Museums of art and geology
Today is the designated rain day, with no rain, then some rain, then almost no rain, and now more rain. So I got different percentages of damp.
According to my research on what to do in Daejeon when it is raining, Daejeon is officially the most boring city in Korea, and has been given the title of 'no-jam city' with jam apparently being Korean for fun. Well this is my third time here so I should know, and since I am also an EXTREEEEMELY boring person, I can confirm that I fit right in, and so Daejeon is indeed a no-jam city.
Despite the various states of rain, I managed to visit 2 boring museums, in fact the first one was not even the museum itself, as that had been taken over by an Andy Warhol exhibit. I find the art of Warhol extremely boring, and and that is saying a lot, so I had no interest in paying to see a soup can.
The second museum was better, as it had dinosaurs, but it was quite a walk away through the drizzle and along a fascinating drain.
Pre rain but very grey as I left my hotel, I walked through the nearby parks and checked out the sculptures.
The streets around all the government buildings are well landscaped. I seem to recall being here in the past when there were xmas illuminations, in November.
Here comes the rain! Also there is no way to cross this road for at least a mile. I had to walk a long way in the rain and double back at this point.
And yet the main museum has completely been taken over by the Andy Warhol exhibit, so instead I headed into this secret basement, which is a museum of how art that is in storage is packed away securely. Yes really.
As well as a bunch of crates and humidity monitoring equipment, there is this one big installation, called the fractal turtle ship.
Nearby is the Hanbat Arboretum. I have explored the gardens before. Often there is a roller blading race going on around these sliding airport hangar things, but not today.
Over there is the main giant mall of Daejeon, which is in the middle of nowhere. I have been there before, it has a great roof garden, I might go again on Saturday.
My journey went past a designated movie making industrial park, which also appeared to be abandoned.
I walked along the drain/river. On the other side is the science museum with rockets, I have been there before.
Behold, the next museum, officially called the KIGAM Geological Museum, I could not determine with KIGAM means, but probably includes Korea, Geology and Museum.
It is not very large, but it is quite good, and as best as I can tell, free - although my research suggested it costs 50 cents to get in, there was no one at the entrance.
There are fossils, small and large, the largest being the T-Rex, the default dinosaur of all museums.
This interactive sphere was actually very interesting. You can plot all kinds of things on it using a touch screen - cyclones, ocean currents, mineral deposits, and then I worked out how to change it to be the moon instead. The instructions on the touch screen were Korean only, so I just mashed buttons randomly.
Daejeon station area
Still raining, needed to go somewhere undercover, so the underground shopping street and world famous sky road at the Daejeon station area in the old down town dong of Eunhaeng was an easy decision. Getting to the subway however, was a 1km run through the rain, which had onlookers very concerned about my mental stability, however long term readers (this is my favourite joke) know that I despise umbrellas.
Once at the station area I checked out the far side, still nothing there, then headed underground, back above ground, underground, through the rain, back on the train, running again... and eventually had malatang - Korean style (apparently).
This is the inside of the Daejeon station, bigger than I remember, but I am still not sure if it is new or not since I was last here.
I headed back above ground to the huge Jungang market, also closing at this time, but still very interesting.
These are all actual sit down eating areas. Generally deep fried food that gets re deep fried to kill the flies that have been on it all day. I do not know what many of those deep fried things are.
The underground shopping street has a gap where this river is, however it was not raining too badly when I needed to cross the river. Possibly it qualifies as a drain. Actually it is a drain, its too straight.
The sky road is turned off! The roof of this structure is normally a giant long LED screen, I have previously shown photos of people playing tetris on it. If you go to google image search and type Daejeon, you will see mainly the sky road. I am not sure if it is off permanently, or part of the fuel saving initiatives I keep hearing about that is forcing them to dim outdoor displays across the country.
It started raining more, so back to the underground shopping street, which has many attractions such as this forest with fountains.
Right at the end where only fortune teller shops are located, a scary teddy bear and a couple of homeless guys.
The mascots are guarding the indoor below ground theatre. There is no show, but people are sitting and waiting anyway.
