Jeonju hanok village day
Now I have seen the hanok village when it is open. In completing my tour I found out that as expected, it is new, with a lot of criticism that from 2007 onwards nearly everything historical was bulldozed and replaced with cafes and souvenir shops. Despite this, and get ready for this amazing claim - "The village was designated as an International Slow City in 2010 in recognition of its relaxed pace of life where traditional culture and nature blend harmoniously". Yes, they are proud of being a slow city. Hard R.
Even better than this, they are not satisfied to just be a slow city, they are the only slow city in the world where the surrounding city has a population greater than 600,000 people. Many signs proclaim this. If you are wondering about slow cities in general, my research tells me that we have 3 in Australia, Goolwa, Katoomba and Yea, all are tiny places and yeah I have been to all 3. And also "Cittaslow is an organisation founded in Italy and inspired by the slow food movement", their logo is a snail. So nothing to do with the usual list making body of UNESCO.
So there you go, that's all you need to know about slow cities.
The first site I thought would be historic. Hmmm. It is the royal portrait museum, but also there is a shrine. The shrine is being rebuilt.
Here is the actual royal portrait museum, most of it is underground. I should mention that there is an entry fee of about $2.50.
The royal portraits seem to involve ms paint and projectors. Most of the actual portraits were drawn in about 2007 when the slow city movement started.
These wheelbarrows are re-creations of the actual wheelbarrows that were used to transport the real royal portraits, I think.
Back at the main street through the hanok village, and it is hot with bright sun today. I got burnt.
This is the rather uninspiringly named, national intangible heritage centre. Mainly hanboks I believe.
On top of the hill is something actually old, they ask you to take your shoes off if you want to walk on it, Omokdae appears to be it's name.
Most of the streets are full of air bnb's, apparently Jeonju is the 3rd most visited city in Korea after Seoul and Busan, all because of this snail certified area.
Just over the river is the heavily advertised, Seohakdong Art Village. This is a bit hard to photograph, but there are a lot of places selling hand made ear rings and related things tourists need.
My last stop of the day, the also nearby Nambu market. A strange mix of new and old. There were some rather modern cafes, and a youth zone.
But also the traditional Korean style market where leafy produce bakes in the sun next to pig heads.
Jeonju central market
Having spent last night and today in the area of the hanok market, I was hanok'd out, until at least tomorrow night. Therefore tonight I headed in the opposite direction and discovered that there is not that much else going on.
First was city hall, which has air lifted a historic site into the middle of the building (see below), followed by a nearby market that was actually quite large. The best I can do to discover it's name is that is is the central market, or possibly clam market. Google translate argues with itself.
Eventually I ended up back in the normal hotel area shopping streets for some tofu soup, exciting indeed.
Back at my hotel, and a K league professional football (soccer) team is staying in the same hotel as me, their buses and vans in team colours are illegally parked blocking all hotel entrances. Anyway, the interesting thing is, they are a top league team, but it is the armed forces team. The team is all players from other professional teams who are currently doing their military service. Hmm.
A Homeplus. This is another version of Korean wal-mart, I wandered over thinking it looked a bit run down. Abandoned.
This is Jeonju city hall. Note the ancient historic temple shrine they have craned up into the middle of the building.
The other night I mentioned movie street, this is it. The Jeonju film festival is heavily promoted. Golden footprints are placed around the area.
And now that I was full of salvation, poor person tofu stew. It was adequate.
Tomorrow, hiking day, shorter hike again I think.
Godeoksan from Daesong-dong
I had plans to go to a mountain called Gyeonggaksan from a bus stop at Jowol village. I stood at the bus stop and waved as rural bus 201 approached, and it did not stop. The next one was in 4 hours. So that was the end of that. I had to find a new journey, which would now need to be a hike without a hiking trail map in the app that I use (alltrails in Korea).
I settled on Godeoksan, as it was close and the bus journey had non rural options both there and back from roughly where I was standing.
Then I got off the bus, and using Naver maps, had 3 paths to choose from to head up. I chose wrong. The path I had chosen took me to private property with a no entry sign. I entered anyway, and could not find a trail. So I had to double back, and eventually, I found the real trail. Persistence, I have a lot.
Stats time -
4 hours 57 minutes - all stats include the dead end false start
1,059m vertical ascent
1,687 calories burned - 27c today
16.46km
31,500 steps
Not too many photos today, most of the trail had no view.
Here is my bus stop. Well not the bus stop I originally planned, my replacement bus stop, last stop on route 110.
You have to separate rubbish into 10 different bins. Good luck. In Australia and the UK there is a riot currently over introducing a 3rd bin.
After doubling back at the dead end, here is where I found an actual trail. Well I still was not quite sure at this point, but if you are looking to do this hike, I guess, you need to find this area behind the bus stop.
As it turns out, this is a fortress wall, and so it is indeed the right trail. I made another brief detour to walk along the wall, but the trees were all too tall so there was no view.
I think the peak 2/3 to the right of this photo was my original destination today, but I was going to climb it from the far side. Bus said no.
After the earlier bus debacle, I was thrilled to get back to the bus stop and find a personal electric chariot waiting for me.
So in summary, I managed once again to make a short hike into a somewhat longer one.
Jeonju hanok village and bulgogi
After a few weeks of avoiding it, I decided to cook my own dinner. Well sort of. It was not the full Korean bbq experience, just a bulgogi place, I will explain below with three (3) food photos.
