From Shilin to Beitou to Tamsui
A grey non hiking day. Rain was forecast. And yet so far still no rain.
Despite all that, I managed to get quite sun burnt on my visit to 3 different areas. I hate sunscreen, the boffins working on things we do not need like space travel and clean drinking water should really be working on effective ways to shade the earth from the sun, or alternatively some kind of permanent diamond coating I can have applied for a small fortune, dealers choice.
To achieve getting burnt, I went to 3 different places, I will describe each.
1. Shilin
This is where the largest and most touristy night market is. I was here at 8am where I got off the train to find a coffee, the earliest any cafe opens on a Sunday is 8am. I was successful, coffee was had, but there is a cheese shortage in Taiwan so bagels only come with butter these days. So an important reminder to all, if you are coming to Taiwan, bring your own cheese related products. After my bagel with butter I re-boarded the subway.
2. Beitou
This is where the hot springs live. As you shall see there is a spur line that goes up the hill so all the old folks can get to the communal pools and exchange foot fungus in the perfect combo of slightly acidic warmed to virus breeding temperature water.
It is a very popular spot and full of Onsen style hotels named after parts of Japan. I think Japanese people come here a lot to visit a hot spring town for half the price of doing so in their own country.
3. Tamsui
The name particularly annoys me as it is actually DanShui which means fresh water. Taiwan has mostly changed the names of places to the more westernised Pinyin, but not those that are well known names, including Taipei itself which is actually TaiBei, but I am on a rant now. Whoever made the old translations was deaf, drunk or both.
Anyway, I have been to Tamsui before, it is also a very popular place, with an old street and water front fair ground style attractions. It was not too busy on a Sunday morning. I decided to walk all the way north to the fisherman's wharf where a new tram connects back to the MRT (subway), this is how I got burnt. My top tip - fisherman's wharf is not worth the effort!
Here is the area under Shilin station. I was on the hunt for a cafe that was actually open. It was very grey, and cold! Locals were wearing their puffer jackets. In the breeze it felt like it was not ever 20c.
The subway here is above ground, like the Melbourne sky rail. You can get a great view, that is Yangminshan in the distance covered in cloud, possible destination tomorrow, although it is Labour day tomorrow so maybe not.
I got off at Beitou and walked up the hill rather than going on the little spur line train, this took me past a market, so I took a photo. Scooters ride through every market in Taiwan, it is annoying.
More of the Beitou market, it seems very clean! Actually everything so far has seemed very clean compared to what I remember from previous visits, old in many places, but clean.
However if I did not follow the false hiking trail sign I would not have got to fight with this cat. He won.
This is now the start of the hot springs area. Multi coloured lilies greeted me. I really want to spell liliies with an extra L.
Thermal valley, probably the main spot to breathe sulphur, it is free. The hot springs where you soak your feet are free but I think you need a booking? There seemed to be 2 hour slots to enter and an app involved. Not that I would actually put my feet in the water, but I did want to take some zoom shots of barnacle covered old people feet.
The original train line did go here, there is an old train behind me, and this is the old very Japanese looking station. There is also a newer station further behind me with a train that goes 1 stop back to the main line along the coast as you shall see below...
The one stop train goes very slowly so you can look at the holographic art and take photos with anime characters. I did both.
Now to start walking around Tamsui. That mountain across the other side of the river is smaller than it looks, I climbed over it from the far side years ago, and then took a ferry back across to where I am standing here.
A view of part of Tamsui old street, one street back from the water front with the ice cream shops and children's rides. It goes for a long way, with lots of side alleys that are very crowded. I was too early of course, the food markets were very busy but the non food places were still opening. I am generally, too early, for everything.
Between Tamsui and the fisherman's wharf I followed a bike path along the water and got burnt. Here is the customs house or something like that. There are a few old buildings that are cafes, others are museums etc.
Now for fisherman's wharf. Someone spent a lot of money on an already failed development. Most of the shops have closed down. There is a giant hotel and I think there is a golf course. The bridge is just for pedestrians, but currently it goes nowhere. The only reason to come here currently is to go back again on the tram.
It is actually a working fisherman's wharf, but they seem to take Sunday off. That big red pole sticking up is a mechanical lookout thing that goes up the outside of it, or it used to, it has also closed down.
And for the final pic, a tram. Actually 2 trams. Just like the Melbourne trams. Fisherman's wharf is the end of the line, they take a very strange route back to the above ground subway which takes about an hour and goes at walking speed for extended periods. It is still new enough that locals enjoy taking photos of it, inside and out. Tomorrow I will be applying sunscreen.
Shilin night market
Earlier today I got off a train at Shilin and had a coffee at 8am. Tonight I returned in the evening and went to the night market.
I have no doubt that it is the busiest place in Taiwan, I was there early, before night at a night market, and parts of it were already uncomfortably crushing.
