Maebong and Cheonggyesan the long way
I have done the middle part of this hike previously, in 2019, which I named 'great hike with a crap view', the same was true today.
I approached the hike from a start point a long way from where most people start, to lengthen it. This was a mistake. I was trapped on the wrong side of a 10 lane freeway and I tried 9 different ways to get to where I wanted to be and all of them ended in barbed wire fences or roads you cannot cross on foot. Eventually I gave up on my desired start point and found a dashed line start point. My experience with dashed line trails is mixed, sometimes they are so overgrown you cannot use them, sometimes they do not exist at all. Today's almost did not exist, but a farmer helped me find a way to start, he was very amused, spoke no English, but when I pointed in the direction of the mountain and said 'Maebong' he got it, and escorted me through his farm, with his dog going crazy at me the whole time.
Of course I should have strangled him, because the smoke today was horrific, the worst I have ever seen, and him being a farmer is the cause. This more than the chosen hike was the cause of the crap view, there actually were a few spots with a great view, but instead of view there was only smoke.
So I took too many photos of the path and a few of a bad view. Scroll on!
I got off the subway and thought I will just walk along this drain to the start of the hike. It went under some freeways. It never went under the freeway I needed it to.
You can see the freeway and the impassable wall next to me here, and farms to my right. This was after I found a way under the freeway, via what might mainly be a drain, but was being used by farmers to drive tractors through. It was over 6000 steps for me to get to here before I even started.
After enjoying my own special path I got to the main path. The sign was a relief. I did intend to start at the freight terminal that sign is pointing at, but I never found a way to get to it.
This is actually a national park, and so this main trail was very well trodden. No more chance of getting lost today, I skipped for a while now that I had regained my confidence that I was properly on my way.
The rocky bits were few and far between. As I mentioned, I started quite far from the main entrance to the park, so it was still a proper trail rather than forest bathing path.
First view might be the clearest of the day. I did what I could to see through the smoke with the dehaze slider in lightroom.
This section is very near the main gate, and it is very developed, hedges! This is the bit that I did last time I was here, I remember the hedges.
And here is why it is so well developed, this is s memorial to a paratrooper plane that crashed and killed 54 cadets here in the 1980's. It is possible that is why this area is a national park?
However there were cats, and someone feeds them. I could hear them but not see them. I don't know what they were complaining about, they have more food than they could ever want, and there are thousands of tiny almost flightless birds and lots of chipmunks if they get bored of regular cat food.
The next section and the tallest peak of the day are military installations. They do not like you taking photos, don't tell me what to not do!
The absolute worst view of the day, which is near the highest, but most off limits point of the day.
OK, now I am back to areas I did not hike last time, as I did not see this view last time. On a day without apocalyptic smoke dystopia, this would be a great view.
The path became less developed again, but there were quite a few people. This was a long undulating section without many big climbs, and no rocky bits that required scrambling over on all fours.
I then rejoined a more popular part of the trail, and it became developed again. Here you can see a lonely old man, and a group of housewives. These are the two types of people you see on hikes on weekdays all across Korea.
As is often the case, the lower down bits were more colourful than the mostly dead more exposed upper bits.
Very near the end here and it becomes a grand staircase. Just below here is the 'Seoul Grand Park' where the zoo is, and also a forest bathing area. Which despite it's name, has nothing to do with water.
Last pic for the day, the path let out into a lot of baseball fields, this was presumably a professional team practising, they had a bus painted in team colours nearby. Perhaps one day when it is not smoky I will need to do this hike for a third time!
A short walk around Myeongdong
Tired. Legs are weak, 45,000 steps today, so just a short walk and a handful of photos. No one can explain why handful is written like it is.
I notice a lot of people coughing uncontrollably this evening, hypochondria is a terrible affliction that has it's onset at middle age.
In other news, I had a hot chocolate after dinner. It was great. I could get used to that. I probably should not.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day. I cleaned my boots this this evening, so that will be motivation to not accidentally go hiking again.
