Undusan loop hike from Daeseong-ri station
Today I went and climbed a small mountain, it took ages, it was the wrong mountain entirely. Allow me to explain.
Every trip I go on I make a spreadsheet, it has days listed, columns for flights, hotels, trains, and then hiking options.
Those of you who have used excel or google sheets will know that the column to the right cuts off whatever was in the column to the left that would have otherwise overflowed to the right (accountants know what the hell I mean). Anyway, I had typed in Cheonmasan, a very popular, scenic shorter hike, and then to the right I had typed in the name of a station with a lot of unknown hiking trails, Daeseong-ri, as one of my backup options but never finished that line of thought. My spreadsheet therefore took the appearance of Cheonmasan from Daeseong-ri station but it was 2 different cells. OMG that is enough explanation.
So I had done all my research for Cheonmasan, so scenic, popular enough that people were complaining about the installation of some staircases that replaced ropes, only takes 4 hours up and back.
I turn up at Daeseong-ri station and set off towards the green line on my Naver map app that seemed to be the main trail nearby, assuming it was the many times already aforementioned, Cheonmasan.
I was already a bit surprised when I had to walk 4km to the proper start of the trail, normally that would make a hike unpopular.
Then I saw not one single other person, all day, not even one in 5+ hours. I was also surprised early on at the lack of signage, too many spider webs indicating I was the first person on the trail at least today, no staircases as had been discussed, no view...
Checking my map I was wondering how the hell these people got to the peak and back in 4 hours, I was nowhere near the tallest peak on the map, then I worked it out, I was at the wrong place entirely. Oh well. I could double back, or do a loop course, I chose the loop, bad idea.
The path down from my lower but longer journey to get to a peak with no view was almost completely overgrown. I relied entirely on ribbons to guide me. At times the dead leaves were knee deep, and I slid down the ridge, checked my map again, spotted a ribbon, continued on.
At least it was not as rocky as the previous days, until the very end.
So here is my pro tip, if you ever find yourself at Daesong-ri station, with the urge to go on a hike completely alone, by all means go up Undusan, but stick to the left loop up, and come back down the same way!
Here is the highway through Daesong, it is actually a tourist town, with many little cottages in the hills.
I think the area appeals to older people, a lot of the accommodation seems to be time share things, and this here is old person golf. You play with 1 club, the ball does not go up in the air, and the ball is bigger than a regular golf ball. Pollution was a bit less today.
Someone with a nice bike is holidaying here. It was up a dusty dirt road though, which I am sure he hated.
This is the summit, no view. It was just before getting to here which took roughly 3 hours, that I realised I was on the wrong mountain. I was not even half way to the peak I thought I would get to today, which would have been the wrong peak entirely anyway. I planned my way down from here, chose the loop instead of retracing my steps. In hindsight, bad choice.
After many hours, I was back at the river, which provides no easy access to the train station, you have to walk a long way and back around along the highway, weird.
Walking through Itaewon
Eleven years ago I came to Korea for the first time, went to Itaewon, ate taco bell. That was a mistake.
Today I went to Itaewon, and ate nothing. It is all bars and clubs, and Russians. Lots of Russian tourists wandering around, normally with babies and a huge husband yelling, carrying lots of shopping.
I guess they could be Ukrainian refugees, but I doubt it! So are Russians allowed to enter Korea at the moment? Lets find out. The K-Eta page which is the tourism visa that is not a visa thing I had to get, lists Russians OK to enter for tourism. The Ukraine is not on the list. So there you go. Korea loves Putin.
Itaewon used to be for US troops as there was a base nearby, right in the middle of Seoul. I think the base is gone, but the street is still where all the bars and nightclubs for foreigners are. It has what is advertised as an international food street, but its nothing but bars and clubs and lounges and etc.
Actual normal food places that did not have a highball 8 drink minimum or whatever were few and far between, so since I also did not want to get up in the club or down on the floor, I retreated back to Myeongdong.
Oh yeah, tomorrow, new city, Suwon.
The view back towards the Seoul tower from here is quite nice. I caught the subway but had I not already done too much feet related activities today, I would have walked over the hill.
None the less, here is the main street. I stood in traffic that drives on the wrong side of the road to take this shot, risky.
I could have had my dinner at eggslut, however its just an expensive burger joint. I am assuming the place is named after the woman on the poster.
