Taking a bus from Naha to Nago to climb Mount Nago
This morning I got up too early as always, went and waited for it to be late enough to buy a coffee, and made a last minute change of plans. I had plans to go places nearby, that will probably now be tomorrow, as today I found a mountain to go to on Okinawa! Yes more boring pictures of view and paths up mountains, who is excited?
To get to this mountain I had to get to the second biggest city on Okinawa, Nago. This was a 2 hour bus ride and quite expensive at about $20... each way! Later in the day I got my return journey for only $10 as the driver gave me money back and told me in English that he wished more people would visit his home town of Nago, so that was nice.
Anyway, finding my bus was needlessly difficult in Naha. Theres a big modern bus terminal, and signs to ticket counters, all shut, signs to information offices, all shut, signs to collection points, temporary signage showing the wrong location etc. This caused me to miss a bus and I noted that lots of other people were walking around in endless circles looking perplexed. One little old lady managed to awaken a whale sized man from inside an office who very reluctantly slithered out and barked orders at various people in Japanese. This was no help to me, I eventually just stood on the corner where I knew the bus was coming from, waited for the one with my number, and then ran along the road after it until it stopped!
I hate buses.
Anyway, Nago itself, as you shall see, is not much of a city. The mountain is apparently behind the city castle ruins, all I could find were kids playground equipment and a scout camp, and then I could not find the trail head. No problem, I followed a track around the back of the mountain and found an excellent challenging path up to the summit, and then followed the easy path down through the scout camping grounds. This made my day more rewarding, so rewarding I bought a chocolate covered croissant and got chocolate all over my white from sunscreen face.
Perhaps thats why the driver on the return journey gave me my money back? He felt bad for me and my various facial disfigurements?
Near my hotel, a back hoe has climbed a pile of rubble. You dont really see this in Australia, but its very common all over Asia. They always look to me like they are about to topple over.
This sign is not where the bus left from, and its a crap photo, but its here because the bottom half is a giant e-ink screen. I had never seen such a thing before. Pressing the button to the right of it (hard to see here) caused it to refresh in a manner just like an Amazon Kindle, except its the size of an A2 piece of paper.
Before heading up the hill I checked out the beach. The sand looked crap but the water with the mountains in the background looked nice. The journey was a mix of nice green areas and very industrial areas. Much more industrial than I was expecting.
A view of the city of Nago, and my mountain behind it (I think). I notice my usage of brackets is back.
Its a covered street. But I would not call it a covered shopping street, since all the shops are shut. This was the case later in the day when I returned also.
These are photos of Japans version of the Danish style dolphin hunt! Just like in Denmark, boats surround pods of dolphins and force them into Nago bay where hungry locals stab them with spears until the sea turns red. Its a great festival the whole family can enjoy!
This is the nice path ascending to the castle ruins, somewhat ruined by the steel hand rail. Ruins ruined. I amuse myself.
This path was a false start, it went up to a grave of some importance, probably the actual ruins, I then had to follow it back down again.
I still wanted to get up that mountain. Its not much of a mountain, but its a mountain, and I will take any mountain if thats the only mountain on offer.
After following an access track around the bottom for a few kilometres, I found a sign posted path up, complete with ropes! This was a very good challenging path, good to go up, probably not great to come down. The only issue was I had not brought my gloves with me, so my poor girly hands suffered on the rough ropes!
The abandoned city of Nago. Its easy to confuse the names Naha and Nago, at one point I started typing Naho.
The best photo of me yet!!!!! The very humid weather is giving me an awesome afro hairstyle. I dont try to fight it.
The path down (now that I found it from the top) was very easy, with stairs most of the way. I was glad I accidentally found my alternative path.
The final bit before emerging in the scout camp was a small ravine of moss covered rocks. At times I had to place one foot in front of the other to fit.
Despite the long expensive (but then partially refunded) bus ride, I was very glad I found myself a mountain in Nago.
The many cats and markets of Naha
Tonight I saw a lot of cats. Japan is full of cats. If you are a cat you should probably move to Japan.
Actually I saw lots of cats on the mountain earlier today as well, every now and then one would come out of the woods and follow me for a while, but I never got a clear photo.
This evening I also explored some of the shopping streets and discovered they are a labyrinthine rabbit warren of shops, markets, boutiques and cafes. Probably the most interesting shopping area I ever saw in Japan. I dont really understand now how it went for so far and off in so many directions without crossing a road. I studied the map at a few points and found I was facing in the opposite direction to that which I expected.
At one point I came out for air and to get a bearing and found there was a bit of a park on a hill, so up the stairs I went. You can see the view below, but what you cant see is the guy who was up there on his own (before I arrived) who was attempting to balance a ping pong ball on his nose while filming himself. Perhaps he was training to be a seal at the circus.