That is all for now.
This is just a clothes shop. But the lighting on the outside changes colours on that mesh stuff. I could not figure out if the actual mesh lights up, or if there are lights shining on it.
The BOIBOY shop is right up my alley, no, it's in my wheelhouse. It is a beauty product shop exclusively for men who want to look like girly boys.
My dinner, some kind of pork on rice. To annoy my only reader, I told them to remove all the vegetables. Actually I was so hungry I got a bit shaky, so I headed straight to the nearest department store basement, and most of what they had on offer was cold noodles, so pork on rice it was.
And for the last photo this evening, the busy street full of department stores in Myeongdong. I think this photo came out pretty well given that I just snapped aimlessly while waiting at the lights.
Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung and the secret garden
Today I took a billion photos, visited 2 palaces including one with 2 lots of double g's in it's name and visited the secret garden which I thought would remain a secret. Allow me to explain.
First of all, I did not intend to go to either of these palaces today, I intended to go to the main one which I visited once before many years ago, but ended up standing out the front of a random palace gate and realising I had not actually been here before, so I decided to go in.
While wandering around, I discovered it seemed you go could from palace one to palace 2 via a back gate, and at this back gate was the entry to the secret garden.
I knew of the secret garden, but generally you have to book an escorted tour and their is a kind of lottery system and it all sounds too hard for me to bother with. But that was not the case today or for the next couple of weeks.
Either because it was closed for ages due to COVID, or because they want to discourage group tours due to COVID, self guided tours are available for the next 2 weeks. A self guided tour means, you can just pay to go in ($5) and wander around.
There is a limit on the number of people, and most people have pre booked, but I went to the window and asked and they said I could go in at 10:30, it seems I was the first person to ask that day in person too.
I will leave my description of the garden to the pics, there are lots.
In bad news, I think dust got in my camera, this means it is now rubbish, the sensor cannot be cleaned. So a lot of my photos will now have 2 big dust spots on them. This is the failing of my wonderful camera, it is super expensive, super small, and takes the sharpest pictures of any camera I know of, but it lets dust (and water drops) in and then it is ruined. Just google Ricoh GRIII dust and see the results for yourself.
So from now on all photos of a plain background taken with the aperture greater than about 5 will have 2 big dust spots on the upper right.
My walk to the palace region went past a Buddhist temple that apparently had a lot to do with the independence from Japan movement in the early 1900's, except the top guy died before America granted Korea it's independence by nuking Japan.
The smoke is less apparent depending on the direction you are looking, and sometimes it makes the photos look nice and spooky.
Most Korean palaces look the same to me, I cannot tell new re-creation from old. Apparently one of the 2 today is much older, but looking at the photos now I cannot really tell where one ends and the next one starts.
I suspect this is palace number 2, which is the less famous of the 2. No dust spots yet because this was shot at f/5.6.
Inside had many bonsai things. I noticed some of them were pruned incorrectly so did a quick tidy up for them.
OK, this one is secret. Note that it looks very similar to the non secret parts. Apparently in times gone by it was used for ritualistic purposes.
One of the few remaining square ponds. Apparently they previously were all square, but when Japan occupied the place they ordered them to be made rounder?
You can sit and watch some performances. Once everyone was seated I started my act. It was highly inappropriate but probably lost in translation.
Another contender. I caught up with a guided tour group here, which was blasting out instructions in Japanese to a large group of people with giant tripods.
OK, due to colour, I declare this one to be view of the day. Another thing they used to do, release a tiger in the grounds and hunt it!
After exiting the garden, you can then take a tour of the buildings around the palace, which were old government buildings for important government things like portraits, pottery and calligraphy.
I like to do this. The irony is the guys I took a photo of were annoyed at me for taking their photo.
After you exit the paid area you are between the two main palace areas, and it is all tourist streets in an area called Bukchon. Lots and lots of tourists around today. Note to Australians who will be online complaining about Chinese tour groups, many of them were from Singapore!
