National museum of Korea
Every day, there are thousands of news stories, advising me that the National museum of Korea is now the third most popular museum in the world, with a meteoric rise in visitor numbers in the last few years since they employed both BTS and Blackpink as curators, the gift shop even sells exclusive merch from both. Also it is free and old people come to enjoy the air conditioning.
Museum #1 is the Louvre (been there), while #2 is the soon to be bombed by the USA because the pope supports transgender bathrooms Vatican museum. So there you go, now you know.
I have actually been to the Korean national museum before, in 2011, and it was very different then, it now has a much bigger focus on large installations and digital presentations. I did enjoy many of the large open spaces, for me the actual museum building is more impressive than much of the old pottery contained within.
Not part of the museum yet, but I was enjoying the tunnel from the metro to the museum. The big open spaces are a sign of things to come.
They really are very very proud of the art newspaper visitor figures survey, I believe when I arrived in Korea they stamped the same message in my passport.
There it is. I cannot quite fit it all in, despite the large amount of concrete I have decided to feature in the foreground. There are numerous chain coffee stores and convenience stores just to the left of this photo.
The hole in the middle is large, polluted today but you can still see the Namsan tower in the distance.
One of many 3D digital exhibitions, hard to know what they were all about, seemingly random mix and match images. There is also a VR exhibit where you sit with goggles. I did not.
Probably the best bit, the quiet contemplation room, just 2 statues, and just out of frame, a security guard with the loudest security radio of all time. I stood and contemplated the hilarity of that for quite a while.
Despite all the signs warning not to take a photo from this spot, I did. Thankfully I did not fall over the railing to my death, or drop my camera on someone below.
And just as I expected, much busier than anywhere in the museum itself, people buying museum themed k-pop souvenirs from the museum shop. Peak Korea. The BTS designed hair clip was $50 (not a joke).
Now you have seen the third most popular museum in the world.
Jamsil and Lotte world tower
Last time I went to Seokchon lake at Jamsil, the blossom festival was in full swing. This year, I am too late, no more blossoms, just the worlds 6th tallest (previously 5th tallest) building, the Lotte world tower.
So in one day, I have seen the worlds 3rd busiest museum, and 6th tallest building, what are the chances? Pretty high if you live in Seoul I guess.
I think I go to this area of Seoul every time I visit, the lake, which is kind of twin lakes with a road through the middle are nice to walk around. You can gawk at the fun park, which I never go to, because I do not like fun, and then you can take your pick of mall basements for a cheap dinner.
On first inspection, the food court was gone, I headed up to the upper levels but the restaurants there were either too fancy, sushi sneeze trains, or had lines of people, so I was determined to find the food court, and eventually I located a renewal food court, and had malatang again with the other poor families.
It's a whole new world. When I was over the road it was showing an animated version of 'the scream' painting, but by the time I got to the photo spot it was playing something much more boring.
The amusement park has various devices designed to kill the occasional visitor. I am willing to bet if I google that, I will be correct.
A very nice place to walk around. They have markings on the ground for joggers to know how far they have run, assuming they cannot afford a fancy gps watch like I have.
Malatang again, but really, it was matang, a little ma but no la. So not as good as the actual malatang I had in Daejeon a week or so ago.
After my dinner I walked a lap of the other half of the lake, which gave me a shot at a night shot. Impossible to get all of the tower in.
Tomorrow is a hiking day... the last one!
Namhansanseong fortress
Last hike of the trip, I hear people celebrating that there will be no more boring photos of trees and rocks.
For my last hike, I went somewhere that is barely a hike, that I have been to before, Namhansanseong fortress from Namhansanseong station.
Last time I missed a bit of the wall so I could see the temple and restaurants and car parking spaces in the middle of the walls, today I made no such mistake.
Also today I walked up the hill from the station, along a stream, passing old people recreation zones and other temples, last time I took a bus. So the additional bits turned it from a fortress visit to a hike.
Now for the final set of stats -
27,000 steps
15.66km
4 hours 47 minutes
875m vertical ascent - but mostly ups and downs
1,070 calories burned - easiest hike of the trip
Unusually, the best wall photos are at the end of the batch below, the bit of the wall I missed last time I was here.
It is about a kilometre from the station to the start of the fortress park / trail. Lots of convenience stores to choose from.
The journey up to the wall is steep, developed, and busy. A lot of old folks around with their transistor radios listening to conspiracy theories.
Before too long, the wall appears, with one of its 4 majestic gates. I will pass over or under or around all 4.
I walked along the top of the wall wherever that was possible, which was probably 90% of the journey. There are also paths below it on both sides that are less rocky.
The first bastion. A lot of the bastions have construction going on. Eventually I get to say 'the last bastion of hope'.
My loop was anti clockwise, I would say for 2/3 of the hike around the wall, there were no other people at all other than at one temple, and one road crossing with construction. This was very surprising. I expected to be battling old folks.
The next bastion has not been restored fully yet. Nearly all of the wall has been fully restored. More since my last visit.
This is probably the main temple along the way, a bit back from the wall. The road comes up to here.
This section is very near the main temple in the middle of the walls that I did not visit today. As you can see, there is a wheelchair friendly road, and other people.
The other main temple other than the main temple... What I mean is, the 2nd biggest temple that is along the wall, rather than the one huge temple that is in the middle of the wall. OK that's confusing, it's just a photo.
