Aviation Museum and Haengjusanseong Fortress
During the night I could hear strange noises at about 3am. Pumps and what sounded like cracking glass. I thought maybe there was a gas attack from North Korea so went back to sleep and thought nothing of it. In the morning, there were huge puddles and... clear blue sky. I think it rained a lot, but the rain was gone by the time I woke up, 6 hours ahead of the forecast.
I had planned an indoor activity on this a non hiking day, that I expected to be impacted by rain, but since it was already blue sky, I decided to tack on an outdoor activity too.
The first stop was Gimpo airport, the lesser airport, where there is a very exciting aviation museum. I had read that it was rather lacklustre, but I thought it was really good, and it was free too.
As usual I was there too early, so I looked for coffee, there is a huge mall but that also does not open until 10:30, so I ended up having coffee in the airport arrivals hall, marvelling at just how many flights there are between Seoul and Jeju island (the busiest airline route in the entire world).
After the museum and lunch, I headed across the river to a mystery mountain fortress. The mystery was, there is no fortress anymore, no matter how hard you look.
Behold, the surprise blue sky. I had to walk down to Seoul main station to get the train to Gimpo airport, its only about 15 minutes away, I recently did this at midnight when I got here, in the other direction.
Gimpo international airport. Most flights from Japan and China come to this airport rather than Incheon, they prefer to only receive smaller jets, but primarily the airport exists to ferry people to Jeju island, everyone in Korea on average goes 13.7 times a year.
I headed to the mall for a coffee to wait for the aviation museum to open, but it was closed until 10:30, with security checking ID badges letting workers in.
Now to inflame some political drama. In the arrivals hall at the airport is this scale model of what Korea calls Dokdo island, which Japan calls Takeshima and the UN calls Liancourt rocks. Currently various armed fishing boats from both Korea and Japan are circling this island at all times, attempting to ram each other. They have been doing this for about 20 years without stopping, wasting the worlds supply of boat fuel. The diorama greets Japanese tourists as they arrive, the comfort girl statue is just out the door too.
A Korean designed jet. They made 200 of them. I climbed up the ladder to look into the cockpit and next thing a guy is there to help me climb in and sit in it. I had to work really hard to explain to him that I just wanted to look, not sit. I may be the only person ever who did not want to sit.
It was difficult to get a good shot of all the hanging aircraft in the main hall because as you can see it goes around a corner.
Amazingly, the museum has a roof garden. I feel as though they could have craned a couple of aircraft into the garden. I suspect this view will be gone soon, there is a large construction site right behind it.
Above the roof garden, there is even a higher observation area, where you can see the airport, kind of.
I spent enough time in the museum to go and get lunch at the nearby mall, all connected by long underground tunnels. The mall is very clean and modern.
My lunch. I rarely have a proper lunch as it is not possible while hiking. Chicken today, not beef, strangely tofu was not an option. Given that most of my website visitors in the last 24 hours were from Switzerland, this cost 5.23 Swiss Francs.
The mountain top fortress is across the river. The train goes under the river. It is a very very long way down to the station. I generally do not get alarmed at this, however this time I did. Anyway, here is the entrance to the fortress, it is nowhere near a train station but a bus goes quite often from near the train station... you need naver maps to figure it out.
A monument commemorating a battle that occurred at the fortress. I suspect where this is was once a fortress. There were signs showing bits of gravel suggesting it was fortress rubble.
Those mountains are Bukhansan National park, easily accessible from the city, I have been over all of those peaks a few times. Today would have been a good day to do that, as the overnight rain took care of a lot of the pollution.
Final pic from the no fortress mountain. A red bridge. Getting back to the city proper went on the new GTX line, after a bus, one station on the normal train and then a transfer deep (but not as deep as before) to the GTX station underground. This made only one stop before getting to the Seoul main station, slashing travel times. However it then takes about 20 minutes to get back to the surface because it is so far underground.
Insadong Ssamziegil
On my various strolls up streets filled with buildings covered in gigantic 3D billboards, I have been constantly seeing ads of fake looking alien faces with Korean hair with what looks like a syringe next to it, and the 'word' Rejuran (which also should be in quotes to express it's fakeness).
I have been trying to get a photo of one of the billboards for a while but they always change back to BTS before I can get my camera out. Anyway, I decided to research what Rejuran is, because I am clueless to all of this because of my natural beauty, and already western looking face that does not need to be cut into to make it look less Korean.
So it turns out that Rejuran is salmon sperm in a syringe, that you inject into your face, and people are flying to Korea specifically to use it, because someone on instagram told them it's great.
Let me check on the oil price again, salmon sperm tourism is using it all.
So anyway, tonight I went to Insadong and had curry.
This area next to the main castle used to be a field of flowers to prance through, they seem to have plowed (ploughed) them into the ground, and now a twisted bit of pointless construction is rising in their place.
I visit this spot on each visit for some reason. There is a tourist market at the bottom as maybe you can see.
This is probably the most famous shop for tourists in Korea, today I learned it is called Ssamziegil, double s at the start like the Ssangyong car company, and yet Samsung is not Ssamsung. Anyway, you cannot tell from the photo but I am standing inside the spiral walkway that goes continually up until presumably you get to the top and jump.
And finally, my curry. Tofu and vegetable. This is From Abiko curry, which I think is better than Coco curry, which they have here also. I feel as though Abiko is like Coco used to be 10 years ago.
Tomorrow is a hiking day. It will be cloudy.
The end for now




















There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2026-03-31 said:
So is abiko curry in Japan too then. I would like some tofu curry.
mother on 2026-03-31 said:
Aviation museum certainly well worth a visit.