Running a full lap around sun moon lake
Today I went to the number one tourist attraction in all of Taiwan, its so amazing Japan made Pokemon games about it, the world renowned sun moon lake.
The only problem was, it was raining, and I wanted to run a lap of the lake, a mere 33km, or basically, more than 3/4 of a marathon. This following my huge day yesterday.
Transport to the lake was easy to come by, buses leave every 20 minutes for the grand sum of $2 for a 45 minute trip. We were in cloud most of the way.
Once I got off the bus, it was a brief moment of not pouring with rain, I was excited and set off! Full tilt, 33km to go. It started to rain soon after and basically did not stop.
So I got very wet even with my raincoat on, I saw only one other runner, and he was seriously kitted out in a wetsuit. I also saw zero cyclists.
My $2 raincoat is unfortunately a little too small, with the hood on and jogging, it pulls on the top of my head, so I was running a long like a hunch back.
Despite my hunchback stance, the view was still excellent, and I got to experience, fog, dense fog, rain, heavy rain, mist, mist and fog together, and a brief period of almost not raining.
The path is probably 1/2 actual path for bikes and walkers/runner. I read numerous reports that the path goes all the way around the lake and you can rent a bike and ride the whole way around in a day. This is not entirely true.
First of all, I will humble brag again, I ran the whole damn way around, 33km. Well I ran at least 3/4 of the way anyway. Secondly, half the time you have to run on the road with tour buses. So many tour buses.
So anyone that tells you they rode around the beautiful bike path of sun moon lake and made it the whole way around, ask them if theres a path the whole way, if they say yes, you know they are lying, they rode a few km from the information booth at the main port and turned back.
Despite the rain, and the frustratingly dangerous requirement to run on the road in the fog and rain, I had a fantastic day. Both my days in Puli have been epic adventures, easily the best part of my trip.
I am back to Taipei tomorrow, so getting there will be mostly photos of trains and buses again, a rest day for me, 110,000 steps in 2 days and running 3/4 of a marathon.
The weather for my 4 nights in Taipei is supposed to be fine, so there will be more adventures.
I was interested in the archaic Puli bus station, which shines a blue light on the bus thats arriving. Clever, no need for LED signs here.
A bit more lake, thats not the lake, thats a side bit of lake, an inlet perhaps, if I only had to run around that much lake the day would be over soon.
My first view of part of the entire lake. It wont all fit in frame. Now it looks like a 33km effort is required.
The first 1/3 of the trip was frustrating as it kept looping in and out of inlets, I didnt seem to be making much progress on the map.
There are lots of spots for buses to drop people off to buy stuff. Some places like this one, look like a prison.
It then became really foggy. I heard all kinds of yelling and screaming ahead. I seriously though a boat had sunk. No, just a heap of people playing canoe polo in the fog.
Its not all flat smooth paths and roads. At times you have to climb up quite a long way, or take switch back roads up a cliff.
I remember reading reports by people who hired bikes complaining that the entire journey is up hill, around a lake, finishing where you started.
Good fog pic, with the very blue water able to be seen. The water is such a rich blue color, it would look a lot more blue if there was sun, which there was not. So today was neither sun or moon lake.
I didnt go through the tunnel, theres a path up and around it for cyclists and me. I think the tunnel is a shortcut though, a dry shortcut.
Boats come across to here from where I started. There is a big pagoda up the hill. I could not see it in the fog. I thought it was a bit too foggy for boats to even operate at this point.
There are lots and lots of temples around the lake. But I was soaking wet and enjoying my running, so I did not stop at this one.
Somehow my camera has invented fake sun for this photo. This is the largest town around the far side of the lake, where I replenished my fluid supply.
Just past the town is a ropeway station that goes up a big hill to... wait for it, a temple. Nice blossoms.
I went into the station for food, and ended up with a muffin, the line for real food was too long, I had no time. But it was dry and I was able to dry my soaking wet camera.
I was now confused which way that ropeway goes, its very high above my head! An earthquake right now would make their day exciting.
Nice photo showing blue water, look how far past the town I have gone already. I was flying around the course.
Now confident I was going to make it around, in fact if anything it was easier than I expected, I had time to quickly look at this temple, and dry my camera again.
I didnt see anyone else taking photos, but since I already looked like a wet lunatic with a bright red face and a dripping wet $2 rain coat, I took one anyway.
