Walking around the base of Namsan
Today was a morning of two halves.
First, I had no plan and briefly thought of going to Incheon Chinatown, where I have been to before. But it takes 1.5 hours to get there and it looked like it was about to rain. So I just started walking and found myself on the path around the bottom of the Seoul tower, with blue sky.
So my decision was made for me, I decided to walk a lap of the bottom of the park around the tower, and it was great. If you like photos of red leaves you will like today's photos.
THERE ARE TOILETS, it is about 18,000 steps all the way around. It is about 18 degrees today, and not raining yet, but I think it will soon. I think I have answered all my mothers questions? I was not wearing my shorts.
After completing my lap, it was a surprise challenge to get back to my hotel. Most of the city is shut down for political protests.
When I was last here it was election time, with the great 1 vs 2 battle. The red 2's beat the blue 1's, but as is now the case with democracy the world over, that means nothing. And now it is just non stop legal challenges, accusations of sodomy, and people going to jail for not winning, followed by the winner being overthrown and being put in jail for winning.
It was hard for me to get a photo of the main protest street, police were keen to direct me elsewhere, and they were only setting up as I went past as it will go well into the night, with half a million people expected. This happens every weekend, but it has been getting bigger and bigger each week. If they succeed in forcing another election, then what? Same thing again but the two sides change spots on the official protest street?
Oh look, the worlds most valuable company who sold every western government a vaccine that is not a vaccine and the promise of stop the spread that did nothing of the sort, and yet did not refund anyone any of the money they took. Remember when we were told that taking the Pfizer vaccine would stop us from getting COVID? Remember the government telling us the sooner we get the shot the sooner it would all be over? Pfizer knew none of that was true and charged the world trillions of dollars and no one lost their job over the lies. Why didn't they just say from the start, it is not a vaccine, but it will stop you from dying even though you will still get covid. I have had 4 Pfizer shots so far but I did not get what I paid for. I still got COVID. And before anyone tells me they are free, no they cost me more than they cost most people because I pay all my taxes. The value of the Pfizer company doubled during COVID, that's my money! Japan just started their 8th wave, Korea is on wave 5, Australia is on wave 4. The Pfizer tactic was to lie and defend the lie to the point where people forgot what they paid for. It has worked great for them.
And to reiterate before anyone chimes in and accuses me of being an anti vaxxer, I have had 4 shots, I will have more, I want there to be an actual vaccine, I will line up for it, I get a flu vaccine and I would pay for a common cold vaccine. A vaccine is defined as "a substance used to stimulate the production of antibodies and provide immunity against one or several diseases", it is not a substance to reduce the severity of a disease.
But Pfizer, they ripped off the entire world and got away with it.
After a coffee to get going, I found some leaves and decided to investigate, still not knowing where I was going.
There is the tower. The signs show all the different woodpeckers you might see. I have seen and heard lots on my hikes.
I left the trail briefly to go look at the national 1000 year time capsule. I guess time capsules have fallen out of favour with the internet now being an archive of everything including what I had for lunch today.
Sometimes you have the option of leaving the road thing (which is closed to cars) and going on a trail. The problem with the trail is too many slow walkers on the weekend.
Korea relies on Russia for oil and are worried the USA will stop them from buying it, so they are investing heavily in alternate sources of power.
I am basically finished at this point. There is one last shot of the tower. Under the shed are some ancient ruins, better go investigate more closely.
Even though this is only a couple of hundred metres from the normal entrance to the steps up to the tower that I have been up and down 10 times, I had no idea this wall and alternate way up were even here.
OK, it is protest time. These are weather balloons. They tie banners between two of them and attach them to trucks to float the big banners in the sky.
Down the main avenue between the palace and city hall it is all people dressed in red, but I think they are anti government despite the red side being in government. I could be wrong about this! But there were lots more red protesters than blue, they appear to be organised by the union they belong to? You can see big speakers hanging from the crane, this went for kilometres.
