Walking a lap of Yeosu via Odongdo island
As predicted yesterday, today I walked a big lap of Yeosu.
30,000 steps right on the money for those playing the old persons how many steps game from home.
On my way I made a sizeable detour and did a lap of Odongdo island, probably the main natural attraction of Yeosu. It is a pretty small island, nice enough, but not as nice as the Taejongdae walk I did near Busan the other day.
On my trip around the island I was asked by no less than 4 family groups of Koreans to take their photo. I was happy to oblige, but a bit surprised, I was as sweaty and scruffy as ever, wearing my oldest t-shirt, partially stained by last nights dinner. They were all very young families, spoke English well enough, one guy was not happy with the way I framed the photo, so he gave me very specific instructions and made me take it twice more before he was satisfied.
After the island I ascended a small hill to the cable car departure point. Of course, being the massive tightarse that I am, there was no way I was paying the $15 fine to go on it, instead I descended over the hill and walked across the bridge. I may have been the only person in weeks to walk across this bridge, cars were blowing their horns at me.
This took me to the end of the other end of the cable car, which I of course climbed up and mocked all the people getting off, explaining to them that I walked down a hill, across the bridge and up a hill for free, and all you did was sit on your ass for 10 minutes for $15.
That just left another bridge and another hill to navigate and 30,000 steps were completed.
Lots of photos again today, sunshine and clear skies would have been better, oh well.
The journey from my hotel to the island took me all around the main harbour, under the bridges again that I went under before but would later go over. I appreciated the ship building yards once more.
This was a weird bit, I am on an elevated boardwalk that goes all the way to that headland, and then stops at a dead end. No way to get off, you just have to turn back and walk a few hundred metres to where it rejoins the road. Also note the concrete things in the water, a common feature in all Asian countries.
After walking back and then back and then back again, I went through this tunnel, a few Ferrari's came through and did the stick it in neutral and rev the crap out of it thing.
Upon exiting the tunnel, here is the elevator (lift) to the cable car. Hmm, I hope I do not have to use this later.
I think this is the nicest hotel in Yeosu, no doubt built for the famous World Expo Yeosu 2012 all Korea Yeosu international exposition expo that was held in 2012.
Now I will walk over to the island. Thankfully you can walk, although there is a fake train thing which is a truck towing trailers to take you too.
View of the expo area, now largely a ghost town from what I have seen. Busan is building all kinds of stuff to do the same thing in 2030, it seems like an expensive thing to do. Brisbane did it in 1988, who remembers that? No one.
The path around the island looked mainly like this. There were roughly 50 public toilets. Periodically you walk down a couple of hundred stairs to look at a view, then come back up again.
Apparently, a dragon lives in this cave. I threw a few rocks in there but he did not come out to say hello.
This is the penis tree, I was very disappointed. Although as I came around a corner grandmas were being photographed stroking it. They scurried off.
As I crossed back over the causeway, it was apparent that I would not have to use the cable car lift tower thing, there is a beautiful staircase to climb instead! I started skipping ahead with increased glee.
OK, it was easy enough to find the start of the bridge, but it is covered in rubbish, and cars were blowing (honking) their horns at me, so I do not think very many people walk over the bridge. Having said that, cars often blow their horns at me wherever I am in the world.
There is a viewing deck at the top of the cable car station, which gives a great view of the car park.
View from bridge #2. A bit hard to see, but there is a floating platform with white igloos on it. There are a few such platforms anchored along the coast in other spots. I suspect these are for fishing adventures, the igloos are your tent, they tow you out to the middle of the ocean somewhere and drop anchor. Of course, I could be wrong.
I saved the best pic for last, a local drain! I feel as though I have seen a lot of Yeosu in a couple of days.
Looking at boats in Yeosu
As this is the ancient naval capital of Korea and in my honorary self appointed role of Grand Rear Admiral (retired), I thought it best that I go examine the fleet.
I took a short walk along the shore in the opposite direction of the town. There were thousands of boats. Do they all come back for the weekend? This was not something I allowed back in my day.
There were so many boats I wondered how they actually get them out again, they are not in individual berths, they are all tied to each other, it would take half a day to coordinate getting everyone back out to sea.
In addition to fishing boats I also inspected a ferry. There are a lot of ferries that go to the hundreds of islands, but finding info on where they go, when and where to get on seems hard to come by. There is an actual ferry terminal in town, I have been past it 4 times, and there is a sign at the roped off doors, and never has there been a ferry there at all. I have a theory that is probably wrong, there is a trucking strike in Korea at the moment, the union is called 'The cargo truckers solidarity union', so I am wondering if the ferry operators are part of that union. There are party boats running around, but nothing that looks like an official passenger commuter service.