Back in Myeongdong and clearly I have selected the wrong hotel. This one has robots at the check in desk.
And as is often the case, last photo of the day is my dinner, it is cubes of beef under the egg, rice, salad, pickled things. Very good, but a lot.
Seoul to Suwon on the Mugunghwa
Seoul to Suwon on the what now? In Korea there are 5 classes of train or 7 if count ones that are retired but still listed on the schedule, in order from fastest to slowest they go KTX, ITX, Saemaeul, Nuriro and Mugunghwa. Normally you only take the KTX. And just to confuse matters, the journey I took today can also be taken on the regular subway which is not one of the 5 listed, or the KTX, but I took the Mugunghwa. Later in this trip I will take a much longer coastal journey only possible on the Mugunghwa, that will be fun.
Anyway, it was only a 30 minute journey from Seoul to Suwon, but I made a day of it by stopping at cafes on both ends, wandering around the station, taking photos of the train, standing around doing nothing, occasionally changing position to stare at the departures board, that kind of thing. Great fun.
Once in Suwon, I transferred back to the subway to get to my hotel. The Seoul subway network is ridiculous, extending 200km as the bird flies east to west and over 100 north to south (rough guesses). I think that might make it geographically the 2nd biggest 'joined up' subway system after Hong Kong / Shenzhen / Dongguan / Guangzhou / Foshan, assuming that is now finished.
So there you go, that is a lot of train talk. Now weather, how thrilling. It was very hot when I left but now it is cloudy and cool.
Later I will go and wander around Suwon.
Starbucks premium, which roasts its own coffee and milks its own cows on premise, also has a traditional kneel uncomfortably while you sip area that no one was using despite every regular seat being in use.
Before heading to the station there was time for a wander around the massive Namdaemun market. It is mainly a clothing market that goes deep underground, but here is the fresh food section.
And... the interior of the station. Korea still operates long distance trains completely on the honour system. There is no ticket scanning, no ticket checking, no barriers, just wander onto the train. It has always been like this and I do not know of anywhere else in the world where this is the case. People who live in Korea and regularly travel by KTX train say they have never had a ticket check in years of travel.
Here comes my Mugunghwa. Yes it is an old diesel. I think this class of train is the only diesel class remaining.
Inside it is dated, but very solid and comfortable, big seats. Hardly anyone onboard. This particular train goes to Daejeon, a city I went to last time I was here.
Suwon station is also fine, linked to a flash department store that had a great food section in the basement. Perhaps some more pics of that another time when I am not dragging around my bags.
One of the main streets of Suwon, I think, I have no idea yet really. I know there is a shopping street quite far from where I am, but then the city walls and lake area are in the opposite direction.
Now for a discussion on COVID and recycling. For lunch I went to Paris Baguette, along with 'Tous le Jour' they are the ubiquitous Korean owned sit in cheap bakeries. There are plenty of higher end options but I am no snob. And yes, they are Korean despite being all over Japan too. Anyway, Korea often leads the world in environmental things, they were the first to ban food waste, and it is now illegal to use a take away cup if you are sitting in at a cafe. However, due to COVID, everything is plastic wrapped and vacuum sealed in multiple layers with signs explaining how they take hygiene seriously to offset opinion about the plastic disaster. It took me a long time to get into my sandwich through its triple defence layers.
Here is the inside of the store, every single item is plastic wrapped, none of them used to be. If you buy a bag of 6 cookies, each of the 6 cookies is wrapped, then wrapped again.
Final pic of the day to appease my mother, my hotel room. Smaller than I thought. Very cheap, less than $40 per night Australian. The bathroom is very modern and large with a full bath, but due to weird angles, I cannot photograph it. All Korean hotels seem to have Japanese style space toilets. At first I thought there was nowhere to sit and work, but the bench thing under the tv is on wheels so you can pull it over the bed, or sit on the edge of the bed to use it as a desk, which I am doing now. Very comfortable actually.
Gwanggyo lake park stroll
If you enjoy watching people wander around places on youtube you might have seen various videos featuring the Gwanggyo lake. Everyone goes there after dark, when the buildings shoot lasers and whatever. However I could not wait that long, so instead you get to see apartment buildings, sans lasers, in the daylight.