And now I was almost back, time to remove my hood and take a photo. It was almost not raining at this point!
I look very sweaty, and old. So damn old.
Around the main port area of sun moon lake there are tourist shops and hotels, everything you can think of is there, its a small city really.
I greatly enjoyed running a lap of the lake in the rain.
Exploring the interesting streets of Puli
There I was minding my own business, going for one last lap of Puli at night, watching the step counter on my watch, when some guys across the road desperately leapt onto their bicycles and excitedly crossed through all the traffic without looking to greet me, 'heey, heeeeeey!!! hello!', mormons of course.
I think I wrote about them on my last Japan trip when they turned up in small town Japan too, but I really did not think they would get out to small town Taiwan.
There are a few things I dont understand, they all come from Utah, are there any young men at all left in Utah? Where do they get the money to fund all this world travel from? What are they hoping to achieve in this part of Taiwan?
No time for that, I was getting asked a thousand questions by 4 guys with name tags, I chose to respond to the question of what am I doing in Taiwan? 'Recruiting actors for the Taiwanese production of The book of mormon - the musical, are you guys interested? I am here visiting from Melbourne where its on currently, we think the Taiwanese market will be huge for us'.
They laughed, and waited for me to say I was kidding, but I just held my glare, like only I can do, and they quietly rode off.
Anyway, other than that, I just had dinner and walked around the city one last time until I got to 50,000 steps. I have an addiction now. There are probably worse things to be addicted to. Dont worry, I forecast tomorrow I will not even get to 30,000 steps, so there wont be a boring watch face picture 3 days in a row.
Puli was a lot quieter tonight. My suspicion that it is a weekend tourist destination for people visiting the nearby attractions seems to be true.
This is apparently, the night market. Not a lot happening.
Here is the only food stand at the night market, currently unattended. You select what you want and they put it in a pot and boil it for a while.
A piece of wire with ribbon on the end spins around to keep the flies off.
My dinner was very healthy but a little unusual. It is a few vegetarian ravioli, with lots of green vegetables, in a kind of thai curry flavoured soup. Not bad, good for healthy.
This is quite a nice supermarket on the ground floor in a nice building. A bit hard to see in the darkness, looks kind of French.
And here it is, another 50k today. 110k+ in the last 2 days. Feet in good condition.
According to the good people at Garmin, my normal average of 25,000 steps a day puts me into the top 2% of the population. Which is pretty sad really. I have been averaging closer to 35,000 a day on this trip.
I command everyone get off their fat asses and walk more, now!
From Puli back to Taipei via a Shaoxing brewery
I am back in Taipei, where my journey started. I will be here for another 4 nights.
To celebrate my return to a place I have been to many times, I took almost no photos today. This was partially due to every transport leg lining up perfectly, so there was no time to kill wandering around taking pointless photos.
Before I started my journey to Taipei, I took one last wander around Puli, the weather today made all the mountains look very very enticing. So enticing that I somehow ended up at a rice wine brewery tourist centre and memorial combination which opens at 8:30am to allow the buses to park.
They have a museum / gift shop, and as you shall see, an exploded still (think dukes of hazard moonshine) which apparently killed off most of the workers many years ago.
There are multiple ways to get to Taipei from Puli, actually in Taiwan, everything leads back to Taipei eventually, kind of like London in England. I could have taken the direct bus, or the bus / high speed train combo. I decided to take whichever one was coming first, which is not easy to figure out as its 2 different companies selling tickets.
I had to enquire at the window what time the bus leaves for Taipei. And they told me (about 20 mintues time), and I thanked them, and walked off, they then chased after me trying to sell me a ticket. A taxi driver joined in as well asking me where I wanted to go.
This made my selection easier, I will go with the local bus / high speed train option as they are not chasing me around the bus station.
A well placed elementary school overpass gave me an opportunity to take a photo of the town and the mountains. Parents crossing with their children were concerned that I was hanging out taking photos, so I had to move on.
Here is the exploded liquor still at the Shaoxing brewery. Shaoxing is a city in mainland China, so I dont know what rights Puli has to call their brewery that. Trademark infringement like Champagne in France.
On the museum gift shop tour, you can walk through a cave of liquor vats. There is not a lot of room and they seem to just be resting on planks!
This is the winch in my hotel room. Its to lift fat people on and off the bed / toilet.