A smaller section of blue protesters closer to the palace. The police kept telling me to get lost, which was fine when it was the traffic cop looking guys, but once the all black uniform guys with guns started telling me I decided to leave.
But everywhere I went there was another protest! For all I know these smaller ones, which are still blocking an entire street with their stage setup, might be protesting fishing rights, or better access to kim chi.
I was sent around in a circle a couple of times looking for a path to my hotel, so I stopped for lunch. It is rare that I have an actual lunch that is not muesli bars while hiking. I still have some of that muffin on my face.
As I got further away from the main avenue the protests became less organised. But still disruptive, with temporary fences and cops blocking ways across the road.
I found the best way was to go down to the sewer walk, which is on the left of this pic. Here is a weaker protest group, sitting on the ground like school kids. That is enough photos for now! Maybe later I will get water canon'd.
Seoul station to Gongdeok
9th day in Korea and it is the first day with any rain. It should be gone by morning and then no more rain on the forecast. Hopefully that stays true.
The rain killed the protests. The need to not get your hair wet out weighs the need for political change.
Of course I have no concerns about getting my hair wet, because my hair is awesome, so when I planned to go somewhere undercover then noticed after a while that it was not really raining, I just set out in a random direction and hoped for the best.
It turned out ok, I only got mildly wet, went to a different part of town (Gongdeok) and found my dinner.
Due to rain and my non waterproof, dust magnet of a camera, not many photos tonight.
Tomorrow I go to Gwangju, it takes a couple of hours on the bullet train. My train is not until later as the check in time at the hotel seems to be 4pm.
The inside of the Seoul main station was quite busy. I went here because there an extensive underground shopping and restaurant network attached.
There are not many trains in the station. My train tomorrow does not leave from here, it leaves from the very nearby Yongsan station. I think the departure station depends on if you are heading South East or South West. It is probably a trap for young players if you are not aware.
I set off down a random road. It was quiet, on the wrong side of the station. It did not rain on me too much.. I have a high tolerance for getting wet.
Instead I went to a Poke bowl place, of which there are many here. Rather than salmon or tuna, BEEF. There are a lot more things under the lettuce. The baked beans were an interesting addition. Now to dry out and then go in the shower and get wet again.
Seoul to Gwangju on the KTX
Now I am in Gwangju. I have been here before, in 2015, but I stayed on the other side of town then and mainly travelled to this side of town where the shopping area is.
I remember last time I stayed in colourful love hotel land which was.. unusual.
Getting here today was a 2 hour train ride on the same same bullet train that I did not even bother to photograph.
The train was full, but silent, still I assume I will get COVID from the trains eventually.
Once arriving in Gwangju I had to take the subway across town which was very easy, and then I was still too early for my 4pm check in time, the latest I have ever heard of. Once I was allowed to check in the boss man made me go through some English laminated flash cards of all the things I would not do. He made me promise that I would not have a party in my room, literally, he showed me the card and looked at me and said 'PROMISE!'.
Anyway, the photos today are boring so there is that.
I had hours before I checked out of my room in Seoul to go to the train, so first I checked on the sewer walk from above. So grey today.
I did find a new overpass thing I had not noticed before that goes a really long way above the streets.
Eventually it was time to go to Yongsan station, just 3 stops on the subway from my hotel, and more Gundam. The giant robot killing machine with the heart of gold.
A general view of the station area, this station is most like a mega Japanese station, there are numerous stores and entire eating floors. That is what they call them, the sign says eating floor.
The Yongsan area is going through a big renewal. I remember from my first trip to Korea, in 2012, that this area was full of old discarded trains, and across the way there were no tall buildings. It was the computer market area. I think all that is gone now, and a department store is going to be built in that empty area in the foreground.
The roof of the Yongsan station has many different roof gardens. It was cold today in the grey. Under 10c I reckon.
