Daegu to Gyeongju on the KTX
Now I am in Gyeongju. I have not been here before. Apparently it was the ancient capital of the ancient Silla kingdom. This means it is featured on over 9000 tv shows where people cry in slow motion.
So far I have seen only a bit of that ancientness, what I have mainly seen is grey skies and grey concrete. It is not a small place, the population is 260k, and probably a lot more than that on weekends. I am not here on a weekend, and I do also think it has the whole 'mostly closed on Monday' thing going on.
Getting here from Daegu was surprisingly speedy. First of all a subway, then a bullet train first class seat, for 20 minutes, then a bus. The bus could have been a challenge but there were a lot of choices and they all roughly went to where I needed to go.
Then the real challenge started.
I could not check into my hotel until 5pm. I was in town at 1pm. They did not have anyone on the check in at all when I got there, it was all closed up. After translating some Korean signs I found out in the basement they have free bag lockers for people arriving early, the big ones were all taken, so I put my big bag on the top of the whole locker setup. There was one available for my backpack which has all my valuables. Fortunately no one stole my big bag of dirty underpants.
So then it was just a matter of wandering around aimlessly, for 4 hours. Which was surprisingly tiring. And now it is already quite late.
The inside of the Daegu station is very good, in someways there are more stores and restaurants than even the main station in Seoul. Also it is attached to the enormous department store I visited a few nights ago.
A feature inside all Korean stores and stations are these air purifying machines. Probably a COVID invention someone got rich off. Most of them are not working. Here only one out of the three pictured is still working.
Here is Gyeongju station. Now this will be confusing if you are coming here in the near future. Until recently this was called SinGyeongju station, Sin meaning 'new'. But they have since ripped the old station out of the middle of Gyeongju altogether, and renamed this one just Gyeongju station. Google does not know about this and still thinks slow trains run into the middle of Gyeongju city. They no longer do, and the city is over 20km away, hence you must take a bus. The bus is mainly on a freeway so it does not take long.
Are they funeral mounds or Tombs? Well there is a museum, so I went in to find out. Also I do not know what the difference is between a funeral mound and a tomb anyway.
Inside the museum they have recreated the inside of one of the tombs. Which is rocks, wooden structures, and a central crypt.
The streets nearby are nice, and there are busy neon areas nearby that I will photograph later. This particular street is all tourist gift shops, and mostly closed on Monday.
I do not really know what this is, it is not a door, but it looks like those giant stone tablets that try to crush you in Mario Kart.
And now the all important hotel shots. The room is large, there is a little table and chair off to my left not shown. Thet tv is the biggest tv I have ever sat in front of, and as I type this I am sitting one foot away from it. Also I would like to thank the previous guests who left their netflix account logged in, same thing happened at the previous hotel too. Oh and of course, wooden floor.
The bathroom is also huge. Separate bath. I am standing on a raised area inside the large bathroom, but the entire pictured area all floods when you take a shower, the shower does not go into the bath. At least the toilet is raised above the shower area in this one which is not always the case!
I think for dinner I will just continue to explore the local area after dark, my mindless wandering today has resulted in almost 30k steps!
Gyeongju shopping area
Tonight's outing was short, local and filled with cubes of steak.
Then my computer broke. After some stern words with it and a few unexpected blue screens of death followed by dell diagnostics telling me everything is fine, it now seems to be working again. It decided to throw a fit right as I was adjusting the brightness of the steak photo. So that probably explains why it broke then, dell hates beef.
It is very quiet here on a Monday night. Many things were shut. I kept an eye on the tombs, in case there were tomb raiders, or zombies. The worst I saw was some young girls racing around on full sized scooters, Korean girls too young to be riding them, and they were behaving like idiots screaming and weaving around. They also had bluetooth speakers mounted on them blasting some kind of chipmunk voiced k-pop.
The other thing of note, I was wandering around when a long haired middle aged Korean man asked me where I was from, so I tell him Australia, next thing he asks is, you like heavy metal music? So we chat for a while, he owns a local vinyl (record) store, despite never being outside of Korea his English was excellent. He then tells me he is very rich, the store is a hobby, and we should go out drinking and talk about heavy metal music - his shout. I tell him I do not drink, he refused to believe that an Australian is not an alcoholic, all Australians he meets are alcoholics etc.