Actually I think its for me to abseil out the window. There is no rope or harness. I guess they throw one up to you if you are about to burn to death?
My room is much bigger than it appears from here. The bathroom has a regular, non glass door (important info for my mother).
It is called the Energy Inn. They were very insistent at check in that I select my breakfast for tomorrow morning, and a specific time to eat it. I guess I better turn up.
The internet speed is maxing out the network card on my laptop, 100mbit up and down.
I am smack bang in the middle of the fashionable XiMenDing district, centre of youth culture in Taipei. I am the oldest person here.
As it was still early, I headed out and enjoyed a delicious iced tea, followed by a visit to the bakery next door to my hotel for some tiny finger sandwiches and a selection of cakes.
Eating CNN approved beef noodle soup
Praise the inventor of the city wide subway system, it makes getting to places much easier and faster.
Because of the excellent and super cheap subway system in Taipei, I headed to the edge of the city in search of the best beef noodles. But I couldnt find the place, maybe its gone.
Not to worry, I googled again and found somewhere else claiming to be the best beef noodles. To get there I decided to walk back through parts of the city I had not been through before.
Eventually, I got to a mall I had been to before, many years ago, the mall with the giant sphere inside it that has... wait for it.... 7 basement levels.
This place has seen better times, I remember even last time I was here the upper levels were largely empty, now they are all wedding halls, which is a polite way of saying, boarded up.
Anyway, I walked on and on until I ended up in the high rise ultra clean and modern part of the city called XinYi (new one?), and ate at the best beef noodle shop in Taipei as voted by CNN in 2015. Yes, CNN, apparently they handed out a beef noodle soup award. Or maybe thats fake news.
It was then time to jump back on the subway and head back to my hotel, which is smack bang in the middle of the busiest part of the city, busy even for a Monday.
On this subway journey, there was a small baby, holding a plastic bag with a live fish swimming around in it. However to my untrained eyes it did not look like a gold fish, or any other kind of fish you might want as a pet, it looked like dinner. The baby looked hungry, the fish looked worried. That baby held onto the plastic bag with the fish in it for the entire journey.
I went inside anyway, to admire the sphere, which is impressive. They have a food court, but it looked a bit crappy, plus I wanted the best beef noodle, so I pushed on.
This is a really busy intersection, the Taipei mini version of the Shibuya crossing. Except it takes much longer to get across. I think I stood here for 20 minutes.
And it was here I found my beef noodle soup, CNN approved. It was pretty good, but I wouldnt say it was the best, they did not provide the proper chilli sauce for a start.
However the addition of an egg was appreciated. Beef was also really nice. The thing sticking up at the back is a deep fried crunchy doughnut.
This place has a nice roof garden, by garden I mean plastic creatures to take selfies with. I stubbed my toe on the stairs, and took my shoes off to do an inspection.
At this moment the security guard came outside and shone a torch on me, just as I was trying to shine my phone torch light thing on my big toe. I dont know what he thought was going on.
Back in Ximending now, and trucks drive by advertising popstars and movies, just like Japan, except these screens are 3d, like at the Chimei museum.
Giant 3d screens for which you dont need to wear glasses to experience the 3d effect. I dont know how they work.
These guys had very dramatic music and the prime spot. I stopped to watch for at least 5 minutes. They did synchronized stretching to music, and then their performance ended.
I wonder if it will be noisy in my hotel room from all the people? Time will tell.
As promised, no photo of my watch.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
B on 2017-03-27 said:
Please post photos of wall kittens
mother on 2017-03-27 said:
This looks like it has many shopping opportunities. You may have a bumpy flight home - category 4 cyclone going to hit Queensland at 12pm today.
David on 2017-03-27 said:
Look closer to the right edge of the picture, its a close up of a guys gas mask
Jenny on 2017-03-27 said:
Lovely day in Puli - perfect for mountain climbing. Can't see anyone in a gas mask!!
Hiking the teapot mountain in Jiufen
There were 3 things I was sure I wanted to do whilst in Taiwan on this trip. Go to Taroko gorge, go to sun moon lake, and climb the teapot mountain near Jiufen (9 minutes? the characters suggest the place is called 9 minutes).
Today I completed 3 of 3, so thats a good outcome.
Like the other 2 of the 3, teapot mountain is quite well known, and Jiufen is very well known to all visitors to Taiwan, indeed I had been to Jiufen previously and climbed a different mountain, which will be seen in my large number of photographs below.
