Taking the bus to Gyeryongsan national park to go hiking in the fog
Today I spent many hours hiking in fog. The actual place was called Gyeryongsan national park, which is located a short bus ride to the west of downtown Daejeon. For most of the day it would not matter where I was, the only view was fog.
Because of the popularity of hiking in Korea, I thought it best to go before the weekend, I had read stories about people hijacking buses on weekends because they had to wait in line for so many hours to get on the bus that there was now no point in going. I did not want to be that person, or did I???
My bus ride went very smoothly, long term readers may recall that me and buses do not get along, the worst memory I have is when in Japan they just decided to not run a bus service at all one day because they did not think anyone would be needing it. The one regular rider had died of old age. I found that out after a 20km walk and questioning the guys at the bus depot. Anyway, here in Korea the bus runs every 20 minutes, is over flowing with people, and the bus stops have cool TV screens keeping you appraised of where the bus is in real time.
Once at the national park, I sneakily had done my homework, and knew which way to go to avoid the $4 entry fee. Actually I selected a long looping path rather than the main path, which means you come out through the entrance and despite offering to pay when I exited, that seemed to cause all kinds of trouble and they wanted me to talk to someone on the phone who understood English. I think they thought I was demanding a refund?
One other thing, Korean maps are hopeless. North is never up. The map is also rarely oriented in the direction you are facing. I truly believe when they draw a map in Korea someone has a giant wheel of fortune and they spin the map on it and decide to draw it oriented wherever the wheel stops. I saw other people on the trail twisting their head upside down and placing their phone on the map. Just make up North you idiots! I stopped looking eventually, at one point I thought I had gone back in the direction I had come from because a map was rotated 180 degrees. OK I have had my say on maps.
I had to change from the subway to a train at a very cold, very windy location famous for its hot spring foot spa. It was concerning that it was so cold and windy, I had elected to hike without my coat today because on all previous hikes I carried it the whole way, and today was forecast to be warmer.
If you are reading this wanting to do the same loop course that I did, or you just want to avoid the $4 entrance fee, TURN RIGHT HERE.
It started to look like rain at this point, I was getting concerned, wet and freezing might be bad! I went to see the local evil high priest for advice.
I decided to sit and ponder the weather with these 2 cats in the local Ediya coffee shop. In addition to cats they had a sewing and knitting corner and a library. Ediya is not some small boutique store, its a national chain like Starbucks.
The path at first was rewardingly rocky. My poor shoes are wearing out fast clamouring over all this granite. Every Korean hiking trail is sharp granite.
Thinking back to the tiger eating some guys brother story from a couple of days ago, I was thrilled to see that on this mountain you can ride your tiger around and get him to attack monks.
After a lot of ascending in the fog, the ascent got too steep and needed vertigo inducing stairs. It never rained despite constantly looking like it was.
Behold the view! This is the first of many views. They call all the peaks the roosters comb. Lots of mountains claim to have a roosters comb. There was no view, just white.
I enjoyed carefully going along the ridge between the peaks. It probably looked much more dangerous than it was due to the fog.
I made this peak look much more precarious than it was. But OK, I had to scale up here like a pro rock climber, hoisting myself up hand over hand, during a thunderstorm in a gale force wind.
And then, I heard oohs and ahhs from above, birds started chirping, and the fog disappeared, suddenly! Just minutes after I had left the summit area.
It might still look foggy to you, but to me it looked crystal clear. I now realised the cliffs were steep.
And then I was back down, and entering the Buddhist temple through the back entrance, enjoying the fluro lanterns in brilliant bright sunshine.
Nice shot of the temple and the mountains in the distance, thats now smog not fog. Also earlier I saw a dog.
The road back to the bus stop was lined on both sides with shops selling questionable goods and services. Scissors that can cut through a shoe, tarot card readings. Why would you want to purchase kitchen scissors on your way to go hiking? I guess you never know when you might need to cut through a shoe.
And for my last photo, its basically the same as one of the first photos, taken in the same spot to show the difference. Actually it doesnt look all that different, the camera hides the truth. At this point it was blindingly bright, at the start of the day it was almost dark.
Wandering around Yuseong Spa to eat mandoo
I walked away from what I thought was the main part of the city and found a nicer part of the city. This part of the city is very far from the train station, and about a km or so from the subway line, and yet it seems very modern.