I walked to the lake from my hotel, surprisingly quite far, and even more surprisingly, it became bloody freezing, with even a bit of rain. I needed a jacket!
I did however get to explore the giant numbered apartment building complexes to find my dinner. They are all very gentrified. Lots of places to eat, lots of florists, lots of cafes and dessert bars, very few actual drinking bars. The places to drink are hilarious as you shall see below.
Given that I don't drink and I like flowers and cake, I would probably like to live in one of these numbered buildings made by either Samsung or Hyundai to a standard design. I do not know if people own them, rent them, are assigned them, are incarcerated in them or what but they remind me of Singapore where they are assigned but you rent to own if you want to. Maybe I will do some research, probably not.
Most of the apartment complexes feature shopping malls at the bottom and running through them. Very modern, very clean, not particularly Korean, probably more Japanese and Thai places than Korean.
There it is, Gwanggyo lake park, complete with the double g Koreans love to throw into words. Threatening skies would eventually deposit a small amount of rain for a few minutes, back to a week of sunshine tomorrow apparently.
Around the lake there are some apartment building strip malls to urinate at, not buy anything. Please do not put Maru in the oven.
The water here is clean, it is a reservoir for drinking water fed by some nearby mountains that I intend to go to either tomorrow or the next day. Where I come from reservoirs have fences around them and are not surrounded by huge apartment buildings. While you can drink tap water in Korea, apparently nobody does, I am sticking to bottled.
Here is the housing association permitted bar. Not just a bar, but a "Craft Beer Pub". That is the entire thing. The obvious goal is to make it as unappealing to alcoholics as possible.
Here is my dinner. It was great. No rice! Lots of interesting mushrooms. Looks similar to something I might make at home, only it costs about half the price to eat out and have it here, even though it is imported Australian beef.
I was so cold, I caught a bus back. I moan about buses a lot, but with the Naver app on my phone I keep going on about, it is really easy. Drop a pin and it gives you the ten best options, and when you choose your preferred option, it shows you where the bus is live on the map. I am lead to believe this works nation wide. Thats all for now.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2022-05-25 said:
How big is suwon? more facts required.
David on 2022-05-25 said:
Yes I also like train pictures
You might like to consider installing a Chinese font so you can do "我喜欢所有的火车照片" just by entering the pinyin and selecting the character you want.
My understanding is its far easier than entering Japanese
shanxue on 2022-05-25 said:
wo xihuan suoyou de huoche zhaopian.
Walking around the Hwaseong fortress wall in Suwon
The main attraction in Suwon without a doubt is the wall that circles the city. Well it almost completely circles a part of the city, there is one small bit that is gone and not rebuilt.
This is the second best city wall I have walked a lap of, sorry Suwon but Xi'an in China is superior, please do not deport me yet.
The Suwon wall is still great, and it is a UNESCO heritage site, so you can read all about it there, but the crux of the story is, a King in one of those slow motion crying K-dramas based in the time of the Joseon dynasty built it to honour his father, a prince, who refused to commit suicide when his father, the previous king, demanded he do so. For failing to suicide on command he was instead buried alive inside a rice chest. So now he has a fortress to protect his rice chest. Although I have no way of knowing for sure because at the time of writing there are over 9000 Korean shows set in the time of the Joseon dynasty, but I will just assume at least one of them is based on this little nugget of tear fodder.
Apart from the wall, there is what is called a temporary palace at the centre of it. I went there as well, temporary means it was never the official palace but built for other reasons such as travel, war, boredom with the main palace, somewhere to hide your mistress, that sort of thing.
Anyway the wall was great, and worth the trouble of staying here in Suwon for a couple of days.
On my way to the wall I passed lots of huge new suburbs under construction. The old man guarding the construction entry gate was not happy I was taking a photo.
No chance of getting lost today, I decided to start and end the wall at the top, the hill is called Paldalsan. There are lots of big rocks surrounded by ropes and signs warning you to keep off, so I am assuming they are graves.
I found the wall. There are people on the other side of the wall, but I could not get to that side. I had to walk back down and back up again once I got on the correct side of the wall. I am always left on the outside of everything.
Before entering, and at many points along the journey, there are public toilets. This is an AAAAA+ national tourist experience.
Now that I am inside the wall, heres some more shots of the wall from near the top, actually this is the wall extension to the adjacent part of the fortress, a sign told me so.
