Daegu to Busan on the KTX
I did all I could above to not mention the title of a popular movie I will never see due to the fact it is celebrated universally for its extreme violence. Whenever I say Busan, you say train to? and I say, never seen it, never will.
The journey is all of 45 minutes from Daegu, and a lot of it is inside tunnels. The train was pretty empty. As usual, you do not need a ticket of any kind, no one checks anything, nothing gets scanned, just the honour system.
I did mess about a bit in Daegu before going to the station as you shall see.
Once arriving in Busan, the station is a bit out of the way, and as I am too early to check in it is a good excuse to waste time again with some shots in and around the station, as I will be leaving by a different station in 7 nights time.
That is correct, I am staying in Busan 7 nights, that is a long time for me to stay in one place. Prior to COVID that would have been a long time for me to stay in one place including my actual home. It is a good thing then my hotel is in an excellent location, very chaotic outside. My hotel is also very nice. Also the weather seems cold here, people are getting around in jackets. It was very hot when I left Daegu just an hour prior just up the road.
Now assume the brace position for some particularly procedural photos.
Before leaving Daegu, I took an early walk around the city. Here is a cafe, with seating, and no staff. You pay and use the machine, clean up after yourself. It is open all night. Can you imagine the homeless people that would destroy this place immediately in Australia? If anyone is offended by what I said, please feel free to join me on a tour of Melbourne one morning.
This rather bad photo is just to show the smoking area. You cannot smoke in the streets in Korean cities, just like Japan, only in the designated smoking shame area. The area here is actually in the middle of the road.
My Daegu hotel was in a street full of shops selling loud karaoke gear. It seems they rented it all out to election trucks. Election over, hundreds of little trucks are being dismantled and their karaoke speakers are being re packaged to be exported in as new condition.
Inside Daegu station. Thrilling. Actually it is large and quite nice, but not as nice as the store next door.
It continues over a series of highways connected by a giant footbridge. Photo is not really doing the scale any favours here.
Busan station interior. My next leg will not depart from here as I am taking a very slow coastal train. So if you want pics of Busan station, this is your only chance.
My hotel seems excellent, the bed is western style and actually has a mattress rather than a slab of slate. Deceiving pic as the entrance I am standing in is quite large, and there is more room going around the corner off the left edge of the screen.
Exploring the Nampo area of Busan
I previously got reacquainted with Daegu. On the same trip in 2015 when I went to Daegu I also went to Busan, so now it is time to get reacquainted with Busan - although there is a difference. Daegu is a smaller place, and I stayed in roughly the same location both times. Busan is a much bigger place and I am staying in a different part of town, a much more vibrant part of town. When last I was here I visited this part of town only at night, when I could not see up the hills, and the hills are what is interesting. The view is excellent. The streets are staircases, complete with street signs.
After exploring side of the hill world and the park above it, I descended back into the shopping area and discovered the biggest market I have seen yet in Korea. It was a mix of everything, dead, alive, clothing, above ground, under ground, neon etc.
Finally, it was time to find my dinner, lots of choices, but when I spotted one of my favourites my decision was made.
My hotel is right over the road from here. I was familiar with this gentrified street from my last visit.
I immediately headed to the hills and up stair cases. A sky road of sorts bends around a corner on stilts. They have installed these rollers to stop cars from scraping along the railing.
View from the park is not as impressive as lower down where it is steeper and you can see onto the roofs of houses.
There is also a lift to take you back down if you cant handle stairs, but it does not go all the way. Maybe there are more lifts.
Inside the markets was a big grid of covered streets. The stalls here are all selling boxes of cigarettes and children's toys.
For my dinner, Sapporo soup curry. The place was quite rustic, they had a giant old radio and every table and chair was different. The menu, only in Korean, went into great detail about how authentic the soup curry is, although google lens translate was occasionally getting weird, one type of vegetable was translated as Whoopi, as in Goldberg. Anyway, I ordered the 18 kinds of vegetable soup curry maximum spicy, received the warning after I pointed at max spicy from the concerned waiter, and was surprised it came with rice. I had this in Sapporo without rice a couple of times.
