Walking along the beach from Hualien to Chishingtan
Today I walked along the beach to the next town over, Qixingtan, formerly Chishingtan. Cheetsingtchan is famous for its view of the beach with the mountains in the background, number 7 on top 13 Taiwan scenic spots!
Actually thats a Korean thing, where every thing is Number x of y of national z, e.g. NUMBER 3 of 14 national historical bus stop monuments!
The path to get to Shequingtian is heavily used by cyclists, the path quality was generally excellent apart from where the road was washed into the sea, but the scenery at times was not as I expected.
Whilst you basically stick to the coast, the approximately 14km journey takes you through a cement factory and a rubbish dump. Which I found exciting.
Then it ends at the very start of the air force base runway. I saw F16's powering up from the road yesterday when returning from Taroko on the bus, no such luck today.
The rain mostly held off, there was a brief shower at my destination, during which time me and everyone else hung out in the public toilets whilst a man in a diesel powered wheelchair played an electronic drumset under a tarp at ridiculously loud volumes. A great time was had by all.
Also due to overwhelming pressure from owners of fancy high pixel density screens, I have increased the size of the images and turned up the export quality. This means it will take longer to load the page, and you will have to scroll further to get past my crap photos. Enjoy!
Part one of my beach walk featured concrete tsunami (or possibly Peoples Liberation Army) defences. Hey, I havent been overusing brackets lately.
There are actually lots of nice parts of this walk, but I found them less interesting to photograph.
There are skateboard ramps, beach volleyball courts, the usual beach fare.
Hualien is actually very tropical, palm trees everywhere.
The path was of a high quality the whole way, no trucks or scooters blocking the way or trying to run me down.
Then you go through the port area, a very large port indeed. I climbed up the control tower and explained to the local operators how to efficiently run a port.
High on their list of efficiencies, ensure there are no ships in port.
Along the wharves are a number of cafes and art galleries. This seems to be the case with port areas globally.
The coastguard ships here are numerous, they have guns on them too. There were signs saying not to take photos of military vessels, I took photos anyway. Coastguard is the pretend military.
Then I was back at the ocean, still grey. The water is actually very turquoise and tropical looking, on a sunny day. Sand is black, and its mostly rocky. I think its being mined nearer the city centre to turn into cement.
Next up was the highlight for me, the rubbish dump! It is listed as an environmental park, and also recycling centre. I think they were right, because there was no smell at all, and not very many birds. So probably only clean recyclables, piled up waiting to be burnt because there is no market to sell them. Thats my expert opinion anyway.
Please review the news on Australian recycling centres full of unsellable recovered recyclables burning down in the last month.
Some people were determined to enjoy the beach. Generally it involves standing near the edge of the water then screaming and running away.
The town square, called star view gallery (not today!) has many food carts, and competing drumming buskers.
This drumming busker was the best, but he was completely drowned out by a guy in a heavily modified wheelchair including diesel generator with an electronic kit and a P.A. system. I did not photograph him because I had to dodge the rain and then he rolled off with his kit going with him.
A bit further along the coast is the Hualien airport which is also an air force base. These are the landing lights, they extend into the sea. No planes came.
It was here yesterday where from the bus I saw F16's turn to take off right on the edge of the road. A few were doing circuits over my head earlier in the day, but none were flying whilst I was here to watch.
I had walked all the way around the top of that cliff. A cliff with rubbish on top of it at the dump.
This is the famous view. If you google image search Hualien you will see lots of shots of this view at dusk.
Thats where they keep the air force jets. There were plenty of guys on observation towers with rifles, but no jets.
To celebrate my long journey to not see any jets taking off, I had a small piece of cake and a great coffee from 85C. Really good coffee actually, but the only food they have of any kind is cake.
From now on, having cake for breakfast.
The Hualien Far Eastern department store
Imagine my lack of surprise when this evening I stepped out of my hotel room to find it was raining. It is not really a problem at night, and it didnt rain much during the day.
Imagine my further surprise when as I set off down the street a small girl came charging out of the hotel in heels furiously waving a free hotel umbrella at me. I was petrified. Was she going to kill me with it? The metal spike on it looked sharp.
After I regained my composure I was able to explain to her, whilst standing in the rain, that I prefer to get wet than carry an umbrella, she locked shocked and stood dumbfounded as I strode off.