And finally, my room. Standard type of business hotel room, with their branding on everything including the walls and ceiling. Also theres a full size ancient PC that you can see the mouse for on the left, these are quite common in Korean hotel rooms, they run very old windows so that very old internet explorer still works to log into very old starcraft servers or something like that. Now to think about dinner, I am hungry as I dare not remove my mask on the train to eat.
Sajik Observatory and Asia Culture Center
Yes I am using the American spelling of Centre in the title because that is how you will find it on a map.
Tonight I set out to go find dinner and saw a big tower and a light on a hill. So I had to go investigate. Turns out it was an observatory, and it was great. I will probably go there again. There is a cafe and it was cold and had a great view, but I would probably prefer to be there slightly earlier to catch the sunset, as there is no real way to perch your camera on anything to take a long exposure.
I then headed back down the hill, being chased by cats (refer to pics) and explored the main shopping and entertainment area of town, which is basically where I am staying, and I discovered that at the centre of it is the Asian Culture Center which is a giant hole. None of my pictures really demonstrate just how giant the hole is.
Also my dinner was pretty average, so I had another hot chocolate.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, a repeat of a hike I did last time I was here, but I need to research the bus, so that is all for now.
OK, before going to the observatory, I had to go to the martyr monument. At the bottom of this hill a religious group were doing a candlelight vigil praying for the conversion of all homosexuals or some such thing.
On my way up to the observatory I heard lots of noises in the bushes. I was being stalked. Not by a bear this time, but by lots of cats. Someone is feeding these ones. On the way down a few chased me.
Behold the observatory. It was hard to get a clear shot to show its size. The stairs around the outside might help. I went up and down the stairs much to the annoyance of the security people, I did not realise the stairs were for emergency use only. They are safer than a lift full of old men that hang out in the park chortling phlegm all day.
Handheld view number two, many more modern apartment buildings and mountains. I think my area of town has a lot of older buildings, and a university.
Down one level from the top is an art gallery and cafe. Unfortunately they only serve thimble sized drinks, for exorbitant prices, so that counts me out.
OK, after walking back down and fighting off over friendly cats, here is the giant hole in the ground at the Asian Cultural Center. It is kind of like federation square in Melbourne but much bigger.
It was very quiet tonight with lots of things closed. I suspect this is a Sunday thing. Here is the underground shopping strip between the two busiest stations and most shops were already shutting. Also back above ground a lot of eating places and pubs even seemed to be closed, not closed down just closed.
Of course this being Korea, it was not completely dead, there were still lots of places to buy snail cream.
Well, it was cheap. And the sauce on the 'hamburg steak' was actually spicy. I chose the spicy option and for once that was a true story. And I made this look worse than it is as there is a self sever rice, soup, and pickled vegetable station, some of which looked a bit too sneezed on for me to indulge in. That is all for now, tomorrow is a hiking day again, finally.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2022-11-14 said:
Seoul is definitely clean
I think the smaller places dont have the budget for street cleaning people, but I think the pic here is more of a Sunday no cleaning no bin emptying problem, time will tell
mother on 2022-11-13 said:
first dirty street I have seen this trip. What do you reckon about overall cleanliness in Korea?
山雪 on 2022-11-13 said:
我喜欢吃地板。天气冷好。
Mudeungsan from Wonhyo ranger station
I have done parts of this hike before. It was fantastic, and admittedly last time had a clearer view.
Today I got on the right bus immediately, a difference from last time, and ended up at the same start point very early, so I decided to go on a longer path.
All up it still was not too long, about 6.5 hours bus to bus and 32,000 steps.
It will be the highest hike of this trip, about 1200m, which is really not that high, but high for the Korean mainland.
Just like last time, the actual summit is off limits. The summit area of this national park is heavily militarised, and rumour has it there are actual US missiles on the summit proper.
Despite not being allowed to the very top, it is a great hike, especially if you walk around the back of the mountain first the long way. I saw not a single other person for 3 hours. It was quiet too, no helicopters. This would change. As I descended in the afternoon there were many fighter jets doing circuits, Gwangju airport is a USAF base.
