Melbourne airport
I have now completed the most dangerous part of my journey, walking from my home to the Skybus in central Melbourne at 3:30am on Easter Saturday. You see on the way there, I had to dodge vomit, drunks on scooters, drunks fighting each other, a possible drive by shooting attempt as I passed King street, a taxi that appeared to have crashed into a tram and a street sweeper debating the homeless. I probably should have taken some photos but I was anxious to get past it all and get to the airport.
As it turns out, and often does, I was early for the airport, early enough to sit here and type some nonsense before boarding. Early enough to take some pointless blurry photos out of the airport tinted windows in the dark of the jet I will soon board.
And on that note, I am not sure when the next update will be! Depending on prevailing winds I may not have much time at all in Singapore, and then I will arrive in Seoul (Incheon) quite late, and then it is a bit of a bus journey to my hotel, at which point I will probably pass out, wake up the next morning, and then go hiking in the yellow sand panic alert pollution.
I like to start every trip with an overly long adjective filled sentence.
Here is a boring shot of Melbourne airport. The people above are coming off the plane I am about to get on.
And there is my plane. It just arrived. I guess it leaves again in 2 hours. Since it is an Airbus I did not have to bring my own toolbox to tighten the loose bolts which are now a feature of Boeing jets. However my next flight is on a Boeing, so I will have to pick up some tools in Singapore duty free.
Melbourne to Singapore on an Airbus A350
I do not have much time so lets crank this out.
The plane was completely full, do not let the photo below fool you, I do not think there was a spare seat. Not surprising given that it is the Easter weekend and School holidays. Normally I somehow avoid that despite flying in April most years?
Anyway, the guy next to me, coughed once every 0.6 seconds, for 7.5 hours straight. A very light cough, phlegm free. He only stopped while eating. I was wishing bad things upon him, I think he had emphysema, so bad things are coming for him anyway.
Surprisingly, it was time for a taste of the old days, with the in flight entertainment not working, and multiple reboots of the whole system required to get it going about 2 hours into the flight. This used to happen more often than not, but it is a rare thing these days. I was fine with this, as it provided me with entertainment, to watch everyone pressing their call bell to ask why they cannot get it to work, despite the announcements that it is not working. And each time the silly stewardess would try and get the individual screen to work despite fully knowing and being able to see that all 300 screens on the plane were not working.
Anyway, now I am in Singapore. I had a shower. I am hydrating in multiple locations. And I do not have much time. No time for my regular over long sentences.
I knew it was full, so I boarded first. Most people who's white privilege allows them to board first do not fly economy. But I do.
This was my first lounge stop in Singapore. I am rarely here during the day time as I normally take overnight flights. During the day they seem to have a noodles made to order stand, today I did not avail.
Instead I had some old rice noodles and the dim sum surprise, the bun still had the paper on the bottom, which I ate anyway. Are you supposed to? I have no idea. Now I am full of paper.
Proof of shower. They did not always have these in Singapore in the Kris flyer gold lounge that is available to people flying with 'Virgin status'.
And finally, my second lounge stop, the rare lounge on the far side of the airport that is smaller and darker and just as empty at this time of day.
The next update will be late, but will have the ultra important to everyone for seemingly inexplicable reasons 'hotel pictures', which will include photos of my single bed (I think I got upgraded to a twin room from a queen for free... I did not ask for that, sounds like an 'upgrade'). That is enough air quotes and brackets.
Arriving in Seoul
It is now Sunday morning not Saturday night. I hoped to be out hiking by now, but no. Getting here was a disaster as my hotel cancelled my booking and gave my room to someone else and they had no other rooms! I will come back to that...
The flight was actually fine, we arrived early, it was half full, the Korean style food they served was excellent, even in economy.
Then the first problem, it took 90 minutes to go through the passport checking queue. A lot of people did not handle this well.
This meant I would not be able to catch the airport train into town as it stops running at 11pm, and I would have to go find a bus. That was not too difficult, the ticket kiosk was easy to figure out and allowed foreign credit cards. The bus took about an hour and I arrived at my hotel soon after midnight.
This is when they told me that they considered me a no show and had given my room to someone else!