Due to the rain, I had googled where to go to get out of the rain that wasnt just sitting in a cafe. There are no shopping malls in Hualien at all, but there is to my surprise a department store, the local branch of 'Far Eastern', complete with a multi level walmart clone in the basements, a starbucks and a mcdonalds. Hours of fun then.
So I headed there, and wandered around a lot looking at things, but then chose not to eat there. I was actually feeling a bit faint from my all cake and coffee diet, so I headed into the first proper Taiwanese looking family restaurant I could find. More on that below.
Once I had finished eating, I headed back into the basement walmart clone for a while, much like these stores in the rest of the world, they largely exist for poor people to hang out in at night and watch the wall of televisions or use the internet on the tablets and phones before they buy a crate of toilet paper and go home. But at least they bought something, cause I did exactly the same then bought nothing at all!
Here it is, in all its glory, the Hualien branch of the Far Eastern department store. It is deceivingly large, a big L shape behind it, and features H&M, Uniqlo, Muji and others, but no food court.
My dinner from somewhere with no picture menu, no English, and no English speaking of any kind. No problem, I got through on broken Chinese. I dont recall encountering such a total lack of English before, after ordering I said thank you, in English, and this caused another round of confusion as I explained that it is the English way of saying xie xie, which resulted in laughter from the two ladies helping me.
I kind of wish more places were like this, everywhere else I go they insist on speaking English.
My dinner was however delicious, and I stopped feeling faint by the time I got up to leave.
You can buy girl incubators here. Stick a girl in a heated tent until she comes out done.
I genuinely dont know what these things are, they have them in stock and one assembled on the shop floor, so its not just a joke.
Not many pictures due to the rain, but I really do enjoy Family Mart burnt caramel popcorn. It is much more burnt than the kind you would get in Australia. I am a fan of burnt flavour.
Hiking up Zuocang in Hualien
For the last 3 days I have been looking at the mountain towering over the city of Hualien. So today despite it being covered in cloud, I decided to walk to it, climb up it, then walk back to my hotel. Quite the walk.
It is 8km to the start of the trail from my hotel, and 8km back, just a light stroll really. Of course in addition to that you need to actually climb the mountain. Also there was blue sky and sun, it was hot, I had to wear sunscreen, I hate sunscreen, I was sweating as soon as I applied it.
Anyway, they trail up the mountain is well maintained and was quite popular on this Sunday morning. It used to be called the Sakura trail when Japan kept the entire population of Taiwan as prisoners, but it has since been renamed Zuocang trail, or one of 8 variations of Zuocang.
I was very surprised to find 3 large baseball stadiums and many more baseball fields on the edge of town, before heading through an aboriginal theme village and then past very western looking bed and breakfast places.
The trail itself used to be for small mining 4 wheel bike things towing trailers full of rocks.
As usual, there was a great view of the 2 air force bases, I now know theres 2, and whilst my view was obscured, many jets took off, and yet when I could clearly see the runways, no jets came. I think they know when I am watching.
Blue sky. I dont think it has rained in town all day, just on the mountain. I had to go under the train tracks to get to my mountain, taking me to the wrong side of the tracks.
There was a local bird flu market, lacking in birds as they have all been killed off to reduce bird flu to epidemic levels rather than pandemic.
So blue. A highway overpass is always a welcome adventure for me to take a photo of one of the 2 starbucks outlets in Hualien. This one is located in a very strange place, far from any real action.
I climbed into one of the 3 baseball stadiums, the main one has a roof. This one is under reconstruction as you can probably see, although with my blurry photos its possible no one can see anything at all.
Then I found myself at stonehenge. Along here as far as the eye can see is baseball grounds / pitches / mounds / parks. I dont know what you call a place where you play an organised game of baseball.
At the start of the trail is what I presume was parking for the mining equipment. Long since abandoned.
I thought the birds in the trees sounded quite large. Turns out there were monkeys, lots and lots of monkeys.
A bit more view from a higher viewing place. I dont know why I didnt take a better photo of the 2 runways. They are joined together by a very long taxiway that cuts through the middle of the city.
If you open the full size photo here you can see the start of the closer runway in between the wooden slats, and the long taxiway to the other runway from the left side of the photo.