If they are giving rice, then I will eat it, but I am not going to daintily spoon out each piece onto the rice. My choices were, add the rice to the curry (wiser choice), construct a heat proof shield out of paper serviettes and empty the curry onto the rice (what I did). Amazingly I did not get burnt or spill it everywhere. 2 pics of dinner, that's rare! Also, it was delicious.
Hiking Geumjeong fortress in Busan
Lets get something out of the way immediately, crap pictures today due to pollution.
I culled a lot of what should have been good pictures. I moved sliders to de-pollutionify, but I can only push the pixels so far captain, shes got no more to give.
With that out of the way, I have done this hike before. Today I did it differently, not on purpose. Actually I am not sure. Last time I was here it was early spring and the wall was a lot more visible. Today it was covered by foliage.
It is also possible I walked a different bit of the wall, and I think that was the case nearer the start, but not at the end.
I guess it is also technically possible that none of this is real, and wasting time pondering something artificially constructed to keep my feet active is futile at best, potentially destructive.
This is the 3rd great wall of Korea I have been along on this trip so far, will there be more? I do not think so but you never know!
The best pics are near the start, there was less pollution then.
I will tell the story of the day with the huge number of photos.
Here is the park entrance. There is a cable car, booo! There were a lot of people hanging around at the bottom of the park, lots of temples, gardens, tea houses, a few museums. A great place to waste the day as a retired person.
Here is one of the temples, I am not exaggerating when I say there are at least 50 of them on today's route. Some of them are hermitages, and the one I wanted to see at the end I could not. More on that later.
Here is the sort of path I found. It is different to the path I took up last time. By far the most strenuous part of the day is the first bit, getting up to the ridge roughly following the cable car. There are 20 ways to go, so choose your own adventure!
Good view with a nice tree. Busan is the mountain city of Korea, everywhere is a mountain sticking up looking down on the city. It is a great shame about the pollution though.
The upper cable car station had no people, but I could see the cable moving. Just like last time, no actual car came while I waited for a photo. I decided to move on.
Behold, the wall! It was built around 1600, but there are some doubts as to who built it, why and exactly when, which seems a bit weird because it is not that long ago.
You do cross one road in a valley, and as you can see there is a bus. I do not think this is where I crossed this road last time, because after this point the wall ended for a very long time until I found it again hours later.
Here is a bit of the wall, almost overgrown by trees. The tall buildings you can see if you squint through the haze near the middle of this pic are a part of Busan nowhere near my hotel. I believe I am staying at a hotel off the right edge of the screen.
Surprise wooden deck. But, it was badly weathered, I did not trust it at all. I was careful to step only on the nails.
There is some more wall. Now I think last time there was no greenery at all when I went up that hill.
By this point I had rejoined the wall, behold, another gate. But I now realise I went a different way to last time as I took photos from a few different watchtowers last time, I think, I do not really know. Alzheimer's I guess.
I think I went a bit further than my previous visit, up to the next peak, which is the highest of the day. It was a more developed area, probably due to the above mentioned mountain school.
Summit marker. Right on 800m. Long and low today, lower would have been better due to the smog. Having said that, 6 hours, 35,000 steps, 1600m total ascent. And there were more steps than that too, read on.
OK, so I followed a path down for a while, lost it, but was on a fairly well trodden but unmarked path that was going roughly in the right direction. I wanted to get to a Hermitage I went to last time that was guarded by a dog that would not let me enter. However, I hit some roped off areas that said I could not go any further as the monks were in retreat. I had come down for over an hour already! So... I crossed over some very huge boulders (not pictured) and after an hour of messing about and checking my map I got back to this section of smaller boulders, which was an official path down that was actually open.
I was very happy with the path I was taking as it was boulder free and went where I wanted to go, but it was not to be.
Eventually I got to the very large Beomeosa temple complex. This is just a tiny part of it. It is a very popular place.
Once at the temple, I stopped my watch that tracks my hike. But it is still over 5000 more steps back to the subway station. There is a bus and I probably should have taken it, but I did not take the bus last time, so I did not take it this time. I actually stopped at the same store and bought an ice cream like last time too.
Final pic for today, now that I had eaten my ice cream, it was just a bit more of a skip down to the station, the final station on the line, and then a 50 minute ride back to the hotel. Since I have 40,000 steps today already, I will not be going too far this evening!
