Gyeongju Namsan mountain
Today I went to the Gyeongju Namsan mountain. Everywhere has a Namsan mountain so I have to be specific.
As mentioned I was not sure if this would be a short or a long hike. I was enjoying myself so much I made sure it was a long hike, so now, the stats.
5 hours and 59 minutes
31k steps
1078m ascent
1390 calories burned
2.7L of sweat loss
etc.
Now for some info about the actual place. Apparently it was the most sacred place of the Silla kingdom. There is a well somewhere where the actual kingdom was formed. Exactly how a kingdom can be formed in a specific spot I do not know, maybe they agreed to stop fighting there?
The place has so many historic relics that the entire mountain range is a UNESCO world heritage site, and is described as an outdoor museum.
Who am I to argue?
Also important news! Gyeongju has preemptively lodged an application to make next years APEC meeting a UNESCO heritage meeting.
Now for way too many photos.
The path up to the start of the hike goes past a hermitage, but they had signs up asking me to not go in, so I did not. The stream was nice though.
I thought this might be a wild unmarked hike. I could not be more wrong. Signs everywhere. Although for most of the day, no other hikers, until an entire school group passed me on the way down.
There are these signs everywhere explaining that you are standing on something ancient. Most of the time I could not figure out what, it just looked like dirt to me!
Here is summit number one of 2, I would actually come back almost to the top of it later. My path today was a big figure 8, so up to here, down, up to the next peak, down, back up to this peak, then down again. A lot of up and down.
And now some ancient relics from between 600 and 800 AD. This is a 3 storey pagoda. They are not very big storeys.
And now for the headless Buddha. The sign mentioned the head was missing and they do not know when it went missing, so it seems unlikely I can get the blame. Note that the whole thing is carved out of a single rock.
Now to start the climb up to the second peak, obviously there is a temple, there was also a public toilet.
Eventually I rejoined another driveway of sorts. It was near here that an entire school group passed me.
I thought that since I passed 100 or so grave sites, I should post a photo of a grave. So here is one. Most of them do not have the concrete markers.
And as threatened, I once again managed to exit a hike in the middle of farmland.
I will not be going far tonight, but I am very hungry!
Gyeongju tombs and tourist area
Tomorrow I am going to Busan. Yes, yes.. on the train. I have not seen that movie and I will not watch it. If you tell anyone you are going to Busan they will ask if you are going on the train to Busan.
For my final evening in Gyeonju I decided to re-take in the tourist cafe / eating area and re-take in the amazing tomb mounds during blue hour, which made for a couple of cool photos.
The tourist area seemed to have more stuff open than Tuesday, I actually think a lot of places open only on weekends. I saw a couple of people playing dress ups but I have read that everyone does, so again, that is probably a weekend thing.
Therefore it is probably best I clear out tomorrow morning before I have to put on a Hanbok.
OK, I found the prime suspect for the place that probably stole the head of the Buddha I photographed earlier.
On my way back to the tourist area, I walked through a traditional street that has not been turned into cafes yet, a rare thing indeed.
These appear to be tiny hotel rooms. Also you can get on the roof easily. I was tempted. That is a washing machine sitting there outside.
Now for my dinner. It looked better in pictures. A noodle soup with a galbi (beef rib) and bonus bulgogi. Pretty flavourless like a lot of Korean food.
Now for the two bonus mound shots. This one came out great. Handheld! They have a lot of spotlights.
And for the final pic of Gyeongju other than the journey to the train tomorrow morning, more funeral mounds. Also a handheld shot.
Gyeongju to Busan on the KTX
For the next 7 nights I will be in Busan. My third visit here. I am staying in the same hotel as last time.
Getting here was a bus, a bullet train and then a subway.
The bus to Gyeongju station (formerly SinGyeongju station) left from right outside a traditional Korean market. Today is market day, presumably to prepare for the influx of tourists on the weekend. Every square foot of footpath and some of the road was taken up by people selling various vegetables, fresh meat and fish. Just set out on blankets. So I was trying to get to the road where the bus stop is, leaned my bag against a pole, and the stupid thing fell over, into fish. My bag is useless and falls over a lot. My previous good bag was great and never fell over, but the airport baggage tug ran it over and smashed the telescopic handle inside the case. I hunted for the same one to replace it to no avail. I only buy 2 wheel bags because I rip the wheels off 4 wheel ones almost immediately!
