Dongdaemun, Hyehwa and Naksan
Rest day today. I found somewhere to go I have not been to before. To get there I went to somewhere I have been to many times before, and my journey to that spot went along a path I have taken once before, allow me to elaborate.
Seoul has a huge underground network of shopping streets and tunnels connecting subway stations. The longest point to point journey goes from City Hall station, where my hotel is, to Dongdaemun station, home of the design and culture park, which is 5 stations away. Today I walked that journey underground in both directions, in perfect weather. I think you are supposed to use these in bad weather, like when it is -30c in winter, but if you are doing it for the love of its existence, the weather is irrelevant. By my measurement, the total distance from one extreme to the other is 3.25km.
After I emerged back to the above ground world, it was time for a quick lap of the Dongdaemun design cultural plaza by Zaha Hadid etc. (the most photographed thing in Seoul), before I headed uphill to a new to me part of town at Hyehwa. This is where there are many theatres, galleries, trendy cafes, and most importantly, a hill with a wall on it with a view.
The underground route still contains the piano staircase, which encourages you to jump 8 or 9 stairs at a time to play various tunes. Over 13 people have died attempting moonlight sonata here.
I was relieved that the underground display of tools and light bulbs remains. I am still in a bit of shock from yesterday when they took away my stance duck on Namsan.
There are also parts without shops, just liminal space. Apparently liminal is not a real word despite being supremely popular lately.
The last section of underground is dedicated to shops full of places that make sporting clothes with your local teams logo on them.
I exited the underground at Dongdaemun design plaza, this child was chasing pigeons. I thought the photo would be better than it is.
However, there is Jami the Hong. I know for a fact the Hong in Hong Kong means 'fragrant' so basically this place is called Jami the smell.
While we are on about smells, you might recall a few weeks ago I showed a take your own photo place with reviews about how the place really captured the fragrance? Well apparently, there are places in Korea that capture your fragrance? This seems obscene.
Descending the last part of the wall, and I am back at the gate in the road and the Dongdaemun plaza, ready to head back underground.
For my last shot of this day, I once again crossed my favourite drain, which also has clothing manufacturers on both sides in this direction too.
Yongsan station and mall
A monk tried to fix my karma. I was standing in the light rain looking around at the buildings, and a dodgy monk came over and asked if he could ask me one question, after my obvious answer of, you already did, he asks, where do you come from... Planet earth, and I walk off. He follows me ranting about how he can sense that I have very damaged karma and he knows how he can fix it, which involved him following me around with a string wooden pearls I had to buy. Hurling insults had no effect, threatening to take his photo did. I chased after him for a while with my camera. Satisfying.
Before the monk action, I walked through Namdaemun market, got on the train and went to the huge mall with many places to eat at Yongsan station. I had been there on previous trips. It is one of the best places to eat I know of in Seoul. The dinosaurs from the outdoor garden are however gone. First the duck, now the dinosaurs.
Also it is starting to rain now, I am hiking tomorrow but might need to not start quite as early as normal.
Here is Namdaemun market, the local fabric market. It is mostly underground and I am amazed it has never burnt down (up?) yet.
These are parking buildings Korean style. You place your trust in the machinations of the car stacker, and hope it does not get stuck for any reason, which generally requires a controlled implosion to bring the car chimney down.
The roof garden is multi levelled. Good times can be had here still, but it was better with dinosaurs.
However, I opted against the food court and instead went to a vegan restaurant. My choice that drew me in, 'soft tofu from hell'. It was pretty delicious. They were generous with the bread.
I was here minding my own business when a criminal monk from one of the warring monk gangs decided to try and scam me for a karma fix.
I was going to walk back, but it started raining. This is Namdaemun market again, where the roads are lined with fabric.
At this point of the short walk back to my hotel from the local station, I realised I had made the correct choice in not walking back from Yongsan.
Like I said above, tomorrow is a hiking day (the last one!), with a possible weather forced late start.
Buramsan from Hwarangdae to Sanggye station
Last hiking day. I had picked a hike I thought I had never done before. Turns out I was wrong. I could pretend this was not the case, and suggest that for my last hike on this trip I decided to repeat the first hike from my last trip, but that is not true. Korean mountain names have brought me undone. I have a search system and tagging system, so I can check where I have been, but it all comes undone if I label a preivious hike with the wrong name. Checking back to 5 November 2022 and I wrote 'Short hike over Bulamsan from Hwarangdae station to Danggogae station'. Well that was wrong. It is called Buramsan. Or it is now. This bothered me enough to check a few sources. Only google maps seems to refer to it as Bulamsan, and google maps is almost useless for Korea, both Naver and Alltrails refer to is as Buramsan. So that was a long winded explanation.