Jagalchi fish market
This evening I went down to the docks to check out the fish market. There were fish. The wholesale market is inside a big flash building and was closed for the evening, but outside there are old ladies selling left over fish no one wanted earlier in the day.
It is actually a really nice area, the waterfront has been developed, there are big wide walkways and a great view.
I have spotted a few other places I would like to go, you can walk over all the bridges, but it was actually a bit cold in the wind to do that tonight, so instead I went into the Lotte store to find my dinner, which did not go exactly as planned.
You order from the touch screen which is shared by 10 or so food court restaurants, and it gives you a docket, you hand over your docket at the place your ordered from, you get a buzzer. The docket it gave me had the price on it, but it was not the price for what I ordered. A confused Korean couple were nearby looking at their dockets. I wandered over to show them mine and they ran off frightened. Meanwhile another guy ordered, and got my docket. I did hand gestures to explain that was actually mine, and got down to look in the docket hole (there is probably a better term for that). We fiddled with the machine and managed to get his docket out by shoving a credit card in the docket hole and forcing it out. Problem solved for us, but now I had my docket and a bonus docket. I could have had 2 dinners I guess... Instead, I go and take it to the place the other couple had ordered for, and hand it to the lady and tell her it is not mine, she did not understand and tried to give me a buzzer, I put my hands in the air then pointed randomly at other people and shrugged my shoulders, I could no longer see the couple who ran off frightened.
So some time later, I am eating my dinner, my correct dinner, and the lady from the store where I could have claimed bonus dinner, and the male half of the couple that ran off come over and start talking aggressively at me. This was a face saving move on his behalf, his girlfriend was watching.
But, hilarious backfire! The guy who I helped retrieve his docket races over, jumps in front of them, and presumably tells them about how I figured out the issue, and helped him, the lady who I handed the docket to starts apologising to me, and the guy and his girlfriend, fled again! They left without eating a meal they had paid for.
Long story was long.
Here is the fish market on the docks. The fish looked a bit old and tired from a day in the sun. Although as mentioned, it was now cold.
The fleet is tied up for the evening. I enquired as to who would provide me safe anonymous passage to Siam. No one answered.
The local Lotte mall is sufficiently enormous. I am standing on a bridge here, it goes below the bridge then underground, and also around a corner, and they are building new bits of it too.
Inside the Lotte thing, a shame I was not in the middle, but the make up counter girls were not thrilled I was taking a photo.
The place is a big department store, then a mall with other shops, then restaurants and a cinema and an ice skating rink etc. This is the mall area, last time I was here it had a different display that resulted in me getting wet.
And here is my dinner. Mandu dumplings. Or I thought they were, not sure whats up with the Chinese writing. Actually it is a mix of Chinese and Korean writing. Fusion Jiaozi and Mandu then, not that there is much difference. Regardless, pretty bland, soup was flavourless, dumplings were huge and fell apart. Tomorrow no hiking, might go to the beach.
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shanxue on 2022-06-03 said:
wo xihuan you shan you shui de chengshi.
Haeundae beach in Busan
Today I went to the most famous beach in Busan, Haeundae - yes just like the car only not the same spelling.
The beach is famous for hordes of (eastern?) European backpackers who could not afford to go to a real beach spot so ended up here instead, possibly due to Visa issues. Today there were basically none of them in summer, last time there were thousands, in winter! The few I did see looked like US soldiers on leave, or Russians with too much money who bought their freedom to come here instead of Sri Lanka where the rest of them are hiding.
I foolishly set off for my beach day at about 7am. I realised of course that this was silly, so got I off the subway about 5 stations early and walked the rest of the way. It was sunny at this point and I was getting too much sun, but I did go through the world of giant buildings.
All of these places I have been to before, but at night, or in winter, or a different way, so it was all quite new.
Tomorrow it may finally rain, there has not been a drop in the 2.5 weeks I have been here, that could curtail my plans so now I need to come up with back up plans. Onto the pics.
Last time I was here I walked around all those buildings, which were all labelled Trump something. I wonder if they still are.
