Hiking over Hwangnyeongsan to Gwangalli beach
Last day in Busan, last hike in Busan.
I selected a small mountain, so small you can drive to the top via a toll road. It is called Hwangnyeongsan, and you can walk up it without using the road in about 90 minutes from Seomyeon station, then mess around on the top for a while, and go down the other side to Gwangalli beach. Don't all those place names just roll off the tongue?
Still grey, still cold, but the views were decent. This is a very popular little mountain, lots of people walk up and over the road, because it is a toll road there really isn't any traffic to worry about early on a Wednesday morning.
On the top there were cafes, they were closed, toilets, they were open, viewing decks, they were everywhere, and some smoke stacks. More on the smoke stacks below.
Because I was finished mountaining early, I decided to head down to the beach with the bridge, which I had been to last time I was here, but a cool bridge is worth seeing twice.
I saw some foreign backpackers here causing drama by deliberately standing in the middle of a busy road drinking beers at 11am, a group of 10 of them who mainly wanted to just stop traffic and be annoying. So I quickly went elsewhere!
I got off the subway at the main junction station of Seomyeon and headed up the hill in the direction of that small mountain and its beckoning antenna's.
It is steep before even getting to a hiking trail, but there is still a sporting field to enjoy on the side of the mountain.
The map I use said this was the way, through the temple, the sign translated said 'NO WAY, not a hiking trail'. Time to find a different way then.
Presumably due to the unfriendly attitude of the local temple this old persons outdoor gym has no old people. There was no one around anywhere.
It did not take long to get to the top, here is one of a few viewing platforms. You can get close to a 360 degree view from this peak. Down those stairs is a cafe, but it is not open at this early hour.
Here is the old and the new. In the foreground are 5 smoke stacks, used to send signals to the city. They do not look that old to me, maybe they still relied on smoke signals until sometime last Thursday? Behind it, the new tower that replaced the smoke signals.
I spotted the next peak over and decided to head towards it. The path between them was almost wheelchair accessible, you could also follow the road if you want.
However, the next peak over, you cannot go to the peak. Here is an old military bunker, I assume on the top there is new military gear as there was razor wire everywhere.
I found a nice path that circled around the military stuff. This looks like a plantation of some kind.
Then I got back to the road again, and found another cafe, this one only opens at noon. I really think most people looking for a coffee on a mountain would be looking before noon, but I am sure the cafe knows best.
As I descended down to the beach I passed the local Melbourne themed cafe. Coffee here is about $10 a cup.
Behold the beach. Recently the site of the qualifying for the Asian SUP championships. I though 'SUPping' was just for people who want to float on a thing and not move all day. So I wonder if the championships is a race or a stay still as long as you can contest.
I wandered all the way around the bay thinking it would be the best spot to photograph the bridge. It was not. So instead I photographed the shore from afar.
And then, finally walked back to where I was earlier to get one last photo of the giant bridge. Off the left of screen it curves around about 60 degrees without hitting the shore and continues across another bay. Over to the right it joins another bridge across another bay and goes to the island I was on yesterday. So wherever you are in Busan enjoying a sea view, you see a bridge.
Busan Chinatown and Lotte store roof
I set myself 2 missions to complete in Busan during my previous diatribes and tonight I completed both.
1. Photograph the Hotel cat, completed. He was just sitting in the street, in front of the main door, watching everyone go buy.
2. Capture the view from the Lotte store roof, although it was not dark, but I think they shut it off at 8, so not much I can do about that. Great view though!
I also walked back to the main Busan station, which was really not as far as I thought, and then discovered Chinatown and Texas town over the road. That was quite an interesting combination.
I also did a tour of a few different markets, a sewer, everything.
There are a lot of photos for an evening post so lets get into it.
This is one of those optical illusion things where if you take a photo in the right spot it looks very 3d. I photographed the photographer.
Korea has no concerns about educating Koreans about Chinese war heroes. I doubt there is a similar mural of Tojo.
More roof garden before we get into the view. That enclosed grass area is a dog park. There is a doggy day care / dog grooming salon alongside it.
And finally, the view in the other direction back to where I was earlier today. I think I climbed all the mountains in the above 3 photos.
Tomorrow I go to Yeosu. I have not been there before. It is a small place, 5 hours away on the slow train.
From Busan to Yeosu on the slow train and bus
Now I am in Yeosu, in the middle south bit of the Korean mainland, I have not been here before.
Yeosu is famous for the 'World Exposition Yeosu Korea 2012, EXPO2012 YEOSU KOREA', which was the full name of the Yeosu expo. The High speed train station I arrived at is still called Yeosu expo, and even though the high speed train goes there, today I took the slow train, but lets back track.
Also, apologies in advance for the boring terrible photos.
Leaving Busan to take the slow train, you do not go to Busan station, you go to Bujeon station, which is a bit more north, and very small.
The slow train then takes 3 and a bit hours to go to Suncheon, in the middle of nowhere, but apparently Suncheon has something to do with space as there were murals of astronauts everywhere. It is not where Korea launches rockets into space from, I just checked.
I then boarded another slow train to Yeosu expo after a 45 minute wait for a shorter 30 minute ride, mostly in tunnels.
