Geomdansan loop and beyond
Before we get to the hike, I just returned to my hotel and there were 3 police cars and a crowd out the front. I go to the door and the concierge tells the police I can enter. Mr concierge, who I think is only half Korean, tells me that there was a fight at a wedding, wedding guests are being questioned, but don't worry, the wedding still went ahead. OK then.
Today's hike is one I have done before, last time I headed down to the valley at the end and caught a bus back, today I double back beyond the loop and went down the other side of the loop, if that makes any sense at all.
Lots of pics, so time for the stats -
30,500 steps
16.58km
5 hours 22 minutes
1,859 calories burned - hot again today, 26c
1,401m vertical ascent
Last time I swam through deep piles of dead leaves in autumn, today was still a lot of leaves, but not as many as last time.
To get here is easy, take the purple line to the end, where the station is named the same as the mountain, Geomdansan. Weird church structure visible.
The hike starts immediately, not really, they put some hessian bags down and planted some trees along the highway. But really it is only about 300m to the trail starting point, with a convenience store in between.
The start of the loop course trail to Geomdansan is more of a road. There were a lot of other people on the loop part of the trail today, but not many at all 'beyond the loop'.
I am standing against the rope. These people have foolishly gone outside the rope. They could plummet at any moment.
First view of the day. Squint at the very centre of the screen and you can see the observatory across the river, which was a feature on the first hike I did on this trip 3 weeks ago.
I took a great photo in autumn of very colourful leaves the last time I was here in this exact spot.
This guy has set up a noodle stand. There were 3 such businesses running on the way up, I am sure one of them was selling moonshine.
I went along ridges to 2 more peaks, Gochubong and Yongmasan. As you shall see, neither has a great view.
Probably the only decent view along the stretch from Geomdansan to Yongmasan. You can see Lotte tower in the smog here, I will go there on one night, they have a cherry blossom festival, which is past it's peak by now.
This is where I waded through leaves in autumn last time. It does not look like it but it is very steep downhill. Not as leafy this time. Yongmasan peak visible in the distance.
Back at the loop course, and immediately other people. I will now go down the other side of the loop.
There is a plateau for the people that want a picnic, there are probably 100 or so people behind me doing just that.
And then last of all, the martyr shrine (probably). A surprisingly long hike today, just the loop would have been too short, so I am glad I longered it, yeah longered.
Sinnonhyeon for beef noodles
The streets are wide, the footpaths are wide, the buildings are tall, the fancy cars are plentiful, the hills are steep. Time to do a lap of Gangnam, which is almost exactly 10k steps, conveniently taking me over 40k for the day, yep I am just that boring.
Today's hike was quite tiring, so I just wanted to stay local, and so I had dinner at a place I have had dinner twice before in Korea, and it was probably the best meal of the trip so far, despite not being Korean food at all.
Other than that, I saw a lot of vaping, got frustrated at nearly getting run over through no fault of my own, and rode an invisible horse.
I have never actually seen one of these before. Until now there was still the possibility they are just an elaborate joke.
A taxi! No really behind me is the world Taekwondo headquarters, refer to previous trips for photos. Tonight it is relevant because I nearly died in a wedding fight earlier, so I am studying up on the moves.
Now for the main entertainment street at dusk, heading towards Sinnonhyeon station. It annoys me greatly that cars can drive down here, but even worse are the scooters.
I fled back to the main road with the wide footpaths. Much safer.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, I have no plan, less sun would be good.
Seoul folk flea market and Korail railroad museum
Today I went to two places that are very far apart. The train museum is practically in Suwon, a city I once stayed at for 4 nights that is technically not part of Seoul, but still connected to Seoul by the fantastic metro system.
Before heading to another city on a train to see trains, I went to the Seoul folk flea market. I have no idea what folk has to do with it, both Peter Paul and Mary and Simon and Garfunkel were not there, and I am out of folk references.
The market is somewhat infamous, there is an official part of the market, but the real action happens around the outside of the official part, with what are apparently, illegal market stalls. Allegedly the council drives around in loudspeaker trucks telling everyone it is illegal, but the cops don't care. Unfortunately I did not see any loudspeaker trucks, but it is big enough news that CNN ran a story on it recently.
