Hiking the loop to Gwanggyosan from the Reservoir
Title is a humble brag, but compared to the last 3 hikes, this one was very civilised and easy. It was still long, about 16km in total including an unexpected detour at the end, but it was also never very steep, and when it was, there were stairs. Most of the way had hessian carpets, there were plenty of signs, public toilets, US military bases, and plenty of other people.
Probably a few too many people, they did thin out nearer the top as there are shorter loops to take, but I decided to stick with the purple sign posts that marked the official city endorsed trail
On a weekday, the people you do see are housewives and retired folks. Housewives talk on their phone the entire way, retired folks carry a radio with some sort of talkback call in program going on warning everyone to be on the lookout for foreigners with monkey pox.
There is one other group you might see, the dreaded company team bonding exercise. These are the worst people to run into on the trail. There is normally a fat guy vomiting who has never done anything like this before. They travel in a group of 50 or so to get in your way, and because they are in a big group, they have a lot of courage to talk shit about you as you go past. In my opinion, any group of hikers greater than 2 people is annoying, cut it out.
Now, with all that out of the way, it was an excellent hike, probably my most enjoyable but least challenging of the trip so far. There was plenty of nice views and nature, and still a few nice bits left to climb up without stairs. 5 out of 5, can recommend, would do again.
Hiking provisions. Whatever water is cheapest, heated up iced coffee (I drink that before starting), banana (I eat that before starting), muesli bars. I do not need any of your fancy gel pouches and $5 each protein infused Gummi bears.
The hike start point has a few convenience stores and a very convenient bus stop. The bus comes very regularly and goes direct to Suwon station. So convenient.
My course starts and ends at this reservoir. If you think back 2 days when I walked around a reservoir, this is the upper reservoir that feeds that lower reservoir. So much talk about reservoir, more later too.
The lower parts of the trail were smooth enough for mountain bikers, ignoring the no bikes allowed warning signs.
There were 2 graves like this. My guess is they are either recently discovered bodies from the war, or soldiers that died on a military training thing of some sort. The grave stones look new, so do the flags. Now that I click on it, they have the logo of the parks authority on the bottom, park rangers who died in the line of duty?
A rocky section of the trail, but note the ropes and garden bed things surrounding the trees. No chance of getting lost today.
Another part of Suwon, that is not the way I came up, but you can come up that way. There are enough trails to keep you entertained for a year.
Those two towers I think will be the furthest point I go to today, time will tell (Update, yes, they are behind the ridge in the foreground, but they were my destination at the far end of the loop).
Probably the only choose your adventure section of the trail. This was also the quietest point, ideal for public urination, of which I availed.
Very near the top and now it becomes a US army base, with lots of warnings about not taking photos which I ignored... for now. There is a razor wire fence, I have expertly stuck my arm through it for this shot.
View from the top, the green ridge would be the way I go down, the way up is around to the left of this picture.
After fleeing the army, it is time for the selfie. Although you can see more army base over my right shoulder.
You very briefly, for about 100m, join this road that goes to part of the army base. It is all fenced in, you cannot just wander all the way down the road.
Eventually this becomes a plantation of sorts. There are a lot less plantations in Korea than in Japan on the sides of mountains, at least in my experience. My experience is pretty substantial (another brag).
The only dicey bit of the hike was right before the end of the mountain and getting back to the reservoir. Something was wrong here, there's no way you should need to abseil.
But abseil I did... and then I realised the highway overpass is new, and the trail has been moved, and the map is not updated. But wait there's more to come.
After abseiling, I wandered around the reservoir on a boardwalk for a couple of km, wondering why there were no other people. Then I got to here. Path closed, kindly climb back up the side of the mountain thanks. A pretty sizeable detour!
Finally, I came back to the reservoir. Here is the dam wall. I have done dam wall jokes before, so won't bother today.
And then finally, back to where I started, you can see the antennas at the right. The way up is to the right of this photo, the way down is from the antennas, down the ridges to off the left of screen. If you come to Suwon, do this hike.
Eating a formal Korean dinner in Suwon
As threatened, for dinner I went back to the Lotte mega complex near Suwon main station, up to the top level, and then had my pick of every single place because I was there right on 6pm for the senior citizens sitting.
I joke about putting on pants, I wore long pants some other nights too, it is certainly cool enough, and I would have no qualms about going into such a place in my Steve Irwin style shorts anyway, but it seemed apt that I would wear pants for a formal Korean meal.
Other than my meal, which I will gastronomify further below, I wandered the streets, both around the main station, and then the other side of the main road near my hotel, which is located near the Suwon City Hall.
Over the road from me is very busy, and on a Friday night, a lot of Rolls Royce's getting about blowing their horns at pedestrians. Unfortunately this night life area is one where cars are banned at night, unless you are important, at which point pedestrians are expected to move for your lazy rich ass.