Once at Yeosu expo station, you are near enormous empty expo halls and possibly not much else, but there is a bus stop, so I boarded bus number 2 with everyone else, then things got interesting.
2 old men were engaged in a fight as I boarded, a seated fight, yelling across the aisle while trying to hit each other with walking sticks. This went on for a couple of stops and people just ignored them, so I told them to shut up, you are embarrassing yourselves! A younger guy laughed, aha! I said to him, translate to these fools, if they do not shut up I will take their walking sticks off them and throw them out the window. So, he did, I think, cause they shut up!
But the fun did not end there, a guy sitting in the seat behind the driver was busy giving the driver instructions, directions, general tips on bus driving, reminding him to close the door, I think this guy might have been special, the driver was just mumbling half under his breath what I presume was 'yes... ok... I will... thanks..'
And then for one more bonus weird thing, there was a school boy sitting on the bus, reading his phone. A middle aged woman gets on, and starts cuddling and kissing the side of his face. He was doing his best to ignore her. I assumed it was his mother, but then things started to get a bit gropey! I looked on in bemusement, as did 25 other people. And then the woman got off, and the school boy stayed on the bus! I am none the wiser.
Now for the terrible pics.
Bujeon station. It was 3 hours until I would next take my mask off for food or water, so it was Dunkin Donuts or nothing. The coffee was decent.
The view was mountains, farms, tunnels. The farms still have high rise apartment buildings in Korea.
Now my hotel room in Yeosu. It is unusual. Carpet is stained. Room is huge, bed is huge, a full computer and monitor no one would ever use is provided. TV has 999 channels of internet streamed stolen content.
My room does however have a view. Now to work out where I am in relation to things. No subway here, so more exciting bus rides ahead.
Yeosu is a place for seafood lovers
If you like live seafood in all its forms you will like it here. You can eat a live octopus, or suck the gooey innards from every kind of shell.
I knew this before coming here, I also know that it is a popular tourist spot, so I am expecting it to be very busy on the weekend, tonight, not so much.
It was a bit strange actually, the downtown shopping area has a few streets of expensive retail, the usual Zara, Nike, Gucci that sort of thing. But there are really not many restaurants. This is a new thing for me in Korea, normally there are restaurants everywhere.
I suspect that is because everyone comes here specifically to eat seafood at one of the numerous huge seafood markets. The problem is I do not really enjoy eating sand out of a clam or chomping a tentacle off of something that is still alive.
This made my choices, especially tonight when some places I suspect are open on weekends were closed, quite limited. And I chose badly. Very badly.
To get from my hotel to the main part of town I could get back on a bus, hike over a mountain, or find a way around the edge of the mountain along the water. I was not 100% sure it was possible to go around the water, but it was, very interesting walk.
View of where I was headed to. There is more to the town off to the right of screen around another small mountain.
This is the road, they painted the pedestrian recommended access in red. It is suitable for bicycles also, murals of people riding bikes are painted on all the walls.
A turtle boat! They are really called that. I was learning that Yeosu is where the Naval headquarters were located in the 1400's to defend Korea from of course, the Japanese.
I think behind where I am standing preserved inside a big shed is the original wooden naval headquarters, or whats left of it. I may investigate on another day.
I love an overpass. One of the many markets on the right. There are a few canals running through the city with markets backing onto them. I assume they used to throw all the fish guts into those canals, but it is not the case anymore, everything here is very clean.
And here is my terrible dinner. It was one of only a few places open that were not doing clams or octopus. I wanted a rice bowl thing, not available, ok then how about the pasta, also no, hmm, what do you have still available? It was THE WORLDS LARGEST EVER SCHNITZEL or pizza. Should have gone pizza, although pizza had clams and french fries (chips) on it.
So, this schnitzel is seriously bigger than any I have seen before, and then it comes with rice, chips and garlic bread. Of course I did not eat it all, but even still I have drunk about 2 litres of water since eating what I could. Should probably go hiking tomorrow then...
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2022-06-09 said:
Most of the accommodation is beach house dorm things for groups
mother on 2022-06-09 said:
Love the diesel loco. This town looks very interesting. they must have thought you were too skinny when they gave you the schnitzel. Nice hotel room with view too. why are you staying so far out of the city centre?
Hiking over Gubongsan, Janggunsan and Maraesan
After last nights enormous schnitzel, it was definitely time to go hiking. Yeosu is not really know for its mountains, it is more known for its coastal views and islands, so I was expecting poorly maintained trails and to get lost many times. It was a pleasant surprise to find this assumption to be incorrect.
As the title above says, I went over 3 peaks, starting further away from the city, walking all the way around the main area and ending up back at the train station.
I then caught the same bus back again after about 5 hours of hiking, but no fights or other weird incidents occurred on the bus today.
There are lots of photos, the white buildings are very difficult to photograph because of clipped highlights, even though I keep my camera at -0.7ev at all times. That is just something a bit boring and technical I have noticed a few times so I thought I would mention it here for my own future reference.
My hike started about 2km west of my hotel, further away from the city, near a Starbucks. Useful info in case anyone wants to find the trails I used.