Here you can clearly see the dust spots! First f/8 shot of the day. I do not think I have climbed that little mountain. It is very small but has a good view of the palaces.
A longer lap around Gangnam
Before heading out tonight I had Korean TV on and saw an Australian government tourism ad.
It was fantastic. A kangaroo hopped around Sydney and visited the opera house and the harbour bridge. And then numerous celebrities I did not recognise said g'day, including one wearing a bikini standing at the airport arrival also holding a sign saying g'day. So that was pretty awesome.
For my excursion this evening I headed across the river and got off two stops early and walked around the greater Gangnam area. On previous trips I have spent some of my time staying in a hotel in Gangnam, this time I could not find any availability for my dates so I won't be.
It is the modern area of Seoul, where all the rich people live and rape girls in nightclubs. Am I cancelled yet? It is a real problem with multiple former k-pop star nightclub owners having been arrested over the last few years.
Anyway, I had an interesting dinner, so lets go to the small number of pics.
The area is quite hilly, which means you can often get a good view for photos while crossing the road.
It was a little surprising to find an older style market here, but here it is. If you need a fish before you head on up to da club, they got ya covered g.
My dinner. Pork cutlet seems to be the main thing in Korea now. I chose the option with the vegetables, but that did mean cold soba underneath. So cold it still clearly had crushed ice in the cold broth. Still it was quite nice. I flipped the tray 180 degrees for a photo. Those white things are mystery sweet items.
And after walking a long lap, I was almost back where I started, so I took another photo like the first one.
Tomorrow is another very smoky hiking day, you have been warned.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-11-10 said:
What, no sauce with the pork katsu! I like cold soba in summer - surprised they serve it there in the winter. This would not happen in Japan. Can you add day and night temperatures to your blog please.
David on 2022-11-10 said:
almost certainly cold brew drip coffee made from some kind of elaborate chemistry set
adriana on 2022-11-10 said:
Wow nice Japanese maples today. I want to know what the shop called 'Sorry' sells.
Geomdansan from Hanam Geomdansan station
A bit less smoky today, but still quite smoky.
My hike today was in the same direction as the one from the day before yesterday. In fact you will see those mountains at the end, and the mountains from 5 days ago at the start. That is because I climb all the mountains.
The overwhelming feature of today's hike was dead leaves. And also my shorts. It is about 20c today, which I feel is unusually warm for this time of year. It was cold when I set off from my hotel at about 6:30am, but by the time I started up the mountain it was ok, and by the end, quite hot. I am glad I put on sunscreen.
The other thing about today's hike, it started off very developed, and very popular, and ended up with almost no discernible path and no other people and a bus stop. But always leaves. So many leaves.
On this trip I am wearing running boots, which are a weird concept, they are a boot version of a trail running shoe, this was useful today as it stopped leaves from getting into my shoes.
That is enough shoe info, onto the brown smoky photos.
My journey to the start of the hike was all on subway line 1, from practically the front door of my hotel to the last station on the line.
It was only a short walk from the subway station to the start of the actual trail, via a convenience store for some fluids and muesli bars.
The journey up to Geomdansan peak was very nice, across the way between the branches is the observatory from the other day on Yebongsan.
Here is the view from part way up. I am glad I took a shot from here as it got smokier after this shot.
It was well roped off and formed rock steps all the way to the peak of Geomdansan, and many other people.
Presumably up there is the main peak of the day. It seems too early in the day to already be there. Not to worry, I will just keep going up the ridge line for a few more hours.
Shocking. Actually what is shocking is I forgot to do a stance pic in my shorts to show off my girly legs.
A view of the view the other way, away from Seoul. Hmm looks a bit less smoky than the shot in the similar direction from earlier. There was a bit of a breeze today for the first time on this entire trip.
Over the river you can see the observatory again. That mountain is higher than this one. I have used the healing tool in lightroom to remove the dust spots on a few of these shots.