I made sure to brush up against every illegally parked fancy car.
Here is a street full of bbq places near the station. I would like to have bbq but it is hard to do as a solo diner. Some of these ones here use hot charcoal, they were not really open yet.
The local doggy day spa. I actually saw this out the bus window earlier, so I was thrilled to go past it again on my walk.
To get to my dinner I had to get to the other side of the tracks. I don't think Lotte and AK (the department store on this side) have come to an agreement to make that easy. After going through a car parking building with stream of people doing the same as me, I found a way, but for some reason they have roped off the best spot to enjoy the view.
And here is my dinner. The soup is boiled beef and flavourless seaweed. Then you get all the side dishes (Banchan if I am not mistaken). There is hot and cold Kim Chi, bean sprouts, spinach, some great pickled chilli things, tofu, mushrooms, potato noodles, rice in the metal bowl... all good so far, and fermented sardines. The sardines is the only one I don't eat. But this style of eating as well as hot pot where you leave half of it, is why Korea wastes so much food and had to invent ways to deal with it. Also it is common to get a pair of scissors with your meal here.
And for the final pic of the day, a Renault Twizzy. I last saw one of these at the Palace of Versailles in France where the police use them, but here in Korea, normal people buy them and drive them. I doubt you can legally drive them on a road in Australia, which is weird because motorbikes are ok. Oh yeah, tomorrow I go to Daegu.
Suwon to Daegu on the KTX
On my train ride here I learnt that Daegu is generally about 4 degrees hotter than any other city in Korea, due to being in a basin surrounded by mountains. That seems to be true so far.
I also learnt that it is the poorest part of Korea, but also with the richest suburb, but also the highest amount of gang activity! I better look out because I am easily influenced and might inadvertently join a violence gang.
Getting here was on the half bullet train. Half because from Suwon To Daejeon, it runs on the slow line, in order to service Suwon, before joining the fast line where it goes to 300kmph. It seems there are a few different versions of the bullet train that use different parts of the slow line and serve intermediate stations, as a result it actually took the same 2 hours to get from Suwon to Daegu as it would take to go direct from Busan to Seoul. And if you are not intimately familiar with the geography of South Korea, that is completely meaningless.
Regardless of the train, temperature and socio-economic pitfalls, I will be here for 5 nights, so I booked into a youth hostel! To celebrate, a small amount of terribly boring photos.
Before leaving Suwon I took a stroll around the local park, which has a comfort girl memorial donated by the senior citizens who use the park. These are a huge controversy around the world, apparently Japan just secretly paid Germany millions to remove one, and something similar happened in Australia a few years back.
These bricks are made of tyres. Why can't we have nice things like this in Australia? I know everyone loves a good tyre fire that goes for a decade, but bricks are also cool?
Here comes my bullet train. Complete with speed blur. I also learnt today they are French designed, based on the TGV. I bet if I look at one of my previous Korea trips I already mentioned that.
This being a Saturday my train is completely full. Luckily I reserved a seat a month ago. The seats are split into two warring factions who face each other, ready to fight to the death.
And now, I am in Daegu, proof in the form of a sign. Every Korean city has a slogan, I believe Seoul landed on 'I.Seoul.U'. From where I am standing here, Daegu is not at all colourful, so the sign should be taken down. The actual bullet train station in Daegu is east of the city, and in a bit of a wasteland area, last time I was here I walked to my hotel from here, it was far, today I took the subway.
The bullet train station does however manage to have a giant Shinsegae and the inside of the station has lots of shops and restaurants, so when I get here early in 5 days time I will have stuff to see.
Now for my hotel. I was suspicious of this one. The world natural gas conference has been on in Daegu all week, it finished yesterday, but hotels are scarce because of it. I selected this youth hostel. But, it is part youth hostel, part business hotel, part resort, part wedding hall, part conference centre, part bomb shelter. Most of the reviews are from backpackers complaining that the shared kitchen is not big enough and that the staff do not arrange day trips for you. I am on the hotel floor and my room is great. Probably the best room of the trip so far.
Here is the bathroom, complete with blue light to demonstrate cleanliness. So there you go, I will eat a red bean filled bun now.
The huge shopping area of Daegu
I have been to Daegu before, in 2015. That makes me the only person you know that came to Daegu twice on a holiday. Make of that what you will. I remembered then that the shopping area is bigger than anywhere else perhaps outside of mainland China, and that holds true today.
The area South of the Daegu station extending for a couple of kilometres and a similar amount in either direction is all pedestrian shopping areas. The main drag is currently being re paved in sections, so its a bit run down, but the parallel streets were very busy and colourful, as the Colourful Daegu marketing would have you believe.
My hotel is right on the edge of this area, over the road from a multi level supermarket, with a surprise underground mall connecting it all up which I had no idea was there.
