Melbourne airport
This will be an overly long extremely self indulgent introduction so buckle up.
First of all, just a few days ago over 150 people were killed in Itaewon (drunken foreigner suburb of Seoul) during a crush at the Halloween festivities. It is fortunate I was not there, and it is important I make a tragedy all about me. I was booked to go to Japan, from the last week of October, which would have had me in Shibuya on Halloween taking photos as I have done on 3 previous occasions. Japan's indecision as of about 8 weeks ago about their borders due to Covid had me cancel Japan and re book going to Korea, again, a country who had already let the genie out of the bottle and were extremely unlikely to stuff it back in and close the borders again.
My intention was to go to Japan from the last week of October, not because of Halloween specifically, but because of weather, and autumn leaves. However I could not get flights to line up, so I am going 1 week later than originally intended, to a different country (South Korea) than originally intended (Japan).
Had I got flights on the days of my choosing, I would have been in Itaweon on Halloween comparing it to Shibuya.
However, having said all that, the crush occurred after my bed time, it would have been very unlikely I would have been there at the time it occurred, unless I was trapped in a crush of people in a laneway of course.
Now for the next topic... VIGILANT STORM!!!!
Currently the South Korean Air Defence Force, United States Air Force, and for no known reason, the Royal Australian Air Force, are flying hundreds of fighter jets and launching hundreds of bombs and missiles along the No fly zone with North Korea. The operation is called vigilant storm and is the biggest in over a decade. North Korea has responded to this provocation by lobbing a few missiles a few miles further South than they have before.
Obviously I wrote this to read like I am a dirty commie, but in all the reporting I read on the missiles from the North I read nothing about Vigilant Storm and especially nothing about Australia's involvement.
So... after all that, I am indeed heading back to Korea for the second time in a year. It was my 4th choice of destination, but at the time I needed to make a decision, the only one open to tourists, so they get my money.
It will be cold, perhaps in the minuses, it will get dark before my bedtime, unlike my recent May/June trip, so I will be taking some night time neon photos and finally it will be 4 weeks and visiting only cities I have visited before (Seoul, Gwangju, Daejeon), and there will hopefully be lots and lots of hiking, assuming I do not get covid. A nice long running sentence to get us under way.
Now the usual warning, two long flights, via Singapore, buses, trains etc. all leading up to finally being able to check into a hotel and pass out after no sleep for days, so prepare for even more rambling and boring transit pics.
Update from the airport:
I was pulled aside for some extra questions / light interrogation by a customs guy who wanted to know why I was returning to Korea twice in a year as a single middle aged crazy looking man. My website may have saved me, I said I like to go hiking and Japan's indecisive border policy made me select Korea again instead of Japan. He asked me if I was going for business or visiting people, I said no, I am going hiking, alone. He was perplexed, so I pulled out my phone and showed him my website, which already had the above paragraphs written on a hidden page, and LITERALLY millions of photos from previous visits. He noted I am wearing the same top today as I was in May, very observant.
It is me, with my thousand yard stare, and my friend the Chengdu panda for the flights that used to go to Chengdu from Melbourne but have not done so for years. Note I hacked off big chunks of hair and dunked my head in a bucket of water just before leaving for the airport to make myself look as homeless as possible.
I thought it best to head into the Singapore Kris Flyer lounge for a light snack before my flight, and so I had oily beef rendang and cheesy moussaka, a winning combo. Now to activate this part of the website, hopefully...
Transiting Singapore Airport
Technically it is Friday now, I think, or late Thursday. Either way I am posting it for Friday.
My flight from Melbourne to Singapore was 7 hours and I had a spare seat next to me, lets get to that in a moment.
Before boarding I had the pleasure of witnessing a domestic assault incident in Melbourne airport. A young couple on their way to Phuket. A rather chunky lass in a boob tube was beating the crap out of her boyfriend and screaming at him, because he forgot to bring her noise cancelling headphones. Phuket on Jetstar seems about right. Yes I am a mega snob, despite looking like a vagrant.
Now for story 2, I had a spare seat next to me on the Boeing 777, which with Singapore airlines is still 3-3-3 nine abreast seating. Many airlines converted these to 3-4-3. Anyway, the guy across from me, was the witch doctor from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom!
He chanted prayers for the whole flight, non stop, while rattling a sack full of children's bones. This is 100% the truth, I am sure he was saying "Kali maa, shakti de!" at one point.
My heart however was at no point ripped from my chest.
Story 3 is the trials and tribulations of kids with the airline tray full of precariously balanced food. It has never ever gone well, today was no exception. I watched a kid tip a full glass of water into his food tray thing, then try to cut a bread roll in half which sent the knife flying into the aisle, and finally they gave out paddle pop ice creams, cryogenically frozen, and in opening that he knocked his tray clean off the fold down table before half his paddle pop ended up in his lap. Good times.
