Dadaepo beach and Morundae
There is a high level yellow sand panic alert active for Korea. This means the Mongols have been stirring up the desert. Apparently it has nothing to do with the heavy ship building, car making, steel making, petrol refining, and aluminium smeltering that dominate all of Korea. So what better way to breath in Mongolian sand than to go to a beach and mix it with some beach sand?
My beach of choice was Dadaepo beach, which I had not been to before, and only recently became a beach due to the subway extension completion that allowed it to be beachified.
The area is also a park around a rocky coast with island views obscured by yellow sand, which may be known as Morundae or may also be known as Hwasondae. Of course it is also a military base.
Therefore, let us see some pollution views of many kinds of sands.
This being the last stop at the edge of town, there are of course many new skyscraper apartments nearby.
You can see from here that there actually is a large beach in the distance. I thought I would get a better view of it from the coastal path, but I did not. There is an enclosed area of water no more than 2 feet deep that you are permitted to wade in.
I lied, there is a slightly better beach view, but there is no beach view to be had from the main path around the hill. The light is very weird in this photo due to the pollution today.
Today's helicopter landing pad has a wind sock! This area is an actual military base, complete with guys with guns on the gate.
Apparently this was the local naval commanders office until 1915. I found this hard to believe. But the sign explains this a bit. The roof was relocated to here, it used to have walls and rooms and even a heated floor before it became a public monument in the park. I think this is probably the case with a lot of these.
A bell. The soldiers with guns are near here and there are signs warning you against filming anything, they did not seem to care about me taking this photo though.
There are some guys fishing dotted around the rocks. The sea was very calm today, not much risk of getting washed off the rocks.
There are a few tiny lighthouses around here. And rocks jutting up all over the place. I believe I am standing on an old gun installation.
Rocks plus high rises, and lots of pollution. There is no cloud in this shot, and the camera cleans it up a bit compared to the naked eye.
Final shot of a rocky and sandy day.
Tonight I might go up another hill and enjoy a polluted sunset view.
Gamcheon culture village
There is no cloud in any of these photos. It is all pollution. I was only sure when I stared up and could see jet contrails through the pollution at sunset. I can feel it in my eyes and nostril hairs!
Despite the pollution, I decided to go up the hill to the number one thing to see in all of Busan, Gamcheon culture village. If you type Busan into google image search, this is what you will see.
I had been once before, in pouring rain early in the morning. Today I went in terrible pollution very late in the afternoon, after nearly everything was closed. So I have still never been there when things are generally open. Despite that, you do need to line up for the photo spots.
There are a lot of characters and cat statues and paintings of goofy things around here. I would say it is all Studio Ghibli inspired, but that might be offensive to the locals.
Good views in every direction. There are a lot of galleries and fancy gift shops. A lot are cat themed.
Here are people lined up for the shot sitting with the cartoon characters. The last time I was here in the rain, there was no line.
The view everyone gets excited for. It is much the same as many other views in Busan only they painted the houses with ridiculous colours.
Tribute murals of girly men such as these two are also prominent features all around Gamcheon. There was a line, but I snapped my shot during a changeover while the next group were adjusting their makeup before standing in front of this painting of boys with makeup. They are boys aren't they?
And for dinner, poor persons steak night. It might have been horse. With kidney beans and macaroni. The bonus corn based grool was nice.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, but it might not involve a mountain! I am weighing up a smaller mountain hike or a long hike around a reservoir.
Hiking around Hoedong Suwonji
If you enjoy pictures of lakes you will enjoy today's presentation.
If you enjoy pollution, strap in for a lot of it.
And if you like both together, you may need to take this in small doses to contain your excitement.
Today I went to Hoedong Suwonji, I suspect Suwonji means reservoir.
I have walked around large lakes before, and they are best appreciated in autumn. Indeed I suspect Hoedong Suwonji would be spectacular on a clear autumn day, but because today is neither clear nor autumn, I can only declare it my fourth best long hike around a lake. It sits behind Lake Okutama near Tokyo, the west lake of Hangzhou in China and Sun Moon lake in Taiwan.
As for how long, about 5.5 hours, 33k steps and 23km. The ratio of steps and time to km are different to my other hikes as it was mostly flat, so faster and bigger steps. Also less calories burnt than mountain hikes.
OK, too many pics as always, lets go.
As always, this passed the old persons exercise area. There was lot of gentrification of this drain going on, bike paths being constructed on both sides etc.
That is not actually the main dam, strangely I could not get a shot of the main dam, the path veered up into the hills behind trees before there was a clear view.
