Hiking the Ansan Jarak-gil wheelchair accessible trail
It is election day in Australia, I voted before I came here, otherwise I would be jailed on return. However it is also election day in Korea. They just had a presidential election a month ago, so I do not know what today's election is about, but as you will see below, they take a very Korean approach to convincing people to vote. I assume that unlike Australia it is not mandatory to vote punishable by deportation.
My trip today was to the worlds longest wheelchair accessible East Asian mountain trail located in the northern part of South Korea, congratulations on being number 1. I joke, but it is a great thing, the only problem, I saw 1.73 million people walking the trail, and not a single wheelchair. If you walk the whole course I believe it is about 8km long, and I can confirm there are no stairs. It is mainly boardwalk, with a lot of switch backs to gain height, but there are also some smooth hard packed gravel bits and some regular footpath / sidewalk bits. I type this in case anyone in a wheelchair ever reads this.
This area is very close to the centre of the city, 10 minutes by subway, you could easily walk to it from Myeongdong past the main palace.
As is often the case in East Asia, there is nowhere to get a coffee at 7am, almost nowhere except Starbucks until 10am, and it is worse on weekends. This is frustrating. This sentence is also out of place in this rant, because I just remembered it now, anyway, back to discussing the wheelchair free wheelchair trail.
The entire time I was on the trail it was snowing jasmine. I was covered in sticky pollen all day, as you will see below they have pollen removal compressed air systems set up to rid yourself of this nuisance.
Finally, whoever keeps asking what the weather is, low 20's, no wind, some cloud but mainly pollution, low humidity.
Election day in Australia, election day in Korea, I haven't decided which Kim to vote for yet. Whatever the election is for, it seems to come down to voting either 1, or 2.
I wonder who this guy is voting for, he was here when I started my 'hike' and still here when I returned. Note he is sorting rubbish next to a sign that says no rubbish. He should therefore be arrested.
To get to the start of the trail I passed this historic jail. I did the full tour on a previous trip, it was excellent. There used to be an air strip here, and one way they would execute prisoners was to tie them to the bottom of an aircraft, and make low passes over the air strip, dragging live prisoners along the ground while a crowd watched on. Creative.
An example of the path. It may be short, relatively flat, and wheelchair accessible, but most people come with their full K2 ascending gear and award themselves ribbons. There seemed to be a number of what I suspect were military reunions going on with old guys standing to attention and saluting an even older guy before they all ate an ice cream.
This looks like it may have been on fire recently, the boardwalk showed no signs of being burnt though. I suspect the timber used for the boardwalk is modwood, a blend of sawdust and plastic. That is my materials science observation for the day.
Another day, another day of terrible pollution. Those big mountains in the distance are where I was yesterday.
As I suggested above, the election campaigning in Korea includes hiking trails. Most Koreans are out hiking somewhere, so there were probably 50 groups of people such as this advertising for either 1 or 2.
A couple of spots the path meets up with a road. Great news, I can have a coffee. And it was a very good coffee too. Much like Australia, literally everywhere in Korea now takes credit card. I no longer need to rattle with change. We have COVID to thank for this. I hear in Japan this is still not the case, and they still insist on cash everywhere and make you sign a piece of paper with a shared pen so they can stamp it and fax it to someone to print it off, sign it and stamp it again for a $2 coffee. Hopefully I will find out soon if this is actually true.
Here you can see one of the many outdoor gyms that are located on the trail, this one has gymnastics equipment like parallel bars and rings. I pulled off a couple of back giant Salto 180's much to the astonishment of all.
I featured some 2's earlier, as an official journalist covering today's proceedings, to remain completely impartial, here are some 1's.
Like I said, not a single wheelchair was spotted, and all the wheelchair chargers look like this, covered in dust like they have never been used.
And as promised above, here is the special compressed air station for blowing the jasmine pollen out of your lovely hair. I had a great time hanging out here shooting the breeze.
Conveniently, the local subway station had 4 bakeries to choose from, I chose Paris Baguette because they had seats away from everyone else, croissant sandwich was delicious.