First I headed off into a side street, not a great photo but there were hundreds of little restaurants, often with people sitting on coke crates outside. This reminded me a lot of Taiwan.
Ivory is still available for purchase in Japan. The great Japanese elephant has been extinct for centuries.
I couldnt work out if this guy was selling stuff, or just proudly displaying his collection of empty bottles.
Strangely, much of the actual market stays open until 9pm, including fish and meat areas. I am used to these shutting early. Some stalls are shut but at least 50% are open.
I think I found the end of the market. There was every kind of street covering, bright and new down to dull and old as depicted here.
These are not fishing supplies, apparently its a store dedicated to trinkets to hang off jewelery. Weird.
Heres the photo I took in the park where the guy was making a movie about balancing a ping pong ball on his nose.
Park cat. He was also quite happy to pose for me, even the orange pre focus light thing didnt bother him.
Some of the shops are nicer than the usual tourist fare. None of them have a NO PHOTO attitude that I picked up on.
An underground zoo. They have the usual things like owls and hedgehogs for you to torture, but they also claim to have an otter? Otters have terrifying sharp teeth!
My dinner tonight was delicious. It is wholemeal soba, advertised as 'brown soba with germ', lots of vegetables and allegedly, some local Okinawa pork. It was the best noodles I have had on this trip so far and very cheap.
Walking from central Naha to the underground Japanese navy headquarters
As depicted in numerous computer games such as battlefront, Okinawa was the site of one of the bloodiest and longest battles of WW2. US forces needed to establish an air base on Okinawa to control the region. They were successful. One of the last places to be overrun was the navy headquarters tunnels in Naha, so thats where I went today.
I expected it to be on the ocean and have ships or submarine berths attached to it, but instead its built into a hill under some castle ruins. I suspect the old castle already had some tunnels under it, so they extended those.
Because I enjoy roasting in the humid sunshine, I walked a long round trip from my hotel to the headquarters and back again, just a 20km journey. It was interesting enough, I stopped at multiple supermarkets along the way to gawk at stuff and buy a banana, buy a bottle of water, use their bathrooms or use their rubbish bins.
In one particular shop a small guy in uniform decided to stalk me, following me around the entire store, so I played with him for a while by taking stuff off the shelves and pretending to read it upside down, pretending to drop it, putting back in the wrong place temporarily. I could see it was sending him insane, but then why was he following me so obviously?
Anyway, the navy tunnels were quite interesting, it is probably not a full day trip and it is hard to get to by public transport according to the internet (no bother to me though).
I planned only a small outing today because it is WASHING DAY! And washing day never goes smoothly, today has been no exception so far.
The washing machines or laundry as they call it are located inside the hotels public bath area, which is closed between 10am and 3pm for cleaning. The machines are not in the actual bath area but the change rooms. So I wander down with a suitcase full of dirty clothes and attempt to enter the change rooms. An army of cleaners stand between me and the entrance making a cross over their chest. I thought back to my recent military training but opted against rushing the enemy.
I tried explaining in English, then Chinese, no go, eventually as I stared them down, they called down to reception and asked me to speak on the phone, I just said... laundry? And the phone was snatched off of me before I could even here an answer. A long conversation ensued and finally I was escorted the final 3 metres of my journey to the washing machine.
I was amused that not only have the orange cones and barriers been erected around these road works, but some rope has been strung across the area as well, just in case a helicopter planned to land on this spot.
Whoever makes the black and yellow rope in Okinawa is rich, its everywhere! On the mountain yesterday there were kilometres of it.
Of course, there was a small shrine to hike up and enjoy the view. Below we have old people golf. Its like golf but you throw/roll a 'bowl' into a big hoop placed on the 'green' that is actually 'brown'. 'Quotes'.
The only 'train' in Okinawa (yes more quotes and brackets too) is the Naha monorail. I like impressive infrastructure.
Racist! If you have kept up with the news you will know that Japanese schools are expelling students who do not dye their hair Japanese black.
This is a very impressive playground on the side of a hill. I can think of 10 ways to die here. I got half way down before I got stuck.
Here is a view of a small rubbish dump on the grounds of the old castle with the main part of the city behind it. That rubbish is visible from the viewing platform on the navy headquarters grounds, quite surprising!
Now I am inside the museum. The main claim here that I am suspicious of is that the Japanese naval offices were finally defeated when they were gassed by US marines. Internet says -
'However, despite the intense anti-Japanese feelings and the steady increase in budget and personnel for the Chemical Warfare Service (CWS) during the war, the United States never used lethal gases in the Pacific.'.
It is a very small museum but there is quite a bit of English. The people selling the tickets told me to spend time reading everything in the musuem in detail.