I was outraged and demanded to speak to the manager etc. They were very apologetic. This was the Toyoko Inn, a major global chain. I even showed them that when I made the booking months ago that they had replied to me through booking.com telling me my midnight arrival time was fine. It has to be a very common thing for people to arrive then!
I had been checking accommodation options in Seoul leading up to my departure and there were very few other options available, they all cost a fortune. Prices had doubled since I booked months ago.
The hotel check in staff agreed to ring around and find me a room in another hotel, they were kids and were shell shocked because I wanted to call the police and threatened to come back every day and yell at the manager.
I suspect they had happily re sold my room to someone else at double the price which is bullshit, but probably hotel policy when availability in Seoul is low and the possibility of charging a huge rate for people booking at the last minute becomes available. It seemed a bit like a flight overbooking policy that some airlines get away with.
So they found me another hotel nearby, but I got their last available room they do not normally sell, that costs twice as much as my Toyoko Inn booking that had been cancelled. The room is made for people in a wheelchair and in a state of disrepair! I think I might be able to change rooms in this hotel to a better one, they were apologetic about the strange room they had to give me at such short notice.
Here is the bus I took. I had researched bus options before arriving thinking I would be too late for the train, and I was. The late night bus is actually faster than the trains I would have taken, but with added potential bus related confusion which did not eventuate on this occasion.
And here are the shots of the weird low room for someone in a wheelchair. There is effectively no desk which will annoy me. Hopefully they can find me a better room in the hotel somewhere for my 2nd night onwards.
This hotel is not on any website I can find, so it must only be on Korean websites. This means it operates the flood the entire bathroom shower method that I have experienced here a few times before. A strange concept!
The bonus is, if I get to move rooms, more room shots. Also no hiking today as all my messing around meant almost no sleep, and I know my reader(s) hate when I go hiking.
Guryongsan from Yangjae to Irwon stations
Rejoice, for not only have I got a better room now, but I have more room photos of said room.
I thought I might try and sleep in given my very late night last night. But no, that never works. I woke up on Australian time which was about 5am Korean time, and then laid in bed pretending to be asleep for a while before giving up and getting up to be furious about my cancelled room situation some more.
There was then an unexpected challenge, the first 2 x ATM's I tried would not give me any cash. The same ATM's worked previously, but Citibank who I have used forever for fee free cash sold their business to NAB, and while there are still no fees I suspect the acceptance at foreign ATM's is different. Eventually I found an ATM that would give me cash, and then later I tried another at 7-eleven that also worked (the Lotte branded ATM's they have). OK that is enough banking news, it was time to go for a hike.
My actual starting point was the Yangjae citizens forest station. I have started a hike from there before and headed east, but today I would head west on the Seoul grand trail for a while. Not too far as I was sleepy and grumpy, and the hotel I got shoved off into early this morning informed me that if I was back by 2pm they would give me a better room, a room perhaps not designed for someone in a wheelchair with exposed wiring and nowhere to hang a towel.
And so a better room I got, although its still costing more than my cancelled booking so I still intend to cause more trouble for someone. I also wonder if the CCTV footage of me threatening to kill the Toyoko Inn check in staff who cancelled my booking and re sold my room last night has gone viral yet on Korean foreigner shaming news?
I started my outing by wandering around Gangnam looking for an ATM that would give me cash. Good weather, only mild pollution despite the yellow death sand from Mongolia warning that I had read just before leaving Australia.
Blue sky. I did not even need my jacket and later in the day it felt like shorts and t-shirt weather on the hike.
This is a spot I had been to previously to find a hike. Last time I went over the mountain pictured under that banner, however today I would go in the opposite direction. I took this photo mainly to show that the Korean election is still a 1 vs 2 battle. I am standing under a banner for 1, and there is a partially obscured banner for 2 over the road.
Lets de grumpify by going hiking. Everything will be dead and brown. It is the start of spring and there are cherry blossom places to go and gawk at near here, but on my hike - piles of dead brown leaves that live on all through the freezing winter.
It did not take too long for a decent view to appear. I was only going at half speed today on a short 5km journey.
The start of my hike was lonely, but then stair cases appeared, and eventually my trail also become a stair case too. There were a lot of people hiking in bare feet which seems to be a thing these days, it is important to get grounded regularly, and also sun your perineum.
