From Houtong to Jiufen on foot
No, not raining cats and dogs, there is no rain, but actual cats and dogs. Today I walked from the Houtong cat village (popular with tourists), past an abandoned temple filled with wild dogs (infamous with hikers) to Jiufen (#1 tourist spot in all of Taiwan and setting of famous anime 'spirited away').
I had been to both Houtong and Jiufen before on previous trips, although my previous visit to Houtong was in a torrential all day downpour. Having said that, today I was at Houtong very early, so there were cats, but none of the cat related shops were open. Oh well. Then I took a surprisingly short not even 2 hour hike over a couple of hills up a mystery staircase after fighting off wild dogs, let me explain.
Every person that has been on the the Dacukeng trail talks about the dog situation. I am afraid of all dogs, even the little white fluffy ones, so the thought of a pack of wild dogs got the heart racing more than the hike. So infamous is this location, that people tell tales of an old man that hands out sticks to fight off the dogs as you go past. I saw no old man, but I did see a pile of sticks! And so I took one, and put it back in the similar pile of sticks just past the temple for those coming in the opposite direction.
The dogs did charge me, they did go crazy barking, there were 5 of them, but they were pretty small, and after about a minute of presumably laughing at me from afar, an old man emerged from the not really abandoned temple and yelled at the dogs who retreated. I waved my stick about at them anyway, but I do not think it was really needed.
Also, surprisingly, I saw zero other people on this hike. Even the trails above Jiufen that are more like an urban park with a great view. And on that note, 37 pics, so I better get onto it.
Houtong station. Everything is cat themed. Last time I was here it was raining so this bit was full of cats. None today.
Houtong station. There are probably 10 cats in this photo. OK enough of Houtong, time to go fight dogs.
I headed in this direction. The people living in the places on the right have a lot of confidence in flood levels.
There really are cats everywhere. This little one followed me for a while, so a photo for effort. There is cat food left for them EVERYWHERE.
I suspect that is Teapot Mountain in the distance, which is around a bit from Jiufen. I climbed Teapot Mountain on a previous visit, on a hilariously windy day.
There are many old abandoned places like this, I think the whole area was gold and then coal mining.
OK, so I knew this is where the dogs are, and yet no dogs. So I took a photo, it was not my plan to hang about and take a photo. As soon as I took the photo and looked at the screen on my camera, the dogs came out and charged me! But it really was not as bad as others have mentioned. Perhaps everyone else exaggerates more than I do? I did however decide it was unwise to attempt to take a photo of the dogs while waving my stick about, and growling at them. One review of the hike mentioned that a blonde coloured dog took a particular dislike to the black person in their hiking group. Dogs are no different to humans. Also, incense burner.
Not sweaty today, in fact it was a bit chilly up here. My head looks particularly huge (physically).
I was already over the top and looking down the other side to the ocean. Short hike today, only 2 hours, most people say it takes 3 to 4 hours, not sure how, I was going slower than normal too.
Here is population decline in effect. Taiwan's population is shrinking the equal fastest in the world with Korea. The websites I read about this hike show this school as being operational. It is now abandoned.
Perhaps it is abandoned because 2020 generation kids refuse to walk up a few hundred stairs to get to school?
Another cat, on his red carpet. They just laze about as tourists take photos, waiting to be photographed.
Now for a look at Jiufen old street. I was early so it was not busy, and most places were not even open yet. Despite that, still a lot of tourists. Also, a store dog.
There are no photo signs on most shops. They take this seriously, I saw others getting yelled at severely. I do not understand this, the entire place exists only because of photos. It is an exclusively for the purpose of taking money from tourists town. That is a police scooter, read on...
Be warned, there were hippy looking people wanting to talk to me complete with 9 backpacks each, and also a gang of who I will very stereotypically assume were South Americans (that is like saying Orientals!) that I am pretty sure were pick pockets, who the police were observing closely. Apparently tourism to Taiwan is less than 10% of what it was pre covid still, so pickings are slim. A bunch of backpackers also tried to chat to me on the bus on the way back, I told them I was working, that did not stop them asking me if I wanted to go to lunch with them. They were taken aback when my answer was 'absolutely not!'.
I have never done a great job of photographing Jiufen ancient shopping tourist street. But there you go.
To get back to Taipei, or in my case Keelung, you first take a bus to Ruifang. There is no train station at Jiufen. Ruifang is the biggest actual town / city inland in the mountains. There were a lot of roadworks going on.
A short walk to Sankeng and then back to Keelung for dinner
Believe it or not, a very traditional Taiwanese meal is steak. It is often served in night markets on a hot plate, just as I had it tonight in an all you can eat restaurant. It also sometimes served in a bag after being blow torched from frozen, but that is a different experience.