Eating Bibimbap in Hongdae
Election day update, looks like Anthony Albanese (Anal) has defeated Scott Morrison (Scomo). Korean election update, its neck and neck between 1 and 2. Although they are still campaigning now, so maybe the election lasts more than a day.
It is Saturday here, as it is in most places, so I thought I better go to the most popular place in town, Hongdae. Last time I went here I ordered grilled chicken and salad and got served fried chicken with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.
This area is sandwiched between a heap of different universities, I was clearly the oldest person here (there, tense, what is that, past present and future?).
Anyway, you could suggest this is Korean Harajuku, it is much larger than I remember, and much busier. Too busy. Due to fears of covid and ice cream chicken, I settled on a dependable favourite for my dinner.
I wrote this to be confusing, but and if you are Australian you might know what I am talking about, I sound less confused than Anthony Green, he needs to pass the baton.
Which reminds me, Korea still gets the Australian ABC propaganda station, which is doing the live election coverage and earlier had AFL football on, I thought that service got shut down by Scomo? Ok thats enough dribble, except I probably should have taken more pics, but it was very busy and hard to do so.
Start of the busy Hongdae area. I am sure it looks more impressive after dark, but I have a big day planned for tomorrow, so have to rush back to my hotel to beat fat cat.
Most of the stores here are not the big brand stores, perhaps similar to Harajuku, that means they are selling cheap crap to people who photograph it once and throw it away, like Harajuku.
It goes on and on, quite a few people have gone maskless, every foreigner was maskless, one guy with a French accent decided I needed to be told personally by him, that it is now legal to remove your mask outside, thanks for that, please get out of my face.
It is concerning how dirty the feet of these teddy bears are. Do they get up and walk around? Almost reason enough to start drinking so I can see that happen.
Streams of people coming from all directions. I deliberately went early as video of this area after dark looks, uncomfortable.
I had to go about 6 blocks back to find a place to eat at, I settled on the local grandma run standard Korean food outlet. These all have basically an identical menu consisting of the same 6 or so things. Some Koreans eat nothing but these 6 things their entire lives. It is a well known fact that this is 100 percent true. Anyway, you use a ticket machine and pay with credit card, convenient, it spat out the ticket of the person who ordered before me, mass confusion. My number comes up on the cuckoo clock alerting LED screen and I present the ticket, its not my meal, grandma has no English at all, I told her "Bi bim bap", and she understood that, but had no clue how I got the wrong ticket, so she yelled at me, finally the person before me who presumably got their meal without a meal ticket explained to poor old grandma what was going on. Just as well, she was really starting to yell at me!
Long hike from Yangpyeong over Yongmunsan to the temple
Today was probably the longest hike of this trip, a full 7 hours. I expected it to be 6, I was wrong.
As is the case with most mountains in Korea, this one was jagged rock, nearly the whole way. My feet are ok, but if this keeps up, I don't think my shoes will last much longer.
To get to the starting point, I changed subways and then sat on an all stops above ground subway (???) for an hour that goes east of the city to Yangpyeong. This was a bit of a disappointing looking city, a few high rise apartments, then some farmers fields, and lots of abandoned footpath (sidewalk) construction
Anyway, we were not here to explore Yangpyeong, after making a wrong turn and ending up in a dead end graveyard (see what I did there?) I quite quickly jogged up to the start of the long hike.
The first part was misleading, a nice hessian carpet through the relatively flat forest. This was in fact, a national forest, and had lots of camping areas. Korean camping areas are flat wooden decks raised off the ground, you sit at a low table and sleep while sitting up holding metal chopsticks.
Anyway, this soon became the jagged rocks and it was an arduous, but excellent slog through the low cloud and fog that ruined the view for basically the entire day. Of course as soon as I finished the hike, clear blue sky.
Lots of poor quality pics below, so lets get to it.
Here is Yangpyeong as seen from the entrance to the graveyard. One of these buildings is not like the others.
Those mountains in the mist are where I am going, I have to wade through a brown swamp to get there. Today it was cold in the morning! 12 degrees, I don't think it got much over 20 all day.