And finally after a subway ride back to my hotel area, malatang, advertised as Korean style but I am not sure what made it Korean style, surprisingly plenty of ma not just la.
Tomorrow should be a hiking day, I may need to start a bit later than normal to wait for the rain to pass. It will probably be muddy as it is a red clay trail.
Gyejoksan red clay trail
I have been here before. Last time there were not many blossoms and no fog. Today there were a lot of blossoms and a huge amount of fog.
The fog was so thick that I got lost near the start. I attempted to re-create the same journey I did last time, that was fine at first, I was definitely in the right spot when I saw the golden hands (see below), but then some time after the fog covered small peak, I took a wrong turn, and ended up walking much further than last time. It was 2 hours before I even hit the red clay trail, and then I still had about 16km to go.
Onto the stats -
36,000 steps
25.31km including getting lost
5 hours 53 minutes - I ran some of it
1,499 calories burned
863m vertical ascent - more than expected
Brace for fog.
Last time I took a subway and then a bus, today I took just a bus which went right to where I wanted to start today, in the same place as 7 April 2019, 6 years and 3 days ago.
As mentioned, the golden hands were the landmark I was looking for to ensure I was on the right trail.
The only real summit of the day. Not very high, it was here that I think I took a wrong, or at least, different turn compared to the last time I was here.
I was very surprised to come out into this valley, with poor quality farms. It was at this point I knew I was not on the same track as last time.
Instead I entered via the main entrance to the red clay trail park. Lots of parking and landscaping.
Behold, red clay. This is the path up to the actual loop trail for pilgrims. New clay has recently been layed, it is deep and soft.
At this point I have joined the main loop trail. I did the full loop and saw almost no one around the back 2/3 of the trail, just a couple of trail runners. You can see here the clay is older and less red.
And then when it is covered in blossoms, you can barely see the clay at all. The idea is you walk a loop in bare feet in the clay, later you will see why.
The rest of the 'hike' was foggy - as far as a hike goes it is pretty easy even though it is long, I jogged a lot of it.
Blossoms stopped occasionally, replaced by puddles. It never actually rained on me today, despite what every photo looks like.
This is the point where you turn for home. It gets busier from here back to the start with people who join from different roads and walk about 1/3 of the total loop, I don't think that counts.
I realised that this rather unremarkable spot is where I joined the trail for my full loop last time.
I also took a photo of this sign last time, it explains why it is important to walk barefoot in the clay.
And then finally, I was once more below the fog. I took a bus back from the park entrance. It was about a 20 minute wait, the bus stop seat was heated, I appreciated this as my hands had become cold, so I sat waiting for the bus, grilling my hands.
Daejeon Seogu
A few nights ago I think I did not get what I ordered. Tonight I believe the same thing happened again, it is not like I am trying to order in Korean and being misunderstood, I am pointing at a picture. However this gave me a reason to remember my first trip to Korea, when I ordered a grilled chicken salad, and got fried chicken, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on it. Tonight I ordered a grilled pork thing with spicy sauce and mushrooms, and got an enormous deep fried pork schnitzel monstrosity with gravy mixed with ketchup. I think I am getting white guyed.
Other than that, I got lost again, heading to the Lotte department store that is a decent walk away from the city centre, and by the time I realised and got my bearings, I realised I would be too late for the basement food court which probably stops serving at 8pm.
I think I mentioned that the main thing Daejeon is famous for is a bakery that is near the Daejeon train station, I went past it last night, there was a line, but it was not very photogenic. This is not the famous bakery, but there are now of course copycat fancy bakeries everywhere.
Apparently this is a Korean pub, the sign says so. It is a treehouse facade over an office building.
And finally, my dinner. They can't all be winners.
Tomorrow is a rest day... I have no plan. The sun is supposed to be shining.
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Adriana on 2026-04-10 said:
I think i need some red clay.
Yuseong hot springs
Time for another designated rest day.
Checking the map with no plan, I remembered that one of the areas of Daejeon people like to go to is the hot springs at Yuseong. I feel as though it is better looked at in the evening, where they have some lights in the trees, as during the morning it is just old people with dirty feet hanging around in the few spots they can be bothered heating the tap water.
