Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
Today I went to a location that is generally on everyone's top 10 things to see or do in Korea.
It is quite a long way from my hotel, with a train change. I missed my change so got off a station later and walked back, and that was probably as interesting as the temple!
Strangely, a little old lady pushed me on the train, multiple times. She was weak and feeble, I thought she was trying to hang onto me at first, but I was standing and there were many spare seats, then she ranted a bit and some other Korean women gave her a talking to. I did not fall for the trap and backhand her across the face and end up arrested and on Korean tabloid TV (it happens).
The temple area is in a new ghost town, full of malls and a theme park. A lot of temples seem to have a theme park, refer to my Gyeongju visit from a few days ago. The actual temple area is tour bus horror, and way too many people.
It is a long way to go for maybe 30 minutes of temple, so for that reason, I declare this to be the most overrated temple in Korea. I expect the temple board of directors to start trying to find ways to discredit my opinion.
Like I mentioned, I transferred one stop late at Dongnae and walked back one stop. Which went along this underground park. I am literally under the station. I thought this was great.
The nearby mega church was indeed mega. The leader is in there now (it is Sunday morning) receiving donations from idiots who are awaiting transport off the face of the earth when the rapture arrives. On this occasion, the actual church building transforms into a space ship (look at it, you know I am right).
So in summary today I have offended the leaders of the Buddhist temple and a mega church.
The drain near the church was adorned with yellow flowers. How often do you get to say adorned in your life?
This is Osiria station, where I got off to walk to the temple. It is in the middle of nowhere and a new city area is being built around it. The train to here while technically part of the metro, is actually the commuter line to Ulsan. It only runs about once every 20 minutes.
Somehow I ended up under the road in a home-wares mega mall. More mega malls to come. This place was all mega malls for the temple goers.
Approaching the temple and there are millions of people (possible exaggeration) but it was really slow going.
The bridge is nice too. There were numerous statues you are supposed to touch to ensure you have a male baby. And the bridge is where you can drown unwanted female babies. This is not longer really a thing in Korea, because no one has any babies.
CONFIDENTLY INCORRECT. This sign really sums up what I think about this place. It is marketed really really well, but is really just a tourist trap.
I hoped to walk around the coast, but you cannot. This is as far as I could get. There was a loudspeaker announcement in every language that a free lunch of instant Korean noodles was now being served. This caused a stampede. A stampede for instant noodles.
Technically this is part of the pay car park that is not affiliated with the Temple. There seems to be some kind of dispute about that.
On my way back, I passed a different part of the theme park. It might be a separate thing entirely. This one has a luge track and a zip line. You take the chair lifts back to the top. Both activities seem potentially holiday / life ending, so I continued on.
The mega mall I passed earlier is still in the process of opening in stages. Much of it is the Lotte outlet mall, so semi outdoor like a DFO in Australia. Finding a toilet that was actually open was challenging!
And for my final photo today, here is the city under construction nearby. I suspect no one lives there yet.
Busan station area and Choryang
Don't call me Shirley.
If you like pictures of city buildings shot from above, you will like Busan. You will probably be sick of it by the time I leave on Friday. But for now, strap in for more of the same.
I headed back to the main Busan station area and followed an outdoor drain up a hill. This proved fruitful as the top of the hill of course, had a great view. Everywhere has a great view.
There were also temples. There were also paths up the small mountains behind the buildings, but I did not venture up as it was getting dark and I did not want to get too sweaty before dinner.
Then there was just enough time to wander down through peoples living rooms and end up having the first bibimbap of this trip.
Lets follow this stream/sewer and see where it goes. You are no longer allowed to go down there and walk at water level. I think you could last time I was here.
I kept going until I got to the temple at the top. There was no one around at all. Probably because there are no blossoms.
The right view. You can see the Busan tower on the extreme right edge of this picture, which is the area where my hotel is at.
Going down, and it seems like I am trespassing. I am sure there were many sets of eyes on me at all times. There are also a lot of cameras. The cameras surely see into peoples houses.
Last view shot for today. The big building on the left is a high school. Not the shiny towers, the concrete monolith on the extreme left.
Now to head back down the same stream / sewer. You saw it earlier on the way up, here it is on the way down.
Next I went along Texas street, which I showed the other night. Turns out it is more like Filipino street and is mainly brothels. I saw some 'girls' waiting to start their shift hanging around. People were not too amused at me pointing my camera at them.
Time to run away from the mob bosses and head into a place where they cannot get me. Busan station. They spent a fortune deciding on their city slogan.
And finally, first bibimbap of the trip. No meat. Flavourless until I added a lot of Gochujang.
It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow. My day on / day off hiking schedule might be blown!
Shinsegae Centum City
First day of rain.
It took its time getting here and at first I was annoyed that it was not raining because I had struggled mentally to come to terms with not climbing up anything today. But eventually, rain it did, and it is still raining now. It should stop late tonight and then I will make up for it all with an extra long hike tomorrow. Well that is the plan anyway.