That would be the first, lower, peak. They do not really have names, the whole collection of peaks is called Yongmunsan, which is suspiciously similar to the mountain in Taipei city, Taiwan.
Despite rocks, I made good progress early, and thought I was ahead of the schedule I had dreamt up in my head. This is a shot of the way up to here from down there.
There are lots of flowers and lots of bugs along the trail. I engaged macro mode for this poorly focused shot.
There are lots of ways up, every few hundred metres another trail from somewhere seems to merge with the main trail. I highly recommend the Naver maps app if you plan on hiking here, it has every trail and topography info.
STANCE. Enough said. Actually, that entire wet area is sweat. Like I said, I had been making great progress early on.
Occasionally, a staircase was added to the mix. I suffer vertigo with those steps you can see through. Also, that's not dust on my lens, its one of many flying bugs, fortunately they seem to be a non biting kind. There are also giant, slow, bumblebees.
I think, this is looking back, I had come over that peak earlier, and back down a bit again, so I can go up again.
Looking back from down again, over up from before, then down to the start. Also, another bug. Wait, is it in the same spot as the previous bug shot? Hmm, next shot has no bug.
Here is a group of people enjoying lunch, I suspect they came up from a different shorter trail, on close inspection there is a road that comes a fair way up the side of the mountain from the west. I hope you appreciate this important geographic information. The reason I suspect people came from other trails is there were a couple of sections that were crowded, then a couple of stretches where I saw not another person at all for an hour or two.
Head shot. I have a dead bug on my nose. He died from sunscreen intoxication. I firmly believe sunscreen is killing me.
I know I complain about the rocks, but this is beyond a joke. Some of these are huge, and wobble when you step on them. Perhaps today is a good day to die in a landslide.
As I approached the main peak, I got a bit confused. As you will see it has what looks like military installations on the top, which is common in Korea. According to my map, I had missed the summit, there were red flags and signs on the summit side of the trail. I therefore thought this area with lots of ribbons was the new unofficial summit and the actual summit was no longer accessible, I was wrong.
After walking past the summit, there is a big new staircase / ladder system to the top, and so, here is the view from the top. Lots of structures up here, presumably all brought in by helicopter.
Some sort of military base down there, possibly a missile defence system. I have climbed up on something to get this photo.
Official summit marker, only 1157 metres, but I had come from sea level. Actually my watch tells me total ascent today was just over 2000 metres which includes all the ups and downs.
The descent down to the temple was long, but well marked. The markers however had often shifted in landslides. This was a bit concerning.
I was glad to arrive back at the temple. If you look closely you can see those military structures on the mountain peak between the two peaks.
A bit more temple. This whole area seems to be a holiday area with camping grounds, sporting grounds, some sort of outdoor cinema, a sewer to play in.
The street down to the bus stop was also very nice. And on the subject of the bus, for once it came almost immediately. Generally I hate buses, they never come when advertised.
Now for something hilarious. The Korean election continues, here is a bunch of 1's putting on a live performance for my bus as it arrives at the train station. Note there is a guy singing on the back of the truck while old folks dance in their number 1 outfits. I like to think this might be the politician singing himself, with his harem of old folks. I am changing my vote to a 1.
Here is a shot from the train station at Yongmun, a different town / city to the one I set out from this morning.
Eating dinner the at the first place I could find
OK, so someone ate a Pangolin, and now they have monkey pox, and they came to Australia and a few other places, and so now Korea is debating if they should deport everybody from a monkey pox infested country and close the borders.
If they find me I assume I will get the anal swab monkey pox test followed by deportation, just in case the swab does not work.
The only way to stop this from happening again and again, is to kill all Pangolins, they seem to be the source of all our problems.
With that out of the way, it was time to immediately find my dinner, at the nearest place possible, because I was starving, having burned over 2400 calories earlier. The place I thought I was going to was closed on Sunday night.. what? Thats not the Korean work ethic I have come to expect. Actually quite a few places were closed Sunday night, who knew.
Anyway, I found a decent quiet fast place, and engorged. This left enough time to go hang out at the sewer with everyone else and see what floats by.
