Gwangju to Daejeon on the KTX
It seemed to take forever to get here. The train journey in total was only 2 hours. Foolishly I got to the station in Gwangju 2 hours early and there was not a lot to see or do at that station. Changing trains in Osong was a race to the right platform and right place on the right platform or miss the train. Arriving in Daejeon was a subway ride and arriving at my hotel was a case of find the power point and mess around to get the internet to work. But now I am here. I have a huge room with a kitchen and washing machine in a 'Residence' hotel which is more like a Quest or Meriton in Australia.
So this was a procedural update with just the facts. Knight Rider is on TV so thats a plus.
With my train not leaving until 1:30pm I had heaps of time for a long walk around Gwangju in the morning. Here is a view from a convenient overpass.
Here is the outside of the GwangjuSongJeong station. They like to do it as one word. It is the main bullet train station in Gwangju.
A unique opportunity to photograph the track geometric inspection car. I kind of thought these were obsolete, bullet trains are effectively all doing this all the time, measuring the distance between the tracks, temperature, height, wear etc by analyzing data from the train wheels. I read a whole thing about it in relation to the Chinese network.
I had to change in Osong and then a short ride back to Daejeon. I think there is a different Daejeon station on the line I was on, but that station is not connected to the subway, so a change of bullet trains is more convenient.
And finally, my very well equipped hotel room. It has a kitchen, a pull out kitchen bench, 3 different desk areas, and a washer dryer. As I mentioned, it is designed for business people that might be working here longer term. Now to find out where I am exactly, I am staying in a different part of Daejeon to the last time I was here.
Dunsan in Daejeon
I need to compare notes to the last time I was here, so let me do that quickly by hitting search on my website and clicking on Daejeon.
OK, last time I was here I wrote about missing the actual city centre until fairly late in my stay. I stayed in the west near the hot springs, and generally headed to the far east to the train station, missing the new part of the city in the middle.
This time I am staying in the new part of the city in the middle.
Last time when I visited the new part of the city in the middle it did not look as new as it does now, I suspect some of the new parts are now ever newer.
I am glad we got that out of the way.
I am confident I saw most of Gwangju, and I am now also confident that the new part of Daejeon is just generally more modern looking than Gwangju. More finance less arty. More mall less Korean Tiananmen Square massacre equivalent memorial.
Well that is my first impression of my second visit to Daejeon. I am good at talking in circles.
Today was the weakest day of pics.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, but I do not want to go to the national park on a Saturday, so now I must choose a secondary less busy option and leave the national park for Monday.
Here is a shiny new mall. I do not think it was here when I was last here. If it was I did not take a photo of it and I feel as though I would have. I certainly included some photos of surrounding streets last time.
The streets around my hotel are bright and colourful. But quiet as it is still early on a Friday. Korea is a very late country, street stalls often do not start up until 9pm.
Another example of a modern looking street. The pedestrian crossings are a bit of a nightmare though.
And for my dinner, I did not go straight to the Galleria basement, although I did walk through there and I am sure I will end up there at some point. Instead I went for some Korean / Hawaiian fusion with the bulgogi poke. Such healthy.
Final pic for this evening, I wandered away from the city centre and enjoyed the tree lighting with lasers that lined most streets.
Bomunsan and Sikjangsan
As I think I mentioned, today was a hiking day, but I did not want to go to the national park as that is a bus ride and it would be too busy on a Saturday. So instead, I had to pick from two smaller mountains to climb over, then I just thought to myself, why not both? That turned into 19km and 35,000 steps. Good times.
There were a few challenges along the way that I shall explain with the photos, of which there are too many again today, to make up for yesterday.
Weather is still fantastic.
Subway story time, I managed to offend 2 old ladies. I had a seat next to me, 2 old ladies got on, I stood up for them, they must have assumed I was getting off at the next station, they sat down. Soon they realised I was not getting off, and they got offended and tried to make me re take the seat. This was a test, I was not going to fall for it! They stood up and kept almost falling over and demanding I sit down. So my only option was to walk through to the next subway car. If I had of sat down, I would be on Korean tv, rude sketchy looking foreigner makes elderly war veteran stand up for her on subway.