Now for a horrible development. 100+ of these fools have awarded themselves a blue sash and are slow walking around the path talking loudly. This is really obnoxious behaviour. Nothing good ever happens when sashes are involved, hens nights, beauty (rape) pageants, and now this. My tip to improve planet earth, ban sashes.
OK, here is the lake, it will be our constant companion for the next 40 or so photos. I guess you can kind of see the dam in this one.
Looking the other way, and that is by no means the entire lake, it curves around a few times and is much bigger than it at first appears.
This is what most of the path looks like. There are a few shortcuts that I did not take. Unfortunately I passed the blue sash brigade on one of their many breaks, then they took a shortcut and got in front of me again.
This is an offshoot bit of the lake. The pollution does not look so bad from this side, but just wait.
There are a few spots where a road meets the lake, some with bus stops. Most spots have a few cafes and restaurants, but no convenience stores to buy simple water or snacks suitable for hiking, so stock up before you start (I did).
The next small section was the special red mud for bare footers looking to re-ground themselves spiritually or some such nonsense.
There is a bypass for this bit, and maybe if you are leaving your shoes on (which of course I did), you are supposed to bypass it, but I insisted on doing the whole damn lake!
Look! A human sizer. Such a thing would never fly in the west any more, it would be called a public fat shamer.
It was however time to now head up a steep hill. There is no way to bypass this, so it is not all flat fun and games.
View #1 from the top of the small mountain. Check the pollution! The AQI reading was over 400 according to the warnings on my phone, which is 'extremely unhealthy'. I think this is the direction from where I had come.
View #2. There is a tiny bit of actual cloud today, but you can clearly see here pollution vs cloud. The wisp of real cloud is at the top.
The cliff on the right here is why the path went up over the small mountain with the pollution view.
Like I mentioned, in all those buildings, no convenience store. I feel as though one would make a killing here. Also a lot of the photos today have weird colours, which is because of the terrible pollution, apparently still courtesy of Mongolia.
This is the one shortcut I did take, this little bridge over a tentacle of water off the side of the lake.
This bridge is the end point of the day for nearly everyone, after this point I had about half the journey to go but saw maybe 3 other people on the way back.
As a reminder, this is what the path looks like for most of the journey, hence you can make quick progress.
On the journey back, some of the path was a forestry truck trail, and it snaked up the hill at times, giving a slightly higher vantage point.
It was about a kilometre along a thankfully not very busy road before I rejoined the drain you saw at the start.
Another day of way too many photos of the same damn (dam) thing.
Buldak in Seomyeon
Last night in Busan. 45k step day. Better go back to Seomyeon.
If I ever come here again I would like to stay in Seomyeon, it has all the best places to eat. Tonight I ate in a place I have eaten at twice before, but I had something different because it is a fancy food court with many choices.
Buldak is a notorious flavour of instant noodles. Notorious for being too spicy to eat or something. I do not believe this to be true at all, although according to wikipedia 'It is considered one of the spiciest instant noodles available in the Korean market, with the original packet having 4,404 Scoville units'.
Of course the instant noodles flavour is based on an actual dish, which is a delicious bowl of boneless chicken on rice.
The waitress did the usual too spicy song and dance routine but I just kept giving a thumbs up to her warnings until she agreed. It was delicious, but nothing I would consider ridiculous.
Anyway, tomorrow I go back to Seoul, the full length of the country on the train. It takes less than 3 hours.
Late afternoon blue hour. The air quality index is still in the 300's but it does not look too bad in this photo. They have AQI readers and LED signs on street corners and in subways. In the subway it is about 100.
This line of orange tents are all street food stalls. They stay open all winter when they seal them up and you all smoke and breath charcoal smoke and each others lung excretions together. That was a fun sentence.
Ahhh, this is the place with the great food court, I remembered it from previous visits. I knew once I saw it that my dinner would come from here.
There are a few food levels, my choice is the one with the fake food trucks. The formal dining level is of course off limits to the likes of me.
A shabu shabu train. Like a sushi train except you take the hot pot ingredients off the train. So much plastic!
All that was left to do was a few more shots of neon. Like I said, Seomyeon seems like the place to be.
I cannot quite figure out what was going on inside Fantasia, they have an indoor merry go round and a limited edition zero calorie soft drink. And yet they have crowd control. I suspect it is just somewhere to pay to go and take your photo?
And a vertical one for my final one. A lot of the streets around here are very reminiscent of Japanese neon streets, lots of Japanese food places too.
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adriana on 2024-04-18 said:
Like Japanese streets they also have lots of powerline.