Thats a long explanation about the layout of an airport.
There are some cherry blossom trees at the top to remind everyone about the former Japanese name of the trail.
I am very happy with my new boots. Feet have remained dry at all times. Good boots are the most important thing.
I did read a translated web page about people who tried to cut a path over the back of this mountain getting badly attacked by leeches, and the sharp leaves of a plant giving them leg infections. Probably a good idea to stick to the path.
I was starving by now, 30k steps without a break, so I stopped for a bread and butter caramel muffin bake thing. Yes more cake. I always put on weight on holidays despite walking 30km a day minimum, much of it up mountains!
There are a lot of people upset that the Taiwan tourism board slogan this year is Taiwan - touch your heart. With good reason I guess, it kind of means Taiwan - very sad.
However this is nothing compared to my old home state of South Australia, where after a year of committee deliberations, they came up with, SA - Going all the way!
I had to stop and buy some more tape for my toes, preventative paper tape I appply daily. So I went into a mega chemist, this one is multi level and has a huge section dedicated to junk food.
Presumably this helps them make people need more medicines.
Eating pasta in Hualien
Tomorrow I am moving further down the coast, this time to Taitung, which is what maps say, but is actually Taidong, because somehow tung and dong sound the same depending on which English speaker is making up a way of saying Chinese words? They arent even close.
This afternoon, I did my washing, fun times. I asked the girls at the hotel desk where the clothes washing machine is, cause I know how to say all those words, but I have a feeling this is not how you say washing machine in Chinese because they got the giggles. They knew what I meant, the good news is the washing machines and dryers are free! Cause Taiwan is awesome.
So I head up to the 6th floor which is actually level 4 in Australia cause there is no ground floor and no 4th floor in any Chinese building, they start at 1 and skip 4, and I find the machines. I always like to wash in cold water so I was busy trying to work that out when the girls from reception arrive on the scene to help me. The word for help is bang in case you are interested, RANG WOMEN BANG NI, let us help you. WOMEN is not women, it is wo men, 2 characters, that mean us.
I was able to explain I wanted cold water, and I think they then told me that in Taiwan wash clothe machine only ever has cold water. So we were good to go. They giggled some more and left.
This evening I headed to the station, it was bone dry, no rain, and bought my ticket for tomorrow to Tai(random). Google is useless at train schedules in Taiwan. I knew what train I wanted, time, number of train etc. But despite checking for times on google using schedule explorer for Monday lunch time, google gave me a train that only runs on Saturdays.
No problem, the girl at the window told me I had made a mistake, we are talking only Chinese again, So now I had no face...no face... She told me the train time nearest to the one I selected, I agreed and handed over $7 for my 3 hour train ride tomorrow.
Thats probably enough text humble bragging about how I can speak enough Chinese to get laughed at or order a train ticket.
Oh yeah, I can also brag about something else, 50,000 steps today! My watch tells me thats 37km.
Every corner of Taiwan seems to have about a thousand bakeries per square mile. They all seem great. I want that thing to the right of the black thing with the caramel icing. Too bad its dinner time and not time for another cake breakfast.
The local vegetable market. No, its a trick. Tiny miniature vegetables. I thought these were amazing.
The local fish market. Its still a trick! I enjoyed minature scenery so much I took 2 photos. Also its colorful.
Both of the above photos are of scenes no more than 30cm across.
I went and hung out on my own in the Industrial and Cultural Society Liberty Square. Now feeling liberated and industrious, and even more cultural than ever. Also I am a square.
The main train station is actually a long way from the city proper. There is a satellite city of sorts there for tourists who only want to spend the night before going to the gorge early in the morning.
Not many good food options to be found, lots of shops selling pineapple cakes and jade bracelets.
Near the station you can even find Pachinko parlours, presumably to cater to the Japanese. I have not seen any of these in Taipei ever.
And if you are brave enough to stick your head into a Korean karaoke bar in Australia you will see these. Electronic dart boards. I presume these are here to cater for the Korean tourists.
I selected Tiger Pasta for dinner. A funky placy for young people with shipping crates for tables. Young people and also me. Not young anymore. Now I am sad.
The place was called Tiger Pasta and one of the dishes on their menu was Tiger Pasta, so thats what I had. And it was good. But it was $10, which is expensive for Taiwan. The price you pay for an actual table to sit at and shipping crate decor.
