Seoul to Daegu on the KTX
Now I am in Daegu. No one has heard of Daegu. This is my third time in Daegu. Clearly I like it here.
It is a city of about 2 million people, and kind of the 3rd but actually the 4th or 5th largest city in South Korea. Depending on how you count satellite cities of Seoul.
To get here I took the bullet train, or KTX as it is known here, it takes just under 2 hours.
As I was heading to the station in Seoul, I was putting some more cash on my train card, when an African girl came up to me and asked how she could get a bus to the airport. Of course I thought immediately, this is a scam, because I trust no one ever. So I told her to take the subway to the main Seoul station then take the airport train, since she was already in the subway station. She then told me she cannot go to the main Seoul station because the police are looking for her there. Ok then.
Once I arrived in Daegu, or more precisely DongDaegu I had a short subway transfer (Daegu has 3 metro lines, one is a monorail) and then my hotel booking was not even cancelled! It is the same chain as the one that cancelled on me in Seoul, so that was a minor relief. However they do not allow you to check in until 4pm, which is a common thing to do in Korea, which is clearly a late country.
So after all that, scroll for hotel room photos.
I did a morning lap of the local area of Seoul. So many blossoms. As is often the case, I found a lot of places I wish I had walked along while I still had time.
Here is the view outside of the Seoul station, I do not know what the big L is for, loser probably. I stood by the L. Apt.
The inside of the very familiar Seoul station. I thought I would get there close to train time, but I still had an hour to spare. So I bought a drink.
I enjoyed the view up the hill of the old little houses while enjoying my clear colourless fruit drink. By houses I mean smaller non identical apartment blocks.
There are many kinds of trains that depart from here, the names increase in complexity depending on how slow they go. The fastest ones, just called KTX.
I could not get a clear shot of the front of the train, refer to previous trips! Inside it is much like any other bullet train. Later on this trip I have booked some first class carriages, but for this one economy. I boarded first when it was still emtpy, but it was actually completely full when we departed, with people standing at each end.
When I was last here, this was all destroyed wooden decking. Now it is all shiny and new. At least they finished something. Those pillars on the band stand thing are of course, LED screens.
And now the only photos of my hotel room. The floor has carpet. Amazing. Must be because it is a Japanese chain. I was absolutely thrilled to have a real desk to sit at again. It is hard to believe some hotel rooms do not think you need somewhere to sit and work. Even if you are not on business, people holidaying just for leisure these days need to look stuff up, post duck face photos etc.
And it even has a Japanese style bathroom! Which is to say, poorly lit and plastic. But at least the water does not drain across the floor.
Now to figure out where to go to tonight. I will only be here 3 nights.
DongDaegu station area
Each time I have come to Daegu, when I leave I go back to the high speed rail station and remember that it has a huge department store and probably lots of places to eat and I regret not having gone there during my stay.
To right this wrong, tonight I went there on my first night, on foot, and discovered whole areas of Daegu that are new and modern and shiny that google maps does not yet seem to know exist.
While waiting for my dinner I also read that cherry blossom anxiety is a thing in Korea now too, with men putting ads online for girls to go with them to be seen at blossom locations, $20 an hour, no physical contact, 2 meals plus dessert provided, 3 pictures minimum with both of you in the picture etc. All so the poor guy can demonstrate to people at work that he experienced the blossom picnic.
So this explains what I saw going on last night. If you are not seen with the blossoms and somebody you can claim you went to the blossoms with, then you might as well be dead.
I did not post this earlier as I was waiting for better light. This is the view out of my hotel window. If I remember on another night I will take it again in the dark.
The walk towards DongDaegu was very nice. The whole way was very nice. I think Daegu is a highly underrated city.
Last time I was here I walked along this river. Behind me there were many cherry blossom trees along the river banks, but I was trapped on the wrong side of the road. Nice reflections though.
This is the area of Daegu I did not really know existed. I believe that is a brand new Hyundai department store. Once again, I was on the wrong side of the road. Very wide roads!
DongDaegu Venture Valley. I guess a kind of silicon valley. They capitalise DongDaegu the same way I have been. I thought I invented that.
Here is my destination for this evening. The simply enormous Shinsegae department store. Photos cannot really explain how large and unusually shaped it is.