And an example of the staircases. The fence is because there is a military base on the other side. Actually it is a strangely shaped building built into the hill that I think is the South Korean version of the Pentagon. You cannot see it from the trail but you can see it on google satellite.
Back in Gangnam now, and my replacement hotel is better located than my surprise cancellation hotel.
This is the night life area for rich folks. Well maybe behind me further up the hill for the really rich folks.
Now for the photos of my new replacement room. Here is the bed and a little desk. Still not a great desk setup, but better than the other room.
And a 3 part bathroom. First the actual bath, and then separate smaller rooms for the space toilet and space shower. So yes, a much nicer room than the wheelchair room I slept in last night.
Tonight I may not go too far, probably need an early night!
Seoul express bus terminal underground shopping
Tonight I went somewhere I have not been to before, the large and busy underground mall known as the Goto mall which is under the largest bus station in Seoul.
It is not too far from my hotel so I walked there. The twilight sun was quite interesting to look at, but it does get dark later than I expected, so there will not be too many night photos on this trip because I still Goto mall (bed) when fat cat tells me.
My next challenge after solving hotel dilemmas is to not get sick from the plane flight.
I am clearly a hypochondriac, but any kind of respiratory illness will either result in no hiking, or possibly going hiking with no regard to my possible future poor health and then drop dead.
And on that cheery note, some photos.
There are many brands of rental bikes and scooters littered all across the streets of Seoul. In Melbourne we only have 2 brands so we miss out on the colourful cornucopia that infinite brands brings. Such wonderful devices for drunken idiots to kill themselves and also kill a few innocent old ladies on their way to the doctor.
Once I got to the bus station are I immediately descended into the Goto mall and considered going to this poor persons food court. But I was a bit too early even for me.
The mall itself is mainly flowers and women's clothes. It is about 2km long. There are 2 parallel lanes, but also some other non affiliated underground malls running off to the sides including a very large Shinsegae department store and the bus station itself, which you shall see shortly.
I wanted to take a photo of buses so I came up to the surface and behold, cherry blossoms. Personally I am a dead leaf man myself, but if blossoms are your thing, start getting excited.
Here are some buses. Lots of buses. This is not all of them, and the station building which I did not photograph at all just to confuse everyone with my next statement is a giant brutalist monument. These are all inter city buses.
And for dinner, hamburg steak, with rose sauce, and cheese and an egg. And fries. Yeah.
Tomorrow is probably a real hiking day! Unless I wake up with COVID.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2024-03-31 said:
这么多巴士可供选择。星巴克的厕所很好。请照顾你的健康。
mother on 2024-03-31 said:
Interesting that korean hotel rooms don't seem to go in for carpet
Yebongsan and Ungilsan from Paldang Station
I did this hike previously, on 7 November 2022. At the time I declared it a top 5 hike of all time. That was during Autumn, when the leaves were colourful and the sun was lower in the sky. Today I did it again in Spring. When everything was dead and brown and the sun was much higher over head (which means the light for photos was not as good). Upon inspection of my last visit which you can find on this very website, I have determined that today I wore the same pants as last time, without even trying.
My previous visit here also has the rather expensive memory of being the first time I noticed huge dust spots on my camera sensor. Which after getting considerably worse resulted in repair attempts that eventually destroyed my camera. I have since re purchased the same model, so today I am looking at the photos in some detail for dust spots. If they are there this time, it is still under warranty and I will attempt no such repair myself!
OK, enough reminiscing good and bad, it is time to look at the not quite as good as last time photos from today's still excellent hike.
Today I had a different starting point compared to last time. I decided to approach the mountain from south of the river, from Hanam station, the last station on the purple line.
Starting from Hanam station added about 50 minutes walking to the start of the hike, and meant I had to walk over a bridge across the river. Finding a way up onto the bridge required negotiating a construction site.
Crossing the bridge provided a great view. I cannot tell if they are building or dismantling that bridge.
Before too long I was at the familiar start point of the rocky trail. Time to start my watch. Today's hike was not overly long, about 12km, 5 hours, 29,000 steps. I seem to have exited it at a different point compared to last time.