The further challenge, generally the rain day equals museum / castle / gallery day, but like all of Asia, these places are all closed on Monday. This left only the mall. Or to be specific, the largest department store in the world, Shinsegae Centum City.
I had actually been there before but I spent more time in it today. When I discovered there was a golf driving range on the roof I decided I really wanted to do that in the rain, but when I managed to get up to reception via a somewhat hidden lift it seemed to be members only and my mere presence caused an audible gasp from the 3 identical AI robot looking human receptionists as the lift door opened. So I blew them all kisses, gave them the finger, took a bow and headed back down.
I got up early to walk around before the rain arrived. First stop, down at the docks to check out the fish market. It is extensive.
There are actually little eating spots all the way along here, and some people enjoy fish guts compressed into blocks and shoved onto sticks for breakfast. It is this area that gets all the weekend tour package groups, many of whom may be Japanese as I think they come by ferry. Today however, very quiet.
An example of a film gallery along this street. Busan has the big international film festival, literally called BIFF.
I decided to climb up the Busan tower area and look for the rain that was not here yet. The view from up here is weak compared to the views from up the hills on my previous 2 evening walks.
Just another nice street in Nanpo, drops of rain were starting to fall, time to head underground and get the subway to the mega department store experience extravaganza.
There are 2 department stores connected underground. Shinsegae is the main event but their major competitor in Lotte has decided to build a Trevi plaza to lure customers away from the nearby attraction that advertises heavily as worlds largest.
I headed outside to see if it was raining properly yet. Still no. That is a Trump housing development. There are hundreds of these across Korea. A quick google reveals it is an ongoing partnership between South Korea's favourite USA president and Daewoo.
You can go into the laser room and ruin your eyesight / camera sensor by looking directly into laser beams.
The Shinsegae seems to be a department store surrounded by malls. This made it hard for me to measure the exact square footage to ratify their claim of worlds largest.
Instead I could go ice skating. The store rink seems about as popular as all other department store ice skating rinks I have encountered on my travels, even though South Korea has some very famous short course speed skaters. Maybe the Zamboni is out of action because it gassed people like the one in Adelaide?
I headed up to the dinosaur themed roof garden, and stood around in the rain. I had the roof to myself.
And after I got suitably wet and subsequently turned away from the golf driving range, I descended down into basement level 3 and perused the food court offerings before choosing a gourmet sandwich from one of the ten or so competing bakeries.
I suspect it will still be raining later, underground subway tunnel walking night?
Nampo in the rain
Rain update: still is.
Local Lotte department store update: closed today only - no idea why.
I waited around a bit later than normal for the rain to stop, but it did not. This meant it was first time to descend down into the subway shopping streets and head underground to the nearby Lotte department store, pictured a couple of days ago. It was shut! There were signs up all over the doors saying it was closed today only. The supermarket was still open but the food courts, restaurants and most importantly of all the rainy roof garden were all closed. I do not think this is a regular Monday thing, I suspect it was closed for stocktake or something like that, or maybe they are filming a Korean zombie movie in the store, I will never know.
So then I had to go out in the rain. It was starting to subside, and as I type this I think it is almost over. I have to be really careful about not getting my camera wet, but still felt obliged to stand in the traffic and take photos of light reflections on wet streets.
And then I spotted a place I have eaten at before, one of my favourite types of food, Sapporo style soup curry!
I have walked the entire length of this underground pedestrian mall before. It strangely has entire sections selling giant digital LED wall clocks. Tonight I decided to just photograph a section with nothing at all to see.
After discovering my planned dinner location at the Lotte department store was closed, I had to head out into the rain. Very quiet on a rainy Monday night.
Sapporo soup curry, with 17 kinds of vegetables (it is what the menu said). I got the pork option. Delicious. I am not sure I counted 17 different vegetables, maybe 15. Should I complain?
OK, I am wet enough. Time to head back to the hotel.
I am confident it will stop raining shortly and it will be good weather for a long hiking day tomorrow. I plan to do a hike I have done previuosly, in reverse.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2024-04-16 said:
I do indeed despise umbrellas
mother on 2024-04-15 said:
You would have been the only one out without an umbrella I'm guessing.
mother on 2024-04-15 said:
nice shops and roof gardens.
Geumjeong fortress hike
First of all, I know why all the Germans are here. They are all on package tours that leave on cruise ships from here. This involves charter jets from Germany. A really strange concept but quite popular in Europe. My hike today started from Beomeosa temple and there were approximately 17 tour buses, all with Germans, all wearing colour coordinated hats based on the bus they were on, colour coordinated name tags with a bus number. The highest I saw was 17 and they marched in groups like highly trained soldiers. I could do some really obvious joke here. The person holding the follow me sign for each group had 'Celebrity Cruises' written on the shirt and sign.
The average tour bus holds 40 people, so that is 680 Germans, all arriving at once to wander around a temple. Ridiculous.
Anyway, today's hike is the big fortress wall that runs along the western edge of Busan, known as Geumjeong, or even Geumjeongsanseong. I have done this hike twice before, from South to North ending at the temple, today I went to the temple and hiked north to south, this is easier as you start higher.