Now I am having a hot chocolate in the Silver Kris lounge, it is not very good, I feel it is largely just brown water. 2 hours until my next flight.
My flight arrived at the F gates, only recently reopened, and far from anywhere, and as I found out, impossible to walk through back to the regular A, B, C and D gate areas due to construction. Still I always like to walk as far as possible and ponder at how much carpet there is in the airport. I then had to go on the robot train instead of walking, boooo...
Singapore airport is a bit busier than back in May, more things open especially food related things. But also a lot of construction.
I took a tour of the butterfly house and stood in the pitch black to take this photo which does not appear nearly as black as reality. But there are still no butterflies.
And finally... boring lounge shot. This is the newer lesser lounge. I liked it when this one was closed and they just sent everyone to the first class lounge. The wifi in here is horrifically slow, and they do not let you take bottles of water to walk around with in the terminal.
Arriving in Seoul
It has been a long couple of days but I am now checked into my hotel and typing this.
First up, flight number 2, which was from Singapore to Seoul on an Airbus A350. These are really quiet, but really tight with 9 abreast seating. Still it was only 6 hours because of a tail wind and a desire to land before North Korea starts testing missiles again, so it seemed to go quickly. I caught my head falling over a couple of times indicating I had minimal sleep at some point. Masks are still mandatory on flights to and from South Korea, which was fine with me as I was wearing one anyway. Nearly everyone onboard was Korean or Singaporean, and mostly younger females, watching K-dramas on their phones, which might be the purpose of the people from Singapore visiting, K-drama tourism is huge.
One large Korean girl kept glaring at me all night, no idea why, I was dead silent and had my screen off and barely moved, so I started glaring back and she got very uneasy about it all and started whispering in another girls ear about me. I was thrilled to provide her with some entertainment. It was a risky move as she looked like she could swallow me whole.
Thankfully, they did not serve a meal at 2am, they waited until 6am and served breakfast, this is the opposite to the last time I took an overnight flight.
Now onto the arrival, you still need the KETA visa that is not a visa, you should still do the QCODE quarantine thing even though vaccines are not mandatory, because you can skip another line if you do it, and the best news of all, no more Covid test on arrival. The biggest source of concern I had last time was still testing positive weeks or even months after having Covid, it was happening to a lot of people who were then being taken by ambulance to a quarantine camp, this no longer happens.
So after all that, it was 9am and I can't check into a hotel until 3pm, so it was time to do the aimless wandering routine and snap a few photos. Good photos too, nice clear blue sky, blinding sunlight, and about 2 degrees, lets get onto them as there are a few.
Here is the first photo I took in Korea on this trip. Standing outside the airport realising that 2 degrees is indeed, quite cold.
The fast train to the city is running again. It costs $10 and does not save much time over the normal train, but you get assigned seating and almost no one is on it, so I took it. The station was a desolate wasteland with no people, just the way I like my mega infrastructure.
Finding my hotel was a challenge. It is in amongst a sea of tiny hardware stores in alleyways, although it is just over the road from the sewer creek park and the main tourist bit of town as you shall see shortly. If you do not know what you want, I am sure this guy will have it anyway.
Here is the famous open drain park that I visit each time I come here, although I normally visit at night. Since it's 50m from my hotel I am sure there will be night shots of it during this visit as well. Look at the clear skies!
My travels took me to the huge international food market that is between Myeongdong and Dongdaemun. Everywhere is a market along this street but I think this is Gwangjang or Bangsan market.
Every food stall in the market sells exactly the same selection of food, which seems to be mandated by law somehow. Toilet paper is always provided.
The Dongdaemun gate, I am sure I have taken a photo of it before. It is part of the Seoul city wall, bits of it remain in a few spots, but nothing like the wall around nearby Suwon that I went to on my last trip.
Nearby is a shoe market. Nothing but shoes. Miles and miles of shoes. Who buys these no brand shoes? Everyone seems to line up for $500 Nikes, even 100 year old women who cart folded bits of cardboard for a living on their hunchback.
OK, here's more sewer park, but note the buildings on the left, there are a lot more behind me too. These are above things like the shoe market, umbrella market, wedding dress market etc. I presume a lot of stuff was actually made on site many years ago, I doubt much is made on site these days. They all look like places where a lot of people would die in a fire.
Soon after I arrived at the Dongdaemun design plaza, a place I have also been to before, but it makes for great photos. I thought there might be some Autumn leaves.
I pulled off the stance early on this time! I could have gone lower. It looks like my wondrous hair is windswept but in reality its just filled with 2 days of whatever people exhale while seated in a metal tube in the sky.