After wandering the lengths of the hot springs, I found the main river, it is not a drain. I contemplated if I like drains more than actual rivers, at the time of writing I remain undecided.
Next I decided that I might as well go see all the old people of Daejeon in one morning, so I boarded the subway back to the main station area where I walked through the market that I saw when it was closing a couple of nights ago. This was pretty good, a lot of old junk people have been hoarding for 50 years without making a sale, yet still they turn up every day in hope.
The hot spring area is really just one strip of attractions up the middle of a road. First up, swings. The way they are tethered to the ground to prevent you from doing anything stupid is a little disappointing.
Finally I found some water. I was not really sure about the photo etiquette situation, so I kept my distance.
The message on this giant rock is apologising for all the empty pools where hot spring water should be.
Down in the flood zone, it is time for a game of sad old people golf. Literally just a flat grass area with a metal cage to hit balls at. It is very popular along the entire river flood zone.
Nobody buys cd's anymore. Instead they buy branded usb sticks? There were at least 10 stores selling nothing except these. I am confident they are going to install some kind of bitcoin related Russian application in addition to feminine Korean boys taking their shirts off while singing about teddy bears.
Now that is what I call a pedestrian bridge. The elevated viewing deck is a fantastic addition. I nominate this for the world architecture awards, Zaha Hadid has finally been defeated.
Time to explore the market again, while it is open. I started at the far end, which seems to be labelled a wholesale market. It was mainly deceased estates.
The market was not too busy, but busy enough for some old ladies to spread out leafy vegetables on the ground in everyone's way.
Now, one of the reasons I decided to come back here today was to complete my detective work. I thought that when I was last here that they parked cars down there along the river. It turns out that is not the case, it was another nearby drain where this was happening. I have confused my drains.
Surprise fighter jets! Right out in the open in the middle of town. First up, the F-5 freedom fighter, variations of which served as the Russian jets in the first top gun movie and also in the I love the smell of napalm in the morning scene from Apocalypse Now.
And then we have the F-4 Phantom, a much bigger jet, I have no movie references for it, probably because it was too expensive for movie production companies to rent.
And for my final shot on this a day of rest, a rare photo of my lunch. I can assure you I was the only male in the entire store.
Gungdong Rodeo
I have now seen all of Daejeon. The one location that had eluded me before now was the Changnam National Univeristy Rodeo street, called Gungdong Rodeo. Fun fact, lots and lots of shopping / eating streets in Korea are referred to as a 'Rodeo', and I am wondering if it is to do with Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. I am guessing Gungdong Rodeo is a fair bit cheaper than Rodeo Drive, with many places too cheap even for me, I feel a bit concerned when a meal is less than $5 Australian.
The streets strangely on Saturday were filled with University students (not strange) proudly wearing their University uniforms (strange). Do they make you wear a uniform to University here or are they just all dorks?
Anyway, after finding the most expensive place around that would still let me in as a solo dining dork, I headed back over a bridge and walked past a very large store, Traders, which my research tells me is Korean Costco, but perhaps does not require a membership fee. They specialise in selling Kimchi by the trailer load.
The University really looked enormous from what I could see walking past, here is the gate which is of very little interest.
This is not the actual rodeo, but there are a few crossing streets of interest in the vicinity of the rodeo itself.
I nearly died by scooter. Strangely they are petrol powered here, where every car and bus are battery powered these days. Maybe Taiwan has a patent on battery powered scooters with their gogoro brand.
A lot of food around here is Japanese and Chinese, I went with Japanese and had ramen. It was ok, nothing special.
And then finally, the aforementioned traders. An impressive behemoth of bulk buy wholesale goods. I did not go in.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, on a Sunday, in a national park. There will be a lot of other people.
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jenny on 2026-04-11 said:
Looks like it was cold in Korea today. 26 here.





















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David on 2026-04-09 said:
Ma la tang
We have had it together before
Where you choose your ingredients
Numbing ma
Spicy la
Tang soup
From china
adriana on 2026-04-09 said:
What is Malang and where from?