After all that, I finally also inspected the police fleet. Very well appointed, but needs more guns.
Tomorrow, all the way back to Seoul. All fast trains but I do have to change at Iksan in the middle of the country.
About 1 block from my hotel is the only thing resembling a department store in Yeosu. I had not been in there yet, that would change tonight. Yes I know the photo is crooked, only way I could fit it in.
Down at the fishing port, food trucks are setting up. Actually this is interesting, behind me along the waterfront there are some rather sad looking parks. I can see them out of my hotel window. There has been no one there the last couple of days but now a band has set up, and people are setting up tents. The park extends into the water. I think this is all a setup for people to go fishing all night, with food, music and camping. Lots of kids running around.
Here is the only ferry I have seen the whole time I have been here. Scabs! It is arriving at an unmarked boat ramp.
Some time later and I am doing a few laps of the running track. This is actually the local university, very small. But it is open for old people to entertain themselves on a Saturday night. They were getting in the way of me setting a fast time.
Now for the local Lotte mall. No basement! The 1st level is just a huge supermarket. The 3 levels above it are individual stores like this, in a grid layout more like a factory outlet or market than what we tend to call a mall these days.
Before going to the food court, I went up to the roof car parking for a couple more view shots. I have seen the view of Yeosu enought times now.
The mall has a little food court with about 6 places to eat. One is Lotteria which is Korean Mcdonalds, over to the right is a shabu shabu, but I would have neither of those....
When Koreans think of Chinese food, this is what they think of. This and ONLY this. If you ever go to Incheon Chinatown, the largest in Korea, there are 200 places serving ONLY this. Actually it is often served with noodles, but the sauce which my research tells me was actually invented in Incheon by a Chinese immigrant, is what Koreans understand is 'Chinese food'. It is a black bean based sauce, with larger bits of bean in it, and probably some pork, and this being Yeosu, probably leftover bits of octopus.
Yeosu to Seoul on the KTX
Now I am back in Seoul. Gangnam to be precise. It took a long time to get here. But before that, lets talk some more about Yeosu.
I have made fun of the 2012 Yeosu all the worlds fair and general exposition many times while in Yeosu. Today I got to the train station too early because nobody got into a fight on the bus, so I had time to explore all its amazing abandonment. It is at the point where it is actually dangerous! Everything is abandoned, there are fences stopping you from walking on wooden decks with holes in them through to the ocean, amazing rust, escalators with rocks holding down shade cloth on them. Photos below.
The moral of the story is, if a guy in a fancy suit comes to your town promising to put it on the map by hosting a world expo, strap him to the catapult immediately.
Now for my journey. I guess I started at about 10am, and did not get to my hotel until 4:40pm. That is a long time in Korea. First I took a bus to the Yeosu station, I ran to get it so I was ahead of schedule. Then after the expo adventure, it was about a 90 minute ride to the transfer at Iksan, in the middle of the country. I had to walk the entire length of a bullet train, to the escalator to change platforms, leaving me just a few minutes to walk the entire length of the platform to the next train, do not under estimate how long these trains are.
This meant I had no time for food and water, and on the train it is basically not allowed, you are not supposed to remove your mask at all.
So then from Iksan to Seoul it is about another 90 minutes, but then I have to get to Gangnam. I go down to the subway, and the track is shared with normal trains. This was a bit confusing, so 3 subway transfers and many stairs carrying my bags later I arrive at my hotel, where they are resetting the lifts, all the lifts. This took a good half an hour or so before I could get up to my room, all the while some guy was going crazy that he could not take his wife the iced americano she demanded before the ice melted.
Now for some pics.
I was up super early and went for a walk along the shore of Yeosu. Very clear skies today, so a few more pics were in order. The first one is an interesting choice for a sculpture, as diving boats with tourists leave from where this is!
In the middle of nowhere is this hotel. It is up a long private driveway from the road (I walked along it followed by security). Look at the weird sky bridges between different parts of the building.
Now for the expo. Here is the main entrance, you are greeted by a giant brown small wooden boy. This is a Korean welcome to country, and the boy does represent a native group that lived near here. I have never seen anyone resembling this boy though, so I presume they are extinct.
There are lots of escalators. They all look like this. I would assume they would have been worth money to pull out and sell, but I guess that would be admitting the expensive buildings erected for the month long expo are now useless.
Everything was rusty. There really were wooden decks with big holes in them, stepping on them would have you fall into the ocean.