Anyway, I had deliberately selected a shorter hike for my last one, and that was fortutious because it was raining, and I had to sip a coffee until 10am when it stopped raining right on the predicted schedule and I could start my short 3 hour, 8km hike with amazing views.
The Korean weather service predicted the rain would stop at 10am. They were exactly right. This road looks strangely familiar...
Walking up the road in the above pic, I stopped at a convenience store for my supplies and thought that looked really familiar too, then I got to this gate and realised, hang on, I have done this hike before. I spotted this mountain range a couple of days back, searched for it on my site, could not find it. Refer to the huge rant above for a more thorough explanation as to how that occurred.
There are a lot of military bases all over this mountain. I heard the rifle range live fire drills going most of the day. Also there are public toilets.
Lets start with a silvery view of still wet leaves and clouds. There will be a lot of view shots today.
The path was less rocky than most trails. Sandy but not slippery. I think the rain makes sand less slippery.
Much of the trail has barbed wire to keep you out of the real military base, but I suspect the whole mountain used to be a base because there are probably 6 or so abandoned pill boxes to hide in.
This is today's helicopter landing pad. The last one of this trip. After here you go down a bit before going up to the main peak.
There is the summit, with the Korean flag. BTW, in South Korea, they never refer to it as 'South' Korea, just Korea.
I will now go over all those rocks and then down. There are a lot of ropes and pegs hammered into rocks involved. You can see the train station half way up the left edge of this photo. It is from there that I took a photo of today's hike on my way to my previous hike 2 days ago, when I changed trains at that station.
Nice light with the dark clouds and almost sunshine on the distant mountains. I have climbed all those mountains previously, including in the first week of this trip at Suraksan. I just had a look at that post from April 2, and it is amazing how much greener everything is now compared to 22 days ago.
And this is where I exited Buramsan mountain natural park (as I found out it is definitely called). No farms today, just high rises.
No more hiking, sad trombone.
Namsan hill
Very interesting light this afternoon, thick but scattered clouds, no pollution, very bright sun. A lot of things in Seoul are highly reflective.
I briefly considered climbing up the Seoul tower again, and down the other side, but stopped myself just as I got to the cable car station. I cannot keep going up the same tower for the same view.
Instead I wandered around the streets below the cable car on the side of Namsan hill, which has lots of backpacker hostels that cost more than hotels. Seriously. So anyway then I bought an ice cream, and that meant there were not many photos taken because first my hands were full of the ice cream, and then the ice cream covered wrapper. There are not really any rubbish bins on the streets in Korea.
After that it was time to wander around Myeongdong some more, check on the safety of the boiling vats of oil in the street stalls, then stand out the front of a cat cafe and decide not to go in - I went to one last November in Tokyo.
I found a very nice underground bookshop. There are often not a lot of actual books for sale in book shops in Asian countries.
And since I had already had an ice cream, a small dinner was what I was after. Eggplant risotto. Not bad, small serve like I wanted. I really wanted the Taiwanese beef noodle soup in the Lotte food court, but securing a seat there seemed like I might need to win a fight.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day. It is the last full day in Korea. I have no plan!
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jenny on 2024-04-24 said:
very interesting indeed!
jenny on 2024-04-24 said:
Nice clouds today
Gyeonghuigung Palace and War Memorial
Last full day in Korea and when I went outside it was very cold and grey. Unexpected.
I had no plan so first I had a coffee and still made no plan. Then I walked in no particular direction and saw signs for various palaces. Well I wasn't going to pay, I have been to them all before, but then I remembered one of them is free. So after working out which of the 3 nearby are free, that is where I went first, right on opening time. I had the entire Gyeonghuigung Palace to myself for my entire visit.
Next, I had another coffee, it was still grey and cold. So I walked further, for a long time, and happened upon the War Memorial. I had also been there before, and it turns out it is also free! So I was sold... for $0.
It is a very large interesting place with lots of tanks and aircraft indoors and out, plus lots of info on the Korean war and various wars prior. And a huge amount of school kids running, screaming and misbehaving that I glared at. There are also groups inside trying to get you signature for various causes which was annoying. The whole place is a bit more war glorification rather than war memorial, but also very informative.
And then there was all the recently added stuff about Dokdo island.
First I swung past my beloved drain. I was wearing shorts even though it was only 8c, probably the coldest morning of the entire trip.
Until the 1960's there was an entire tram network. It was ripped out to make way for cars under American influence.