More Dongdaemun. I do not need to look it up to know its Zaha Hadid. I checked, it is. Basically a design by Zaha Hadid is like the monorail on The Simpsons at this point, Asian cities think they need one to prove something.
On my meander back in the direction of my hotel, I started to notice that perhaps the leaves are not at their peak yet. These Japanese style ones are mainly green still. Although there were also bigger trees with very big yellow leaves making a mess everywhere.
And finally, my adequately equipped, competitively priced, well located hotel room, It is called Hotel Nafore.
A brief walk around Insadong
A rare third update in a single day.
I am not even tired, this is concerning.
I did 35,000 steps today on no sleep, also concerning.
For the first time in a long time I was out after dark, OMG, as a reverse vampire, this can be dangerous.
I did not go far as I was already beyond the level of steps that are generally considered wise on basically no sleep, but I did find a great dinner, a field of flowers, shops, lights, and then a roof garden.
Brief update is brief, now for some photos of the night.
This is the guitar wholesale market. Earlier I posted the shoe market etc. I went to this place years ago. I wonder if it is still as popular as it once was, Korea was the place to make guitars when Japan became too expensive, now Korea is too expensive and most guitars are made in China or Indonesia.
My wanderings took me to the royal residence. It appears to be a recreation. It is also free, and therefore, I was happy to go in and complain that it was a bit boring and not worth my money.
The aforementioned sea of flowers. I think its a pop up sea as it appears to be a recently demolished deconstruction site (does that make sense?). The flowers were past their best, but I still thought it was impressive, and quite a few people were wandering around posing for photos with dead flowers. The photo does a good job at hiding the all the flopped over dead brown flowers.
Nearby is Insadong, which is where every tourist goes to buy trinkets. There are some new shops in this area. Also cartoon characters in some kind of temple welcoming everyone to offer a prayer for great success in making purchases.
I found a good pork bibimbap for dinner in one of many GRAND OPEN! places in a new looking shopping centre. It was delicious, and not too huge. The Melbourne ones I like are very large serves, and I never realise until it is too late.
I started mixing it together before I remembered to take the photo.
The mall in Insadong seemed a lot longer and mysterious at night. I have only ever been in the day before.
And finally, as I got in the lift in my hotel I saw it said roof garden, and who can resist a roof garden? Here is the view from said roof garden. That's all for now, hiking tomorrow probably, most likely a shorter 'warm up' hike.
There are currently 6 comments - click to add
bobule on 2022-11-04 said:
your hair looks great! bibimbap also!
山雪 on 2022-11-04 said:
你的晚餐太好吃了。
David on 2022-11-04 said:
Wealthiest most poshest area full of the bourgeoisie seeking to control the proletariat
adriana on 2022-11-04 said:
No carpet in Korea. I see you have new pants. So are you in an old poor area or what?
David on 2022-11-04 said:
Maybe it's seasonal, maybe they gave up, all the gardens were dead in May, they at least have some plants in them now
Mummy on 2022-11-03 said:
So where have all the butterflies gone ? There used to be heaps
Short hike over Bulamsan from Hwarangdae station to Danggogae station
First hike of this trip so it was time to consult my list of possible hiking locations and find one suitable.
I wanted it to be sort of short, to be a warm up and to get used to my new Altra Lone Peak boots which I wear exclusively as if they pay me, and because long flights cause my feet to swell and everything else to be just generally not at 100%.
The weather is great, I thought it would feel much colder so I put on a Uniqlo Heat Tech skivvy thing under a long sleeved shirt, and I was too hot. I will have to re think this, it is actually supposed to be warmer in upcoming days.
My route was over a small military hardened mountain from one subway station to another. It being a Saturday I selected a location that does not rate much of a mention online thinking it would not have many people. It had thousands. I wonder how many millions might be at the more well known national parks today?
The ascent was very smooth and easy, but the path down was precarious, surprisingly so, with not many people at all, most of whom presumably doubled back the same way they came up. At one point with big rocks I lost the trail completely, but there were 4 Korean guys there who had also become lost, we shrugged and pointed and agreed we were lost, so we all back tracked together and then kind of made our own path that involved sliding on my ass more than I expected to today.
Now as I often say, warm up your scrolling finger because it is all BORING mountain hiking pics, top tip, learn to use the page down key so you can skip past them even faster!
The path from Hwarangdae station to the start of the hike follows what is called a railway park, which seems to be some old train lines along the footpath next to the road.
I thought it would be hard to find the start of this hike, but no, it has a gate, and is very popular.
There are lots of rest points along the way, and quite a few people brought their pocket dogs with them, can you see the dog?
My peaks for today are just beyond that ridge. This is the lowest amount of pollution I have ever seen in Seoul.