Teapot mountain was very exciting, there are cave sections to haul yourself up through using ropes, with openings so small I had to take my pack off to fit. Fat people cant do it. Claustrophobic people would hate it.
The scary part of the day was not that though, the scary part was that it was so very windy. Windy enough that I had to hang onto ropes to make sure I didnt get blown off the mountain. There were a few other people, and they all told me it was too windy as I passed them or as they were coming down the other way.
The wind certainly made it challenging, there were sections on ridges where I had to stay down on all fours and almost crawl along whilst hanging onto the rope.
You can see how cool my hair thought all of this was below.
Another good thing about teapot mountain is that there is another mountain behind it, with lots more ropes and abseiling and high winds, and then there is a road to walk back down to Jiufen. So its a hard struggle to get up, and then an easy long walk back down to a tourist city with good transport.
Since I took so many photos, I better get to adding my unfunny comments to them, but as it was so windy they were not always taken from the best vantage points, I could only take photos where I thought it was safe enough to get my pack off and take my camera out.
Oh and also, im a bit sore from todays efforts, so dont expect a huge update this evening.
Oh and also also, Jiufen is a great place for anyone to visit, even if you dont want to climb anything. Well, just walking around the place is a bit of a climb as its on the edge of a cliff, but there is lots to see and do there and its very easy to get to. I am starting to sound like the Taiwan tourism association.
WESTERN BREAKFAST! My hotel insisted when I checked in that I selected my breakfast and my breakfast time to the nearest 10 minute slot. I did not select a hot dog sausage and chips, I selected egg and bacon, but it was labelled western breakfast.
I did not want egg and bacon breakfast either, but the other option was salted fish congee, and not making a selection seemes to cause great offence.
After finishing my fries, they were very insistent I select my breakfast and time for tomorrow, I will not be having western breakfast tomorrow. I will get whatever the Chinese breakfast is. Hopefully not ground up rice with added salted fish guts and soy milk.
Boring photo from inside the bus to Jiufen, or is it? Note the woman up the front has put her umbrella up, inside the bus. Another new way to terrify me with umbrellas.
At one point the driver slammed on the brakes, hard enough for a guy sitting at the back in the middle to fly down the aisle, and for everyones phones and bubble teas to go flying. No one was hurt, and my phone remained in my hand.
Thats the mountain I climbed last time I was here, which is a never ending stair case with little rest pavillions all the way up. It was excellent fun if I recall. My mountain today is a lot more challenging. A shame that the pollution haze is impacting the view.
The entrance to teapot mountain is inside the gold mine museum park. This entire area used to be gold mines. There are lots of tunnels and old railways. Not for me today, I have climbing to do.
It is starting to get rocky and windy. I had to put my gloves on at this point and start using the ropes.
The rocky peak ahead, with the red warning sign. Look closely and you can see other people, they warned me it was very windy.
I am already looking wind swept, little did I know the wind up until now had been but a gentle calming breeze in comparison to what was to come.
It would have been impossible to get down without the rope. Eventually these ropes must wear out and break. Thankfully not today.
Actually this was still a calm before the storm as far as wind goes, it was very windy here, yes, but not windy enough to be picking rocks up off the ground and blowing them off the cliff.
Time to do some more climbing, I appreciated that there was no wind whilst climbing up this crevice.
Finally back at the road, still windy at times, but less of an issue when you are not standing on a cliff hanging onto a rope.
Thats the path I took at the back of this photo. The rocky bit sticking up on the left was the cave hole, then over all those rocks hanging from ropes, and then back down the ridge line disappearing off the right edge of the screen.
And then I descended down a random stair case in the city built on the side of a cliff, and I was inside Jiufen old street. You can tell, because theres a huge penis sign.
'A piece of Gayke'??? Gay cake I guess. LGBTBBQXYZI is very trending news in Taiwan.
Old street is very popular with tourists, I must have looked a bit weird with hair going every which way, and sun screen running down my shirt.
The street seems longer than I remember, it snakes around on the edge of a cliff, I think there are tunnels but its hard to tell, a fascinating place.
One last photo of the view, this time with temples and an island. On a clear day it would be awesome.
As a reward for my climbing efforts today, a series of tiny white sandwiches. Delicious. These ones are better than yesterdays as there is no mystery salted possibly horse meat included, and no mayonaise.