Busan to Seoul on the KTX
Now I am back in Seoul. I will be here for 7 nights. It will be my final stop on this holiday.
I am staying in a very well located hotel in Myeongdong, the same one I stayed at when I was here in 2022. It is very far from where I was staying on the other side of the river at the start of this journey.
Getting all the way from one end of Korea to the other on the bullet train is really fast and easy. 2.5 hours, and even then it seemed to spend more time stopped at stations than actually moving.
It may be only a short trip, but most people feel the need to consume a 4 course meal onboard. With enough plastic to make their own train. Can you really not go 2 hours without eating an entire formal meal?
Once I arrived at my hotel, they had an entire gallery wall full of signs about their bed bug defence measures. This bed bug thing is the new hot topic. Korean news has outbreak maps, which almost always cuts to a shot of an Air France plane landing at the airport.
Before heading to the train in Busan, it was time to do an early morning hardware market lap. There are markets for everything in and around Nanpo.
I decided to examine some of the movie related hand prints in BIFF (Busan International Film Festival) square. I thought they would be all Korean, but no, this one is Ennio Morricone, the recently dead greatest of all time! He was here a long time ago as his hand print still says Pusan, before they updated the romanization to reflect how it is actually pronounced instead of how an archaeologist wrote it down when he heard it once 3rd hand from a Chinaman in 1855. I am allowed to say Chinaman because I am describing someone from a period where that term was not offensive.
I took this photo as I arrived 7 days ago, so why not take it as I leave. Since then I have been up that hill behind the buildings here. When I get bored I can do a forensic analysis of what has changed in a week.
It also has a huge viewing deck area, but there is still no view, just a huge empty construction site that has been there for many years now. Also, still lots of pollution.
The inside of my train for today. It filled up. I am travelling poor person class today as the difference in fare for the longer journey was too much for my tightassedness to cope with.
And now, sadly... the final hotel shots. This is a modern style room, the hotel is quite new. They gave me a welcome pack with some snacks. All have already been consumed.
The room is so new, that it has only a shower, no bath. What if I need to take a bath? I missed my chance... I missed my chance.....
Myeongdong and Cheonggyecheon stream
If you have suffered through my previous visits to this side of Seoul, then you have suffered through the photos of the stream. Apparently it is called Cheonggyecheon, which really rolls off the tongue. I am sure I will go back another night to see it in its full glory after dark, but tonight was a preview at dusk.
As for Myeongdong, which is the main tourist shopping area, it has now very much returned to it's pre covid levels of business. Perhaps even more so. When I first came back here after covid lockdowns in the first half of 2022, it was a real ghost town, with most of the stores being empty. Now they are all full, and there are more street stalls than ever. So that was annoying, I preferred it when it all existed just for me rather than for everyone else.
First of 3 photos of busy. Most of these places are not really properly open yet, the street stalls really only get going once it gets dark.
New ridiculous shops have sprung up everywhere, such as the (reads sign...) wiggle wiggle.zip flagship store. I have no idea what goes on inside.
Daiso is not just an underground store wherever the real estate is cheapest in Korea, it is a (counts...) 11 level junk store. Apparently it was recently sold by its Japanese owner to a new Korean owner in Korea only, as hatred of Japan (comfort girls, Dokdo islands) had halved their sales. Also, first sighting of the tower, there will be more tower on another day too.
The cathedral is still there. It is the landmark to get your bearings in Myeongdong. Also underneath are some good shops and toilets.
After consuming all the free snacks my room came with, I decided it was time for a healthy dinner. Some sort of chicken rice salad poke bowl. Not bad.
Coming up from the stream and it was time for me and 30 other guys to take a pervy photo of girls doing yoga. Actually a few guys snuck into the yoga lineup too. I plan to start wearing yoga pants exclusively.
And this leads to the main protest street in all of Korea. Generally closed off every single weekend for various protests with at least 100k people. There are many permanent protests for weird reasons set up all the way along, but this is the first time I saw memorial altar for covid vaccine victims. The memorial altar is a tent.
I am back early tonight as I must get up early tomorrow to go a long way to a long hike.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2024-04-19 said:
I see you have upgraded the drain to call it a stream now. There seems to be a guy in a sark t shirt with a beard following you in the crowded streets. In the 2nd photo he is looking at you and wearing a backpack as a disguise haha.
mother on 2024-04-19 said:
Bet you can't remember the last time you had a bath.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2024-04-17 said:
我觉得色彩缤纷的房子很漂亮。
jenny on 2024-04-17 said:
2nd to last photo's foreground looks like a painting - beautiful!