Hiking Palgongsan Dongbong to Gatbawi
I woke up. There was no rain. It was forecast to be cooler. Lets go!
Today I did a hike that takes in all the areas that Daegu is best known for and took a lot of photos with views obscured by cloud. Too many.
It was long, here is a selection of the stats -
6 hours and 45 minutes (more on that below)
2149 additional calories burnt
34,000 steps, probably inaccurate
1,425m total ascent
16.7km distance but I doubt that accounts for constant zig-zagging.
But where were all the people? On one section I saw one other guy in 3.5 hours, on what is supposed to be a hike so popular people get into fights!
So without further delay, lets go to all the photos.
Palgongsan and especially the Gatbawi area are very popular, there is a bus every 10 minutes that goes from the Dongdaegu bullet train station, bus number 1. Here is where you catch it from. It also goes past the airport. Popular it may be, but early on a Monday morning it was quiet.
Yes, I have been here before, last time I did the first part of this hike and came back down again. Today I am going a lot further. I was only convinced it was the same place when I saw this climbing wall.
There is a small city at the start of the climb, lots of restaurants, camping grounds, even a movie cinema I think. I had no time for any of that, so here is a convenience store.
First wrong turn. I went down this path for about ten minutes. It would not have mattered as everything leads back to the same place eventually, but I opted to turn back when I realised. The tiny pine cones were like marbles.
View from part way up. Not a lot to see, Daegu in the distance if you squint. The view of Daegu was obscured all day.
When the structures such as this started to appear, it was clear I was getting close to something...
There is a cable car that comes up to here. It is not really near the top at all, but there is a path from here that goes to a famous hermitage. Hermitage being a place where hermits live, mythical creatures that can only be accessed by cable car.
Before visiting the hermits you might like an ice cream, or pig leg. I had no time for such delicacies, and actually I was wasting too much time...
Those antennas were my first goal, but actually I should have skipped them, they add on about an hour.
Rock garden started. Not too bad though. Later there were areas of very fine white gravel that were supremely slippery.
That little house is the cable car station. Its a shame it was cloudy from a view perspective, but great from a temperature perspective. Am I using the word perspective correctly?
Above these stairs, I should have turned right, but I wanted to get to the highest point, because I am like a cat.
Lots of barbed wire, over there is an air force radar station (I think). There were lots of fighter jets all day, Daegu airport is an air force base that also has passenger flights, a bit like Darwin airport in Australia.
This is the summit... great view, and about an hour wasted. Well I did get to see some antennas up close.
Another view of all the summit infrastructure. The path I took down from here to rejoin the main path was perilous and very time consuming. Poorly sign posted. I back tracked a couple of times to find a better version of the path.
I think I rejoined the main path here or near here anyway. There is an actual normal candle burning in that box, so someone has been here recently, not that I saw them.
Korean flag and rolling peaks. There were lots of summit areas like this to cross over during my 6.75 hours. Lots of up and down and up and down again.
That is the path. It is an example of where I thought I had made a wrong turn and wasted time back tracking to see if there was another way. On this occasion, that is the way.
A golf course ahead. It is owned by the monks! If you search the internet you will find a story about monks caught renting entire floors of Las Vegas hotels, playing $10,000 a hand poker, and having 100 hookers hired for the night. Those monks were from Korea.
This was the section where for at least 3 hours I saw no one. Despite structures like this existing periodically. The hike was a strange mix of occasional stair cases, then rocks with ropes, then even worse, steep downward slopes with very fine gravel and nothing to hang on to except for hope.
And actually I am getting close to Gatbawi here, hence staircases again for people wandering away from the Buddha area. It may look like you can go down to the golf course, you cannot. It is steep cliffs all the way around.
Those little temple things, are where the Buddha statue is roughly located. I thought I was closer than I am, still have to climb up again to get over there.
And then, here he is, Buddha, with pimp hat. Apparently the most famous Buddha statue in Korea, and its all about the hat. There are certainly a lot larger statues in other places.
There were a few people about. And loud pre recorded prayer things blasting. To get up to here from over this side of the mountain is the longest staircase I think I have ever encountered. I had to go down it now. It is 600 metres down. The average height of a step is 20cm or there abouts, so 5 to a metre, so that is 3000 steps then. That's a big staircase. There are little rest bits off to the side at regular intervals, but no toilets.
