Dobongsan to Uijeongbu
Today I did a hike I have done before. Well, I have done the first bit before with the death defying hand rails and opportunities for plummeting.
Getting to the start point, at Dobongsan station, took a bit longer than I anticipated. First of all the train I was on just stopped and threw everyone off. It is a very long line so some of the trains do not go all the way.
Then I missed the next train as I was not sure if a limited express would stop where I was going, and then while I was figuring that out the all stops train went past on another platform. So this all added about 30 minutes onto the journey.
Once off the second train, and it is suburb all about hiking. All the roads leading up to the start point are lined with the usual North Face, Black Yak, Columbia etc hiking shops as well as cafes and old women selling tomatoes.
It was a weekday, I dare not go here on the weekend as it would be chaos which I will explain in the pics, but despite that, it was still pretty busy, at least at first.
Once you get past the hand rail rocky road at the top of the main peak, there are numerous options to continue on, and a lot less people.
The hike took just over 5 hours, but was not very far, only 14km, and only 25,000 steps. Obviously the climbing over the rocks with the hand rails takes quite a while.
I did all I could to cull pics, but there are still quite a few!
Minor update: if you want to see a lot more photos of handrails on Dobongsan, you can go to the home page, click search, click the tag for Dobongsan and have a look at my previous visit in 2015.
There is Dobongsan, in all it's rocky massif glory. It is part of Bukhansan national park to the north of Seoul. Dobongsan is in the northern part of the national park, but Seoul still extends a lot further north as you shall see.
As expected, the shrine. There was none at the end of the hike today, but there are many hermitages all through the park. No matter how remote they are, they seem to have enough loud speakers and electricity to generate deafening feedback with the low throat rumbling screams echoing across the mountains.
The first bit is a footpath alongside a stream. I do what I can to hide the fact it is a bitumen footpath.
Look closely and you can see how lucky I am to still be alive. A small black panther was stalking me.
At this stage, probably already using the hand rails and trying to take a photo without getting them in the photo, and without falling.
A series of hand rails to the top. Honestly, not that dangerous, it would be hard to slip as you always have 3 points of contact. Some of the gravel and leaf covered downward sloping rocky steps are far more dangerous.
I passed a girl on my way down one of the sections having a panic attack, sitting down, holding on with her eyes closed crying. She had 2 other people with her, not sure what you can do at that point other than get over it...
Some great rocky views, although Seoul was mostly covered in pollution haze. The hand rail sections extend for a few hundred metres, and often you are going down rock faces with metal pegs hammered into them, so photos are impossible. On the weekends, with hundreds of people coming in each direction, this would be... uncomfortable.
Seoul extends further north, of the left side of this pic, but it gets narrow between these two mountain ranges in the area of city shown in this pic.
I believe I climbed over all of those using the hand rails. But I appear to have culled most of the pics that feature the rails. Today's word of the day, rail.
Time for one of these. Stance shot was not going to happen today, not enough flat area to put the camera down and stand far enough away.
Looking back in the direction I came, most of the people are gone by this point. I realise now the most interesting bits I could not photograph as it was too dangerous to let go.
Next peak over has a little forest fire monitoring hut. If you notice a fire you basically have time to phone it in before you get burnt.
This smaller peak is at the very northern end of the national park, I believe it is called Sapaesan. I suspect most of these people have come up a direct path from a temple that I circled around to extend my hike. A grandma saw me go past and called me a handsome boy.
The way down had many giant rocks to go past, and the usual leaf covered paths. Not a lot of colour to gawk at today.
Instead of coming out at a shrine, I came out in a little street with bars and cafes, and a dog wearing aircraft wings with jets on them.
I expected to come out into some ramshackle mud huts. No, giant brand new, not even 'grand opening' yet apartment buildings.
This area of Seoul has a monorail running a loop around it. Before now I thought it was a tram, I have never been here before.