I chose a starting point, one of 50, from near a subway station. It had signs, it was on the map, it also had signs saying private property keep out (I translated using my phone). I went through this mini farm anyway and walked through cabbages and farmer rubbish to get to here.
This sign says the way that I came up is no longer a hiking trail. Too bad the signs pointing up to here were still in place.
Bomunsan was the first hike of the two. It is very popular, and there are some roads going to different bits that you can avoid if you want. I painstakingly looked at my map to avoid the roads. Good views of the city for most of this hike even if it was through the trees.
The actual trail was not too colourful today, mostly just brown and pine. Here is a rare glimpse of colour.
Hmm, I thought all these graves in the forest were ancient historically significant sites. These 2 look like they were buried yesterday. And in a kind of weird spot with no view. So my pro tip, if you need to dispose of a body in Korea, just head up the nearest hill and cover them in a bit of dirt and shove some plastic flowers on the mound.
Here you can see mountain number 2 on the right in the distance, Sikjangsan, with the antennas on top. More antenna photos soon.
Nice view further up the valley, all mountains. This is nowhere near the national park which is on completely the opposite side of Daejeon.
I had selected paths down to get me from Bomunsan to a point fairly close to Sikjangsan, only to find the paths were closed for re vegetation purposes. So instead I slid down some leafy steep cliffs into this farm area.
Getting near the top, that is Bomunsan that I had just come up and down across the way there. I am talking like an old person.
View in another direction, that lake looks interesting... Somewhere in those hills is the pilgrimage clay road I walked a lap of last time. I did it with shoes on, once a year they flood it somehow and do it in bare feet.
A view from lower down. I did not go the way I planned, I ended up using some forestry tracks because the trail I wanted seemed to no longer exist.
A remote forest fire detection robot. It speaks to you as you go past. I can neither confirm nor deny that I urinated on it.
A quick visit to Daejeon Lotte for dinner
It was not a long outing this evening but it was illuminating. I stumbled onto some lights in a park that are one of many festivals the local Daejeon government are trying. If you read the wikitravel page for Daejeon it has a few other festivals listed that have been tried and failed on the first attempt, with the posters advertising it as the 1st annual event still on billboards on the outskirts of town from years ago.
After being illuminated I headed to the other department store for a predictable dinner location. Getting there was also quite illuminating, all the streets were filled with modern style shops. Daejeon city centre is quite large.
I do not know what Seogu is or why it needs healing with lights strung in a park. I think I prefer not to know so I can make up a ridiculous reason in my head. I dare not type it here in case Seogu means something horrible. OK I checked, Seogu is just the name of the district the lights are in. Why does it need to be healed? So many mysteries.
The Lotte store is a couple of km away from the main bit of the city, but it is all still shops and city in between. I think the shopping and eating area of central Daejeon is long and narrow.
I found the former premier of South Australia and he now owns a coffee shop in Daejeon. I stopped in to say hi. Except I cannot picture what he looks like so I have no idea if it was him. Was Dean Brown a middle aged Korean guy?
And finally, in the spirit of fairness, last night was the Samsung store, tonight their competitor, the LG store.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, allegedly.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2022-11-20 said:
sometimes I have a banana
sometimes I have yoghurt or fruit salad
Not much else unless it is a bakery sandwich lunch day.
mother on 2022-11-19 said:
What do you eat other than dinner and energy bars?
adriana on 2022-11-19 said:
sunrise photo is my favourite
Hanbat arboretum and world expo site
Today's rest day was very similar to a rest day I enjoyed in Daejeon last time I was here. I went to the Hanbat arboretum and looked at dead brown leaves and then went to the former world expo site and turned left instead of right like last time and went to a Shinsegae instead of golf world.
Korea is surely the king of world expos, and I do not get it.
When I was here in June I went to the former world expo site in Yeosu, and it is already rusty and falling down. Busan is currently competing with other great cities such as Tashkent in Uzbekistan and Gomel in Belarus by busting BTS out of the military to stage a concert to promote their bid. And back in 1993 it was Daejeon's turn, so long ago the city was still called Taejeon. Everyone surely remembers the lasting impression the wondrous event had on establishing them a place in the world's hierarchy of great cities.