Apparently Daejeon is the silicon valley of Korea, although that could just be wishful thinking by the local mayor. They do seem to have the main campuses for both LG and Samsung somewhere far, far away on the city edge for some reason. This evening I thought maybe I was there, but the map tells me I was at completely the wrong end of the city for that to be the case.
My travels took me through a few different nice looking suburbs, all with the numbered monolithic blocks of white concrete apartments, some of which are made by Samsung and LG. Eventually I got to what is apparently the number one tourist attraction of Daejeon, the foot spa. It is a kilometre or so of outdoor little pools of water at different temperatures, with areas set up between the pools for entertainment. I saw an orchestra playing, some K-pop dancers, sad saxophone, people trading their dogs, political rallies, you name it there was a foot spa pool for it.
Apparently the foot spa pools are not without drama, you need to properly wash your feet in a drain pool before you can stick them in a hot pool. Even visiting Koreans do not know this etiquette, and it has caused a number of fights between warring factions of feet soaking elderly citizens. Possibly with one drowning.
My first pic of the late afternoon come courtesy of a convenient highway overpass. As usual I have selected a course that sees me walking directly into the blinding sun. Those are however the mountains that were covered in fog as I was climbing today that you can see here in the distance.
Here are some numbered apartment blocks. I believe they are actually quite nice. Certainly the bottom 3 or 4 levels of every single one are shops and restaurants.
So many blossoms. 2 shades of white and a bit of yellow. Yes I know the horizon is not level in this shot.
My walk took me across at least 4 rivers such as this, all had nice walking / bike riding trails. I wanted to go running along them.
This is just an example of a nice street in Daejeon, in an area I was not expecting to see too much at all.
I think I have taken a photo of this sign on a previous trip. They play some interesting sports here. In Japan you can get cream filled kolon.
And here is an example of the foot spa area. One of the brown signs above the road referred to it as 'foot spa world theme park'.
You might recall last night I did not photograph my dinner due to it being street food requiring both hands and to eat standing up. I did try to make up for it with a photo of the pancakes that I ate, but to really make up for it, tonight there are 2 photos of my dinner! Part one, cheap bibimbap. It had a lot more vegetables than you normally get. I suspect thats because its cheap, but actually I wanted the extra vegetables.
Part 2 was some mystery meet dumplings. I clearly over ordered but gave it my best shot. This place was one of countless almost identical little restaurants underneath the giant apartment blocks, plastic tables and terrible lighting. They have no English menu and no English speaking skills. No problem, I waved at Auntie, and we went out the front and I pointed at the pictures on the window. I got what I wanted.
Last photo for tonight is one I promised last night. This is what all the streets near my hotel look like. They are generally all hotels of questionable moral standing, bars, massage places, karaoke lounges and of course restaurants. Nearly all the restaurants are bbq and you cant really do that on your own. Now I will go to sleep, early.
Exploring the Daejeon arboretum and Expo science park
For my rest day I walked about 20km around Daejeon. On the way I identified where I am going tomorrow. I also went to about 30 gardens, joined a speed skating crew, went to the world expo park, played a round of golf and then surprisingly found the actual centre of town which had eluded me until now.
I set off without a plan and followed the subway line, in case a plan came to me. Before very long at all I arrived at the centre of the city. Daejeon really is the city that google forgot. Not until I googled the actual suburb name while I was standing in it did I find any reference on google to it being the downtown heart of Daejeon with the big department stores and all that goes with it. So there are so far 3 centres of Daejeon that I have found, all in a town of just over a million people. It also occurs to me that one day I will be reading this and laughing at saying 'google' a lot, when google is nothing more than altavista is to us now, but I digress, as usual.
From here I headed North, I knew where I was heading because every website makes mention of the GREAT DAEJEON EXPO of 1993, surely the greatest spectacle the world has ever seen since the unveiling of the magnificent Sunsphere (yarn barn) at the 1982 World's Fair in Knoxville, Tennessee.
The expo is long gone, and is now a convention centre and some rather strange government buildings including the national statistics training bureau and bus stop design centre institute. More on that to come.
Perhaps even stranger, adjoining the main convention centre is a golf mall, complete with theme hotel, pitching green, putting green, and golf swing correction medical centre.
My path back took me back past the speed skating until I realised that the real geographical centre of town is an extensive military base, which explained all the 15 year olds walking around the parks in full camouflage fatigues cuddling their sobbing mothers. I was also wearing camo pants, but no mother tried to adopt me. Once I hit the razor wire I had to make a detour around the compound back to safety.
