛。
Brian on 2023-05-12 said:
Interesting walkway/bridge