And final pic, I did not expect to stumble into a giant Shinsagae department store on top of the subway station at Uijeongbu. There was also a very large labyrinthine underground shopping mall that I got lost in looking for the train.
Usual warnings about tonight, I am unlikely to go far so the pics will be bland and in short supply.
A short walk to a familiar meal
Short update will be short.
I have now had Abiko curry 3 times on this trip.
1st time at the Lotte young store, vegetarian, super spicy, and it was pretty spicy.
2nd time, in Gwangju, and I got the super spicy with pork and vegetarian blend and it was not spicy at all.
3rd time, back to the Lotte young, vegetarian super spicy, and it was quite spicy again.
Adding pork to it in Gwangju did not really add much, so vegetarian is superior. And my official verdict, the outlet on level 7 of a Seoul department store annex building is superior to a street level outlet in the suburb of Sangmu in Gwangju.
My research has been exhaustive.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day... I have no plan.
A nearby hotel does a lot of lights in trees. Really hard to photograph it in any sort of a meaningful way.
There is a roof garden, with no view, despite that they have put some statues up suggesting it is a good location for a wedding proposal. I proposed to me myself and I, all 3 turned me down.
As often happens after a hiking day, I was feeling a bit shaky, so time for some proper food, curry it was, if you read the above nonsense you already knew that was coming. The things on the right are garlic flakes.
Myeongdong is now all lit up for xmas, and pretty busy. A big contrast to when I was here earlier in the year and it was completely dead.
Last pic, the Shinsagae has taken xmas lights to the next level with a full wrap around video screen coordinated with all the lights in trees and on the road and in the sky nearby. Sadly, the store location is not particularly conducive to people being able to see it. Either side of here there are police buses parked on the road, which leaves just this little window between subway entrance for people to cram against the rail and give each other covid.
Seoul forest park
Rest day today despite the glorious weather.
I wanted to go for a decent walk, this is hard when walking on streets in Korea, because the crossings take about 20 minutes to turn into a green man and you will be shot for jay walking. Really, it is extraordinary how long you will need to wait to cross a road. Every intersection seems to have a green arrow for each direction as well as the green light to go straight ahead, so instead of waiting for 1 light cycle like you would in Australia, you have to wait for 3. And the 3 are really long. And no one knows what I am going on about. So a park is a good idea.
The Seoul forest park was opened in 2008 by Chinese Communist Party chairman at the time, Hu Jintao. I am not making that up!
It is actually 4 parks, that have taken over some ruins and surround the sewage treatment plant. It is nice enough, but a lot of it was dead at this time of year, and some entire areas like the butterfly house and insect house are closed until January.
After my park, I plotted a long walk, all underground, along Korea's longest underground walkway that spans 5 stations. An easy way to get an extra 7,000 steps.
Getting to the park was along the elevated line 2. Well, elevated where you get off anyway. Quite near the Konkuk university where I went early on during this trip.
This sign confirmed I was in the right place, I was confused because it looked like a sewage treatment plant.
There is an area with deer to throw stuff at from an overhead bridge. You cannot walk among the deer like in Nara or Miyajima in Japan. Birds ride around on the back of deer. I had no zoom, this is the best I could do.
This bridge out of the park faces an area of Seoul I am not familiar with. Smaller places on the side of a hill.
The special wheat area of the park. Every park has such an area. There was also a bamboo area of course.
I am standing under the pine planted by Hu Jintao to take this pic of a solitary pine in a field of dead grass.
Next up, I wanted to go visit a special shopping area constructed out of shipping containers, which is called common ground. This is an impostor! It is also made of shipping containers but is not common ground.
Here is common ground. I read this is the largest shopping complex made out of shipping containers... in the world! But this is pretty much the whole thing?
The upper levels are all little restaurants and bars. Nice enough spot, but I feel as though given a week I could construct a larger one myself.
WHAT??? A challenger to Abiko curry has appeared. I thought about having it for lunch, but alas, did not. A true coco vs abiko comparison battle is unlikely to eventuate.