So I either let down a genuine Korean man who just wanted to talk music, or I escaped a situation which would have ended up with me tied up naked inside a guys dungeon (burial tomb).
Here is another. There are temporary water pipes running above many of the streets and some are dug up. They must be replacing the water main. Reminds me of home where that has been going on for about 4 years now.
And finally, the cube steak dinner that crashed my computer. Note that the picture I ordered from did not come with chips, the rice was on the plate, along with vegetables. Instead I got chips and salad, and rice on the side. Still it was delicious, the steak was of a high quality and cooked in something pleasantly chilli infused.
Tomorrow may be a hiking day of sorts, I suspect the trail behind the main tourist attraction is currently cut short. I shall go and find out.
Bulkguksa Seokguram and Tohamsan
Today was the shortest hike, well in time anyway. Just over 2 hours in total, but still about 10km / 20k steps. You see it was a great quality path up and down, which made for very quick progress, especially on the way down. My destinations were 3 fold, first the most important temple for many a mile around, Bulguksa, then the Buddha hidden in a hill you cannot photograph at the Seokguram grotto (no relation to playboy mansion grotto as far as I can tell) and then finally the peak of the nearby mountain, Tohamsan.
To get to this trilogy of wonders required a bus, but once again Korea has served up an excellent bus system and Naver phone app. There were 10 route to choose from, with real time pictures on the map of where the bus was, and real time displays inside the the heated (!) bus stop of how many stops away and how many minutes until the bus comes. Just make sure you are ready, they will drive off while you are still half hanging out the bus if they think you are messing around.
Once at the temple area, and it is a total tourist zone, nothing but tourists. Local and foreign tourists. Tour groups (German and Japanese) being guided by people with loud speakers. The German thing is huge now, I see big groups of them in Melbourne too, they love to dress up in Antarctic expedition gear and block the streets in groups of 30 senior citizens.
Today was also much clearer from a pollution perspective, with a lot of blue sky, but also very very windy and a lot colder. The wind probably frightened away the pollution, but not the Germans.
Bulkguksa is about 30 minutes by bus away from down town Gyeongju. The road there is completely cherry blossom lined, and goes around theme parks, historic sites, roller coasters and a big lake. The APEC summit is also here next year so there is a lot of work going on around the convention centre areas. This is just a typical street in the Bulguksa village, more on the other stuff tomorrow, probably.
I read that to enter the temple costs $6, but today it was free. This may be because of the typhoon last year that closed the grotto for a while. More on that below. The temple grounds are quite nice of course.
The temple is much like any other temple, apparently it has a lot of significance to Buddhists, but to me it was no more or less spectacular than the 100's of others I have seen.
Now for the path to the Seokguram grotto. This was only recently opened after a typhoon caused a landslide. I had read that even while closed, real hikers had devised a way around... and I was prepared to try that, but it seems it is all repaired and now a driveway followed by new staircase.
I am assuming this is the bit that was destroyed by the landslide. I feel as though it is just a matter of time until it happens again.
Cloud was rolling in, so I got a shot of the view back towards Gyeongju from about half way up. It does not even take an hour to get to the grotto and the path is never particularly steep. Despite that, the tripadvisor review talks about near death experiences and how the path is best left to Bear Grylls. There were Junior high school kids skipping along the path and plenty of senior citizens, so some people really need to re learn how to walk 2km.
I have arrived at the grotto area. I did not know what to expect other than a stone Buddha. They have a good quality toilet.
This is it! It goes back into the hill for maybe 30 or 40 metres, and you can go in and look at 100 or so people praying in front of it, but there are numerous no photo police in there, so no photo of the UNESCO world heritage Buddha.
After a walking back along the path a bit, it was time to veer further up the mountain and start the ascent to Tohamsan. There were zero other people from this point onwards, despite that the path was still of great quality. No rock scrambling today.
I got to this sign and thought, here we go, the trail is cut. But I translated it and no, this is a sign telling you that it is illegal to consume alcohol on the summit area. OK then.