Next was the train museum, a good 80 minutes away on the subway / metro (above ground subway). For $4 you can see a whole bunch of trains similar to the one you just rode on. It was a bit sad that almost none of the old trains allow you to go inside. The museum part was ok, lots of info on actual rails, sleepers, signals as you might expect.
And then I got to see a bike railway.
To get to the Folk flea market, I went to Wangsimni station. There are many closer stations, but this one was on a line convenient to me. I have changed trains at this station perhaps 20 times, as the trains to the mountains in the east seem to go from here. Anyway, it is a very large station area, and the surrounding streets were all quite nice.
Very hot today, 27c, a lot of people doing drain appreciation early in the day. Note this must have been a freeway in the past, you can still see a couple of old pylons in the water.
I will now enter the market area, it goes for many, many streets, in the traffic at times. A lot of what I suspect are deceased estates of junk.
I bought nothing of course, if I lived here, I probably would still by nothing. I do not like things.
I do not know exactly what is going on here, there are air force flight suits, machine guns, traffic lights, the door off a humvee. Everything you need.
Here in the distance you can see the actual market. I read that it is a school that was shut down. I am not sure about that.
Behind the official bit of the market, is more unofficial market, with old clothes just piled up on the road. OK I would probably buy stuff from here.
Train ride was next, a long way south, I got off at Uiwang station. Behind me is a nice enough main street.
A rare treat. A photo of my lunch. A salad and a coffee bun. The horrible looking grey dressing I chose is pepper and black sesame, and I have to say, it was an awesome dressing.
About 15 minutes away on foot is the railway museum, just follow the train line, there area huge number of tracks in the area as I suspect it is the main maintenance yard for Korail.
It is less than $4 to get in. These 2 are probably the star attraction. They may have been the presidents trains, the insides were very opulent, but you cannot go inside.
This is the only carriage you seem to be able to get inside of. It was hot inside. It is much like the inside of trains still in service.
Inside was very quiet, not much English. The huge model train all these museums have was behind tinted glass and not running, hence no photo of it.
Bonus activity, I exited the museum area and went through a tunnel under the real train tracks and came out at this park. Lotus ponds I believe, but lotus flower / lilly / water plant is not in season.
However, if you want, you can pay to ride a train bike around the park. These are the new hot thing in Korea, they are everywhere!
Finally, after a hot walk back to the station, I got to enjoy this blue tunnel over the tracks. I pretended I was under the sea.
Hongdae red road
One of the main places in Seoul that white people enjoy going to is the Hongdae red street, which is very much like Harajuku in Tokyo. I guess the Korean version is longer and more than just crepe shops, so I would say it is better. It is not really made for old grey strange looking angry guys like me though. Still I like to wander through in my filthy hiking shoes and pass judgement on all the western tourists there who are taking photos of Korean girls dressed as Japanese girls dressed as cartoon characters.
The problem is the food places all seem a bit like they exist to scam tourists, so my top tip is to wander at least a kilometre beyond the end of the red road before normal cheap food options resume, and you can have Japanese food made for Korean people.
As there is no room to walk along here, they have decided to plonk a few booths down in the middle of the walking area.
On previous visits I have always walked along here in the opposite direction, will it be different facing this way?
I wandered to the next station before settling on my meal, bravely I went up a dark set of stairs after viewing the menu at street level. Once I got to order, I realised the thing I wanted, which was a beef bowl of some kind, was a seasonal special, so curry hamburg steak, with cheese, was the best of the non seasonal options. Delicious but not very healthy, I add the kimchi to healthify it. Thankfully, tomorrow IS a hiking day, but not a long hike, although lately I seem to make the not a long hikes long.
Gwanaksan from Sadang to Gwacheon stations
If you are a fan of the Korean flag, today is the day for you.
This is my third time doing this hike, it is the first mountain I ever climbed in Korea, back in 2011, it is also probably the most popular hike in all of Korea. If I were to recommend one hike for people visiting Seoul, it would be this one.
It is apparently now so popular that cool Korean christian university students are using it as a tinder / grindr alternative every Saturday - just like that Bondi running club in Sydney. So I guess if people actually read this, they would probably want to go on Saturday.