Before settling on my dinner it was time to do a last lap of the famous slow hanok village at dusk. This produced a few nice photos with the golden hour light, I did my best to hide the destructive tourism features including pink golf carts with flashing LED lights for people too fat to walk, caricature portrait tents, twisted potato on a stick, dancing Kim Jong un... you get the idea.
Now for some photos with my camera pointing into the setting sun, which always makes for the best photos.
I waited around to make it look quieter than it was, especially waiting for the stupid golf carts to get out of the frame.
OK, last one of the hanok village is a fitting end, a giant multi level cafe, this one has no windows, you can fall right out of it.
Now for my dinner. All this and more for about $10. So far we have green onions and bean shoots on hot plate number 1, and a saucepan of a few mushrooms and green things on top of hot plate number 2. The lettuce leaves are for making parcels of bulgogi, once the actual bulgogi arrives. The new to me thing is inside the plastic in the ashtray, I thought I maybe had to make a pizza as it is just a ball of dough.
The actual pork bulgoi was pre cooked elsewhere and brought to my hot plate to continue cooking, I ate some of it wrapped in lettuce, but mainly just ate it off the hot plate.
And now the piece de resistance, while I was eating my bulgogi, the boss lady came over, put on disposable plastic gloves, and peeled bits of dough off and put them in the soup pot. Here on the left, you can see the result, plain boiled dough. My research tells me it is called Sujebi. It tasted exactly like if you were to mix flour and water and eat it. I guess it is a rice substitute.
Tomorrow, back to Seoul, but don't worry, I will be on the other side of Seoul, for 7 more nights!
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-04-16 said:
Dinner looks delicious
David on 2026-04-16 said:
Todays one was a regional bus, I it runs about once every 4 hours. I suspect the driver just assumed I did not really want to get on the regional bus, he probably knows his regular clientele.
mother on 2026-04-16 said:
Interesting that the buses aren't stopping for you. Are there people on them or are they just going back to the depot?
KTX from Jeonju to Seoul
Now I am back in Seoul, and somehow on this trip that featured 5 hotels, I have always been on level 10, and twice in the same room number as my apartment number in Melbourne (which I will not write here). That seems statistically impossible, I can do the maths.
Getting here today took a long time, not that the bullet train ride was long, but I got to the station in Jeonju too early, then once I got to Seoul I had to transfer to the other side of the city on the Subway, and then find an ATM, and then go to the landromat, and then translate all the sings in the laundromat, and then wait for my underpants to dry.
Anyway, now I am in Gangnam, and have the greatest view imaginable out of a very dirty window (see below).
The Jeonju station is nothing to write home about. But there is a lot of construction going on nearby.
Back inside the current station and it has a few shops, it is not too busy now but when I first arrived it was overflowing, hence why I went off for a walk around the block dragging my suitcase.
As I was early, I decided to have the Jeonju speciality - this sort of a cake. They are available everywhere in many flavours, including the train station. The name seems to just be, Jeonju pie. They are basically, a wagon wheel, complete with strawberry jam in the middle. So there you go, sometime in pre history, mr wagon came to Jeonju and stole the idea. Also that's my pants.
The inside of the train is the inside of the train. I have the seat on it's own in first class again. No more bullet trains on this trip.
Behold the laundromat. I purchased a card that you cannot refund because I could not find the coin changer machine... then once I had purchased the card I found the coin changer machine. So I had about $5 left on the card that can only be used at this specific store. I tried to give the card away to 2 different people, they looked horrified and left the store rather than talk to me, so if you need $5 laudromat credit, there is a card on the table.
Now for the exciting hotel room photos, and I have outdone myself. This is Hotel Eliena in Seoul Gangnam. As far as I can tell it is not part of a chain. I booked a year ago for under $100 a night, it is now 3x that price. Room is huge.
The main fault is that the work desk, part of which is showing on the bottom left here, has no power points, I now have a power cord running across the floor.
But the best feature, despite the very dirty window, is my 10th floor window. Check out the view and the great clouds. Another cloud shot coming up this evening.
Hangang park
The Han river, or Hangang if you speak Korean, is the main river that runs through Seoul. Despite repeated efforts by the government to convince people a boat ride would be fun, there still are none. No boats ever on the river. It is basically Hormuz. Perhaps they think there are still mines in it from the Korean war.. I guess it's possible.
The river is a couple of km down a hill from my hotel, and I got there and realised I had walked that section before, at sunset before. Basically I went there because I thought the sunset would be good, but the cloud that I had seen earlier out of my window (and is shown again below) basically only existed out of hotel window in the opposite direction of the river. Still, there is a sun and a river.
Before I headed out, just the clouds outside of my dirty hotel window. If I was a cloudologist I would know the name of this sort of cloud, Rhinonombulis, that will do.
I do recall walking past, but not going into this Hyundai department store in the past, so I did that again. Edge of cool clouds visible.
These are not boats anymore. They may never have been actual boats, the next one as you shall see definitely is not. It is filled with restaurants and a convenience store.
This one was definitely never a boat. Like I said, they recently tried to re-launch a ferry service across the river, a bit like the star ferry in Hong Kong, but no one went on it so it closed down again.
I skirted the edges of the colourful streets of Gangnam, I am sure they will be seen again on another night.
Finally, it was time for a late dinner of tofu poke bowl, with chick peas AND hummus. Delicious.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, on a Saturday, I need to pick a less busy hike.
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mother on 2026-04-17 said:
another delicious dinner





















There are currently 1 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-04-15 said:
i like this touristy town