Mayonaise on a sandwich is worse than salted horse.
The Ippudo in Taipei station is as good as any other Ippudo
Last night was an attempt at best beef noodle in Taipei, I dont think the claim was true. Tonight however, turned out to be the best ramen ever!
It came from Ippudo, who have stores in many cities including Sydney. The Taiwan menu is much more extensive and it was fantastic, more on that later.
Before I could leave this evening, I had to go in the shower, to rehydrate my wind dried hair and wash layers of streaking sun screen off. The only problem was, the hotel was fixing the hot water. The sign said it would be available at 4pm, so in the shower I go at 5pm, still cold.
I thought I would give it a bit more time before giving up, now I was naked and standing in the shower shivering. So thinking I was at home where no one can see in our window, I went and stood naked at my hotel window, 3rd floor, watching people walking past, waving at me. I havent been arrested yet.
Despite suggesting I wouldnt do much this evening, I ended up doing lots. The area around my hotel is the busiest part of the city, so every time I step outside something is happening, and this evening was no exception. A mercedes was trying to fit up the small laneway, and it couldnt, so someone was tasked with moving approximately 9000 parked scooters so the car could get by.
I watched and wondered why he didnt just back up, there was nothing behind him, I thought he must be going to park somewhere in the laneway, but not, 10 minutes later he got to the end of the lane and turned onto the main road.
Behind the Taipei main station is a busy dense area of streets with mainly Japanese restaurants, lots of good places to eat here.
In addition to the good places, they also have both Yoshinoya and Sukiya.
There is also the Taiwan locomotive railway lunch box. This is not uncommon in Taiwan, there are a few similar brands. Someome liked the train lunch boxes so much they started a restaurant based on the concept.
I recall in Kaohsiung there is a similar one called the Kaohsiung airline catering company, in case you really like plane food.
Under these streets behind the station is a labyrinth of funky little restaurants, I had no idea any of this was here.
My ramen from Ippudo was amazing. I asked for whatever was spiciest, and it was indeed spicy. The red stuff is really spicy red miso I guess, or just plain chilli, and the noodles were awesome.
I also got an entire pickled cucumber thing cause ramen has no real vegetables on its own.
Highly recommended! Its above the main train station for future reference.
To get back to my hotel I walked along the underground subway malls, which had an exhibition of a lego competitor featuring manga girls.
This one was the best in my opinion, the books and bookshelves are also made from the lego knock off.
Eventually along this mall thing you get to a new station, built for the recently opened airport MRT, when they excavated to build it they uncovered ancient ruins. So now you can stand on them and take photos.
All these people are eating Ay-Chung flour rice noodles from 1975, out of paper cups. I had a closer look, they only serve the one thing, 2 sizes, and its just plain noodles in plain looking liquid, nothing else.
Nearby is the creative artists park in an old building, I think I went here once on a previous trip. A good place to buy gifts from.
There are currently 6 comments - click to add
adriana on 2017-03-29 said:
Love the mass scooter photo.
MoShengRen on 2017-03-28 said:
Looked up Jiufen, the characters are 九份 which means nine parts instead of 九分 nine minutes.
chock on 2017-03-28 said:
looks much more appealing with the sun shining, after all the misty rainy pics of the previous days! best windy hill climb ever(est) +1 for penis sign
bobule on 2017-03-28 said:
amazing mountain climb!!!
David on 2017-03-28 said:
Pollution is about the same, I read that its worse in the south, in Kaohsiung where the bigger industrial parks are.
I think I read somewhere that Taipei and Tokyo pollution levels are the same.
Japan is bigger so there are areas of Japan that I suspect are always pretty clear.
Mother on 2017-03-28 said:
A superb climbing effort today. I wonder if the urge developed from childhood trip/s up Mt Egmont and Paritutu? Today's photos are very sharp despite the pollution. Would you say the pollution is worse than in Japan?
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2017-03-26 said:
I am back in Melbourne on Saturday morning.
Adriana on 2017-03-26 said:
Too walk all day you need something interesting to look at. Overseas trips will do that, not staying in your own boring home town. How many days left for adding to your step record?
Mother on 2017-03-26 said:
Running leads to wrinkles - take the ropeway. Nice fog and rain photos. Hope you have a big dinner - will fill out some of the wrinkles too.