Today's helicopter landing pad. They would really struggle to land in the wind today. It was windy enough that taking photos was difficult, so no selfies or stance shot today.
I imagine you can get a view from the top of the fire spotting tower, but the thing is covered in cameras so it is probably not worth the risk of climbing for a view.
Now for the great path down. There were other ways to go down too that would make for a longer hike, but I wanted to go back down and explore the Bulkguksa village area.
Getting near the bottom, and it is graveyard time. Not as grand as the funeral mounds in town. I imagine if we had these in Australia, kids on BMX bikes would enjoy them. Interestingly, some of the tomb stones have crucifix's engraved on them, I assumed they were Buddhist graves, or maybe its like Taiwan where they like to hedge their bets?
Not to worry, I was very near a golf course. This is a boring photo except for the autonomous follow me golf buggies. Everyone had one, it literally follows you, and you tap something on it when you want it to stop. I had never seen that before.
This is the first tee. Fake grass! The course looks very high quality apart from the fake grass tee. This is part of the Kolon sports resort, Kolon sports is basically Korean Adidas / Nike.
I am pretty sure this is a hotel. They had a wall so I climbed up on some rocks for the photo. OK, that is enough photos of Bulguksa.
Gyeongju Hwangnidan street
So it turns out there is an entire tourist funfair historic re-creation of the Silla period convenience stores just a few hundred metres over from where I spent many hours wandering aimlessly yesterday.
My journey to the area that barely appears on the map first went past some more tomb mounds. I learnt on my bus rides today that there are tomb mounds everywhere. The ones this evening were particularly good in the late afternoon sun.
Anyway, the new historic area was very nice, mostly cafe's and ice cream shops, and probably half shut on Tuesday, but still a lot of people. I will go back on another night.
Tomorrow. Is. Not. A. Hiking. Day.
Rejoice?
A tomb with flowers. Unlike the ones from yesterday, you are not allowed to walk around these ones, you have to view from afar. Still some people were walking on the grass, which prompted angry yelling over loud speakers.
Now for the streets of Hwangnidan. I think Hwangnidan is a specific street but the whole area of many streets is for toursists, and there is a huge amount of new old development going on.
An example of a cafe. I did not actually see a starbucks, even though everything looks like a starbucks, only more expensive.
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山雪 on 2024-04-09 said:
这些街道非常漂亮
jenny on 2024-04-09 said:
I think people would like those golf buggies here.
Wolseong fortress and Bomunho Lake
My goal today - squeeze as many of the sites of Gyeongju into a single day while using public buses. I think I did ok.
First up was the observatory which looks like a stone chimney, from 600 AD. Apparently it was used to gaze at the stars. Exactly how it helps you do that compared to just looking up, no one seems to know.
The second stop was the Wolseong fortress. The actual fortress is long gone other than the bases of some stone pillars, but you can walk all the way along the fortress walls so that was pretty cool for $0. There also seems to be a lot of newly discovered ruins in the process of being constructed here...
The third stop was Donggung palace and Wolji pond. A re-creation of a 7th century palace. This one had a $3 entry fee. I guess the pond was ok, but if the buildings here are what the palace was really like, it must have been cold in winter, there are no walls!
I then boarded a bus, in the wrong direction, got off, crossed the road, and went the other way and ended up at Bomunho lake, site of the 2025 APEC summit, and site of a hudred or so resort style hotels and golf courses. Most people stay in this area when they come to Gyeongju. Everything here is new and has an entrance fee.
First of all I walked past Gyeongju world, incorporating California beach. Unfortunately this was the type of amusement park with an entrance fee, not just a ride fee, so I could not go in to watch someone get decapitated by a roller coaster.
Then it was time to look at the pagoda hotel and finally, wonder what the hell is actually going on at the Gyeongju expo park with the $20 entrance fee that I was obviously not going to pay that seems to be going about as well as all other expo parks. Something Osaka has to look forward to.
If you were thinking about starting the day with a coffee, think about 12 noon, as that is when most coffee shops open. Also apart from the weird sign and spelling error, what does that slogan actually hope to achieve?