And after a few hours, I was back at the same gate I started from, having completed my loop. Time to head back down to the city the same way I came up.
The outdoor library, seating and exercise equipment let me know that I was almost back to the city and the awaiting train.
No more hiking.
Gangnam west
A small number of disappointingly bland photos await, plus a pile of vegetables in brown mush. Enjoy.
Not quite my last dinner of the trip, that will be tomorrow, but after my last hike, it was time for curry. I needed it early because I was starving.
Running out of boring stuff to talk about, so really all I did was check out the back streets of the far side of Gangnam and the malls that connect the train stations together. There were a lot of people, coughing in harmony from their terrible vape lung.
Back above ground and there were a lot of hills to climb, not just any hills, the famous Gangnam hills, where the streets are narrow, the cafes are plentiful and the real estate is expensive.
The back streets are all very interesting. The row of blue chairs on the right are to line up and wait for a seat at the crab shack. Currently, there is no line.
I became a bit shaky so decided to have an earlier dinner. Coco this time, not as good as Korean knock off brand Abiko, but still pretty good. Vegetarian omurice for me.
Back to the main road, and they have provided a bus stop in the middle of the road for people to stand at and take photos of traffic.
Then since I found my dinner early on, it was time for an early night, via the underground.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day. It could have been. I have a 'spare' day in Seoul in case of rain preventing any of the hikes that are now completed. There was no rain. So as I often say, I have no plan.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-04-22 said:
All so nice and green now. Is it hot?
Inwangsan and Mangwon market
I promised no hiking so I will not call it a hike. Also I was wearing normal pants, so that means it cannot possibly be a hike. No stats either.
Today I caught the subway over the river and walked up Inwangsan. The tourist err upward stroll.
It has the best views of Seoul by far, plus a wall. I have seen a lot of walls lately. Anyway, I found a different way up the side via a staircase compared to my previous visits, which was nice and shady as it was hot and my pants were filling with sweat.
After appreciating the view, I headed down the normal way, following the wall and all of it's never ending construction.
My next and final stop was apparently the hip and upcoming market area at Mangwon. To me this seemed like any other market, only smaller. I suspect it's popularity is because it is very near to Hongdae (red road with buskers) and also the world cup stadium, which is perhaps when it became re-popular.
So that was probably enough for my kind of last day but not really, as my flight leaves late afternoon tomorrow.
Because yes, the shrine looks over this archery area. I did not take a very well angled photo, they are shooting at targets about 100m away, over some rocky areas with flowers. Not many hit the targets.
Now I will go up there. I had taken a wrong turn and was about to double back, then I checked the map, and there is indeed a side trail.
The low down view with stairs. Still polluted today, I read an article suggesting the pollution was worse than the last few years, and that is surprising given the lack of crude oil in the world.
Now I will head down again. It probably takes about 45 minutes to get to the top if you don't stop for a 3 course meal.
After a subway ride with one transfer, I arrived at Mangwon k-market, ready to see what a trending market looks like.
The other end is labelled Mangwondondong world cup market, with a few soccer (football) balls painted around the place.
Finally, I needed some water, so sat at a convenience store trying to figure out if this sculpture at the pop-up trendy market was genuinely made of lego or not. The jury is still out.
Apgujeong rodeo and Garosu-gil
What will my last Japanese meal in Korea be? Omurice? Curry? Ramen? You will have to scroll down for the shocking conclusion.
Before all that, I went to two places. Long time readers from about 3 weeks ago will remember Gungdong rodeo in Daejeon, well tonight I went to Apgujeong rodeo. SO THIS WAS NOT MY FIRST RODEO. Thankyou.
It is a number of streets all given the same name, I am wondering if that is actually a thing in Korea for all the streets in a city block or just in special areas. I may never know, anyway, there are a few interesting places to look at and a lot of guys in Ferrari's specifically driving down streets way too narrow for their cars.
Next up was a brief stop at the Hyundai department store, photographed on a previous night. They had a very large food court, but when I went to the machines to order, all the places were closing as it was 7pm. Now I had to work fast and walk to the next area over of Garosu-gil, home to the flagship stores of numerous fashion brands, plus apple, so really exactly where I belong, but fear not, I still managed to find a cheap Japanese meal.
On this corner there are flagship dealerships for Mercedes, Audi, BMW but most importantly, Hyundai, who have flipped all their cars against the windows. This is to give potential customers browsing inside the store a good look at the leaf spring suspension.
Over the road, another department store, this is the high end annex of, wait for it... Galleria. There are so many Galleria's in the world, I could make a documentary series about them all.
The fancy street of Garosu-gil is very nice, but very hard to photograph. Much more like a fancy street in a non Asian city.
And finally, for my last supper, hamburg steak. Cheap options in Garosu-gil were not plentiful, but I managed to find one under $10.
Tomorrow is a flying day. I will kill time and then wonder why people think Incheon airport is special in any way.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2026-04-23 said:
Hamburg here for the last two nights
mother on 2026-04-23 said:
Seoul seems to have a lot of green space





















There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-04-21 said:
Seoul looks fancier than Tokyo
mother on 2026-04-21 said:
I would go to Korea just to see that building. Fantastic architecture.