OK, enough expo, onto the station. 4 bullet trains waiting to go. While I was here huge numbers of people got off incoming trains, and then raced to store their baggage. I assume they come all the way from Seoul for a day trip. They are probably on their way back now as I am typing this with suitcases full of live octopusereses's.
A view of Iksan. As soon as the train departed Yeosu it got very grey, and it is still grey now here in Seoul.
And here is my hotel in the Gangnam area of Seoul. It is a Dormy Inn. It is just like the Japanese Dormy Inns with the free ramen service and bath house etc. I have stayed here before. It is cheap because there is a lot of hate directed at Japan lately in Korea (I may have mentioned that?), so no Koreans want to stay here and there are not many tourists, although more on that below.
Briefly wandering around Gangnam in search of Taiwan
As I had not eaten since 6:30AM, I really just wanted food.
Luckily I am in Gangnam, and every type of food is readily available, with the possible exception of sand filled clams. I was spoiled for choice actually.
Also there are tourists, I almost lost count. There are a lot more flights back in the schedule now since I got here, and most of the COVID related testing requirements and vaccination requirements have been removed since I got here. I think this has resulted in an influx of tourists. Japan take note.
Anyway, I found my dinner very quickly and ate it at 5:45pm. Now I am hungry again.
Tomorrow it is supposed to rain, although the forecast says thunderstorms. It is also probably my last chance for a hike. Hmm. It will be a case of see what the weather looks like when I wake up, go anyway, get saturated.
Just a handful of pics tonight.
This is the official logo of Gangnam, and I think it is to recognise the Gangnam style thing which is that everyone in Gangnam is very selfish and only cares about money. Which is 100 percent accurate. However, big news! I.SEOUL.U was retired yesterday, and is being replaced by, 'My Soul, Seoul'. Really! This is big news, I.SEOUL.U is written on everything in holographic 3d spinning neon letters. Replacing it all will cost billions.
Ahh yes, I had this last time I was here. Excellent Taiwan style beef noodle soup with hand cut fresh noodles. The best food in Korea is Taiwanese food.
It was still early, so there was time to head underground. This is the cheap fashion part of Gangnam, hence it is all underground.
And final pic for the evening, a long underground tunnel between stations. This one is a bit more varied, a few restaurants, bakeries, even a greengrocer with the guy out the front screaming 1000 won 1000 won 1000 won!
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
jenny on 2022-06-12 said:
Not many days left. Your holiday seems to have gone really fast.
Cheonmasan hike from Cheonmasan station
Last hike.
Weather showed a break in the rain from 6am to early afternoon when storms would arrive, they were 100% right!
Congratulations to the Korean memorial department for collection of reparations related to atmospheric grievances.
If you think back 3 weeks, I went on a hike, with no view, which was the wrong mountain entirely. It was not a great time, especially the descent.
Well today I decided to right my wrong and go to where I wanted to go in the first place. Would I end up wrong again? No. I was right.
Cheonmasan is a very popular hike, even on a wet Monday morning there were a few other people on the trail, including as we shall discuss soon, a young guy who clearly had Monkey Flurona.
Getting to Cheonmasan required a couple of subway changes from Gangnam, but it is not too far out of town. The train I boarded did stop one stop before my stop so I had to wait for the next one, but that was only 20 minutes.
From the Cheonmasan station to the start of the trail is only a 10 minute walk. There are stairs, signs, other people. All the things I had read about when somehow 3 weeks ago I went somewhere different, which you shall see below also.
Also there was fog, not enough to make cool foggy photos, just enough to ruin the view. So now for some view.
Here is where the train I was on ended before the end of the line and I had to wait 20 minutes for the next one. I pad $1.20 or so to exit the station and go back in again to take this photo, it is called Pyeongnae-Hopyeong Station so that should be easy to remember.
Terrible photo, but my mountain for the day is the one in the middle of the screen with the bit of cloud / fog at the top.
On my walk to the start of the hike from Cheonmasan station, I checked for where I went 3 weeks ago by mistake. I believe that is it. There were no views down this way at any time on that hike, but there was a long trail that joined up to today's location.
The start of the right hike had all the stairs and amenities that were promised by previous reviewers.
The stairs gave way to rocks. I was a careful as it was quite wet still, but never slipped once all day.
Probably the best view of the day, we will get it again later on the way down with less fog. And actually, this was the only hike on this whole trip that was an up and back course rather than coming down a different way course. That seems an improbable feat, but I believe it is correct.
I was concerned about coming back down this slippery looking rock, but it was fine. I don't mind slipping going up as I fall onto my soft underbelly and hug a rock, but slipping going down I land on my bony pelvis and continue sliding.