The first park of the day, still quite early. I had already walked through the very very closed until 11AM centre of the city at this point.
This was the start of the main park, split in two, I think they call it the arboretum. There was definitely an 'oak zone'.
Splitting the arboretum was this massive pedestrian concrete marching area / speed skating course. The really strange thing about it is that roof is on wheels, and theres a few pieces of it that can slide along to different positions. Why though? Why not just erect a permanent roof?
The speed skaters on rollerblades were really going very fast, which made the fact that pedestrians and kids on scooters can also just wander across the track a particularly dangerous situation. I saw a number of near misses just while I was standing here waiting for the photo, one little girl chased a ball into oncoming speed skaters. I helped out by sliding the giant roof along the tracks a bit.
The park has an impressive mound to climb up and appreciate the view from. Behold, many blossoms, and a clear sky. It was very warm at one point, I would guess about 20 degrees, but then after lunch it got cloudy and quite cold. Discussing the weather really is very boring.
It was now time to head to the great expo park, I was super excited, who knows what wonders of the modern world await?
While crossing the expo bridge I identified where I will be going tomorrow. Assuming I can work out which bus to take.
Yes, its a sign, but its a sign that says 'Daejeon traffic culture institute'. These are the sorts of things that now occupy the former expo site.
And here is golf world. That is a 5 storey (story) high metal golfer statue. You really can go into that place to get corrective surgery to improve your golf swing. I researched who uses storey and who uses story and considered just typing level, then I saw that storie is also acceptable. Yay English.
On my return journey I passed yet another park, this one is a prehistoric park, complete with straw huts with cctv.
The main part of the city was now open, the big mall thing had 3 basement levels, the third of which was a very nice food court, very metallic and minimalist.
I decided to have vegetarian spicy gimbap, actually quite spicy this time. Very good. Nice soup also, no idea what it is, chicken, miso, dirty dish water, who knows.
Between the city centre and my hotel were a number of universities and street areas that look like this. I will walk past again tonight at night and be blinded by all the flashing billboards.
And just like Japan, Korea has no bins at all, only bags. Piles and piles of bags of garbage on the street at all times. This is how you get a good recycling outcome, make all garbage visible at all times!
Eating ramen in central Daejeon
As suggested earlier, tonight I went to the real centre of the city. I missed it until this morning when it was closed, but yeah I already said that earlier.
It is what you would expect, lots of places to eat, lots of places to buy Supreme gear, about a thousand cafes.
The Korean cafe thing is ridiculous. Apparently they had basically none 10 years ago, there was no concept of coffee then. Now there are 4.3 cafes for every person. No really there has to be 10,000 of them in this city. Every street corner has multiple cafes. Some are chains you would recognise, but many seem to me at least to be independent. This evening I walked back to my hotel through some quiet residential streets and on every corner there was a cafe, and most of them had the same antique looking furniture and a bookshelf and a cactus. All of them had the same clientele, young(ish) girls sitting in there staring into a tiny mirror. Honestly, I saw no men, and everyone really was looking into a mirror. So there you go, the thing to do in Korea is to go to a corner cafe, not read a book, look out for the cactus, and stare into a mirror.
I should probably go into one and see what happens, but I cant drink coffee after 12 and none of these places open before 12. Oh well.
Now after that pointless paragraph, not very many pointless photos!
THUMBS DOWN. Here is one of the squillions of cafes. Each time I mention how many there are I multiply it by a thousand.
The main shiny street, full of larger department stores. However dont be fooled, most of the shops in Korea are under the street. Like all Korean cities there are kilometre long malls under the street. Although this area does not have a subway, there is still an under street arcade, however it is nothing compared to the one near the main station that connects 3 subway stations.
This is a very colorful, very nice area. The eating places are a bit more international, more than just bibimbap, gimbap, bbq.
To celebrate a street with non Korean food, I had Japanese Ramen, and it was actually very good. I got the spicy version, sat at a bar just like in Japan, stared through the window to the kitchen to see if I could tell if the chefs were Japanese or not. I couldnt tell. But they made good Ramen.