One thing you often see in Korea is porridge stores. I had it once years ago, it was quite bland... like porridge! The risotto fusion thing I had the other night is inspired by this, but adds flavour.
Now to start the underground journey from Dongdaemun station to City Hall station (where my hotel is). Someone else who did this measured it as 5.04km... To aide my mother who cares about such things, this is the distance from your house, to the casino, walking along Payneham road. The first area by Dongdaemun which used to be a sporting stadium, is predictably, a mile of sporting good shops.
Sometimes they put some tools on display with safety vests in case you are working underground and need them.
Areas are quite busy, with many side tunnels that join on to other subway lines full of grids of shops, if that is your thing. The good part is you never cross a road, so it is very fast. Of course not as fast as riding the subway just below your feet who's path you are following.
Near the end, the unwise installation of piano key stairs that play the note you step on. Me like I suspect everyone else, tried to play a tune by leaping 5 or 6 steps at a time. It was hard work but I managed to crank out twinkle twinkle. OK that's enough pics for now.
From City Hall to Hongdae on foot
Do other cities have women's universities? They are everywhere in Seoul. What goes on in them? Do they teach you how to walk around with a book on your head? One thing I know, wherever there is a women's university there is a large shopping and eating area. Also shops selling traditional hanbok outfits and wedding dresses...
Tonight I passed 3 women's universities.
The walk from City Hall to Hongdae was not particularly far, I followed subway line 2 the whole way. My journey amazingly (to me) set off down a major road I had never been down before, purely because it is hard to get to via the pedestrian crossing across the road (see previous rant). This then took me to many interesting areas, one of which I will probably return to on one of my 4 remaining nights.
Once I got to Hongdae I was surprised it was not busier. It is generally thought of as the busiest place, last time I went on a Saturday afternoon I think.
The problem for me as always was, as a solo diner the places are not suitable, and they do not want to give up a table for one strange foreigner when they are made for a minimum of 4 people. This is why I don't eat Korean bbq in Korea, it is not possible on your own. However, eventually I found something great.
Tomorrow is a hiking day. I have planned a shorter hike, but it is far away. It is Saturday so any of the popular trails closer to the city are too busy for me to cope with.
A level crossing near the centre of Seoul? That is unexpected. I know Tokyo has quite a few that are very annoying, but this is the first I have seen in Seoul. It is not for the actual metro, it might be for a slow passenger train to somewhere, or it might be for freight. Not pictured here, but it does require a guard box with 3 guys carrying glowing red waving wands to wave when the gate comes down.
My journey was going in this direction, at sunset. Actually if I was a bit earlier, those buildings glowed bright orange for a while.
I have seen a few book shops like this. Similar concept to shoe shops. Just pile more of everything everywhere. If it rains, cover it all in a tarp. No one steals anything, but it makes browsing impossible. Somewhere inside there's a guy under the pile that died a few years ago.
First I saw a level crossing, now graffiti, in Seoul! Unheard of. This is a very nice part of town too!
Looks like I missed the main part of Hongdae with the live performance areas, here is a tight alleyway instead.
My dinner. This is not a pork cutlet. It is a combo beef and pork and minced vegetable crumbed rissole. It was really good. The sauce was very spicy, and then there is also wasabi. Real wasabi with the dryer texture.
This dork decided to drive his Ferrari down the pedestrian street in Hongdae. I brushed against it on purpose.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
bobule on 2022-12-06 said:
Dinner looked great!
David on 2022-11-26 said:
Between $10 and $12, same as Japan
adriana on 2022-11-25 said:
Nice area HOngdae. How much do you usually spend on dinner? Cheaper or dearer than Japan?
Brian on 2022-11-25 said:
Interesting shopping area and the shipping container area
mother on 2022-11-25 said:
Thanks for the distance details. I would like to walk that underground.
Soyosan hike
Today I did a small hike practically on the North Korean border with the easiest to pronounce name of any mountain in Korea - Soyosan.