Tonight's dinner is similar to a recent one. Korean style pasta. Although this time it has galbi (short ribs on the huge bone) and is in a curry sauce. Very nice.
As mentioned, the department store is also the high speed train station, and a subway station. So here is a photo of all of them at once. Also under it is my bus stop tomorrow morning, so I went to make sure I could find that, even though I have caught that bus before, getting to the stop through the buildings is a bit tricky.
And for my final pic of the day, the terrifying 'Youtuber academy'. Just what everyone needs, a school to teach people how to yell at me on youtube.
Tomorrow is a long hiking day. Strangely the bus does not seem to run as early as I would like, so I will be back late tomorrow!
Hiking Palgongsan over Dongbong to Gatbawi
This was my third time climbing Palgongsan. Obviously I like it.
I received feedback that I share too many pictures, so I decided to completely ignore that and go overboard, therefore I will type less here and go straight to the pics, after the stats....
6 hours and 8 minutes - faster than last time!
14.51km, less than last time, so that accounts for the time difference.
32,000 steps, again less that last time.
1926 calories burned.
1358m vertical ascent.
I think last time I must have started the GPS at the convenience store rather than the hiking trail, that might account for most of the difference.
Now for a lot of photos.
I took bus #1 from DongDaegu station. The usually excellent Naver app lied to me, the bus does run early but the app does not show it. I suspect the app showed the first bus to arrive at the national park at 9am, which would coincide with the cable car commencing operation. This was a bit annoying as I hung around waiting for it to be late enough for the bus, even though I could have gone an hour or more earlier.
After about an hour I arrived at the last bus stop, Donghwasa temple. There is a small town here and 2 convenience stores to stock up on supplies.
Near the start of the trail, a small fair has sprung up. I was a bit early for it. I thought there would be a lot more people around, both on the bus and on the trail.
You start by going past some camp sites. Korean camp sites are a flat wooden deck, you pitch your tent on the deck. There were tents here last year but surprisingly, none this year. Note even one.
Many high quality stair cases. There is a cable car as you shall see, but obviously, I did not and will not take it!
The first view of the day. The sky got less interesting as the day went on. Strangely as soon as I got on the bus back down, it was blue sky again, so perhaps it was only cloudy in the mountains.
There is even a food court. They are not open yet. I think I ate something here the first time I came many years ago. I will have to go back and check. OK I checked.
First visit was 10 March 2015. It was earlier in the year so there was still a bit of snow. I had a coffee in the food court. I did not continue on to Gatbawi, I went down a different way entirely.
2nd visit was 30 May 2022, when I did basically the same course as today.
I did not really stop at all today, but also did not trip over, despite the many rocks and tree roots.
Looking down on the top cable car station. As you can see I have already gone quite a bit beyond the reach of the cable car. The slopes up to the peak at Dongbong behind me are the steepest of the day.
The journey ahead would lead to all those antennas, where the highest point of the day has almost no view.
Here is the only view from the peak. There are fences on all 3 other sides as it is a military area.
I continued on over to the next peak, not bothering to even stop for a drink break at the main peak.
Here you can see a lot of the infrastructure from the previous photos, you will see it again from an ever increasing distance throughout the day. That is something to get excited about.
This is probably the nicest spot on the trail, and for nearly everyone, it is where they turn and head back down. But I will continue on!
Beyond this point I passed another hiker probably once every 30 minutes on average, which for a Saturday, is not very often.
Every now and then in seemingly random locations, a deck or similar appeared. I had it to myself. A good urination platform (off the edge not on the actual deck, I am not an animal!).
The next bit of infrastructure to stop and have a muesli bar. There is someone in it so I sat under it. Prime directive when hiking, avoid interaction with others at all costs.
All these dead looking trees are actually Rhododendrons. And are the purple flowers I keep going on about. Up here in the mountains the flowers have not blossomed yet.
In this middle section the park became less well maintained, but often there were flatter bits for fast progress.
I think this was the 3rd helicopter landing area of the journey, but this one looks well maintained, the H is recently painted.
And nearly all the golf course. I guess they cover the greens in winter? Otherwise they would be brown and dead as well. OK enough golf course.
There is my final destination. Well actually the bit on the top of the hill with the Buddha as you shall see shortly.
And now, here are people praying to the Buddha, while I take their photo. This is all on the top of a mountain on the edge of a cliff.