Here is the gate to Gyeonghuigung Palace. I will not be typing that again. This entire place is a complete re-creation. I will explain why shortly.
There were signs explaining that it was rebuilt in the 60's, the original buildings were dismantled by the Japanese in about 1910 and repurposed in various places as Japanese temples. So there you go, Japanese temples are in fact, Korean.
My journey south took me past the main Seoul station. A photo of the old part was requested. Here is the best I can do from this side of the road.
Now for the war memorial. Those people in the foreground are part of a Chinese tour group. I found that interesting.
As soon as you enter the main entrance, you get this makeshift Dokdo island display. Korea and Japan are currently technically at war over this random rock.
I mentioned when I visited Incheon recently about General MacArthur smoking a pipe as he rode a horse into battle. Well here is the actual pipe.
I do not know what this is, maybe it is actually made in Korea. Strange that it had a room dedicated to it.
Outside the museum proper is the military theme park area. I did not really remember the inside from my previous visit, but I definitely remember this bit. Also, blue sky has returned.
First I will check out some helicopters. The Apache is too popular so they had to lift it off the ground.
The Phantom is bigger than expected, where as the B52 is much smaller than I thought. I remembered I thought the same thing last time.
And just to round out this bizarre experience of children playing on historic war vehicles, they have added cartoon characters to pose with the B52.
OK that is enough war for today. It is coincidentally Anzac day too.
Konkuk University area
Last night in Korea. I decided to go some distance away to the Konkuk University area and all of its neon streets. I went down into the subway and got on a train heading to Hongik University, so that was wrong. I then crossed the tracks and went back the other way.
The journey to Konkuk is only about 30 minutes on the circle line, and I have been there before. It is not only full of neon and uni students, but also fortune tellers, as you shall see.
My goal once I got there was to find a restaurant that would take cash, not all of them do these days, and also a cash taking place that charged more than pennies for a meal. I still have not spent all the Won I took out the day I arrived, Korea is almost cash free now, the only thing you need cash for is to recharge your t-money card for the subway. Why can that not be done on card anywhere in the world?
Anyway, tomorrow I fly home via Singapore. The flight leaves Incheon at 16:30 and my hotel allows you to check out at 12:00, so if I make a slow journey to the airport at 12 it will work out well. Often the waiting around from 10am until say, 7pm to go to the airport for a 10pm flight is the longest day imaginable, but on this trip it is far more manageable.
Konkuk university is far enough out of town that the subway is elevated, so yeah, not really a subway then.
This is the university side of the road, the other side is apparently a Chinatown of sorts, but it is a bit hard to tell.
There is a cinema nearby, and a few of these popcorn shops around. I wonder if you can buy popcorn from here and take it into the movie? I presume people do that with tea drinks in giant plastic cups, because I have never seen a person without one at all times. Presumably when you go to the mounding ceremony when someone dies, you stand around with some sort of tea drink in one hand and a smoke in the other?
I tried earlier today to get into the Lotte basement at the branch near my hotel for lunch. Once again there were so many people there that the chances of me getting a seat on my own were zero. Here at Konkuk there is also a Lotte department store, but it is also joined to an Emart, and there is an entire underground street full of restaurants.
My mission to find a reasonably expensive restaurant that would take cash ended at the Japanese chain of Saboten. I normally don't go for Tonkatsu, but the advertised special was just a small pork schnitzel with spicy beef udon. There is a whole etiquette guide to eating here, which involves grinding your own sesame seeds. Anyway, it cost about $15 Australian, and they took cash, so I got to use some of my remaining Korean Won.
There are 50 or more stalls along here featuring fortune tellers, palm readers, tea leaf readers, tarot card readers. Weird.
I have ranted about the take your own photo and pay for it studios a few times. This one features a camera inside a dummy dryer. You pay for this. There are 20 pay to have your photos stored on our servers to be harvested for your biometric information places on this street alone.
Last one from Konkuk, this one has the train line going above. I waited for a train to come but you cannot see it from this angle.
And for the last pic this evening, just a random corner near my hotel to prove that I was out after dark! A rare thing indeed.
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adriana on 2024-04-25 said:
Great photos of Korea makes me want to go. Have a safe trip home.
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adriana on 2024-04-23 said:
I see many shops for me! Also can you take a front on photo of Seoul station. It looks like it was designed by the same person who did Tokyo station.
David on 2024-04-23 said:
I think so, because there are emergency ladders and methods to close off all the entrances
mother on 2024-04-23 said:
Does the drain ever flood?