It is here that apparently many strange foods now popular around the world were claimed to be invented, but probably just popularized. Obun's, steak in a bag, chicken schnitzel in a bag, actually you can find in Australia a few places have on their signs 'from the Shilin market in Taiwan' or similar.
The longest line was for blow torched mushrooms, I heard a guy walking up and down the line yelling one hour, plus some other gibberish I could not understand, so I assume he was yelling at people in the line for his store that it was a one hour wait, get out of the line you fools!
Of course, the long lines everywhere, and my general dislike of standing in the street eating stuff off a stick or out of a bag in a crowd meant that I fled back to the safety of a food court, for some great Taiwanese food.
I started at the far end from a station away. There was room to move here, and a lot of Japanese restaurants. However when I went back here an hour or so later they all had big lines already.
Super busy. I cannot believe there are still any squid left in the sea, I better explain that comment, lots of the shops are blow torching whole squid, which then get put on a stick and put in a bag.
There are temples everywhere, some look somewhat official like this, others look like a money laundering front.
Here is the head of the queue of the blow torched mushroom food stand. I kind of wanted to try it, but I was not willing to stand in a line for 50 minutes and then decide I cannot be bothered waiting any longer.
Google told me this Japanese ramen place is TOP RATED, so there is a big line going down the street off to the right.
This temple was up a long dark alley, with various questionable establishments leading to this dead end, where there are no people.
I have read that all these places with lots of claw machines are specifically set up for money laundering purposes. Note that it is in a very busy part of the Shilin market, where you basically cannot move, and yet not a single customer is in there.
There are a lot of toilet themed cafes in Taiwan. I have no idea if this is actually the original one. It is very popular with people that make videos on Youtube.
Another intriguing store front. Do you just go to the screen and transfer your money to someones Russian bank account and it gives you a receipt telling you that you just lost your money? There is a bitcoin ATM in the Emporium mall in Melbourne that I never saw anyone use. If I recall correctly, there are also ones that issue you with a fake gold bitcoin, so you can prove that you own bitcoin after you insert your credit card.
That giant sphere on a building is not a shopping mall, it is seemingly just offices, with the Audi logo.
After I boarded the train I went down 3 levels under the main station to U square, a place I have been on previous trips. The food court is excellent.
I previously enjoyed this vegetarian buffet, however now that everyone has COVID, I am not sure how I feel about eating all you can sneeze on.
So instead, I had the most Taiwanese of all meals, beef noodle soup. Not bad, I have had better, I will have better before the end of this trip.
Yangmingshan Qixing peak
If you suffer from chronic flatulence, then today's hike is for you.
It was my third time doing this hike, and the first time when the peak was not completely covered in fog. The fantastic aroma of volcanic sulphur accompanies you basically the whole way.
Getting here can be a challenge, today is a half national holiday, private sector workers get the day off to protest for worker rights, but schools and government departments do not get a holiday.
I dutifully got up early, and caught the subway to the bus stop, to get on the red 5 bus, I was early, but the line was long.
Much to my surprise, near the start of the hike, the bus made a detour up a one way street in the wrong direction and stopped at an enormous looking university on the side of the mountain, and nearly everyone except me and a few old folks got off the bus. Strange place to go to University, battling the hiking crowds on the bus every day must be annoying.
The hike was still quite busy, but not as busy as I was expecting. Ordinarily I would never go to a popular place on a holiday, but when I woke up and saw that not only was the sky almost pollution free, but also it was blowing a gale, sure to keep much of the pollution away, or bring fresh pollution in, I have no idea! I decided once I stepped outside and could see Yangmingshan clearly, that I would go up it today and battle the crowds.
Lots of pics, my shit camera struggles with high contrast scenes with a lot of highlights, oh well.
Today's path is very developed, steps like this, but also moss covered slippery rounded steps. Be careful! I managed to not slip over, I did on previous visits.
The visitor centre looked closed? I thought government offices had to work. Lets protest! I have been in there before and they had a video playing of what looked like a 20 metre long boa constrictor slithering through a tunnel, do they have those in Taiwan or is this another cobra situation where someone imported one and let it go in the park?
The way up via the Miaopu trail is nearly all in shade. I knew the way down was bright sun, so I was not cursing my decision to apply copious amounts of sunscreen. This is about the only spot for a view until you are about 90% of the way to the top.
Bamboo 3. As is often the case, old folks were deep in the bamboo trying to dig up bamboo shoots for their lunch.
That is the east peak, slightly lower than the peak I was almost at the top of. I have been up that one before, it is only a 5 minute detour, but it looked a bit crowded so I pushed on.
After about 700 metres elevation change and only a bit over an hour of hiking, here is the view of Taipei from Qixing peak, which literally means, 7 star peak. Personally I have seen better, probably 4 stars from me.