Getting there and back took forever. Getting there took over 2 hours, that is longer than it takes to go to Busan on the bullet train. Getting back took just under 2 hours. Ridiculous... The entire journey was on the subway, which in Seoul goes a really... long... way...
I must admit when it was 10am and I was just starting a hike, with a thousand other people, I wondered if it was worth it today, but it was. Yes there were plenty of sections with too many other people, as photographed below, but there were still enough sections with no one, the scenery was good, the weather was cold but good, and it was a bit shorter than my normal hikes to compensate for the long slow stopping all stations train rides.
By shorter I mean just on 10km, 19,000 steps.
It is getting late and I need to go out and fight 200,000 protesters who are back as they are every Saturday and find my dinner, so onto the pics.
You know you are in a popular hiking area when there is a street fall of unofficial shops selling shoes, tomatoes and vacuum cleaners.
What!!! I have to pay a $2 fine to get in to the hike. Outrageous. I would later find out I did not need to pay.
I selected the longest possible loop, which thinned out the people, but still there were many people.
With the goat behind me, time to examine where I would be going, around to the right then back over that, then around the left.
Top of summit number one. Too many people. Later I would pass a group of at least 100 coming the other way.
You can do a very long hike from here as a starting or end point. It is the end point of a 50km trail running race.
Then, this happened. And I had to follow them slowly for over an hour until they stopped for one of a few 3 course meals Koreans like to have on every hike.
OK, here is the reason for the $2 fee. And there is a path to avoid it. Apparently, it is a significant cultural heritage site.
The shrine is not quite the end of the hike and does not get you back at the road, but it is a very developed path back down from here, with a mobile phone tower for the monks to watch star wars etc.
Last pic, a waterfall and a cave. I think there is another waterfall cave combo elsewhere with the waterfall inside a cave. I saw some glass doors leading into the rock face with candles inside and the map said waterfall. Which is probably what a lot of people come here to see.
Now to navigate the protest and find my dinner.
Saturday night in Seoul
Either there was no protest or by the time I went out at 6pm they had packed up and gone home. There were thousands of police with coloured waving wands, and riot shields, but no protesters. I heard patriotic music and people yelling the same word in groups of 3 before I went out but it all seemed to have come to a sudden halt.
Maybe Korea is playing in the world cup again.
So instead of charging through a protest I just wandered around the local area, and got turned away from many restaurants, because they were closing! Closing time for a lot of places seemed to be 8pm. I normally eat before then, but due to train rides taking a long time today my whole schedule was off.
Of course, all the bars and beer halls and plastic chair yabby eating establishments do not even open until 10pm, so it is not like there is nowhere to eat, there is just a cutover from first dinner to drunk dinner.
At first my goal was to avoid the protest, so I went underground and came up by the department stores. The other night I showed the Shinsagae xmas lights, tonight Lotte. Shinsagae is the easy winner.
Here are the plastic chair outdoor yabby eating places. I think thats what they eat anyway, some kind of shellfish. Whatever they eat, it seems to be a late night only activity.
I found myself at the famous stream, and decided to head along at stream level towards the protest area, where I confirmed it was all over.
This is a church. The building serves no purpose other than to show all the other churches that this church has more money than they do.
And for my after 8pm dinner that was not fried chicken or Korean bbq, Yukgaejang. Basically a spicy beef based soup, but I got the extra variety of mushrooms version. Apparently, a cuisine from the royal court. So now I am royal.
No hiking tomorrow, no plan, yeah.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2022-11-26 said:
So many Koreans brainwashed into the religious bullshit = rich churches.
jenny on 2022-11-26 said:
You must have strong ankles with all that rocky terrain to traverse.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2022-11-24 said:
我喜欢天桥
David on 2022-11-24 said:
monorail goes in a pretty small circle, I walked past a fair bit of it between the mountain and the train station
mother on 2022-11-24 said:
the rocks look like they have been cut into huge blocks in the past possibly for castle ramparts. You should go for a ride on the monorail to see where it goes.