Instead I ate some pasta. Now, Korea does a lot of Japanese style food, ramen, curry, but this is the first time I saw a place selling Japanese style pasta. For people wondering why pasta is Japanese, it is what they put on it. I chose beef and cream sauce with chilli, which is not too Japanese although the beef is thin slices like you would use on a Korean bbq, but there's plenty of seafood related things with seaweed available as well.
Then it was time to descend into the sewers again, this is a handheld 1/6 of a second ISO 1600 shot. I love my little camera.
Actually, for some reason I messed up and did not this real last shot from a long day, which is balloons covering grass. I do not yet know what the deal with balloons is, but there are lots of sculptures and promotions across Seoul at the moment using balloons as a mascot. Perhaps they are trying to fill the oceans with balloons that float away on the cool summer breeze.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
drude on 2022-05-23 said:
Partially sated by the Stance, I now hopefully await the hair blowing video. It is slightly disappointing to hear that a day of mountain climbing only burns 2,400 calories, though - seems like it should be more.
jenny on 2022-05-22 said:
That's better
David on 2022-05-22 said:
Youre too fast, I was still typing them
jenny on 2022-05-22 said:
No comments with the photos?
Visiting Bongeunsa Buddhist temple
Before we get into all things Buddha related, it is time for some unrelated observations.
First of all, Korean TV news in English is very much blaming gay pride festivals for the spreading of the Monkey Pox. I cannot make that up. Specifically the Darklands festival in Belgium. Although the news story I saw then went on to mention that undesirable behaviour at such festival is known to spread all kinds of diseases.
Next up, possibly related, we have the alarming new fashion trend of Korean male thirst traps (who is lost now?). I have seen a number of guys walking around wearing boob tubes. All of them had oiled 6 packs on show. So this will be a thing soon everywhere. I am going to get ahead of the game and start that trend in Melbourne as soon as I return, in the middle of winter.
Finally, before we go to Buddha, while riding the subway, there was a bunch of schoolgirls, roaming along the carriages. This was the type of subway train where every couple of carriages there's a gap with 2 doors you can open to go the next group of carriages. So some girls go through, and the door shuts, a girl following smacks her face on the closed door, and then the door behind her closes. So now she is stuck in that tiny gap that is kind of partially outside apart from the accordion baffle rubber thing, and because she was not watching as she walked into the gap, she did not realise there is one of those Asian sliding door style buttons to open it. Wild panic ensues, with screaming as she tries to rip the door open. After about 10 seconds a guy pressed the button to open the door and she fell out back into my carriage, and a group of girls all raced to fan her with whatever they could find, while simultaneously streaming it all on kakao talk (I presume).
As for Buddha, it is a nice place to visit for an hour or so. Not a huge place, very colourful. Lots of loudspeakers and digital signage and ATM's no one uses anymore everywhere. The best part, no entry fee.
It is hotter today, and still the terrible pollution, no actual cloud, but hard to discern blue. An exciting new development in Seoul is these umbrellas at most pedestrian crossings so you can wait in the shade.
There is always a protest about something. They generally last for months and end in bloodshed. I have no idea what is happening here but it is out the front of the google and salesforce headquarters.
There is a nice meditation trail that loops up and around the back of the main temple region, but there is also blasting music.
Nice view through the smog. The buildings here are all part of the main exhibition centre, which was all closed off with pedestrian detours around it. I dont know if Joe Biden was there, they looked to be packing up.
The main attraction. Now as is often the case, I was not sure if its bad etiquette to take a photo here where people are praying, but then I saw a woman set up her mat, and a mini tripod, which she put her phone on, and checked everything was framed right, adjusted her hair, and started praying. Buddha, with Korean characteristics.
There are 3 layers of Buddha, the big main one, surrounded by the medium sized ones in a semi circle, then on the outside, thousands of tiny Buddhas.
Over the road is the enormous COEX mall, which is completely underground. I have been there before, but now it has a 700m running track. Do you think when they installed this they expected a middle aged long haired foreigner possibly carrying monkey pox to run on it like an idiot? Because I did.