Much of the path was fenced in, sometimes on both sides, with the usual military signs, land mine warnings. I could hear some guns firing, bursts of 3 shots, which suggests it was the military, possibly North Korean invaders shooting hikers.
Lots of people all the way up today, which made public urination more public than is generally acceptable.
The whole path had these military pill box things every 100 metres or so. These are abandoned, there were more behind the fence with power and air conditioning.
Across the valley is Bukhansan National Park, which is where my first hike on my May trip took place. I might be back there in coming days.
The fences stopped eventually and it became a really nice hike, lots of view points, a bit of colour.
Nearly at the top, the final bit of the ascent is too steep unless you have abseiling gear, so they have provided a staircase.
There was a lot of rock scrambling, especially on the way down, these ones are very grippy though, I hate it when they are fine loose gravel.
The proper summit had too many people. I opted against the covid encrusted rope to pull myself to the top with the crowd of people saluting the flag.
Time to start heading down, the tricky way. That mountain across there is Suraksan, which I have climbed on a previous trip. I thought this would be photo of the day but the light is kind of weird.
My goal is the train station down there, it is much steeper to get down than anticipated, the stair cases stopped!
Almost back at the bottom and you can see the peak sticking up, if you zoom in to the full res version you should be able to see some people abseiling in a pink jacket.
Last photo for today, taken from the moving train on my way back with the mountains I traversed in the background.
Exploring the Konkuk University nightlife area
Tonight I went somewhere I have never been in Seoul before. In fact an entire region of Seoul I have never been to before.
Most University areas are also nightlife areas, this is especially true for Konkuk. I saw this one night on YouTube, one of the many videos by 'Seoul Walker' who just wanders around Korea making high quality footage and streaming it to YouTube, sometimes live. I think he gets paid by places in Korea to do it now, so there you go, watching his videos sent me to Konkuk to spend a few of my precious dollars on dinner.
The area is famous for its China street, which is actually two streets. Somewhat interesting is there is a definite China side and non China side divided by the above ground subway line, tonight I sided with China. This differs from an actual Chinatown, I guess because it is not actually a government designated area for Chinatown related activities such as Mahjong, opium smoking and real estate investing.
The entire area is nice (both sides) and was starting to get really busy just as I left. Food options were plentiful. Oh and I guess it was also the return of photos of neon taken by standing in a crowd and holding my camera above my head trying to guess when it is straight and ensuring I am holding it still enough to press the shutter. Astute readers will recall when I was here earlier in the year the sun was still up at my bed time, which dulls the sweet sweet glow of neon lights, somewhat.
I arrived on the scene right on dusk. The subway line is above ground here. This reminded me a lot of a particular area of Taipei, where if there is no war, I will be in late April 2023.
These are all tarot reading booths set up on the road. And this is not all of them, there are hundreds of them stretching for at least a kilometre. Weird. The woman looked at her cards, looked into my eyes, and simply said 'I got nothing', which was strange because when I walked in she said 'No speak English!'
I initially walked past all the neon, to go to the very last Tarot card reader, and am now making my way back.
This place looked very inviting so I went downstairs and asked them what sort of activities go on in here, they said nothing at all, so I just said, OK bye, and left.
My bladder bested me, so I went into the nearby Lotte department store basement to use the facilities, the food options here for dinner all looked great, but not tonight!
Ahhh yes. Lanzhou style beef noodle soup. Tasted authentic. I spoke Chinese with the girl when I paid, she started it, the menu was in Korean so when I ordered from her I pointed and said Lanzhou La Mian cause I obviously have no idea how to say that in Korean. She then assumed I was a native Chinese speaker. I had to tell her to speak slowly but we understood enough of each other, she seemed amused that a strange looking Australian was speaking Chinese to her in Korea. That's my Chinese flex over for this trip, I will leave it to my mother to type 'your dinner looks good' using google translate in the comments :troll:.
I stopped traffic to take this photo. I was again reminded of an area of Taiwan, except there are not enough scooters here.
And after all of the above, this sign is super apt.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
bobule on 2022-11-07 said:
souper!
adriana on 2022-11-05 said:
I see beans are in season
David on 2022-11-05 said:
Very good amenities, they all have parks and shops at the bottom, looks like childcare centres, and piano lesson places
jenny on 2022-11-05 said:
Photo of the day is the next one. lots of suburbs with high rise apartment buildings. I wonder what kind of amenities they have.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
bobule on 2022-11-04 said:
Yes! I am already gripped. Good luck!
Mountain snow on 2022-11-03 said:
The snow on the mountain is pure and beautiful. I am not a mountain. I am snow.
David on 2022-11-03 said:
are the characters for your name back to front? normally its snow mountain, not mountain snow?
山雪 on 2022-11-03 said:
非常 喜欢 去 韩国。 我 也 想 去