After the main peak, the path got harder to follow, but it never really mattered, and there were no ropes. This is a view somewhere along the way.
Sign posts were few and far between. A map would be a good idea if you intend to come this way. I use Naver which was fine.
A cropped view of the river down below. You can go down that way also, the bus services down there seemed less reliable than where I was aiming for.
Now for the hard part, going down in the leaves. This was really really steep, which is never properly shown in photos, and the leaves were really quite deep. Under the leaves, loose rocks. Still I managed to stay upright.
After leaf swimming for an hour or so, I popped out into some farms. Those mountains across there are the ones from the day where I went up the hill on a bus and walked around the fortress wall.
To get to the bus stop I had to go under the highway, via multiple tunnels. It was not a problem this time like a previous day where I could not find a way across for hours.
And finally, the bus stop. I only had to wait 10 minutes. Also it is a bus stop in the middle of nowhere, with a bus every 20 minutes and a sign telling you how many minutes until it comes. Also the Naver map app shows you live where the bus is. Very convenient. Japan needs this, relying on a bus in Japan is never a good idea.
Seoullo 7017 Skygarden
Before we get onto tonight, I forgot to tell a story from this morning.
When arriving on the first peak, I sat to have some water and a muesli bar, and a guy arrived, making noises like he was giving birth to something prickly, and cheered as he got there, to himself. He was wearing no shoes, apparently barefoot hiking is a thing. He then proceeded to spread as much phlegm around as possible, out of his nose, out of his mouth, all while yelling nonsense. And then as I was putting my backpack back on to flee, he wanted to high five the 6 or so people that were sitting on the summit. I literally ran away from him.
Also, why is the word phlegm? Flem was not already in use. Unless you mean the Phlegmish people from Flanders.
Tonight I went to a place I have only been to before early in the morning while half asleep after arriving at Seoul station from the airport dragging my suitcase. I was going to just call it the sky walk but apparently it is called Seoullo 7017 or Skygarden.
It is similar to the concept that I think exists in New York, an old elevated railway line converted to a park in the sky, with good views.
The one here has many activities, there are cafes, fish ponds, interactive video light show things and even trampolines with mesh nets so you can jump even higher than you already are. At night it is lit up with blue lights and was a pretty cool spot to just gawk at traffic on the unusually warm night.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day. It is supposed to rain in the afternoon, which is the only rain for the upcoming week. I have no plan. Last time I had no plan I ended up in the secret garden.
I purchased many mini figures of popular culture icons I am now too old to recognise, because they are very useful to have.
By now I was starving even though it was early, so it was time for an immediate dinner. Abiko curry to the rescue! This is basically a direct copy of Coco curry, you can even choose your spice level, obviously I went for something ridiculous, but I did get the vegetarian option.
The first view from the Skygarden is a handheld view. That is Seoul station, hence the lack of high rise buildings along there where the train tracks are.
The second view of Skygarden is a long exposure. I balanced my camera on the glass screen thing for a 15 second exposure.
And for the final photo tonight, you have seen homeless people with all kinds of crap tied to a trolley, this guy decided to do the same but with his little truck. Mobile hoarders. I am filming a tv series based on this. Am I rich now?
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2022-11-12 said:
Great dinner,great Skygarden and I think Seoul Station must have been de signed by the same architect that did Flinder's St in Melbourne.
David on 2022-11-11 said:
live, as in live telecast, it shows the bus moving on the map on my phone via a live update every few seconds
today was a shorter hike, about 4.5 hours, 22,000 steps
mother on 2022-11-11 said:
'you live where the bus is' please explain? Also how many steps/hours etc?
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2022-11-09 said:
I don't think you would ever be mistaken for a boiboy.
David on 2022-11-09 said:
It is a helicopter landing platform, most mountains have a few of them
mother on 2022-11-09 said:
very picturesque today. That first peak looks like a helicopter landing platform. Might need it if I ever go there.