Update: As I was sitting here typing this, the fire alarm went off, the manager came into my room pretty much straight away and asked me if I was smoking. He checked the alarm panel and said it was not me, apologised and left, I had no pants on but you know, I rarely do.
About 3 minutes later I heard full on yelling and doors being slammed. Then 10 minutes later I heard sirens, looked out my window, cop car arrived, then more yelling and scuffling in the hallway. So I presume they found someone smoking, who decided to fight the manager, and so the cops came and arrested him.
Here is the art museum. There is a smaller building with a tin roof next to it called the general population art museum.
I remember this sliding on rails aircraft hanger thing from last time. It is under refurbishment, those are rails on the ground. Last time there were teams of rollerbladers that were presumably practising for the winter Olympics ice skating here. This time, a few kids on bikes.
I need to check, but that is a department store, Shinsegae, and I do not think it was there last time. As you shall see it looks brand new inside. Very strange location. Land would have been cheap in the former expo park.
Convention centre. A lot of the expo buildings have optimistically been turned into various science research centres, things like future energy centre or advanced robotics centre, but I think they are actually empty.
This tower was the centre piece of the whole expo experience in 1993. They flood the bricks in front of it so you can reflect on how great a time that was for Daejeon.
The roof garden is really great. Over there is the science museum. I do not think I went there last time. It appears to have actual rockets! Probably the site of my next rest day activity.
The food area is vast, and strangely very busy at 11:30am on a Sunday. That is enough photos for now, I plan to do a longer walk this evening.
From Dunsanro to Jungangro
Tonight I walked from the new city where my hotel is, to the old city, where the train station is. It is not as far as I thought. No more than 5km.
Also I think I could say from Dunsan to Jungang, the ro on the end is probably optional, but then there is also gu, so pause for brief research. Ro means street, there are other versions of this such as gil, and gu means suburb. OK so that is now very clear.
Walking from Dunsan-ro in Seo-gu to Jungang-ro in Jung-gu was a largely boring walk, with only one of my now daily streams to appreciate. At one point I walked along an elevated highway over rubbish dump looking areas.
Once in the Jungang-ro area and it was very familiar, mainly because of the brought to you direct from every tier 2 to tier 88 city in mainland China LED roof. I will explain in the pics.
Here is the above mentioned elevated roof at the centre of Jungang-ro. If you google Daejeon you will probably see this. The shopping / eating area here is vibrant but compact. It was quite busy even on a Sunday. More so than the Gwangju equivalent.
These people are lined up to buy a panetone. You know, the things near the checkouts in Australian supermarkets for 6 months either side of xmas, a cake in a cardboard box.
This is generally how kimchi gets made, in the street by an old lady. This is why it is so good for healthy.
Jungang-ro also has a very large double lane underground mall under it. With a few offshoots in various directions. It has a fountain. Most of the shops with piles of shoes had piles of shoes.
And for my dinner, poor people food! I went to a Gimbap (Korean standard Korean menu Korean food place) and got the fried bits of dough with vegetables. You cannot really see it here but the vegetables under the seaweed are swimming in Gochujang. Sometimes this is actually more like dumplings rather than just dough, but obviously I selected a discount gimbap outlet.
Tomorrow, hiking in the national park day.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2022-11-20 said:
What is the homeless situation like in Korea. I see some blue tarps in your photos.
mother on 2022-11-20 said:
Bamboo doesn't die off in winter. That is one of the reasons it is a winter symbol in Japan.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2022-11-19 said:
Not as obese as me. It might be a gay club for fat men, they were keen for me to go in.
jenny on 2022-11-18 said:
What is the purpose of the fat naked men statues in the street? are Korean men becoming obese?
David on 2022-11-18 said:
They are a bit old on the inside too mostly. I am sure they bring new ones on line from time to time but they are all the same design. The nose on them folds away to join onto another one, many of them split into two halves in the middle of the country, similar to the Tokyo to Hakodate one that splits before Sendai
adriana on 2022-11-18 said:
Those bullet trains look a bit old.