Dongdaemun, Hyehwa and Naksan
Rest day today. I found somewhere to go I have not been to before. To get there I went to somewhere I have been to many times before, and my journey to that spot went along a path I have taken once before, allow me to elaborate.
Seoul has a huge underground network of shopping streets and tunnels connecting subway stations. The longest point to point journey goes from City Hall station, where my hotel is, to Dongdaemun station, home of the design and culture park, which is 5 stations away. Today I walked that journey underground in both directions, in perfect weather. I think you are supposed to use these in bad weather, like when it is -30c in winter, but if you are doing it for the love of its existence, the weather is irrelevant. By my measurement, the total distance from one extreme to the other is 3.25km.
After I emerged back to the above ground world, it was time for a quick lap of the Dongdaemun design cultural plaza by Zaha Hadid etc. (the most photographed thing in Seoul), before I headed uphill to a new to me part of town at Hyehwa. This is where there are many theatres, galleries, trendy cafes, and most importantly, a hill with a wall on it with a view.
The underground route still contains the piano staircase, which encourages you to jump 8 or 9 stairs at a time to play various tunes. Over 13 people have died attempting moonlight sonata here.
I was relieved that the underground display of tools and light bulbs remains. I am still in a bit of shock from yesterday when they took away my stance duck on Namsan.
There are lots of eclectic stores along the underground journey.
Among the areas of stores dedicated to various things is an entire section of old camera shops.
There are also parts without shops, just liminal space. Apparently liminal is not a real word despite being supremely popular lately.
The last section of underground is dedicated to shops full of places that make sporting clothes with your local teams logo on them.
I exited the underground at Dongdaemun design plaza, this child was chasing pigeons. I thought the photo would be better than it is.
A lot of shiny metal, and unusable internal space.
The roof does however have grass.
In addition to the metal, there is also a huge amount of polished concrete.
Last one.
My journey now crossed my beloved drain, lined on both sides with clothing manufacturers.
The gate in the middle of the road signals the start of the journey up the hill.
A very Japanese style thin apartment building.
One side of Hyehwa is shopping and restaurant streets marketed to University students.
The other side is all the theatres and art galleries. Also related to nearby arts universities.
However, there is Jami the Hong. I know for a fact the Hong in Hong Kong means 'fragrant' so basically this place is called Jami the smell.
While we are on about smells, you might recall a few weeks ago I showed a take your own photo place with reviews about how the place really captured the fragrance? Well apparently, there are places in Korea that capture your fragrance? This seems obscene.
One of the streets on the theatre side of Hyehwa.
The main theatres (since 1981) are a network of these red brick buildings.
It was now time to wander up Naksan for the view. It has a theatre too.
A view, without wall.
Now for some wall shots. Still pollution free today, check out the mountains.
That is the direction I had come from... largely underground.
Some more wall.
Alongside the wall are a lot of retro style hipster cafes.
Descending the last part of the wall, and I am back at the gate in the road and the Dongdaemun plaza, ready to head back underground.
For my last shot of this day, I once again crossed my favourite drain, which also has clothing manufacturers on both sides in this direction too.
Yongsan station and mall
A monk tried to fix my karma. I was standing in the light rain looking around at the buildings, and a dodgy monk came over and asked if he could ask me one question, after my obvious answer of, you already did, he asks, where do you come from... Planet earth, and I walk off. He follows me ranting about how he can sense that I have very damaged karma and he knows how he can fix it, which involved him following me around with a string wooden pearls I had to buy. Hurling insults had no effect, threatening to take his photo did. I chased after him for a while with my camera. Satisfying.
Before the monk action, I walked through Namdaemun market, got on the train and went to the huge mall with many places to eat at Yongsan station. I had been there on previous trips. It is one of the best places to eat I know of in Seoul. The dinosaurs from the outdoor garden are however gone. First the duck, now the dinosaurs.
Also it is starting to rain now, I am hiking tomorrow but might need to not start quite as early as normal.
Here is Namdaemun market, the local fabric market. It is mostly underground and I am amazed it has never burnt down (up?) yet.
A bit more market.
These are parking buildings Korean style. You place your trust in the machinations of the car stacker, and hope it does not get stuck for any reason, which generally requires a controlled implosion to bring the car chimney down.
To cross over to Seoul station I took the overpass, which is more interesting after dark.
Good view.
You can get a view of the overpass from a view point on the overpass.
Now for some Yongsan station experience. Here is the view from the station entrance.
The roof garden is multi levelled. Good times can be had here still, but it was better with dinosaurs.
The food court is fantastic. 20 good places to choose from, and a lot of places to sit.
However, I opted against the food court and instead went to a vegan restaurant. My choice that drew me in, 'soft tofu from hell'. It was pretty delicious. They were generous with the bread.
Ring appreciation time.
I was here minding my own business when a criminal monk from one of the warring monk gangs decided to try and scam me for a karma fix.
I was going to walk back, but it started raining. This is Namdaemun market again, where the roads are lined with fabric.
At this point of the short walk back to my hotel from the local station, I realised I had made the correct choice in not walking back from Yongsan.
Like I said above, tomorrow is a hiking day (the last one!), with a possible weather forced late start.