It did have big chunks of great quality beef, egg, real parmesan, and you cant see it but cherry tomatoes and brocolli. I enjoyed it a lot. I presume the black pasta is squid ink, they love squid here.
Final picture for the evening, another random street with many scooters. So dry. I might have to moisturize due to the total dryness.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
Brian on 2017-03-13 said:
Photos look great david
David on 2017-03-12 said:
My only mistake was to ask about clothes washing machine, and not washing clothes machine
Adriana on 2017-03-12 said:
yay dry weather. They like the neon in Taiwan too. Do you get lots of fumes from all the scooters? I take it that when you come back you will be practicing how to ask about washing machines. i think I need to do this too in Japanese.
bobule on 2017-03-12 said:
food looks great!
jenny on 2017-03-12 said:
Ok seen the runway, now want to see the planes yes and more shops.
Travelling by train from Hualien to Taitung
Now I am in Taitung or Taidong or Tai(random) and thats the last time I do that.
The train station is far from the city, so very very far, 90 minutes walk dragging suitcase far.
However now that I am here, it seems to be a tourist paradise, and my hotel is very very fancy.
Before all that, I had to leave Hualien. I was very happy with the hotel there also, but it would seem no one else was. Everyone else left last night after visiting the Gorge, which means they are not putting on the breakfast I dont even want.
This caused some drama for the hotel staff, who for a very long time explained to me there was no breakfast as I was the only guest in the hotel, and instead they had purchased me a mcdonalds voucher. Really thats what they had gone and done. I was having a hard time understanding what was going on! I politely declined their voucher, having not eaten their free breakfast the 3 previous mornings anyway. Throughout this entire block of time I kept saying, in two languages, that this was fine, no problem, thats ok, please dont worry.
Now for the train. It takes 3 hours. Its advertised as taking about 2. It left on time so I thought this was a good sign, but it actually starts its journey in Hualien. As soon as we left town, it became a single track railway. So we always seemed to stop at stations to let another train pass. Stations that have not had customers since WW2.
It was also an old diesel train, but very spacious. There are apparently newer faster electric trains running all the way to Taitung, but not on Monday at the time of my choosing.
Now back to the start of this block of text, Now I am in Taitung.
I knew it was far from the station to the city, and I knew that the bus service was limited and almost random, internet says taxi if your hotel hasnt arranged transport.
No taxi for me, walk I shall! 90 minutes later, I am at my hotel. Not sure if walking was the best plan, but it was free! The hotel is right near the central bus station so I might go study the bus patterns to eliminate the walk back.
Plus I like to buy a train ticket in advance, so thats a round trip to the remote station required the day before departure. So many activities!
The fighter jets were particularly active in Hualien this morning. My ability to photograph them was not great, here is the best I could do. A fantastic blurry sillouhuhouhethehtte.
You can watch them land with the mountian as a backdrop which was quite cool, but did not translate to a decent photo.
I think I hear them around Taitung as well. Taunting me. Taunted in Tauitung Two - The Tauntening.
I had time for a morning wander around Hualien one last time to enjoy the mountains. And with a break in the cloud I discovered that there are bigger mountains behind the mountains. Back there some distance are peaks higher than Fuji in Japan.
Then I did a bird flu inspection. Marginal pass. Apparently they no longer butcher animals in the local markets in Taiwan. Instead they hide that from view of tourists with cameras like we do in Australia.
The inside of the inadequate Hualien station. It is being majorly upgraded. As is Taitung station for that matter. So many upgrades. At least the airport subway is done!
As previuosly mentioned, I find taking photos from a moving train mostly futile, but the scenery of the East rift valley was awesome. This is the best photo of about 30 tries.
It really was a long way with a big suitcase and my backpack, walking down the roads. Notice its quite smokey, I found out why below.
Everyone, every single store or business, is burning bits of paper in the streets, and has a small table with food on it, mainly fruit but also chocolate, boxes of cereal, squid flavoured pringles. An offering of some kind, I helped myself to some pringles.
I asked in the hotel what it was for, they had their own fire going, and they couldnt explain it to me. I have googled, nothing. I am clueless. I fear there was some kind of incident or massacre I am not aware of that it being commemerated.