Some of the night market places take various off cuts and hammer them together to form a 'steak', where as the sit down all you can eat places advertise their steak as coming from... New Zealand. It seems Taiwan follows the motherlands lead and mainly imports food from New Zealand instead of Australia.
BTW, closed on Monday often extends to Tuesday, so much like Australia, if restaurants close 2 nights a week it is Monday and Tuesday. Steak was my 2nd choice after a fancy vegetarian place, which was closed on Tuesday.
Before settling on steak, I went for a walk that was shorter than I expected to the next station up the line at Sankeng. I am starting to realise that Keelung is a smaller place than I first thought.
Not many pics this evening, too many earlier today.
There are level crossings! This seems like a really really bad idea. They make the same noise as level crossings in Tokyo.
I walked along a rather interesting path up the middle of the tracks, undercover, and seemingly linking a school with the main part of Keelung. Before very long at all, I arrived at Sankeng station. It is probably closer to my hotel than Keelung station, which is to say, not far.
On my way back to Keelung, I stopped at the outdoor hi-fi shop. These really are for sale, they really are left outside overnight.
Here is my steak. It was about $15 for this steak, plus all you can eat salad bar, dessert bar, soft drinks and soft serve ice cream. This is the equivalent of 2 x cremia ice creams (I still have not recovered from the cremia ice cream price shock...). I am confident this will be the most expensive meal of this trip. The steak was surprisingly large, and surprisingly rare. They are always served on top of spaghetti and and egg, no choice! I put the salad on the griddle once I made room, and mixed it with the spaghetti. Also, despite the picture menu having English, this is the first place where there was absolutely no English spoken, to the point where my Chinese was better than their English. I had to choose how I wanted my steak cooked (medium, it came out blue...) and the sauce I wanted (tomato mushroom, which was strangely sweet so I didn't eat it). A very formally dressed Taiwanese lady at a nearby table came and told me about how it is all you can eat and drink, I had a brief conversation with here in Chinglish about how I can speak mandarin well enough, but struggle to understand the waitress when she talks too fast etc. she went back to her table and her kids were thrilled that their mother spoke to the weird foreigner.
Now after talking shit about talking Chinese, time to check on the night market. Much busier on Tuesday than Monday. More people, more stalls. There were a few foreigners around too, I think a cruise ship had arrived during the day.
Not a great pic, but these are little tomatoes. I think they are glazed in a sweet sauce. It is common when you buy fruit salad in Taiwan, China etc. that you get pineapple, melon, and tomatoes. They are technically a fruit I suppose.
Lovers lake and Danwulun fort
Not great photos today. Blue sky and plain green scenery. A strange thing to whine about. A bit more cloud, some rocky terrain and coloured trees would make for far better pics, which requires a non tropical environment. Weather update - fantastic, clear blue sky, nice breeze, not humid, maybe 25c.
OK, I thought today's walk would be quite short, so instead I made it long. First up was the lovers lake. Lots of old people were there doing a slow lap of the lake. Many were keen to talk to me in English. They were quite annoyed to learn that this is my 5th visit to Taiwan, I do not think they really understood that I have been 5 times as a tourist.
Around the lake you can see thousands of turtles, swimming in the water or basking on a log, but they are hard to photograph, even with zoom. Getting to the lake was about a 3km walk up a concrete path from a busy road with a bus every 2 minutes, I think there are buses to the lake park entrance, but they are irregular. There were a lot of tour buses though, even at the early hour I was there.
After lapping the lake, you can then take the mountain trail. Not much of a mountain, but it does go to Eagle Rock, where Daddy Cool jumped off, then to Lovers Tower and then if you have still not had enough, you can go to Danwulun fort. Obviously I went to the fort, because it's a fort!
I then saw a trail down to the ocean, ok... But there are only about 4 buses a day along the ocean road, it is a long way, with no shops and no shade, so be prepared to walk another 10km back to Keelung station. I did just that.
Keelung port, on a very bright, blue day. I learnt today that that there are a lot of military bases around here, with fairly weak security, you can look at the tanks through the fence for example. There were cameras everywhere so I did not take a photo.
The park entrance has an 'ancient engine'. In Taiwan they had trains in ancient times, such an advanced civilization.
Sadly, the best I could do for a turtle shot. I can go eat one later. Also grass jelly is made from turtle shells.
A very bouncy suspension bridge. A lady doing Tai Chi here was keen to tell me about how she had visited America to see her sister. Thanks for that.
Onto the mountain trail. That is an island. There is an island here somewhere you can take a day trip to. I do not know if that is the one. Either way, I won't be taking a day trip to an island.
