From Shilin to Beitou to Tamsui
A grey non hiking day. Rain was forecast. And yet so far still no rain.
Despite all that, I managed to get quite sun burnt on my visit to 3 different areas. I hate sunscreen, the boffins working on things we do not need like space travel and clean drinking water should really be working on effective ways to shade the earth from the sun, or alternatively some kind of permanent diamond coating I can have applied for a small fortune, dealers choice.
To achieve getting burnt, I went to 3 different places, I will describe each.
1. Shilin
This is where the largest and most touristy night market is. I was here at 8am where I got off the train to find a coffee, the earliest any cafe opens on a Sunday is 8am. I was successful, coffee was had, but there is a cheese shortage in Taiwan so bagels only come with butter these days. So an important reminder to all, if you are coming to Taiwan, bring your own cheese related products. After my bagel with butter I re-boarded the subway.
2. Beitou
This is where the hot springs live. As you shall see there is a spur line that goes up the hill so all the old folks can get to the communal pools and exchange foot fungus in the perfect combo of slightly acidic warmed to virus breeding temperature water.
It is a very popular spot and full of Onsen style hotels named after parts of Japan. I think Japanese people come here a lot to visit a hot spring town for half the price of doing so in their own country.
3. Tamsui
The name particularly annoys me as it is actually DanShui which means fresh water. Taiwan has mostly changed the names of places to the more westernised Pinyin, but not those that are well known names, including Taipei itself which is actually TaiBei, but I am on a rant now. Whoever made the old translations was deaf, drunk or both.
Anyway, I have been to Tamsui before, it is also a very popular place, with an old street and water front fair ground style attractions. It was not too busy on a Sunday morning. I decided to walk all the way north to the fisherman's wharf where a new tram connects back to the MRT (subway), this is how I got burnt. My top tip - fisherman's wharf is not worth the effort!

Here is the area under Shilin station. I was on the hunt for a cafe that was actually open. It was very grey, and cold! Locals were wearing their puffer jackets. In the breeze it felt like it was not ever 20c.

The subway here is above ground, like the Melbourne sky rail. You can get a great view, that is Yangminshan in the distance covered in cloud, possible destination tomorrow, although it is Labour day tomorrow so maybe not.

I got off at Beitou and walked up the hill rather than going on the little spur line train, this took me past a market, so I took a photo. Scooters ride through every market in Taiwan, it is annoying.

More of the Beitou market, it seems very clean! Actually everything so far has seemed very clean compared to what I remember from previous visits, old in many places, but clean.

However if I did not follow the false hiking trail sign I would not have got to fight with this cat. He won.

This is now the start of the hot springs area. Multi coloured lilies greeted me. I really want to spell liliies with an extra L.

Thermal valley, probably the main spot to breathe sulphur, it is free. The hot springs where you soak your feet are free but I think you need a booking? There seemed to be 2 hour slots to enter and an app involved. Not that I would actually put my feet in the water, but I did want to take some zoom shots of barnacle covered old people feet.

The original train line did go here, there is an old train behind me, and this is the old very Japanese looking station. There is also a newer station further behind me with a train that goes 1 stop back to the main line along the coast as you shall see below...

The one stop train goes very slowly so you can look at the holographic art and take photos with anime characters. I did both.

Now to start walking around Tamsui. That mountain across the other side of the river is smaller than it looks, I climbed over it from the far side years ago, and then took a ferry back across to where I am standing here.

A view of part of Tamsui old street, one street back from the water front with the ice cream shops and children's rides. It goes for a long way, with lots of side alleys that are very crowded. I was too early of course, the food markets were very busy but the non food places were still opening. I am generally, too early, for everything.

Between Tamsui and the fisherman's wharf I followed a bike path along the water and got burnt. Here is the customs house or something like that. There are a few old buildings that are cafes, others are museums etc.

Now for fisherman's wharf. Someone spent a lot of money on an already failed development. Most of the shops have closed down. There is a giant hotel and I think there is a golf course. The bridge is just for pedestrians, but currently it goes nowhere. The only reason to come here currently is to go back again on the tram.

It is actually a working fisherman's wharf, but they seem to take Sunday off. That big red pole sticking up is a mechanical lookout thing that goes up the outside of it, or it used to, it has also closed down.

And for the final pic, a tram. Actually 2 trams. Just like the Melbourne trams. Fisherman's wharf is the end of the line, they take a very strange route back to the above ground subway which takes about an hour and goes at walking speed for extended periods. It is still new enough that locals enjoy taking photos of it, inside and out. Tomorrow I will be applying sunscreen.
Shilin night market
Earlier today I got off a train at Shilin and had a coffee at 8am. Tonight I returned in the evening and went to the night market.
I have no doubt that it is the busiest place in Taiwan, I was there early, before night at a night market, and parts of it were already uncomfortably crushing.
It is here that apparently many strange foods now popular around the world were claimed to be invented, but probably just popularized. Obun's, steak in a bag, chicken schnitzel in a bag, actually you can find in Australia a few places have on their signs 'from the Shilin market in Taiwan' or similar.
The longest line was for blow torched mushrooms, I heard a guy walking up and down the line yelling one hour, plus some other gibberish I could not understand, so I assume he was yelling at people in the line for his store that it was a one hour wait, get out of the line you fools!
Of course, the long lines everywhere, and my general dislike of standing in the street eating stuff off a stick or out of a bag in a crowd meant that I fled back to the safety of a food court, for some great Taiwanese food.

I started at the far end from a station away. There was room to move here, and a lot of Japanese restaurants. However when I went back here an hour or so later they all had big lines already.

Super busy. I cannot believe there are still any squid left in the sea, I better explain that comment, lots of the shops are blow torching whole squid, which then get put on a stick and put in a bag.

There are temples everywhere, some look somewhat official like this, others look like a money laundering front.

Here is the head of the queue of the blow torched mushroom food stand. I kind of wanted to try it, but I was not willing to stand in a line for 50 minutes and then decide I cannot be bothered waiting any longer.

Google told me this Japanese ramen place is TOP RATED, so there is a big line going down the street off to the right.

This temple was up a long dark alley, with various questionable establishments leading to this dead end, where there are no people.

I have read that all these places with lots of claw machines are specifically set up for money laundering purposes. Note that it is in a very busy part of the Shilin market, where you basically cannot move, and yet not a single customer is in there.

There are a lot of toilet themed cafes in Taiwan. I have no idea if this is actually the original one. It is very popular with people that make videos on Youtube.

Another intriguing store front. Do you just go to the screen and transfer your money to someones Russian bank account and it gives you a receipt telling you that you just lost your money? There is a bitcoin ATM in the Emporium mall in Melbourne that I never saw anyone use. If I recall correctly, there are also ones that issue you with a fake gold bitcoin, so you can prove that you own bitcoin after you insert your credit card.

That giant sphere on a building is not a shopping mall, it is seemingly just offices, with the Audi logo.

After I boarded the train I went down 3 levels under the main station to U square, a place I have been on previous trips. The food court is excellent.

I previously enjoyed this vegetarian buffet, however now that everyone has COVID, I am not sure how I feel about eating all you can sneeze on.

So instead, I had the most Taiwanese of all meals, beef noodle soup. Not bad, I have had better, I will have better before the end of this trip.