However I am covered in ash because of it.
My hotel is really really nice. The reception is nice, it has a 5 star looking restaurant, the room seems fantastic. Thats almost a kitchen area except its a bathroom and toilet, separate areas with glass doors.
And a picture window from the bathroom/kitchen to the bed which is enormous and luxurious. I also have a great view. All for about $60 a night.
Railway art park in Taitung
Taitung not only has footpaths, you can walk on them. People seem to observe the general rule that a footpath exists for people to walk along, and look in your stores, its somewhat of a miracle.
First impressions of the place suggest to me that it is a more modern, cleaner city than the better known Hualien. I am somewhat surprised, I read earlier today on Lonely Planet that 'Taitung has nothing of interest for the passing tourist to be concerned with'.
I guess that could turn out to be true, no ones coming to a place just to check out its amazing availability of footpaths.
Actually I have no idea what I plan to do here, I have to do some research and find out.
I can confirm that fighter jet are constantly buzzing the buildings in town, at night, they are lower here and closer to the city than in Hualien, it seems almost dangerous.
And as a true meaure of modernity (is that a word?) the place has a small mall of sorts as part of a 10 screen modern cinema complex, and a giant Sheraton hotel.
Some interesting looking youths in black clothes with hair like peacocks went down these stairs and into the apple bar, which was busy playing Linkin Park or Creed or similar at window rattling volume.
Carrefour is here. They have them in Taipei also. Excellent multi level underground supermarket. Actually I first saw these in mainland China, before seeing them in France where they come from.
The aforementioned Sheraton hotel. It did not come up in my results when I searched hotels which tells me its out of my price range, which is very low. I am notoriously cheap. Well, lots of people stay in hostels, but im not a 19 year old girl, despite the rumors.
This is some kind of railway art park. The train used to come to here. Now it stops many miles away and you have to walk. Why does it not come here anymore? Stupidity.
They have left some old trains out in the park. This is highly unusual. The doors are open on the carriages you can go right in, yet they are pristine, no graffiti inside or out.
Nearby was an excellent looking multi level bakery. I wanted to go in but had not yet had my dinner had I had it or had then had. Maybe they will be open before 10AM for breakfast? Unlikely, before 10 the only things open are Mcdonalds and Starbucks, and they only open at 8. Taiwanese people sleep in.
This is the outside of my hotel, but it wasnt time to go to bed yet. It looks a lot like a Daiwa Roynet in Japan.
Toms world is all over mainland China, and Taiwan. Dont let the media convince you they hate each other. One China is more real than not real. Theres talk of building a tunnel again... a mere 300km.
Dinner tonight is kind of Japanese, kind of Korean, it is ginger pork with every kind of side dish. The most confusing thing is the cup with corn on top on the right.
I thought this was a soup or a drink, but after the bit of oil on top, its a custard. They provided a small spoon, so I thought it was dessert of some kind. But no, it is a savoury custard, with chunks of squid in it, at least I think it was squid.
And finally, for my mother, a Mister Donut. Not tonight, I would rather go to the other place, and dinner was too large for donut dessert. I dont even like donuts.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
Mother on 2017-03-13 said:
Well some groups of 2 people also don't want to see each other in the bathroom . You'll have to check out the Donutes and see if they are better than the donuts.
David on 2017-03-13 said:
Shihtiping is really hard to get to unless you have a car. Its also the stupidest spelling ever.
Those islands are hard to get to also, people generally fly.
As for the windows, I found the same in Japan, and the reason is simple, it stops groups of 20 people from sharing a room meant for 2.
jenny on 2017-03-13 said:
A plane at last.!
mother on 2017-03-13 said:
You didn't stop at Shihtiping!! i have been researching Taitung - will you be going to Green and Orchid islands to see penal colony and nuclear waste dump? Do all Taiwanese hotels have windows into bathrooms and why?
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
Adriana on 2017-03-11 said:
Happy to see some shop photos. Do you think the incubator might be a slimming sauna? I'll give it a miss. Are you expecting any days without rain?
mummy on 2017-03-11 said:
Nice photo again. Definitely not a good path for walking at night. Pity no planes. Still having internet connection probs in this stupid motel. HOpe Bendigo is better tomorrow.