Before starting my descent, you can buy a coffee or an ice cream. Somebody carries them up to sell them every day. That's a tough commute.
A short walk around an area of Daegu full of churches
After my long day described in excruciating detail above, I barely had time for a quick shower to rinse off the dead bugs glued to me by sunscreen before it was time to go find some dinner.
Weather update, on the bus back earlier the sun came out, but now it is very grey again, but no rain. However later in the evening, it looked like the grey was going, as there was a bright orange sunset, which I did not photograph.
Predictably, I ended up eating in the Hyundai department store, as it is close by and I was starving, but I then extended my evening a little, and I now have 45,000 steps today. I have nothing funny to say so lets see if any of the pics are amusing in any way.
I see a lot of 'bikes' like this in Korea. This one is spiderman themed, earlier today I saw someone riding a dragon. I presume they are battery powered and illegal to use on the road but used on the road anyway.
There are lots of churches, there are stadium churches, small traditional churches, and brand new churches like this one still built in the traditional style. I have no idea how Daegu supports so many churches, perhaps its why the city is poor.
View from the church has.. another church. Does the small old church feel inferior looking at the enormous new church? Do the parishioners fight each other in the streets? I like to think they do. Also that is probably the first time in my life I typed the word parishioner.
My dinner was disappointing. It looks nothing like the picture on the menu. I was promised Sichuan style noodles, which in the photo had minced beef, not 2 strips of thinly cut beef. Also the photo was bright red, and if it is Sichuan style it should have numbing and spicy, there was no numbing, how can you have la without the ma.
Then I found that beyond the underground mall I already found, is another underground mall joined onto it. Lower rent, full of shops selling questionable manga.
The Daegu Arboretum and more
Today I did not climb a mountain, well not quite but sort of. Instead I visited a market, a park, a pond and an arboretum.
On my journey I passed what I think was a line up of poor people for free food about 100 metres long but now I am not so sure. Soon after passing the line and not taking a photo of it, a crazed woman covered in plastic with an ID badge hanging from her neck raced over to me yelling frantically in Korean, interspersed with 'free pasta' and pointing at the long line of people. I told her I don't want free pasta at 11am, or anytime really, and she thought I must be crazy. She continually shouted free pasta free pasta! pointing, at least that is what I think she was saying. Eventually she ran to another person yelling the same thing then pointed at me and said something with the word 'American' in it. I watched her for a while as she ran around pointing and yelling free pasta as everyone ignored her.
After that, at the somewhat disappointing arboretum, there was a high school group of boys and girls with water pistols. Most of them seemed uninterested, or had silly little water pistols. But then there were 3 or 4 guys, in full tactical armour (in 32 degree weather), helmets, gloves, all black, with realistic looking machine gun water pistols plumbed into backpacks carrying water. These would be the class nerds / dorks then.
So despite today being a rest day of sorts, 28,000 steps by lunch time. Probably should have applied sunscreen.
Oh yeah, nearly forget, the arboretum is built on a former rubbish dump. So there you go, tax right off, I am researching rehabilitation options for landfills.
This is a YMCA building, built in 1905. It was also where a secret resistance movement met to plan overthrowing the Japanese in about 1919. Whenever you see a historic marker in Korea, it is about fighting the Japanese.
Here is a small part of the Seomun market. Mainly a clothing and cloth / material / wool / sewing market that goes for many blocks, but like all markets, you can also buy anything that has ever been in the ocean.
These all appear to be identical mini food stalls. It is early so they are not serving anything yet, and it looks like they all prepare the same thing. I do not know what that thing is, but I presume it has kim chi in it. Must be traditional food for seamstresses.
Turns out the tower is inside an amusement park with paid admission that opens at lunch time, e-world it is called. Actually it was previously free and built by the city, but they had to sell it off to pay down debts.
I spotted a small mountain, could not help myself, up I go on my no mountain day. Duryu park in case anyone is wondering where this is.
More of the pond, with bridge. It was near here that a huge line had formed, possibly for free pasta.
Last one of the pond, with a colourful structure on the island, more of the arts centre including what I think is an IMAX screen, because art is best appreciated in the form of whatever Marvel thing has somebody shooting lasers out of their eyes this week.