I took quite a few pics for an 'evening update' so lets get to it.
My hotel has a laundry but it looks a bit crap, so I researched nearby coin laundries of which there are 2, more on that tomorrow. However on my way there, I passed this establishment. They don't beat around the bush in Korea.
Here is the surprise, double decker, underground mall. Double decker as in there are 2 levels underground. B1 seemed to be quite a bit more populated than B2. I am yet to decide if I prefer B1 or B2, further research required. B2 had a pile of random shoes for example, and an old lady selling shelled peas who also tells fortunes.
I danced around in the fountain for a while before remembering my camera is very definitely not waterproof. I know this because I already replaced this camera a year ago after the last one of the same model went for a brief swim.
This is the main junction, and the area currently being fixed up. When last I was here a junior baseball team was being introduced to the population on that stage to rapturous applause. Reminds me of the famous street in Ueno.
Eventually you get to the Daegu station, not the bullet train station, the normal one, and its obligatory giant department store.
I found a place in the basement for a great early dinner. Some sort of spicy beef soup... with kim chi. Basically pho with kim chi and more chilli. I did not need to add chilli. This is rare.
The streets are lined with convenient drowning pools in case your kids misbehave. I do not think these are volcanic in any way, and no one was using them.
Next we have one of the amazing headphone stores that Asian cities have. All the brands you read about but have never seen in Australia.
Can you catch covid via ear wax? You can catch something, and here you can try hundreds of in ear monitors.
Comments were made about ABC-mart, here is a huge one. I just checked, they are Japanese, but also have stores in Korea and Taiwan.
Just a random street, artbox seen on the left is a bit like Tokyu Hands. They also have bulk bins where you can mix your own selection of chocolates, but that is unfortunately something no one would dare do in a post covid world.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2022-05-28 said:
Our pussycats were disturbed? lots of walking areas for me.
mother on 2022-05-28 said:
I used to teach English to workers from Kogas.
Short hike up and over Apsan
When I last came to Daegu, I climbed up Apsan to the city observatory. It was not far at all, in fact in an attempt to brag, I called it a recovery hike as the day prior had been a much longer one. Well today I was after a shorter hike so I had time to do my laundry, so I decided to go around the back of Apsan and over the top to the observatory. A bit longer than the last time, but still under 2.5 hours in total. Now that I have an app that shows hiking trails, these sort of things are easier, and there are hundreds of trails and in this mountain park they are all very developed.
It being a Sunday, the place was heaving with people, especially the lower hessian rug trails that link temples. I am pretty sure I got caught urinating in the bushes at one point by a very happy looking auntie.
As you shall see, reconstruction of this part of Daegu is also in progress, perhaps the poor city found some money.
After descending and observing people walking backwards, I re-traced my steps from last time down the side of a suburb on a hill, past a US army 'fort' as they like to call it.
Then I provided some entertainment by doing my laundry, more on that below.
Last time I was here the monorail was under construction. It is now completed. I should probably go on it at some point. I am having a flashback to a cow being cut in half under the under construction monorail last time.
Crossing under the road, there is a tunnel full of paintings like this. How many times did Japan do bad stuff to Korea? Or are these guys Mongols?
The path around the back of the mountain along a valley is very flat, and rug covered. There are a series of temples and public toilets to admire through the trees.
There were many outdoor gyms today. This one has 6 or so benches with full size weightlifting bars and big weights on them. A nice place to hang upside down for a while.
Here I am about halfway up the back side of the small mountain. It was a steep staircase most of the way, well over 1000 stairs in a row.
The view down was nice. There is definitely less pollution today, but I am doing what I can to improve the sharpness through the smog in these photos.
Still had to get to that tower, but it is not far, however it was hot in the sun, but cool in the shade, nice breeze hence less pollution.
And the view from the top. Now I was anticipating the view from half way down the front side of the mountain where the city observatory is, it is a good thing I did not rely on that view as you shall see.
It wasn't all staircases and hessian rugs, heres a nice rocky bit to give your metatarsals a workout.
There is a cable car. Pfft. Actually I recall last time I thought the cable car no longer existed. Looks like it does but I did not find it last time.
The city observatory! Under reconstruction. The view from there is excellent. It used to be a glass deck... I wonder what happened? The area between here and the cable car is very developed, lots of what looks like function halls to rent out. I had originally intended to climb up here at night to look at the city lights, but decided I am never awake by the time it gets dark. It would have been disappointing if I tried that plan.
After descending down the front side without a view to be seen, I arrived at yet another temple. Prayer of some kind was in session with chanting and gonging so I did not venture too far in.
And just as I did last time, I walked down the flag covered street in the middle of nowhere. This time I investigated. Grilled Tripe Street! Every restaurant serves nothing at all except bits of tripe on a stick that you self grill. Popular enough that you need a flag covered street with 50 places to grill some delicious stomach lining.