Danwulun fort. It is not clear when it was built or who built it. The signs say it was mainly an ammunition warehouse. The brick bits in this shot look new to me.
Next I spotted the path down to the sea, the haixing trail to be precise. A slightly less developed trail, but of the non slippery kind.
I could have gone around there to the tourist beach, but I decided to head back to Keelung in the opposite direction. I think it is probably easier to find a bus if you go towards the beach, or go back over the hill to the lake even.
Despite this being a very industrial area, there is an open sea pool for old folks to strip off and strut about. A couple are swimming in it though, including a snorkeler beyond the sea wall. It is well known that in general, Taiwanese people are terrified of water, and most cannot swim, this might be from something called the Ghost Festival - 'People should avoid swimming, and bodies of water, so that evil spirits cannot drown the living, and gain a second chance at life'. I just looked up Taiwan fear of swimming and there seems to be scholarly articles about the topic, with the suggestion being that they have the lowest percentage of people able to swim in the world, and when they tried to introduce it to schools, there were protests.
Instead of swimming, you can cross the road and hang your washing out in the street. This was a feature for much of my long walk back to Keelung. Time for a cake for lunch!
Fo Guang Shan and Zhupu altar
Somehow, an accidental 40,000 steps day. Oh well.
Tonight I went to a place I went the last time I came here. I will go and review those pics at some point to see what has changed.
On top of a hill in Keelung is the Zhupu altar, it may or may not belong to the Fo Guang Shan temple below it, who also may or may not own the big Buddha which is also shown below.
Fo Guang Shan are the richest of all the Buddhist cults, I have previously visited their huge amusement park like palace near Kaohsiung, and in Australia I visited their branch near Wollongong on xmas day. So somehow, I am an accidental fan of Fo Guang Shan?
The view is great, and the light was excellent.
The walk down was also very interesting, many interconnected stairways through peoples living rooms.
Then it was time to go and eat some noodles made in the street, take one last shot of the night market, and now I have to work out how to get to my hotel in Taichung tomorrow.
Sadly, this has been made more difficult because a crane fell onto the above ground subway train carriage there today, and killed a person. So I presume it is not running. I am fortunate it did not happen tomorrow while I was on it. The high speed rail station in Taichung is far out of town, I had planned to take the subway to my hotel, instead I will have to transfer to the slow train and walk, or a bus, or both.
Very good light as I set out on my late afternoon stroll. I better head up the hill for the view then.
Here is the Zhupu altar. It is currently closed for repairs. However I snuck around the construction site anyway.
Great views already, that orange bridge thing on the left is under construction... I guess I will wander out along it.
A rather dystopian view of the Buddhist theme park viewing platform experience for the people who now live under it.
As mentioned, I decided on made in the street noodles for dinner. Many places have a few indoor seats, but generally the food itself is made just outside the shop, so the steam / smoke / oil / heat can just become part of the street rather than part of the shop. The wontons are allegedly vegetarian, hence green, but the soup has pork in it. Not a bad meal for $3.
Next I discovered that the canal near my hotel goes around a 45 degree bend and keeps going for miles. This became a newer part of the city, with a few nicer high rise apartment buildings. I probably should have investigated on another night, looks like where the rich people live.
FINAL shot of Keelung night market. Even busier than Tuesday on a Wednesday. As mentioned, tomorrow, I go to Taichung, a much bigger city.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-05-10 said:
Guanyin is the goddess of mercy, not a buddha. Best light shots tonight.
Phil on 2023-05-10 said:
I am still smiling about the "dog thrashing sticks" only you would pick up on that.
mother on 2023-05-10 said:
The open sea pool has interesting rocks out in the sea which seem to have a road cut through them??
Keelung to Taichung on mainly the HSR
Hotel photo lovers rejoice. I took 4 photos of the hotel.
The reason, the entire very large hotel is themed like the inside of an airliner. The windows on the outside are shaped like plane windows, and as you shall see, my bed and room furniture is made to look like I am on a plane. Although somehow, I got no window, even though my room is enormous.
Getting here involved 3 trains. First a fancy slow train from Keelung to Nangang (35 minutes), which is the High speed train terminus station in Taipei. Then the high speed business class train from Nangang to Taichung (1 hour 15 minutes) which is halfway down the west coast of Taiwan. Then the Taichung above ground subway MRT line to Taichung city hall station, past the fatal crane smashing into train accident from yesterday, line already reopened (20 minutes). Then a 30 minute walk to my hotel rather than try and get on the bus with my bag. And after all of that, still too early to check in.