Last time I missed a lot of the wall by following signs too closely which direct you to the main path, the best plan is to go along the parallel path for much better views and much more wall.
Way too many photos so lets go.
The rain is gone. The drains are raging. Would I have to cross some raging streams today? Time will tell.
The road up to Beomeosa temple is nice. It is not quite how I remember it coming down. Today's stats were 14km, 28k steps, 5 hours. But that is not quite the full picture as it is probably 5k steps from the station to the temple to start the hike, and a few more at the other end to get back to the station.
After walking uphill along the road for a while I joined a parallel path along the road to the temple, this is more what I remember from my previous visits.
The temple here is extensive and quite nice. The good thing is with the Germans moving in regimented groups, you can actually avoid them easily.
And one more. Normally by the time I get to here I am exhausted as it is the end of my day, today it is the start.
Despite the rain, no raging torrent of water. Lots of rocks and these ones look mossy, but the actual ones you walk up were fine. I am standing on a little bridge to take this photo.
After about 20 minutes the path veers away from the rocks. It is here that I wanted to turn right and go a different way up to the main peak, but that way is now removed from the maps. That part of the forest is closed for natural rejuvenation, for 20 years. I think last time I accidentally went through it on the way down and ended up climbing over a sea of boulders to get back on the permitted path.
So popular, that there are public toilets along the journey. The path crosses roads a couple of times at different points where you can get a bus too.
This is the North gate. I made a turn up to the highest point here, which I would then have to double back from due to the just mentioned forest rejuvenation.
The wall up to the highest peak of the day, Godangbong, which is the highest point within Busan city limits. Apparently this is also the second most popular national park in the country after Bukhansan in Seoul. A lof of strangely factual information today.
The official hike map does not send you up to this peak, either on the local signs or on alltrails if you use that app. It will add about 50 minutes onto your day to go up and back.
I thought the cloud would disappear, it stayed around this peak all day. Photos would be better with sparse or no cloud.
Peak marker. Proof I was there. Well I guess I could have given my camera to someone else to go up and back.
I am standing with my back to the spiral staircase down that goes to the closed off bit of the forest.
City below. I wish it was clearer. Today was cloud rather than pollution. It never rained and was quite warm and humid.
There are people up there. Me next! Turns out they were ABK's (American born Koreans), I could hear them talking. Looked like a church group.
The fourth watchtower. I walked... all along the watchtower. I bet if I re-read my last 2 visits to here I typed the same thing both times.
There is a mixture of restored and un-restored parts of the wall. Much of it was last built in the 1500's to repel the Japanese.
There is this service road up to the cable car station. There are ways to avoid almost all of it, which I did. Still it is a nice area with trees with actual leaves.
Around the cable car station there is a cafe and a restaurant. Hard to fit into one shot. I will NOT be taking the cable car down, I knew the views on the way down were great.
THE STANCE. The veins in my leg look concerning. Load the full size one and zoom in at your own risk.
The exit (normally entrance) to this trail is a large park, full of badminton courts and old people doing old people things.
Lotte Mall Gwangbok
I think the local Lotte mall was closed yesterday for tax filing day. April 15 is tax day in the USA, maybe Korea is the same? That is the best my detective skills have come up with.
So to make sure they have reopened as promised, this evening I slowly wandered up the end of the street to find out, and yes it was open, and yes they have the best roof garden of any department store I am aware of anywhere in the world.
Unfortunately, after that I think I got profiled, the restaurant floor restaurants all had last order 8pm signs, and at 7pm they told me sorry, closed. Then I saw 2 places that turned me away admit other people who were not foreigner groups of one. So that was annoying. As a result I ended up with a dinner I did not want.
Now for the roof garden shots. It really is a great roof garden. For some reason there are less and less of these on the top of big stores, a lot of them are now closed off permanently, presumably because people jump?
Not only was this restaurant my 3rd pick, the meal I wanted was sold out (hot soba with deep fried vegetables). Instead I got a huge amount of very dark coloured cold soba and a pork schnitzel. Another case of find the flavour (I failed). I do not mind soba, but prefer it hot, the whole dunk it in the cold broth from about 2 metres above the table and then get it in your mouth without splashing everything in a 3 metre radius is unnecessary fanfare.
I should have gone to the basement, that was still open and there were many good places to eat. It seems I am not good enough for the 10th floor restaurants, I am forever just a basement dweller.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, but I think there will be a lot of walking, I have a plan already.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2024-04-16 said:
Nice roof garden with fabulous view, but the actual garden I don't think is the number one in the whole world - Think Osaka. You can lift your broth bowl up when you are eating cold soba so won't spill it every where.
David on 2024-04-16 said:
I presume the rocks are glacial from the last ice age
adriana on 2024-04-16 said:
Best stance yet and very scenic hike, but why does Korea have sooo many rocks?
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2024-04-14 said:
Still got the old hillside houses then.
David on 2024-04-14 said:
Golden pig, for wealth
jenny on 2024-04-14 said:
Nice coastline by the temple, but what's with all the pig statues?