At the main summit are the usual ribbons, and I think in peak times someone would sit in that tent selling drinks and ice creams. Maybe they do a deal with the observatory to bring them up on the train thing.
Last time I took a wrong turn at the observatory which then required me to double back to my desired trail. No such issue today. I would follow the path around all those ridges coming from the middle left of this photo.
After the observatory there were only 2 or 3 other people for the next 3 hours. The path was still good for most of the journey. I will rant about the tricky path down at the end.
Here is the hang gliding launch point. There is a private dirt road not on the map that comes up a valley to here.
This style of sign is very useful. If you come to a fork in the trail you probably need to check your map, unless it is explained like this. Obviously I took the red option.
The path down that I chose was poorly marked, a real choose your own adventure backed up by the occasional ribbons in trees. There are multiple ways down, I chose the wrong way.
It also required crossing a small stream numerous times. I am very cautious with streams and possibly mossy slippery rocks.
And then I came off the trail about here. A few hundred metres from where the map suggested I should come out. This makes me think I lost the trail down at some point.
Final pic of the day, Ungilsan station. The train came within 5 minutes of me getting to the platform.
Still a great hike today, just not as picturesque as last time.
Tonight's journey to find dinner will be short and local!
Global Taekwondo Headquarters
I exited my hotel and spotted a hill to walk up. This would seem like a ridiculous thing to do because I had been climbing hills all day, but when I see a hill, I must go up it. If you want to set a trap for me, erect a hill nearby with a trap at the top.
Up the hill turned out to be the Global Taekwondo Headquarters. I guess they invented it here, so they get to have the global headquarters.
After finding a way out of the strangely secure compound, I found myself in Gangnam hills, home of many a k pop star, but also many places to dress up and go in a photo booth to pay for poor quality photos. These are now a thing in Melbourne too, but there is an entire street of them here as you shall see.
Finally it was time for Korean style pasta, which I shall describe in the photo below.
There it is, the Global Taekwondo Headquarters. I am getting tired of typing that. They had hundreds of country flags surrounding the building, leading up to a separate area of 20 x USA flags. Everyone else only gets one flag.
As I mentioned, the grounds were inside a secure compound, with check points for vehicles and large fences. So I walked right in and did some exercises on the equipment they have kindly provided. Getting out of the compound was a bit frustrating, I assumed there would be another way out but no, just more fences.
There was nowhere for a good clear view of the city below. This is the best I could do. It also features yellow flowers.
Nearby area a lot of sports equipment shops, specifically for combat sports. We do not have an Adidas combat sports specialty store in Australia.
The area around Gangnam is on some steep hills. You cannot ever photograph 'steep' effectively. There are a lot of very fancy cafes.
Taking over from cafes these days are all the themed places to have your photograph taken. You go in here to dress up like a skater boy.
In this one you pretend to be in a rich persons house entrance. The quotes from previous guests were strangely also available in English, and included 'I enjoyed not only the photogenic setting for my influential instagram channel, but personally appreciated the flattering lighting which made my face smooth, and also the uplifting fragrance'.
Today was a no words spoken day. I have been questioned when I mention that to other people as to how that can be possible. Here is how. This is how you order food and also pay for it, there is a slot for a credit card. This particular place had no English, but that is fine, just point your phone at it while you go through the menu and read it on your phone.
And here is my dinner. Apparently it is Korean style pasta. Which features Bulgogi beef and Gochujang shrimp. I was able to enjoy.
I headed back along the main pedestrian street that also has cars to get back to my hotel. It was actually dark even! Also very quiet on a Monday night.
And finally, I now know why there are kung fu dudes in the middle of the road everywhere around here.
Tomorrow is a rest day, so not photos of dead mountains, probably.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
elz on 2024-04-02 said:
where is picture of you dressed as an skater boy ?
adriana on 2024-04-01 said:
Gangnam hills reminds me a bit of the back streets of Shibuya.
jenny on 2024-04-01 said:
not only rocks, but tree roots to smash your ankles on.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2024-03-31 said:
Disasters are all part of the travel fun. No trains or buses in Tokyo late at night either. We had to get a taxi once!
on 2024-03-30 said:
no not supposed to eat the paper and the plants are real
mother on 2024-03-30 said:
happy travels