My journey home was colorful, as ever. I even saw an Indian guy! Standing on a corner taking photos like me. Daejeon does not seem to be popular with white people / subcontinentals. At least while I have been paying attention. I do think there are a few Chinese people, I saw a lost looking large tour group earlier carrying lots and lots of boxes of shopping. This post sounds racist, but I dont view the world through blinkers, a black person is black, an Indian person is Indian or maybe Pakistani, a white guy is balding and middle aged. In a crowd full of Koreans that is what makes different stand out. I stand out for not only being white balding and middle aged but also for being angry looking, and dressed like a homeless person. Perhaps hundreds of Koreans went home tonight and said 'I saw an old white balding angry homeless person!', thats my dream.
And as a special treat, here is a can of chupa chups. It is actually a drink, not a can full of lollipops.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2019-04-07 said:
Stick to Seoul and busan if your main thing is shops
mother on 2019-04-07 said:
Good people and shops as requested. Now I want to see the underground shopping malls as well. Lack of other tourists makes this a tempting place to visit.
mother on 2019-04-06 said:
had to work today, so no time to check. Not enough shops and people in these photos.
David on 2019-04-06 said:
I accidentally broke my website for about 3 minutes then... I am surprised my mother didnt notice.
Walking a full lap of the Gyekoksan Hwangtogil trail via the subway and red route 2 bus
Today I went and walked in some clay, for many many hours.
East of Daejeon is a small mountain, Gyejoksan. That is not generally where people go, but I went there to climb over it to get to the start of where I wanted to be. Most people drive to the start of the famous clay walk. Allow me to explain.
Once you are over the mountain there is a 13km loop track, which has one side of it covered in red clay. The clay has a special name, or maybe its just Korean for red clay, but the name is Hwangtogil, and hence it is called the Gyejoksan Hwangtogil trail. But wait, it gets more impressive from there. Here are just 4 of the awards handed to the red clay trail in the top 4 google hits -
• 33 travel destinations to go back to (2008)
• The must-see place in May - Korean Traveling Agency (2009)
• Top 100 destinations Korean must visit (2011)
• 2nd G Market Local Government E-marketing Fair Grand Prize Winner (Year unknown)
So as you can see, its kind of a big deal. The above list suggests its the place to go in May, and now its April, so I am too early for the water truck to travel the 13km course and spray it with water to turn it into mud so that you can walk barefoot the whole way on some kind of weird pilgrimage that may or may not be an officially sanctioned United Nations Childrens Event featuring orphans from Uganda (another google link!).
I was actually very glad that it was not mud, I cant think of anything worse.
Getting to the base of the mountain to climb over to get to the start of the clay trail required the subway, and then a bus. I had chosen my bus wisely, route number 2, red 2, it comes every 5 minutes. I followed my progress on my phone and got off in the middle of nowhere and was greeted by a grey day. It would soon be bright sunshine. Annoyingly this is the only location in all of Korea where there is no convenience store within 3 metres of where I am standing. I had to walk about 5 minutes down the road to buy water and double back to my starting point.
There is the rather small mountain to climb over, that was not the goal today. Actually the road up to the mountain was the steepest part.
The hiking trail proper had a very impressive golden something to let me know I was in the right place.
This was the last bit of the path up to the top of Gyejoksan, well formed well signposted path today.
The view from the top was ok, trees in the way, too much smog, but many white identical apartment blocks below.
I had gone very hard up to the top, you can see I am sweating. It is not cold at all today. Korean people like Japanese people are very concerned if anyone starts sweating. All it would take would be for me to step in front of a fan and I would die instantly. I am having a great hair day though!
And this is where I joined the looping clay track. There were lots of little stalls set up around the front side of the course, but none on the back side. Also, old people exercise machines.
Another pile of rocks, also a pile of red clay. The clay is not naturally here, the government has trucked in about a quadrillion Korean tonnes of HWANGTOGIL, and then they have to wet it hourly during barefoot walking festival season.
It is genuinely impressive that they managed to do this for 13km, and I can confirm there were no gaps and it does go all the way around even on the remote back side of the course.
Around on the back side of the course there were basically no other people, but there was a view of a dead looking forest, and some more smog.
Down there is a bit of a very large lake which I believe has a running / cycling track all the way around it. Its a shame I am not here another day to also run a lap of the lake (I go back to Seoul tomorrow). I have run laps of big lakes in Taiwan and Japan in recent years.
And as a last shot for the day, a swamp with people fishing in it. I remember passing it on my way up and thinking, thats a strange spot for a sewage farm. But no, its a fish farm. Actually it might be both.
Exploring Daejeon station and the underground malls
Due to requests from my mother in the comments, tonights photos feature shops and people and also a sunset.