And as suggested, this left time to do my laundry. More than enough time as the dryer only took 20 minutes somehow. Anyway, I put my dirty clothes in my suitcase and walked out of the hotel. The check-in lady who speaks no English was worried I was checking out. I told her and pointed at the laundromat over the road, but I don't think she understood.
So then I go to the laundromat, and a crowd of old folks who spend their day out the front of the 7-eleven next door not buying anything formed to watch me load my underpants into a machine. A lot of comments were being made and one old lady whistled. I took out my camera and they fled!
So then I go back to drop my bag back in my room so I could go to the supermarket while my washing was going, and the check-in lady wants me to talk to someone on the phone, I showed her a pic of the laundry on my camera and she let me go without talking on the phone... Then I put my clothes from the washing machine into the dryer, and went back over the road to the hotel to get my suitcase, and this was just too much for the old check-in gal, she threw her hands in the air, put them on her head, let out a huge sigh and then put her face in her hands on the desk. 5 minutes later I returned with my clean laundry in my suitcase, and she was still facepalming on the desk.
Such a tough day for her trying to deal with someone who does not speak Korean and does not want her help.
Hyundai department store and poke bowl
Tonight I went to a car showroom that is actually a department store and ate a poke bowl in a pink themed store for girls. That is the kind of nonsense I get up to.
Hyundai department stores are in most cities in Korea. They are luxurious. I think they are a relatively new concept as there seems to be youtube videos of new ones opening quite often. Also the roof fell into the basement of one under construction a while ago, at least I think that was a Hyundai store.
I never actually go into any part of these stores except the basements, where the food is. The same applied to David Jones in Melbourne and Adelaide, but they closed the basements in both of those and no longer serve food at all. So there you go, if you want to find a nice food store, you have to go to another country. That is quite a dire thought given that half the actual food in flash food basements around the world is advertised as being from Australia.
And now after all that, I did not eat there, I might tomorrow. I did want to eat there as there was an advertisement for 'hot sushi' as in hot gimbap rolls. Which were presumably deep fried. Still I was keen to try that, but alas, I could not find the store. So realising I had escaped deep fried rice and vegetables wrapped in seaweed, I instead ate just about the healthiest thing imaginable.
One other quick food observation, Japanese style but claimed by Korea pork tonkotsu cutlet places outnumber all other options combined. I feel as though this is a recent thing, a bit like all the hotpot places in Melbourne.
The store on the right appears to be called Donga, and despite saying grand opening is not new. To the left, the borg cube looking thing is the Hyundai store, and despite appearances here, is much bigger than Donga.
Basement food section as discussed, from inside the supermarket looking out longingly into the casual restaurant area hoping to spot deep fried hot sushi.
Basically adjoining the luxurious ultra modern Hyundai department store, you get a traditional market laneway selling dried deer penises for medicinal purposes.
OK, I am fairly certain, but not 100% sure, that this is not an actual octopus. It is something sweet (rice mochi type of stuff) made to look like something else. All of these things are, I think the one next to the octopus is made to look like nachos. There were also giant prawns, kim chi, fishcakes etc. And there were 5 stores selling this type of weird atrocity in a row.
Another oddity, this is a selfie photo studio. There are 20 or more of these within a few blocks of each other. Some have costumes you dress up in. Then you go into a private room and pose for photos, and I kind of wonder what else you get up to in those private rooms a bit like those private karaoke places.
And here is the sort of place I am not ashamed to eat at, despite its pink decor and girly music playing.
My poke bowl was delicious, came with cream of mushroom soup, and had a lot more good stuff in it than you normally get in a poke bowl, including mushrooms, pickled carrot, baby tomatoes, rolled up egg things (eggrolls I am guessing! Like they put on top of rice and call sushi), and the beef was very good quality. Now I am back at my hotel early because the weather has been updated, rain should be gone by morning, weather should be cooler tomorrow... long hike day it shall be.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2022-05-30 said:
You ascertained that from one photo
jenny on 2022-05-29 said:
Many girlies in this area.
David on 2022-05-29 said:
20 minutes and I had it on low heat. The drum inside is big enough to do 2 full quilts at the same time. The washing machines were also enormous, when I came back to change my clothes to the dryer I looked through the washer window and thought someone had stole my clothes, but they were just all below the door height.
mother on 2022-05-29 said:
A 20 minute dryer!. Need them in Japan.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
elz on 2022-07-29 said:
the army base over your right shoulder, or over your shoulder at the right of the photo ?
David on 2022-05-28 said:
cutting the kim chi and potato noodles
adriana on 2022-05-27 said:
but what are the scissors for.
David on 2022-05-27 said:
16km, 5 hours, I only ran a couple of bits. The detour at the end probably added on 30 minutes
jenny on 2022-05-27 said:
How many Km was the hike and how many hours for you?