Anyway, it was grey and cool today, but only rained very lightly just as I got back to Gwacheon station. I took too many photos, even after culling, so I better get to the stats -
21,000 steps - I did a couple of small detours to view spots
11.19km - short today
4 hours and 32 minutes
807m vertical ascent - some ropes involved
1,198 calories burned
Note that there are many ways to do this hike, including trails that are completely stair filled, I chose a rocky trail with ropes deliberately.
The hike starts basically still in Seoul at Sadang, where you can find everything you could possibly need, for example, the station has 2 Starbucks on opposite corners.
My path goes up to Gwaneumsa temple, where the distorted prayers were ringing out across the dark skies.
Time to hit the trail, the first part is probably the hardest, there is a nearby staircase trail instead if you prefer.
There are a lot of old military positions on this trail, and some of them appear to not be closed off. I did not go in, there are snakes in Korea, they all live in there.
Some more ridges, with stairs visible, and if you squint, you might see the antennas at the eventual destination.
When there were not stairs, the ridges were very nice, good tree cover, but also lots of view spots.
2nd helicopter spot, and I looked at it and thought ok, maybe a small helicopter could land here, then I realised... they do not actually land here to rescue someone, they just winch you up from here. All this time I thought Korean helicopter pilots were cutting trees down every time they landed on an H in the forest.
I think this staircase is new, I remember climbing up here before, and I can see where ropes used to be attached.
The golf ball tells me parts of the summit will be off limits. Also I can see a temple there - red bit to the right of the golf ball.
The summit area is very busy with a lot of construction. There is a cable car but I do not think it was operating today. You can see one of the cable car pylons on the left going up to the distant antennas.
However just over the summit, there is a very large temple, impressive how large it is given that there is no road connected to it.
The priests sell instant noodles and provide hot water, all these people are eating temple instant noodles.
And after way too many photos, I even included one of my destination, government complex Gwacheon. There is another station very nearby called simply, Gwacheon, so take your pick. As I stood here taking this, the first drops of rain hit me, good timing.
Starfield COEX mall
Tonight I went and saw another Buddha, surrounded by plastic lanterns, ate Koreanified Mexican food and went to the most famous bookstore in the world, all within 1 city block. Also I ran a lap of the mall, so if you think back to all my previous trips to Korea, then you know exactly where I was.
The Bongeunsa temple is right slap bang between main roads. I have been there in the day time before and walked all it's paths, tonight I just ducked in on my way to dinner. The plastic lanterns that all these temples are stringing from ugly metal poles are for Buddha's birthday, which is not until 24 May, and they have been hanging them up since before the start of April. There are over 9 million Buddhist establishments in Korea alone, to that is a huge amount of plastic that they then just burn. Cool.
After that, I crossed the road, ran a lap of the excellent mall running track, knocked over a few surprised security guards who seemingly did not understand what a running track is for, before I managed to locate a healthy post run dinner and then settled into the library to check out what cameras all the other tourists had. I love long sentences.
I walked there and back of course, at dusk. Big wide streets, nice cool weather. Blue skies have arrived again after the grey clouds earlier today.
Out the front of the compound is the Buddha's birthday nativity scene, which also has an apple tree, just like the one Jesus was born from.
As mentioned, there is a running track throughout the entire place, and kids do tear around dangerously, they are no match for me though.
Dinner tonight was particularly healthy, no rice! Just greenery and chicken (no tofu option). Delicious actually.
Finally the library. It is a bookshop, but they let you read anything you want for as long as you want, which seems to be a trend with a few Asian bookstore brands.
It is a very well known spot, there are tourists everywhere.
Tomorrow, not a hiking day, and I plan to go to somewhere that has risen through the ranks of worlds most popular very fast in the last few years, what could it be? You will find out tomorrow.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
Adriana on 2026-04-20 said:
Great photos. Grrat rocks. Nice greenery. What is the name of the bookshop





















There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-04-18 said:
The last traffic photo looks like a tank driving down the street.
David on 2026-04-18 said:
Sadly, it is just a hat with sunglasses on top of the hat, I really wanted it to be a dogs head too.
adriana on 2026-04-18 said:
The man at the first noodle tent has a dog's head.