There are over 100 places to eat in this mall, including the Hyundai department store basement shown here which is very fancy. It seems if you work in an office in Korea, you go out to a proper sit down lunch, as everywhere was packed. I decided to wander around until places cleared out enough to find somewhere not crowded to eat. Everywhere, even nice looking restaurants, is order and pay by touch screen.
This library is often featured in western media about tourism in Korea. If you want a book from the top shelf, you might die. There is a very similar one in Taipei, I am not sure who did it first.
My lunch is a bulgogi beef fusion salad bowl. Not bad, pretty pricey, but made fresh while I waited. There is rice under the salad. No kimchi was on offer, outrageous.
Back near my hotel, and its another protest. Today started and ended with a protest. This seems to be an anti vax pro Jesus protest. Verichip is an injectable biometric chip linked to Bill Gates. Good to see Korea also enjoys sex trafficking pizza shop conspiracies.
Late afternoon walk up Namsan
Every time I come to Seoul I take a walk up Namsan, shake my head at the lazy people who take the cable car, and then take too many photos of the view. This trip is no exception. Although this time there is a lot more pollution, and it gets dark later so its lighter than the other times I went up because I like to go to bed early.
There were tourists. A lot of them were paired up, one young American, one young Korean, weird, then I saw them in a prayer group, so that answered that, Jesus exchange.
I did overhear a Korean explaining in English in response to a girl complaining it was cold now, that Seoul has the highest average difference between day and night temperature of 'any major city in the world'. I have no cut off for what major means so I will have to take his word for it, but I can attest that each morning when I go out it has been cold, and by 5pm its already getting cold again despite staying light until after 8pm. In fact some nights it has gone down to 9 degrees.
Weather discussion was requested, there was some. I have no other amusing stories for this evening, so here are some pollution photos.
Brace for incoming view. Here is the view from the start of the cable car. I stood nearby and told people they were lazy.
The cable car does not seem to run often due to lack of customers. Instead they wait until it is absolutely full and start up the line. Good plan to maximise covid.
A bit of the way out looking towards Gangnam or Gimpo or something, away from the old part of the city across the river.
View from part the way up looking towards where I am staying in the older part of the city. I like to convince myself the pollution is adding to the spectacle.
I have taken the same photo in this spot previously. I will do a comparison soon. I will probably not enjoy that. I have purchased new masks, so now I also look like a duck, more so than usual.
Last time I was here, I think there was a lot of construction going on, and this entire part of the tower complex was inaccessible. There are a lot more shops and cafes than I remember. There is almost no one here, which was great.
Now a couple of shots of the main view, I left the people in the shot to make it slightly more interesting, including a couple of tourists you can see there.
Last view shot. Total lack of crowds on a Monday night. I guess it was a bit early, most people come for the sunset.
My very unappealing looking dinner was delicious, but huge. I is a tonkatsu style pork cutlet thing covered in curry. Koreans love all parts of the pig, and there are tonkatsu places ranging in price from extreme high end with tiny serves of special royal pigs all the way down to less than $10 for where I got this huge meal that was probably road kill. Actually the photo does not convey size well, it was a much bigger plate than normal, more like one of those joke schnitzels they serve to truck drivers in Australian pubs so you get your photo on the wall and die of a heart attack soon after while behind the wheel of a road train.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
drude on 2022-05-23 said:
Some good band names here for your future projects - Verichip 666 Hell, and my personal favourite, Jesus exchange
mother on 2022-05-23 said:
good
David on 2022-05-23 said:
see above, ate more
mother on 2022-05-23 said:
rest day today. You need to eat more if you are going to go on so many long hikes.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
adriana on 2022-05-21 said:
Meant to comment earlier on the lack of rubbish on the streets. Do Koreans have the same tradition as the Japanese of not walking round eating like slobs and dropping their rubbish everywhere ?
Honorable Chairman on 2022-05-21 said:
Dude, drude, stance, hair blow, everything is possible.
adriana on 2022-05-21 said:
Sorry, Drude
adriana on 2022-05-21 said:
I agree with dude
drude on 2022-05-21 said:
I would like a video of you using the pollen blowing machines on your hair please. You have also made us wait too long without a new photo of The Pose, so I am hoping for that soon.