The view away from Taipei. I think that is Keelung down there, where I will be staying for 3 nights next week.
I am sweaty, but not as sweaty as a couple of days ago. It was very windy and cooler than my hike on Saturday.
That is a line to have your photo taken with the peak marker. Last time I was here old folks tried to make me eat little tomatoes to help with altitude sickness, at an altitude of 1,100 metres.
I used my zoom. Down there is Tamsui where I was yesterday, I mentioned that smaller mountain across the river. My next stop is those people you can see at the lookout on the bottom right.
And for the final pic, same view from the toilets. Note to people that read this only for toilet info: very high quality toilets.
Even though it is a short hike I have done at least twice before, it is well worth it for the scenery and volcanic sulphur experience. The shortness means maybe tomorrow will also be a hiking day? There are a lot more peaks in Yangmingshan national park I have not climbed.
Korean food in a mall in Banqiao
Time for another geography lesson. Taipei is not just Taipei, but it is Taipei and New Taipei. New Taipei completely surrounds Tapei, in the shape of a donut, making Taipei the donut hole. Excluding the donut hole for a minute, this leaves the New Taipei donut and Banqiao where I went tonight is the largest city and seat of government for the provincial city of New Taipei in the Province of New Taipei. Capiche?
I guess the important part is that it is modern and has footpaths (sidewalks), a rarity in Taiwan where you normally have to walk on the road, or over tiled areas belong to shops with steps between each store front. Refer to my previous Taiwan trips for rants about that, especially when I went to Hualien.
Banqiao also has lots of shopping malls and a big train station with the high speed, normal speed and two subway lines (one above ground) all meeting. I think I had been there once before to change trains when going to or from the airport.
The station area itself where the government offices are is a bit quiet, there is a big mall to the west and not much else, but head east and there are lots of shops and restaurants. I have pics of it all, of course.
Here is the underground mall I take from my hotel to the main station. I was heading out early tonight because the cleaning lady insisted on doing a full room clean at 4pm.
Running off the underground mall I was taking are many others, including this one, that is completely abandoned. Although if you follow it a bit further it turns into a linear underground book shop, I have taken photos previously.
I was bloody starving, because I was out too early before dinner. So I had this EXTREMELY over priced and overrated Cremia ice cream. These are from Japan, where people similarly line up for them in train stations as I did here. They claim to be made from special Hokkaido cream with life giving properties that cannot be described verbally or textually, only tasteually. To me it did not even taste as good as a normal soft serve. And the price! Christ! $7! That is about as much as last nights dinner cost me! Of course you do not get to see the price until you get to the front of the line. So there you go, Cremia, forget it.
Once I got off in Banqiao I decided to explore some back streets. Here is a typical Taiwanese old style back street.
Here is the Banqiao station, my recollection was that all the lines are underground, so such a grand tall building seems unwarranted. However as you shall see shortly, there is an above ground line.
That is a fully enclosed for some reason above ground train line. I have been on it. I assumed while on it that it was underground.
Descending into the basement of the mall, and a huge line appears, what could it be for? Another Cremia? No, Din Tai Fung of course. I went to the Melbourne one the other night. You can get a Cremia soft serve, or an entire meal at Din Tai Fung for roughly the same price.
To offset the cost of Cremia a little, I headed to the Food Republic. Thankfully these places have done away with the pre pay card system that required you to buy a card, charge it, buy your dinner, then refund your card. Now you can pay with credit card. There are at least 50 places to choose from in this one, and plenty of spaces to sit.
I had Japanese food in Taiwan, I had Taiwanese food in Taiwan, why not Korean food in Taiwan? Bibimbap it is. Pretty good. Big serve.
After my hearty meal, I ascended to the top floors to see the slightly fancier options I could of had and probably should of had. Up here there are fountains, a piazza, blue sky ceiling, pools with gondolas, it was like I had woken up in old Venezia. I call Venice Venezia the same way we now say Turkiye and KyEEEeeEevvv instead of Kiev. Capiche?
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2023-05-01 said:
capiched!
adriana on 2023-05-01 said:
any idea what the characters for Yangming mean. I know shan ofcourse
Elephant peak to Jinwu peak from Xiangshan staion
The subtitle above that says Elephant peak and Xiangshan station is kind of redundant, as Xiangshan means elephant peak, but to assist google in finding my story of climbing elephant peak and all the other peaks in what is known as the four beasts area, I have provided both.
Elephant mountain is so named as it was the last place in Taiwan where the Asiatic elephant roamed, up until their eventual extinction for their fantastic quality of shoe leather in 1983. These were the last of the great Pachyderm that used to be prominent across all of what was once known as Formosa. Would I find a lost herd today? Only time and scrolling the photos will tell.