There is Suwon, to answer a previous question, population estimates vary greatly because it is joined onto Seoul and various other cities, its just one huge urban area with the occasional UNESCO heritage site or mountain.
Suwon the other way, or some other city. You can see parts of the wall if you look hard. Also there is a major air force base just to my left, military jets were flying circuits all day, very common in Korea.
I have descended down Paldalsan along the wall. I should point out, there is no cost to walk along the wall.
There are 4 main gates but probably 8 smaller ones. I think this is a smaller one, I read signs that went on about bastions and turrets and what not, but it all just looked like a wall to me.
Lots of people pose for photos, I tried to stay out of their way, you can see one lady here striking a pose for a camera person out of view.
Here is the other end of the Suwon sewer stroll, I think they could market it as that, has a nice ring to it.
This is mildly concerning. An archery field. No one was shooting arrows while I crossed over the top, but what if they sneeze as they fire?
I had now finished the wall and headed to the Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, where a Korean ninja show was in progress.
No Korean palace is complete without lasers. The palace was a little underwhelming and had an entry fee, all of about $1.50.
Here is part of the wall that is no longer connected to the wall, right in the middle of the old market. It is probably the biggest of the gates.
Then I found an entire network of covered shopping streets and markets. I did not know they were here, I became lost, then I realised it also goes underground and became further lost.
Exploring the Suwon station area
Before we get into it, if you read my site in the blog fashion of newest post first, oldest post last which it defaults to if you use the search, all posts, featured posts etc. then this is the 1000th post. I only make posts when I am on a holiday, almost all of them from overseas, and generally 2 posts a day, so that is 500 days overseas typing this crap and uploading shit photos for my own viewing pleasure. Congratulations.
Back to the station, and that is exactly where I went this evening, back to the main station. When I arrived in Suwon at this station I stayed indoors and underground so I had missed most of it, but it is a very nice, very busy area. More so than the part of town I am staying at.
There are huge modern department stores, alleyways, restaurant filled streets, lots of people, and probably a great sunset in pollution free skies if I had of stayed out past 8pm.
So Suwon is a nice place, with lots to see and do, tomorrow I will ignore all of that and go north of the city and climb a few small mountains.
Shopping street conveniently covered in shade cloth. There is a traditional market area around the station as well, but that is more of a morning thing.
One of the designated walking streets, which is exactly what a sign said. I somehow made it look a lot less busy than it was.
I was starving, so it was time for an early dinner of brown sludge and rice. I asked for stupid spicy, and it was. I was thrilled by this. By asked I mean I selected the maximum number of chillis on the ordering screen which came with some additional warnings.
Still going with the election. An army of 1's. Some non official members are beating drums and giving suspicious looking salutes behind me.
Part of the Lotte megaplex is like an Australian style mall, except the top floor is at least 50 restaurants. Some formal, some not so formal and more inviting to a pleb like me. Maybe I will come back for dinner tomorrow night.
The Lotte department store basement is quiet, but nice. I think it is very new. More good places to eat. No eggslut to be seen though.
It took me at least 10 goes to line this up, I am half crouching to get the sign above my enormous head. This was near the exit to the subway, so thousands of people were streaming past watching me pull off this ridiculous feat.
Back at my hotel, and to end my early evening, a hike up 96 stairs (6 x groups of 16). Another great feature of Korea, free exercise opportunities all the time.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2022-05-27 said:
yes, although curiosly, I saw a pork schnitzel place, or cutlet / tonkatsu as the Japanese call it, and they had a sign explaining that it is a Korean invention stolen by the Japanese. The sign was translated into English and Chinese, but not Japanese.
Adriana on 2022-05-26 said:
Was that Japanese curry by any chance?
jenny on 2022-05-26 said:
More toilet details required
jenny on 2022-05-26 said:
Long security gate is my reading of the Chinese characters. Love the photos today. I want to visit the shopping arcade
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
Brian on 2022-05-25 said:
Enjoying all the photos David not sure if I'd want to eat a burger
jenny on 2022-05-24 said:
I see they have the Japanese Henna hotel (weird hotel) and ABC Mart - Brian's favourite shoe shop. I like all the alley ways.
David on 2022-05-24 said:
My watch said 35k
But I slid down a lot of it on the way back
adriana on 2022-05-24 said:
So how many steps was it?