I decided to head back to the station area, knowing that there were about 20 restaurants in there that would be happy to seat a sad lonely diner. I was about to select somewhere to eat, which I noticed the whole sky was pink.
I made a detour out the back of the station, a mistake, as there was nothing there. By the time I took a couple of photos of what little I could find there and headed back to the more picturesque side, the sunset was gone. The beauty of smog is fleeting, lasts about 6 and half minutes, then its just annoying and sickening.
My dinner then took a really really long time to arrive, I pointed at a picture, not really fussed too much about what it was, and the grandma taking my order obliged. I sat down and waited, 10 minutes passed, and a half crazy looking almost a midget dude came over to me ranting and raving. I had no idea who he was, but he starts yelling PORK? PORK?
Say what?
I was really confused at this random stranger, I was getting ready to stab him with a metal chopstick. I looked over from where I had ordered and saw grandma waving and looking worried. The guy who was just yelling pork over and over now pointed at a menu and yelled pork, and I realised he must work in the restaurant. He must also think I am Jewish or a muslim and cant eat pork? I said, OK pork! And he said, beef beef? pointing elsewhere on the menu. I looked mad at him now and slowly said, Pork o.k.
On the far side of the station, there was a nice drain, with flowers, blossoms, and a whole heap of parked cars? I worked out this is for insurance purposes. If you want a new car, park it here, and hope for a flash flood.
As mentioned above, the sunset was great, but it was on the far side of where I was, here are some buildings, in the glass you can see a reflection of the beautiful smogset.
My dinner, its pork I think. At some point a non Korean has obviously come to this place and gone insane because they were served pork. Either that or the local propaganda jesus station is popularisng the idea that Americans (clearly I am one to all Koreans) will die if they eat pork, due to inferior digestion powers.
This was a surprise, I came out of the station and thought, wow, everyone must be lining up for last minute tickets home or something. But no, its the breadline! For people not familiar with depression era history, its a line of poor people waiting for free food. You cant quite see it here, but theres a guy on the ground who got in a fight and lost. Melbourne has similar to this I guess, a lot more trucks and a less orderly line, but probably more people in total, I suspect in Daejeon this is THE (one and only) free food for poor people line.
After getting my free food, I headed down into the underground shopping malls. There was no great spot to take a km long shot of a corridor, but they are genuinely a km or so long, in multiple directions. So there you go.
If you have seen a bunch of Asian kids lined up out the front of foot locker in Australia, they are Korean. In Korea, they are also Korean, and shoe shops are everywhere. The only hobby more popular than hiking in Korea is shoe collecting. A funny contrast to the breadline shot above.
The rubbish thing is quite strange. Every pillar under the video roof, which is by all accounts the star attraction of Daejeon, has an area for placing big bags or rubbish. And then every spot has a poor person who won the fight to stake out their spot going through the rubbish. So there you go, the way to get a great recycling outcome (Korea leads the world by some measures) is to leave the rubbish proudly on display in popular areas and then have enough poor people to sift through it constantly. Problem. Solved.
This dude was advertising for a live fish eating restaurant. you get a small fish tank on your table and a pair of tongs to catch your own fish, which you then eat while its still alive. They are quite small, so its a real skill if you can swallow one live without chewing to get a nice full feeling in your stomach.
Last shot tonight, a real actual game of tetris occurring on the roof. I saw the person playing it at the information booth thing advertising the great wonder of the Daejeon animated roof. Tomorrow - back to Seoul.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
adriana on 2019-04-07 said:
Interesting shop names - don't think I will go to the Burning Hair hair salon though.
David on 2019-04-07 said:
I did not walk barefoot, generally thats only done during the festivals where they wet it and it turns into mud. There were a few people walking on it today barefoot but I think they might have been doing so ironically.
Brian on 2019-04-07 said:
Like the red clay path . Bare foot walking?
mother on 2019-04-07 said:
Looks like that clay path will cure all my present ailments and future ones as well. At least I don't think I have dementia yet, or maybe I've forgotten.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
bobule on 2019-04-05 said:
great photos! love the fog ones!
adriana on 2019-04-05 said:
Looks like a nice quiet town. Where are the main shops? Do they have an underground mall?
Brian on 2019-04-05 said:
Another set of great photos David.
mother on 2019-04-05 said:
Best photos yet. Great contrast. love the fog photos and the tall cliffs.