The actual peak is but a few steps from the road, quite close to the station after a walk through a nice path. This is a lower down peak, but it is probably the main view point of all of Taiwan, with an area called 'photographers lookout' and signs advising you where to take the same photo as everyone else has already taken.
If however you continue on, you can turn 15 minutes into 3 hours. It was not my original plan, and I was travelling without any supplies, but once I saw the map showing the path, I could not resist.
The view remains great the whole way, there are many paths to get off at earlier points if you do not want to summit each of the beasts, but alas, I of course carried on until the end.
In the near future the subway is going to be extended to the end point, but for now, you can walk about 30 minutes back to the same Xiangshan station where I started my hike, or alternatively take a bus.
I started my day with a coffee in this park near my hotel. I have sat here before. It is known for it's friendly squirrels, I saw them bothering a girl eating a sandwich but they wisely left me alone.
After getting off at Xiangshan station and walking through a very nice park, I arrived here, and assumed a path up behind that fancy building was the Elephant Peak walk, it was not. I found out by going up it.
On my way up the wrong path, I sweated a lot, and briefly thought about taking a ride in this free to use self operated cable car.
Before too long I got to this point and realised I was on the wrong path. It was a dead end, and there were no other people. Only I can get lost looking for the start of the most popular trail in all of Taiwan.
I carried on, along a nice path that was more like a linear garden through the hills. A lot of old dudes wanted to chat today.
There are numerous detours to take, many go to old person hang out spots with exercise areas, but also the occasional Buddha. Soon I will be old enough to hang out in a makeshift tent with old folks smoking and playing cards.
Still time for a bit more view. The grey clouds were brief, and provided temperature relief for a while. It did not last.
The last part of the descent goes through a number of temples. Perhaps I will include an incense burner every day. Here is the first for today, it won't be the last.
The lower part of the trail went through this nice forest, which was advertised as being a firefly viewing area. The show was cancelled 20 years ago during it's first season.
But don't worry, if you go around the first corner, you get to another temple, this one was much more splendiforous. If you are playing the incense burner game, drink now.
Pasta and a sunset in Ximending
I went to Ximending the night that I arrived, after 36 hours of not sleeping. It is a couple of streets over from my hotel and one of the busiest shopping and eating districts in Taipei. I decided to return to check if that was a fever dream or actually happened.
On my saunter around the area, I observed a bride running between places to be photographed almost getting run over. She had a film crew and 2 camera crews, plus traffic control. And somehow she managed to time the whole shindig to coincide with sunhenge - the day of the year when the sun completely lines up with the road. There were quite a few photographers waiting for it, just as there are in Melbourne. In Melbourne it is the day someone gets run over by a tram.
This place sells cups of plain noodles. Just the noodles (I think?). It has always had a long line, each time I come here, to buy just plain, flavourless rice noodles. Apparently people have been buying flavourless noodles in droves since 1975.
Here's some street photography. Where you just snap photos of random people in the street that are poorly framed without them knowing. This one has the rainbow Taipei street for bonus points.
First sighting of the bride. Yes, they are holding instant cameras pretending to take photos. Yes, the groom does appear to be wearing an Indiana Jones hat.
Inside of the red house, with a sampling of the over priced tourist things on offer. T-shirts were $40! Elsewhere I can buy 40 t-shirts for $40.
I remember this spot from previous visits. Hardware stores that line about a kilometre of under the freeway real estate. They carry on a long way down the street behind me.
I am not quite sure, but I do not think the blood bank buses are actual real buses. They look too narrow. Why did they have to affix that green wire mesh to the bottom of them? I have so many questions, but if I go any closer they will extract my valuable blood.
SUNHENGE. Heavily edited in lightroom, the non sun part of this photo was basically black to stop the sun from clipping, because there's no way in hell I am doing an exposure stack.
Just like in Japan, pasta is a popular meal. Just like in Japan, you can get weird things like Thai green chicken, seaweed, durian. I went with the chilli beef option and cream of corn soup. Pretty good!
Another very popular place that always has a long line. I think they are selling some kind of fried radish cake. But I could be wrong. What I know for sure is that the street around here is coated in many years of very slippery oil.
And here is the second. Good news, tomorrow is NOT a hiking day. At least I am not planning for it to be.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
John on 2023-05-03 said:
I want to check out the hardware strip under the freeway. Looks more interesting than the Bunnings clone in Neihu.
adriana on 2023-05-02 said:
all so colourful. Might have to go there one day.
jenny on 2023-05-02 said:
what a pretty hike today.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2023-04-30 said:
Thanks John
It's primarily my face, and I am stubborn / foolish and won't wear a hat
adriana on 2023-04-30 said:
I wan to know what the inside of a toilet themed cafe looks like
John on 2023-04-30 said:
Check out the UV sleeves and neck protectors at Decathlon Zhongshan if you want to avoid sunscreen.
mother on 2023-04-30 said:
Hanako like the picture of the cat