Here is part of the arboretum. Remaining shots will all be of the arboretum. It is very large, too large as lots of it was closed down. There are lots of nice water ways with bridges and rock pools, but no water, just dust. Lots of greenhouses that no longer have plants, and the traditional Korean garden was dirt and a turtle statue. So we will focus on the parts that still have plants of some kind, first, bonsai world.
A highlight was this wooden deck back to the car park. The arboretum is near the end of the subway line and then a bit of a trek up from the subway. It does connect to proper hiking trails at the top of the park, so I would probably only bother going there if you wanted to then continue hiking somewhere else. Thats all for my morning update.
Walking around Daegu to the old station
This evening I walked a big loop around parts of the city, through a park, then ended up at the old station. Not the bullet train station which is new, shiny, full of shops and people, but the old station, which is in a fantastic location but seemingly serves no real purpose.
On my way back from there, it was time to fight my way through at least 6 political rallies for the big election tomorrow. The hordes of dancers, the trucks driving around with furious waving men in suits on the back, the loudspeakers over-driven to the point of failure, it all comes to an end tomorrow, assuming the election goes for one day. I expect I will find out it goes for an entire week.
I also spotted a few crazy folks, pic below, but not the one I was looking for. When I got here the other day there was a guy with a series of signs depicting a woman going into the bathroom, then removing her face to reveal a mans face with a beard underneath. Also there were lots of crucifixes, 666, warnings about satan and the pending rapture etc. At the time I did not properly understand the signs, but now I realise it was a transsexual bathroom drama protest. Just like the USA!
This coffee chain specialises in serving you a litre of coffee (I refuse to write liter unless in brackets). That seems dangerous.
I stood here to take my photo, then spotted this sign. I got it exactly right! It is nice to be congratulated.
For my dinner, I did not get what I asked for. I wanted the omurice vegetable curry. I thought we had agreed on that, I even pointed at a picture. The guy even recognised my credit card and said he had lived in Australia previously, but then I got hamburger covered in cheese and chips. Oh well, I of course ate it anyway, I really do not get to eat french fries very often, they were.. pretty sad.
Here is possibly the actual candidate making his last ditch attempt for team 1. This evening I saw not just 1 and 2, but 3, 4 and 5 as well! All had their trucks circling the centre of town, at times set up on opposite corners blasting their songs at each other.
And here is just one of a plethora of brave christian warriors wandering around chanting threats at everyone while waving crucifixes. He did not like that I took his photo, which I find particularly amusing, does he want attention or not? That's all for tonight, tomorrow is hot, might impact my plans, might not.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2022-06-01 said:
have you chose mountain study as your chinese name?
I only Guangjie, never actually gouwu
shanxue on 2022-05-31 said:
wo xiang qu hanguo gouwu.
mother on 2022-05-31 said:
My kind of shopping centre. Nice bridge over the pond too.
Hiking over paper stick mountain in Daegu
Before we get into today's hike, lets talk about sleeping in my Daegu hotel. The bed is HARD. The bed is lumpy. The sheet covering the mattress is thin and under that is some kind of plastic thing. Sleeping on hard lumpy plastic is not ideal, so here's what I do. It is a huge bed, with a quilt on it, so I fold that in half and sleep wrapped in the quilt like a sleeping bag. Very comfortable. Problem solved.
Now for the hike. It was forecast to be about 33 today (celsius / centrigrade / metric temperature units). So I set off earlier than normal and selected a shorter hike. The English translation is paper stick mountain, which seems to be Yongjibong in Korean, but that could be completely wrong. Regardless, this climb started off through farmers fields and then up a nice enough path. Eventually I connected to another path, and saw a few other people and a great view, but I was at the top in just over an hour.
I decided to continue across a valley, over a road and up the next peak, past many burial mounds. The park was marked on my map, and there were a lot deer running around enjoying the complete lack of other people. But then the trail just disappeared. I looked for it for about 30 minutes to no avail, and then wisely chose to back track.
Thus, my short hike became nearly 4 hours, which is fine, I didn't get eaten by a deer, fall off a cliff or buried in a set of boobs.