The Lotte store next door must feel inferior. People should appreciate the lengths I went to so that I could fit both of these into one photo.
The local exhibition centre is also quite grand. Apparently Busan is hosting the 2030 world expo! Whatever the hell that is... It is set to be the worlds greatest spectacle since the 1982 Worlds fair in Knoxville Tennessee, but what will Busan do to top the sun sphere?
OK, here is the main drag at Haeundae. It is often featured on youtube. At xmas time there were a thousand fully decorated xmas trees here.
Now there are flowers, and mini versions of the Eiffel tower, statue of liberty, leaning tower of Pisa etc.
How fortunate I am, to be here during the annual sandcastle sculpture festival. Which also features the statue of liberty, Eiffel tower etc.
There is loud music blasting, jet skis, wannabe pop stars, and this meditation session. I am mildly amuse that the chief meditator is sitting in front of a screen with a picture of the ocean on it, blocking out the actual view of the actual ocean.
Giant towers have sprung up on the beach front. I do not recall them being here last time I was here. Also they are made of glass instead of white cement, how very un-Korean.
There is a traditional market street, mainly deep fried seafood in batter, but also sock shops for some reason, huge shops selling thousands of socks. And....
Back near my hotel, and the cloud is rolling in. Also, a special police force has been established to monitor my activities!
Saturday night in Seomyeon
I say Saturday night, but what I really mean is late afternoon, because I like to be tucked up in bed by 9pm.
Seomyeon is the newer CBD of Busan, not that I really took many photos of banks but they are there. Go a couple of streets back and it is the nightclub area, complete with grimy streets and flyers for nightclubs being thrown onto the ground from speeding scooters.
I stayed nearer to this area last time I was here, but I cannot really remember it well, which I find surprising. It is a mix of nightclubs, beer halls, department stores (not shown tonight), Nike stores (Korean boys love to line up for a week or more for shoes), all the regular things. Quite by accident I found a very interesting vertical store / fun park / movie theatre / art gallery. It had many excellent food choices and lots to see, so it is a good thing I remembered my camera so that I can never look at this again.
Probably the main street through the back street area, the streets are closed off to traffic, but scooters find a way, and try to kill me.
Out the front of the 15 level building I described above is a makers market thing, these seem quite popular in all of Korea. If I was paying rent to sell similar stuff in the building behind it I would be annoyed at this.
OK, now I am inside the building I spent most of my time in, this is a rent and build lego place. You do not buy the lego, they have all the big sets, you pay for time to sit and build it. It seems to be a date night activity!
People go crazy for this place in Japan, here is one in Buasn with basically no customers. The lego date spot was much busier.
An entire floor is a cafe / art gallery. There were lots of paintings on display behind me with people wandering around with their bubble tea appreciating.
I think this is about level 13, there is a multi level cinema above still, but a nice view, Shot through tinted glass but I messed with the white balance.
Pork bowl. With ant sauce. No really, the translation said something about how they invented a special ant sauce to give it a spicy zing. It was great, not sure if it was made from ants or not. It is basically a Japanese style don bowl, but a little bit spicy, and under the pork was bean shoots, and the rice under that was crunchy like it had been in a stone bowl. Cheap too, anything pork related is cheap in Korea.
Of course I could have sat in the street to eat at one of these stalls, of which there has to be 500 in this area alone. I do not really enjoy sitting in the traffic to eat though. It is a little less scary in summer, in winter they enclose these things into plastic covid boxes.
I am still waiting for the rain....
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-06-04 said:
More exciting places for me to visit.
mother on 2022-06-04 said:
Sooo many interesting photos today. I need to visit all these places.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2022-06-03 said:
generally not, as I am hiking, you want to see pics of muesli bars and electrolyte drinks?
jenny on 2022-06-02 said:
Do you actually ever eat lunch as you never show pics of that.
David on 2022-06-02 said:
The first one I stayed at, the ibis in Seoul had carpet, it is a western chain
most of the hotels have entrances to your room with another door where you are supposed to take off your shoes and change into slippers, I never do that
mother on 2022-06-02 said:
Nice hotel with nice bathroom. Do any hotels in Korea have carpet on the floor? I like the girl in the train with the curler in her fringe.