Anyway, I picked my fishy bag up off the fish, and a crowd of old women continued to bargain for the fish my bag fell on without too much concern.
After arriving in Busan, which was only 40 minutes away on the bullet train, it was time to go to the laundromat. I went to the same one as my last visit. This is a good way to kill time on 'moving day' when I arrive in cities too early to check in.
Once I finished my laundry I found the familiar Stanford hotel, not Stamford, Stanford. The hotel named after a University, not the hotel named after the hotel. Anyway, when I was last here 2 years ago, they had a lobby cat, and a sign warning you that in the dark he might playfully attack you, please do not be startled. Well his name is Nero, and despite spending his days out the front of the hotel in a busy street, he still lives on!
Here is the inside of the Gyeongju station, which is 20 minutes on a highway bus outside of Gyeongju. There are more shops than pictured, it is a big modern station.
I thought Gyeongju was famous for the upcoming APEC summit and historic tombs, but also cheese sandwiches. And when they say cheese, it is an entire block of cheese inside 2 bits of cheap white bread. Weird.
The view out the front has a new ghost town under construction. I do not think anyone lives here yet.
Now for some platform shots while I wait for my train. The station is between 2 mountains. Tunnels at each end of the platform.
I purchased a first class ticket again for the short journey. The inside of this carriage is not red like the last one. I prefer red.
Wash Enjoy 24 has not let me down on my 2 visits two years apart. You can see my fishy bag here leaned against something so it does not fall over.
OK, take a deep breath, because here they come, the hotel shots. A good bed, a good desk, an extra seat and little table.
And my bathroom with space toilet and full sized towels, the shower here drains into the bath, not across the floor. Many Korean hotels only give you bath mat sized towels, a bit like you might find at a weird gay sauna. I was happy with this place last time so decided to stick with what I know.
And view number 2, which incorporates the Busan tower. Most Korean cities have one of these towers.
I have no idea where I am going tonight yet, they let me check in a bit early so I have time to research a destination.
From Nanpo to Seomyeon
Busan is big enough to have multiple city centres. I am staying in the more touristy fishing port area of Nanpo. On the map, it does not look too far the the neon lit youth area of Seomyeon. Of course I have been to both areas before, but this evening I decided to walk. It was further than I thought. Probably 10km apart.
My path followed the subway line, which is useful for the bathrooms at every station and many of them are also joined together by underground shopping streets. I can remember the last time I was here I walked the full length of the underground street network up and back one night while it was raining. Who knows, that might happen again on Tuesday, the only day of rain on the forecast.
As for the election results, I am now firmly in the red right wing part of Korea, it seems it is almost a complete Northwest (blue) vs Southeast (red) divide of the lower house seats. But do not be fooled, both sides love Donald Trump, and much of the election is a competition to see who can demonstrate they are more Trump like! This is also the case in Taiwan. Very strange.
Starting in Nanpo, I headed down to the docks to inspect the catch. I thought it was a public area, it was not. I walked quite a distance along the wharf getting strange looks from smoking fishermen before I realised I was trapped and would have to double back while they laughed at me.
Nearby is the giant Lotte department store. It is small compared to some in other parts of the city, but still quite large as you can see. At some point I am sure I will head up to the roof garden.
This hotel actually came up in my searches when I was booking my accommodation here. If only I knew it looked like this, I would be enjoying its ridiculousness from within right now.
The Busan station was not even half way to my destination. For whatever reason I thought it was only one more stop to the main area, very wrong.
Time to go enjoy some neon. There is a lot of neon around here, and a huge number of suitable places for dinner, I am sure I will be back a couple more times.. although I will take the subway on future visits.
I was really starving by now, so Japanese ramen it was, with extra green onions. Finally something with a bit of flavour! Very good quality ramen.
And inside the subway - a plastic forest.
Yeah yeah yeah, tomorrow is a hiking day, probably not an overly long hike, I want to do one I have not done previously before I get into repeats.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2024-04-13 said:
Well there are even more shops just over the road at Nanpo
adriana on 2024-04-12 said:
Long way to the shops....
jenny on 2024-04-12 said:
Filthy train. Nice hotel room
Seunghaksan from Dong-a University
Why have I never been here before?