OK, here I am holding my breath, as this is where the young guy was sneezing, coughing, flemming massive amounts of flems, crying, wheezing, gargling sputum. There was another woman on the summit, she saw this and put her mask on, after this shot I did the same, but there was more to come.
There is the sick guy. I had to get back past him. If I come home sick, this is the guy that made me sick. KILL HIM.
Nice tree stump. There are ski resorts near here. I think they sprung up as Korea was hosting the winter olympics, and are possibly already no longer operating.
Here is the same view from earlier. And try as I might to avoid the sick guy, I think he was following me. I let him pass and he stopped soon after. I went fast and he tried to catch up, piss off and leave me alone. I did the whole descent wearing a mask.
Back at the bottom and I was warning everyone about the sick guy. To try and avoid him I did a few sets on the giant steering wheel.
And after only about 3 hours and 20,000 steps I was back at the station. It was a shorter hike, but I beat the rain, it was however a very steep hike, 800 metres ascent with no let up. OK, no more hikes, tomorrow I will do something tourists are supposed to do, or go to the hospital for a covid test when I wake up with whatever super mucus inducing infection today's idiot had.
Eating some more Korean pork
I am back, with not much to say and a record low number of photos.
Instead I will do some reflections on 95% trip completion so that I can read this in a few years time and wonder if I was mad when I wrote it.
My feet - are in perfect health, despite many hikes, and probably hitting the million steps in a month goal tomorrow. All hail Altra Superior 3.5 shoes.
The weather - really good. I had one day of rain in 30, it won't rain tomorrow. The rainy day was in Busan at the village on a hill. It did rain for 8 minutes this afternoon but I was on the subway. It was never humid, in fact very dry to the point I have dry skin where I normally don't. I was only hot on 2 days that I can recall, one was when I walked around the great wall in Suwon, the other on a non hiking day early on in Seoul. It might be hot tomorrow.
Prices - hotels are super cheap, or were when I booked, that may have changed now that the borders are more open. Trains and buses are stupidly cheap, less than $1.50 a ride no matter how far you go on the bus or subway, and the high speed trip I took yesterday, the longest in Korea, is not even $40. Food is probably more expensive than I remember, depending on what you eat. Coffee is more expensive than Australia, dinner a bit cheaper, bakeries and things like pepsi are a lot cheaper. I do not buy anything else. I save money when on holidays compared to being at home.
COVID - it is still required to wear a mask indoors, and most people do outdoors even though it is not the law to do so. No one seemed to freak out at seeing a foreigner allowed into the country. I hear in Japan one of the first chaperoned tour groups already faced protests at a town they were visiting!
Language - enough people speak English but you do not need to speak anywhere if you do not want to. Signs are in English, ordering food is by touch screen, everything is pay by credit card, and phones these days translate Korean text just fine in real time using the camera.
The bad - I usually travel in March and November. It is mid June. I thought the weather would be a challenge, but the temperature was largely fine. What I did miss however was darkness. I know I go to bed early, but it is not properly dark here until 9pm. I prefer travelling when it gets dark at say, 5:30pm. A lot of the Asian busy street scenes are more interesting at night.
So there you go, I am still here all day and night tomorrow, so another day (and night) of boring photos to come before 1.5 days of airports.
Oh look, here is the actual casino. I knew where it was but did not know there was a street entrance, I thought it was underground along with the COEX mall.
I was back at a mall I have been to a few times, once on this trip and on past trips. It has more food options than anywhere else I know of, but it also has many art galleries.
The book shop has live flowers to sit in and have your photo taken. There was a line of people, I got in the line, and then took a photo of the seat with no one on it. This amused the people in the line behind me.
It is the only mall I know of with an indoor underground running track around the whole thing. This is a great thing, but people need to get out of my way.
Here is my dinner. A very typical Korean meal. The pork is apparently 'boiled'. I believe you are supposed to wrap various things into the leaves in the middle. This is a test of metal chopstick proficiency. I did not see any of the locals wrapping their pork and pickled things in leaves, when I left I did a lap of the restaurant and everyone had left their leaves untouched, hmmm.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-06-13 said:
my grandmother in Holland had one of those hand turned sewing machines. I know how to use it.
Adriana on 2022-06-13 said:
Lucky again with the rain. Hope you are lucky with the germs as well.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-06-11 said:
Probably no basement in the mall because it is built in swamp or sand like Hiroshima - which is why they have no chikatetsu there and why it too them a loong time to build their only underground mall which smells very musty.
mother on 2022-06-11 said:
what an interesting walk. I'd like to see you skip by the way.