And there he is. Carved from one rock, between 800 and 900 AD, so 1200 years ago. Named Gatbawi, I learned that Gat = hat in Korean, and he is wearing a traditional Korean style hat.
The way down is a huuuuge staircase. This is looking back up some of the stairs. Just a small part of the stairs.
There are many rest areas on this staircase. A lot of people just come up this staircase to go see the Buddha, then back down again. They do not add on a 6 hour pilgrimage like me, which means I am much more spiritual or something.
The bottom area is a small town with dessert bars and cafes, but instead I took a photo of a stream.
And then there it is! My bus. The good old 401. They come very regularly, I just missed one and the next one left 10 minutes later.
That was a long day. I will not be going too far tonight.
Daegu main shopping area
I thought I would be tireder. The word tireder looks wrong. More tired sounds wrong. Lets go with, substantially more exhausted.
Despite not being as tired as I feared, I did stay local, and enjoy the political rallies. I think the actual election is on Wednesday, which seems like a strange day to have an election, in Australia they are always on Saturday.
I am very familiar with the main shopping area of Daegu, I think it is great. It seems there are more places to eat that I am interested in than most other places I have been. I recognised a couple of places I ate at last time I was here, it is good to see that they are still in business.
And now, story time. It seems that in Seoul they are removing the fabric seats from subway trains and replacing them with hard plastic. There was a public outcry after someone claimed they caught bed bugs from a subway seat after sitting in a seat that a French person had been sitting in before them. I do recall the news stories about France being filled with bed bugs, but to replace 400,000 subway seats (a number I completely made up), this seems like a rather severe overreaction.
The main shopping area is a bit away from Daegu station. It does extend all the way to the station, but the closer you get to the station the quieter it gets. The last stretch seen here is giant cheap jewellery stores.
I decided to have curry, again, but SUPER HOT, vegetable curry. The photo on the menu had a lot more broccoli and carrot and a lot less potato. It was still pretty nice though.
Costume jewellery street, which runs off the main jewellery street, was already shut. I do not really think Koreans wear a lot of jewellery, I also do not think I have typed the word jewellery so often in my life.
A political rally, for the pink 7! Generally it is a battle between blue 1 and red 2, so seeing the actual pink 7 in the flesh, truly an honour.
At the actual focal point of the shopping area, the city has paid for a girl DJ to drop some phat beats so the political dorks cannot move into the spot. Also, whenever anything related to the government pays for a DJ, they get a girl DJ. It helps with the quota.
Remember when Kodak sold cameras and film? Now they are a clothing brand. I am about 62.7% sure I took a photo of this last time I was here and made the same observation.
OK, a few nights ago in Gangnam I was taking photos of the places you go to get your photo taken... and I joked about one of them being a place to get your photo taken that looks like the entrance hallway to a rich persons house. It turns out that those are a chain, and they re create the same bizarre experience all over Korea.
Tonight's zero calorie drinks of choice, chupa chups strawberry and melon flavoured milk soda. Yes really. Actually I could say I got the strawberry one to commemorate the pink 7 sighting earlier. OK lets go with that.
And as threatened, for my final picture of the day, the shot out my hotel room window, at night. This is a long exposure.
Tomorrow is NOT a hiking day, well I might wander up the hill looking over the city, but that does not count as a hiking day.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2024-04-06 said:
我喜欢吃西兰花。在日本的菜肴中很难找到它。
mother on 2024-04-06 said:
You've outdone yourself today! What a big hike!
Apsan observation deck
One of the most popular places to go in Daegu is Apsan. This is my third time. Last time it was under re-construction and the actual viewing deck was off limits. This meant that today I simply had no choice but to go back and see if it was finished. It was.
There are many ways to turn this small adventure into more of a proper hiking day, last time I walked a loop around the back of the mountain and up over the back way and then down the main path. Today I just went for a leisurely stroll with a thousand locals up the main path, which is a steep road for much of it, then high quality steps.
There are a few temples, and these are a source of nuisance, as mini vans keep driving dangerously up the steep road brushing against all the people walking while blowing their horn non stop and with monks leaning out the window yelling at everyone. Then at the temple they have quiet please we are praying signs everywhere. It made me want to go and buy a portable horn and wander into the temple itself and just blow it for no reason. Repeatedly. And then hurl some insults at the entitled monks.