Also on my way down I saw an old man in front of me plummet down the rocky steps. He told me he was fine but I was not so sure, it did not look like he actually slipped, more like he collapsed! He sat for a while and I pretended to take photos nearby while I watched, once some Korean people came I moved on.
I took too many photos, so the description will continue below.
The ride around the back of the mountain on the bus was death defying. There were speed humps on the road, the bus driver saw this as a challenge to get as much hang time as possible. I am glad we were going uphill rather than downhill.
This is the furthest entry point to the national park from the city, but there are still a few shops and restaurants around. They looked closed as I went past. Also I would walk across all those mountains in the background, after walking around them to the left first.
The start of the trail. If the boom gate was down, would I have paid any attention to it? I really doubt it.
The path initially was easy going, and it was well defined the whole way. However at times there are military roads, and a few dead end paths that you probably do not want to get tricked by.
There was even a cedar plantation, more like Japan than Korea. I guess since this was declared a national park in 2008 or there abouts those trees on the left will never be cut down?
First view of the day was hours into the hike. It would be an excellent view on a clear day with the yellow crops and the little mountains sticking up. There is a river down there somewhere too.
Here is the hermitage. It appeared as though no monks were there, but I think they had retreated somewhere further away as I could hear throat singing over a bad PA system coming from somewhere.
A bit more of the hermitage. The windows on the right are mirror glass presumably to reflect the sun. I adjusted my eyeliner.
Behind the hermitage are the first of the colonnades. These were formed by volcanic activity sometime before I was born.
And then all of a sudden, you pop out into the military zone, first up there is antenna world. Cars can get up here on a dirt track too.
Here is today's mention of the Goral. If bell does not ring I will eat you. Good message to always remember.
I would go down that way soon, past some different antennas. Gwangju in the background. Refer to my shots from my last visit here for a clear view of Gwangju.
Back in the trees, and it was a very long, longer than I remember, rocky path down. Near here is where the old guy collapsed.
Once back near the bus, there are 50 or so shops selling hiking gear, as well as cafes, restaurants, and a high end hi-fi gear shop.
That just left working out if a bus would ever come. Oh wait there's a million of them. They basically all go back to where I want to go, or failing that, a subway station. I just got on the first one and it went almost to my hotel door.
Gwangju Lotte for dinner
After a long day hiking it was inevitable that dinner would be somewhere close and easy. So off to the Lotte it was.
However I have the hiccups. I have had the hiccups on and off since drinking a bottle of water near the summit of the hike. It is very annoying. They went away twice but came back again soon after. None of my usual tricks like standing on my head, sticking my tongue in my belly button or putting a finger in each ear hole and nostril while drinking a glass of straight cordial are working.
I have had not had the hiccups like this for many years. I read once that someone permanently got the hiccups with COVID, maybe that is me.
42,000 steps today. Tomorrow is a non hiking day. I have no plan. Onto the pics.
The local Lotte is quite small. I do not know if it is the only department store in town, I suspect there is one on the other side of the city in the business district. Still it has a cinema and a decent food basement.
Since there will not be a lot of photos this evening, behold the seating area of the basement food places. I prefer to sit at the bench and watch mine being made.
Apparently, Jeju style noodles. Looks a lot like Japanese style ramen. Except that it a lot more pork! Broth was also fishier tasting, which I think is the Jeju seaweed.
Gwangju has a xmas decorations street. I wonder if it exists all year or if they re-brand for each season that requires buying plastic lighting of some kind.
Near my hotel all these places were closed last night. Now everything is open, but still quiet. That is enough pics of quiet streets.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-11-14 said:
Maybe shops shut early on Sunday cos so many Koreans have been brainwashed into being god botherers.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-11-12 said:
Wish they would make roof gardens here
adriana on 2022-11-12 said:
That was quite a pfizer rant. My kind of park definitely. I will be looking up the reasons for the protests. Maybe you could ask one of the protesters they probably all speak English.