The first ascent up Gubongsan goes past graveyards. The islands in the bay have a few golf courses on them. I suspect quite a few of them are resort islands, people like me are not permitted to go there.
The early path up Gubongsan was good, and 5 out of 6 paths all day were good, more on that a bit later.
A view back down to the starting point of the various golf course islands. I will say view lots of times today.
Those are all parts of Yeosu on the far side of this small mountain range, further away from the ocean. I will be visiting none of these places.
Almost at the summit. I like this photo for some reason. Will I be able to get to the actual summit today?
View from the summit was good. Tomorrow I will go walk over those bridges and visit one of those islands, the main touristy things to do.
My next 2 peaks are in shot here, in the middle of the screen. The closer one is a bit shorter than this one, the one behind it right smack bang in the middle of the shot is exactly the same height as this one, to the metre.
Gubongsan had a nice spot to sit and enjoy the view. Descending from Gubongsan was the main route most people were taking up to the summit. It was by far the busiest part, I only saw 10 other people, but most of the day I saw no one else at all.
Halfway up, here is a view of the parts of Yeosu I will not be visiting. The presumably non fishy parts.
The path down from Janggunsan started like this. I came to a fork, the left fork continued to Maraesan, the right fork went down to the city. I went left... It then became very steep, hard to follow, and filled with spider webs. I had regrets for the 30 or so minutes it took to get back down, but I was determined to go to the third peak! I am assuming the right fork down to the city is much more developed.
Eventually I came down from Janggunsan (pictured on right), brushed all the cobwebs off, crossed over the little houses in the valley by going up staircases that are apparently roads, and was ready to go up the last peak of the day, Maraesan.
The path up was ok at first, eventually it joins a different path up from the city again, and is much more developed, I would go back down that path.
And now the view from the top of Maraesan. The wooden sloped decking in most of the pics is for paragliders to run down and launch from. Sadly no one was doing that. A couple of other people arrived on the summit while I was messing about.
Here is a view down a different valley of some farms you can paraglide over, then land on that highway.
And here is a view back to the main part of Yeosu. You can see the train station on the left, where I would descend to, and the world expo site just to the right of it.
The descent down to the city was largely stairs, and came out at another graveyard. I had passed a few today.
I couldn't have the graveyard be the last photo of the day, so here is where you really come out and join a road through some apartments, just off to the left of the screen.
Yeosu harbourside walk
Tomorrow I plan to walk a loop over the bridges, so this evening I walked under one of the bridges.
This took me to an area filled with seaside attractions, mainly restaurants selling the same exact menu, a couple of hundred of them! But also 'romantic buskers' (they all had a sign saying that), dancing old folks like China, the cable car across the sky, lots of fancy cars, upmarket cafes, art galleries, poodle fights, a child fighting a cat. All the things I had seen previously on youtube when looking at Seoul walker (famous youtuber) walk around Yeosu.
And then I also found the healthiest dinner of my entire trip so far by a considerable margin, so I was thrilled I did not have to bight the head off an octopus, or have another schnitzel the size of a car tyre.
Not much of a photo, but when I came past on the bus earlier there was a line 100 metres down the street. Now there is a shorter line, but still a line of girls waiting to buy chocolate coated strawberries. They are about $5 each! This is why young Korean's cannot afford a deposit to buy a house.
I walked further around the coast than last night, a few places like this started to appear. Holiday apartments at the top.
I have heard this Paul Frank guy is famous. I wonder if this is official or just someone banking on Paul never finding out.
I started to hit the hundreds of places with the identical menu. Every place had an as seen on tv, and photos of celebrities that had been there.
There were a few groups of cars owned by Korean Princelings, I guess the horrible orange wrap on the Mclaren is why I chose this group for the photo.
Under the bridge, with the presumably government approved Korean conformist in every way menu places.
How about that for a healthy dinner? I paid about $15 for it which is a lot in Korea, but totally worth it. I did not order the drink, but the clearly gay owner / chef brought it out for me and said 'with my compliments'. Cool. Must be my fantastic hair.
And then on my way back, Chinese style mass dancing, on a small scale. Although here you get to pick your own music, China has 12 approved songs for mass dancing, with Little Apple being the most recent addition in 2014.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2022-06-10 said:
Lemon water
adriana on 2022-06-10 said:
So did you get any response to your thirst trap? Dinner looks excellent, what flavour was the drink?
David on 2022-06-10 said:
Thirst Trap -
'A sexy photograph or flirty message posted on social media for the intent of causing others to publicly profess their attraction. This is done not to actually respond or satisfy any of this attraction, but to feed the posters ego or need for attention, at the expense of the time, reputation and sexual frustration of those who view the image or reply.'
adriana on 2022-06-10 said:
what do you mean by'absolute thirst trap'? Love all the views of the islands - what an interesting place.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2022-06-08 said:
Wonder what you can buy in Texas street - assault rifles maybe?
mother on 2022-06-08 said:
Ok so some taller trees, but they are not big trees. By big trees I mean trees that have a considerable girth round the trunk ie old trees. Love the photo of the rocks in the sea looking back to the shore.