So now I am in Taiwan's recently moved into second place largest city of Taichung, renowned for being the city with nothing for tourists to do, in a country renowned for having nothing for tourists to do. I have been here before, years ago, but stayed in a very different part of the city, in those days, there was no subway MRT either.
This is standard class on the slow TRA train, looks the same as first class, but 4 seats instead of 3.
Here are the very familiar to me, and quite old high speed trains, waiting to start their journey at Nangang. There were 4 in the station in total.
Arriving in Taichung, on what is surely the most boring day of all photos, here is the view from the high speed rail station, which is far outside of the actual city.
The HSR station is very modern with many nice restaurants. I remembered that from when I visited here briefly on my previous Taiwan trip before transferring to a bus to go up into the mountains to Puli.
My hotel is attached to a Sogo department store, and over the road is another department store. They are linked by this under road walkway, full of political protest messages. There was a section dedicated to Hong Kong protests.
Plane themed furniture. THE ROOM HAS CARPET! (capitals to prevent my mother from phoning me to tell me that the room has carpet).
Exploring Taichung city hall area
Taichung reminds me of a new large mainland Chinese city. Well the city hall area of the city does, I expect the old station area still looks like Keelung.
The buildings are tall and very modern ancient looking, that's a new aesthetic I just made up. The streets are wide. The infrastructure is overtly grandiose. The only thing that makes it Taiwan and non Nanjing or Hangzhou is that it is about 1/10th the size, and there are millions of scooters. Mainlanders all have cars these days.
Also, there are food courts, I could not find any in Keelung, tonight I had my choice of at least 4, so basically its all over as far as searching for food goes, I could stay here for a month and not run out of food court options. The theme of this trip is food court.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, bus shenanigans permitting. I hope to go back to a place that provided a photo that was my phone background for many years. This time I will remember to take water...
First up, bonus hotel pic. The hallways are lined with plane windows, with embedded video screens showing footage shot out of a plane window.
Modern tree lined streets. Actually it is a bit of a grey polluted day, I doubt that will change any time soon.
Here is a funky cafe street, where everyone has added plants to the footpath, but they have at least left a bit wide enough for pedestrians.
Yeah, it's just another temple, but wait, who is that creepy golden dude perched on the top? Also the horse on the right has a detailed pink asshole painted on. Nice work.
Here is the above ground subway the crane fell on that I rode on earlier. It is a driverless system.
Running down the main road is the former BRT (bus rapid transport). The middle lanes used to be only for buses. There was talk of making every intersection an overpass but it never happened. Originally there were very long 3 section bendy buses, now it is just normal buses. They still come very often, but most intersections have count down timers for a minimum of 90 seconds, so it is not a particularly rapid bus transit system. I rode on it back to my hotel to practice for tomorrow when I need to ride it to get to my hiking trail.
I stood in this spot last time I was here, at that time Taichung city hall was still under construction.
The best I could do for for a photo of this branch of Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, I did not eat my dinner here, I went to a nearby larger shopping mall, but Shin Kong had the usual basement food court options.
The upper levels have a Japan themed eating street. Might be worth a visit on another night for some ramen.
However, I went to Food Republic, the greatest Republic of all. Lots of choices and lots of spare seats.
Beef noodle! I was in two minds, but the plate full of spinach I saw them serving up swayed me. My food safety tip, whenever you get soup and other things with it, put everything in the soup to kill anything living in it. The fatty bits in the meat are the best bits.
Here is the best I could do to show how Taichung looks like a mainland Chinese city. The tops of the buildings in particular.
I love road overpasses, not only can I take photos from them, here I can take photos of them, thanks to some purple LED lights.
And for my final pic tonight, A themed 7-eleven, snoopy themed. Both Taiwan and China love snoopy for some reason, I read about why once but forgot the reason.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-05-11 said:
I wonder if the Mitsukoshi department store is totally Japanese in what they sell - especially the food.
mother on 2023-05-11 said:
excellent hotel room with bath, but no picture of the outside!
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
John on 2023-05-10 said:
Your photo makes the canal houses look attractive.
Also, masks look like they are worn less than when I was there 2 months ago. Hard to judge from photos though.
David on 2023-05-10 said:
I suspect the main reason you like train pictures is because you know how to write in using HanZi
traditional chinese even has a different character for che (the car part of huo che, fire car), simplified - 车, traditional - 車, which appears to be 5 strokes vs 8
山雪 on 2023-05-09 said:
火车 照片 很 好
David on 2023-05-09 said:
I have not noticed anything smelling damp or mouldy other than my sweaty clothes...
mother on 2023-05-09 said:
I see a beach with a peninsula for you to walk round. Also do all those dilapidated neighbourhoods smell damp and moldy in all the humidity?