Today I went to a fairly short hike that has absolutely the greatest views of Busan, in every direction. It was only about 3 hours, and just under 10km. Not even 20k steps. I knew it would be short.
To get to the start of the trail I boarded the subway out the front of my hotel and got off at Hadan. I think the subway has recently been extended to get to here, so that might be why I have not visited previously.
The course started at the nearby Dong-A University, and ends at Daeti station.
It is all about the view, views all day. Also, a whole heap of university students out for a social activity as you shall see. So with out further ado, onto the view.
Oh, just realised, holiday is half over already. That was fast.
This hike starts on the outskirts of Busan. If you are wondering what the outskirts of a big Asian city look like, this is it. High rises all the way to the very edge.
The university is on the edge of the mountain. The streets leading up to it are kind of meant to be pedestrian streets
This low down view is looking away from Busan, but still more high rises, and a nearby eco island bird sanctuary.
Heres 2 dudes contemplating if their university studies are too stressful and if they should end it all.
This is a just a small portion of the university social group who have been getting in my way up until this point. Impressively they have an ice cream station on the summit, which means somebody carried up 100 ice creams. They offered me an ice cream but I declined.
Eventually I will get to that observatory, but first I will head down to the bald patch on the ridge.
The bald spot on the ridge has a manicured garden area for picnics. There is an easy way up to here which even mountain bikers ride up.
The valley down from here is full of blossom trees, however it seems we are past peak blossom here in Busan. Hence the trees are also greener as leaves have appeared.
This is one of the other paths down, but I shall not be taking it, I will go up again, on the loneliest part of today's hike, but there were always still a few other people.
That is the ridge I had come along, you can see the bald spot, later you will also get to see my bald spot.
Oh wow, unexpected amazing view approaches. I thought maybe I was done with the views for today, how wrong I was.
And this is the view around to the left from 3 photos prior which I declared to be the best view bar none.
And today I did not exit via farmland, I exited the hike into high rise apartments. So that was something a bit different.
That is enough photos for now.
Busan Democracy Park
Today is a day with too much view.
It was time for me to go out and wander around until I get hungry enough for dinner when I noticed the clearest skies I have ever seen in Korea. This meant I would run up a hill and find a view.
The view I found is one I have found before, but it is an excellent view.
Near the view, there were also blossoms. A lot of bright pink blossoms, big ones. OK I am really over blossom talk.
After enjoying the view it was time to head back through the complex hillside structures that are mainly houses and then through the just as complex markets which were still open, and then negotiate pig foot alley before I found some beef.
The touristy bits of Nanpo start right over the road from my hotel. The umbrellas are still the same from years ago.
This apparently is the democracy monument. An indoor outdoor spiral ramp to walk around it 3 times and observe its magnificence.
Here is the view from the top of the spiral ramp for the democracy monument. I thought about climbing the monument itself, but then thought better of it.
More blossoms. It would have been a lot better an hour earlier with the sun still on them, but there were still a lot of people posing.
There are always more hills and monuments in Busan. The next hill over has a memorial of some kind, further research required.
Now to descend with a few more view shots, much like the blossoms, these would be better if there was still some sun.
The roads here are generally, staircases, although there is an actual road that full size buses can wind their way up the cliff on.
Apparently this is pig foot alley, even though it is much more like a street than the alley in the previous shot.
And finally... tiny steak dinner. A bit of a rip off, more like half a meal!
Currently I have no plan for tomorrow.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2024-04-13 said:
As far as I can tell, Korea has discovered toilets and running water
mother on 2024-04-13 said:
Those old staircase houses must be worth a fortune these days with their great views. I'm wondering if Busan still smell of sewerage everywhere?
adriana on 2024-04-13 said:
Yes great views. Busan has certainly developed since I was there. Eco island looks like it might be rather flood prone if it is a river delta.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2024-04-11 said:
enjoy the train trip tomorrow.
David on 2024-04-11 said:
Anything temple related is in Chinese characters.
I think Korean students are actually expected to learn them, but generally do not.
adriana on 2024-04-11 said:
Very scenic today. I notice that the summit markers are in Chinese characters. Does that mean that they are old I wonder?