I got to ride the monorail, twice! All the way to the end of the line. Here is where it goes past the end of the line and comes back again as the track switches over. You may have seen a photo / video of this taken in Okinawa Japan. I have taken that photo too! Admittedly the view from where it happens in Okinawa is somewhat better than this.
Is that where I am going? I was not sure at the time. With the benefit of hindsight, it was not where I was going, so here are some new apartments, under construction apartments and hills behind them.
Bonus monorail shot as it came back as I was going down the stairs. I over monorailed today, if that is even possible.
Like I said, I ascended through some small farms, complete with enough communications equipment on poles to live stream every single fruit or vegetable as it grows to the rest of the world.
After those farms above, the road continued for a while, and got rockier and then rocky and dusty. A guy saw me and was following at a safe distance in his mini truck thing. I am convinced he was following me because when I turned off onto this trail, he turned around and went back.
Periodically, graves appeared. Someone looks after them even though they are in fairly inaccessible areas. You would need to carry the whippa snippa up.
Another set of burial boobs. In Korean culture, once the man of the house dies, the woman is considered a burden and is expected to commit ritual suicide to be buried alongside her husband at the same time, because it is hard work lugging the bodies up the mountain.
After doubling back, I walked down the valley which was full of camping grounds and holiday houses such as this one. Roof terraces are very popular on such homes in Korea.
The camping areas seem to be here so that people can appreciate this small pond. Hmm, not sure I see the attraction.
And for the final pic, back at the monorail. There is another chimney. Every new apartment development has one. Note it is painted in the colours of the apartments. This is the apartments waste incinerator. Waste is piped from apartments directly into this incinerator which generates power from burning the rubbish. So there are hundreds of waste incinerators, and since it is your waste from your apartment going into it, there is no NIMBY-ism, not that you get a back yard anyway. Personally, I am not convinced burning rubbish is a better outcome, scrubbing tech means there is no smoke or odour, and you get CO2 instead of methane which is good, but then you get ash that has to be carted away that is very toxic. OK, enough science, time to scrape off sunscreen, wash my hair, and check my itinerary for going to Busan tomorrow.
Looking over Daegu from Dongseongno Spark
Tonight I went up to the top of the ferris wheel building. It was better than expected. Excellent views. I seem to remember from previous visits that Korea still has great views from the tops of large shopping / entertainment venues. You can easily drop things over the side.
Many other parts of the world used to have good views, but someone jumped, so now, 30 foot high walls you cannot even see through.
Before going to the vertigo inducing roof, I took the monorail again, restrained myself from taking more photos, got off at a place I spotted earlier in the day, took a quick tour of an out of the way department store, then walked back into the main part of the city along the river. It was a really nice walk despite the heat. Pics came out well so lets get to it.
The monorail station exits into a store with a cool clock. OK I lied, you can see the monorail bridge in the reflection.
The store is called Daebaek, it was very quiet in the basement at this time. Much the same stuff as other department stores, just slightly less fancy looking.
Time to start my walk along the river. It was hot, but a nice breeze and mostly shade. Lots of people were enjoying the river.
I had time to stop and smell the roses. Also fishing is banned in the river, and every now and then I saw a big fish jump out of the river and make a large splash. Quite unexpected, quite.
Not a great pic, but that thing with the blue light is a robot. It brings you your food to your table. I presume it is a roomba, and also vacuums as it delivers food.
Dinner tonight was a hearty kim chi fried rice. Very delicious. I will probably make this at home when I return. Tomorrow I go to Busan, it is only 45 minutes by train, but I am sure I will make a day of it. Also, holiday is half over already.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2022-06-01 said:
Yes nice clear sky in these pics.
Do they have handwashing stations and table wiping equipment for customers in the food halls like they have in Japan?
adriana on 2022-06-01 said:
'farms were also visible on the far side of the mountain' could be a really nice enlargement if you could get rid of some of the smog.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2022-05-30 said:
Mala as in malatang
Numbing spicy soup
Mala is numbing sichuan peppercorns, la is chili, the combo is in basically all sichuan foods
adriana on 2022-05-30 said:
I like the stance with the teddy. Far too long a hike today - you look like you have just completed a 24 hour marathon. Eat more! La = peppery? Ma = many things, but usually horse or mum. So what did you mean?