Historic relic #1, Cheomseongdae observatory, from about 600 AD. I thought the word Seongdae meant pig for some reason, but evidently not.
It was now time to ascend the fortress wall at Wolseong. I am somewhat surprised they let you climb on it because all the flat plain grass areas are off limits. The moat is new and about 30cm deep. I guess if you hate getting your feet wet it might be a deterrent to invading hordes.
More fortress wall. More blue sky today, also about 20c again, and no wind. Hence a bit more pollution but not too bad compared to previous days.
Blue plastic heralds an area of new ancient ruins on the process of being re-constructed. There is a huge amount of historic construction going on all across Gyeongju, perhaps to coincide with the upcoming APEC summit.
Now it is time for the Donggung palace and Wolji pond. These are not old buildings. The pond was pretty nice though.
OMG it is the convention centre where the APEC summit will be held. You can pay to go in and see the seats they are planning to install.
Gyeongju world on the right, California beach on the left. I assume they are ticketed separately, or perhaps you can get a combo pass. I got neither.
This drain leads up to the edge of the mountains I was on yesterday. The main parts are off to the right, but a longer trail option I could have taken would have come down to here.
Now for some pics of the all but abandoned expo park. The main attraction is this tower with the cutout of the aforementioned pagoda hotel. Presumably there is somewhere to line up a photo to get the pagoda to fill the hole.
The other main attraction appears to be this vast concrete area with the re-creation of the observatory from earler, and another conference hall. I will never know the truth as I, and everyone else, refused to pay $20 to find out.
I crossed the lake on a floating series of bridges and examined the quality of the swan boats. They appear to have motors rather than pedals. Boooo!!!
And then as I headed back to the road to find a bus stop, a giant water wheel appeared. Why you may wonder?
It generates this fake waterfall. It seems to exist to keep you entertained while you wait 5 minutes for a bus. So.. that's all for now! That was a lot?
Northeast Gyeongju
Tonight I headed in the exact opposite direction to where I have been going on previous nights. The map showed that this direction has a 'designated tourist area'. I assumed that would mean historic stuff, shops, restaurants with picture menus etc. but no, designated tourist area means hotels that rent by the hour. There are lots.
You can find food in this are but it is not really my kind of thing, it is either a hotpot for 4 people minimum, or Korean fried chicken. That's it, no other choices.
While on the failed hunt for food on this side of town I did however find a solitary tomb. Smaller, with a stone base. I have been pondering ever since what happened to this guy that his tomb is on the opposite side of town to everyone else. I will never know.
Eventually I wandered most of the way back, which included crossing a stream and found hot pot for one! That was exciting.
Now for a few pics of all this nonsense.
I have seen this building across the road from my hotel and thought nothing of it. It turns out it is a multi level supermarket. As a connoisseur of supermarkets all over the world, this is exciting news.
Late afternoon sun makes for great drain photos, the same drain / creek I would cross later on those rocks you see below.
Once over in the north eastern part of the city and high rise modern apartments are again a feature. There are not really any of these in the old tourist part of town.
Here is an example of the hotels to rent by the hour streets that make up the designated tourist area.
Now I bravely crossed the raging torrent of water. I can report that I made it safely across and did not get wet.
I was surprised to see that a few places are still open in this market after dark, you never know when you might need blended fish guts.
This is the old station, now useless. Note the I love Gyeongju sign proudly boasts of APEC 2025. If it were to be cancelled for any reason, they may never recover.
And finally, my hot pot for one. It looks like a huge amount of food, but the vegetables piled high on top of the burner boiled down to nearly nothing very soon. It was all bean shoots, mushrooms and cabbage. So with the few thin slithers of beef, this was basically almost a healthy vegetable soup.
Tomorrow is a hiking day of sorts, I have spotted a path that takes in various abandoned relics on a mountain trail. It is hard to tell how long it is - I think the far end has no bus so I might have to double back.
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adriana on 2024-04-10 said:
So many interesting things to see and eat. Hotpot dinner for one looks delicious and healthy.
mother on 2024-04-10 said:
lots of interesting things to see.
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jenny on 2024-04-08 said:
Very clean streets.