For the first few photos today, I accidentally had my camera set to -1.7ev. Which means they were badly underexposed. I adjusted them in lightroom but they kind of look a bit weird and contrasty as a result. This is the street outside my hotel at dawn. No one really gets up early on Sunday in Korea.
The only cafe open early was the fancy starbucks pictured yesterday. So that is where I went, I had most of the place to myself.
The road up to Apsan goes past the street full of 'eat every part of a pig' restaurants. Interestingly, when COVID burst onto the scene in Korea in a huge way, it happened first in Daegu, and it was linked to this specific street.
Time to start the climb up to the top of Apsan. The lower parts have a stream running along side the path.
It is very steep. This is where you might get run over by a monk driving erratically, reading one of his brand new iphones while wearing very expensive sunglasses.
Here is the temple. There is probably a really good view off to the right, but they do not allow you to go over there. Maybe the wall is falling down.
Here is a shot of the staircase to the top of Apsan. It is a bit greener here than the other hikes I have been on, a lot more pine trees.
There is a cable car. OBVIOUSLY I DID NOT TAKE IT. It is hard to get a clear shot of it though, this is the best I could do.
Now for the viewing area. This was off limits last time. Now it has a rabbit. There is an auto camera station thing that encourages people to time their leap into the air. This seems like a bad idea for the longevity of the wooden decking. Also the blue poles are where a rock sticks up through the decking. I suspect the safety poles were not part of the original design and they wish they built the decking 1 foot higher.
Time to head back down. Here is a neatly framed shot of the golf course that I believe is the US Marine Corp camp. They do not have bases, they have camps.
Once I got to the bottom I walked around the bottom of the hill for a while to find the cable car station. I think this is it, if you squint you can see the observation deck at the top.
The whole area near my hotel is underground shopping streets. This one is 2 levels, periodically there is an atrium like this with robot art.
Today was a rest day, so I was back in town in time for lunch. On hiking days I just have muesli bars, but not today, today I got to have a beef poke bowl. That's all for now.
Daegu Spark Land
My last night in Daegu so I set out on a looping walk, bathing in the clear almost pollution free skies.
I decided my goal was to find spots to appreciate the lack of pollution. First stop was the giant church. I still cannot figure out if it is old or new.
Then it was time to head to Spark Land, site of the rooftop ferris wheel. I took some great photos from there on my last visit, and although tonight's were probably not as good, they were still pretty great.
Then it was time to hunt for a small dinner, which ended up being food for a poor person, and too large. Oh well.
That was all a matter of fact update. Tomorrow I go to Gyeongju. I have not been there before. Getting there involves a short bullet train ride then a mystery bus.
There are a couple of large department stores a bit away from the main shopping area, The Hyundai as pictured here, but also the equally as large, and not pictured here Donga. You can find pictures of Donga if you go revisit my last visit to here.
Might as well throw in a photo of the church. Like I said above, I cannot tell if it is old or new. There are really old photos of something in this spot that looks similar, but maybe not as large. The distortion on that car is quite severe in this shot!
Back in the main area and I became aware of all the multi level games arcades. These do not exist outside of Asia, that is when I remembered the ferris wheel on the roof. The best view of all.
My hunt for dinner had me considering the bird cage restaurant, but they did not offer prices on their menu, so that is a no from me.
Instead I had the cheapest meal of the trip so far. About $5 for a huge bowl of huge mandoo dumplings. Those white slices of rubber looking things, I do not know if they are vegetable or not! Quite chewy. The dumplings kind of look like tripe here, but that is just the pattern on the bottom of them from the cloth in the steamer. They were actually just regular pork / mystery meat dumplings.
And for my final picture, a B street. One block over from the shiny neon streets you get slightly less garish streets. Still lots to see along here though.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2024-04-07 said:
Nice sunset shots
David on 2024-04-07 said:
They have 1 group of bears hidden away somewhere that they reintroduced
The only things that might attack you are wild pigs, or maybe a snake
mother on 2024-04-07 said:
Do they have bears in Korea or any other dangerous wild animals to look out for on a hike. Nice trees today and flowers too!
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2024-04-05 said:
No, it is very much Korean
adriana on 2024-04-05 said:
Is Shinsegae a Japanese department store? It sounds vaguely Japanese.