Darkest photo of the day. I find it weird that apparently they had to dig it by pick and shovel in a hurry, yet they have carved fake tree logs / roots into the walls?
Some of the tunnels are very narrow and low. There were not a lot of emergency exits, I was checking!
I cut through the backstreets to get back to my hotel and its off limits washing machine. Naha is not all bright and colorful tourist friendly areas after all.
A crazy beach with a view of a highway expressway
Tonight I went the other way from my hotel, to the beach. The beach was very strange. There are a couple of beaches, they both face multiple freeway overpasses as you shall see.
I believe they are fenced in as well, so there must be sharks or something that will kill you in the area.
This reminds me, there are snakes in Okinawa, for whatever reason the navy headquarters museum had big signs explaining all the different snakes, some had cartoon characters in great pain suggesting they are poisonous. I did not see any snakes on my hike yesterday.
After the beach, I walked past the beach side juvenile detention centre, and then past a combination bowling alley, golf driving range and learner driving school. I really do think the owners of that place realised they had a car park far too big for the number of customers they still had at their other attractions, so they turned the car park into a driving school.
My journey back to the neon zones and food took me through some very boring looking red light districts, where the lights were still off. I suspect I am too early to pay 3000 yen per hour to have toast fed to me.
In good news, I know what my dinner is tomorrow night. Generally what always happens is, I spend an hour wandering around deciding what to eat, without ever really finding the perfect choice. As soon as I walk out of my semi reluctant choice, I immediately spot 20 better places. I think there is some kind of term for this behavior, so to defeat that, I know exactly where I am going tomorrow night, and its really cheap and in a basement. Exciting times indeed.
Its an Osprey! Have I ever seen one before? I think I did. Here in Okinawa they are despised, and cited as the main reason they want the US air force bases gone. The Osprey you see, also known as a tilt rotor plane, has a bad habit of firing off one of its rotors and then spinning to the ground and killing school children.
As I walked down narrow streets to the beach, I wondered what that enormous building was. It was not a building at all but a Chinese cruise ship.
And here we have the beach. So beautiful. So natural. So freeway. The so (x) joke is worn out. I dont care.
Every Japan trip I have to do a vending machine photo, so here it is. These ones were in a weird spot in the lawn.
Around the corner a bit is another crappy beach, with a nightclub barbecue area at the end of the concrete. There was no one there but the music was pumping. Drop it like its hot.
Here is a particularly bright area of town. It is the new bus terminal I ranted about yesterday. Its also a department store and restaurants. I found out it only opened just over a week ago. No wonder the bus area is disorganised.
Its a Max Brenner bald headed man chocolate shop. Only interesting because they went out of business in Australia a week or so ago. I hear they buy sniper rifles for Israeli soldiers! From wikipedia -
The Strauss Group states on their website that they provide care packages to soldiers in the IDF's Golani Brigade, leading to activists targeting Max Brenner stores for boycotts Boycott, Divestment and Sanctions campaign. In 2011, pro-Palestinian activist group Students for Palestine organized a series of protests outside Max Brenner outlets in Australia. The protest in Melbourne led to 19 arrests.
For dinner tonight, Japanese pasta. It is soy sauce flavoured, with an almost raw egg on top. Also Chinese sausage. I think I have now had all the main food groups of Japan. Now I can do repeats.
Mecha robot things, attack! This is the best of the junk shops because of all the weird things like this they have. They are at least 5 times busier than all the competing stores.
Okinawa seems to be particularly interested in selling small trinkets like this. Generally of the cat / dragon hybrid thing but also turtles, whales, dolphins, all of which are delicious.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2018-11-06 said:
I dont think I mind a beach with a freeway. Gives you something to look at other than endless sea.
David on 2018-11-06 said:
No, I dont suffer from claustrophobia, just a fear of no mountains.
mother on 2018-11-06 said:
not gas, but flame throwers did the job. Did you feel claustrophobic?
Taking the monorail to Shuri to see the Shurijo castle
Todays post is largely for my mother. I did things my mother will enjoy. My mother is just about the only reader of whats written here, so now I am pandering to my audience. Today I went to a castle (the only castle) and then a shopping centre (which was an accident spotted from the monorail).
The castle is at the end of the monorail at Shurijo. Actually the monorail is being extended, I saw construction of it very far from Naha, but for now, the castle is the end of the line. And its not really at the castle.
At first you will think you are at the castle, but Japan has gone to great efforts to make you walk around the castle park to the front entrance. On my return journey I further questioned the logic of this, as there is a really nice park to walk through all the way from the gate to the monorail, but instead they have people directing you up a road with no footpath.
The castle was constructed in 1992 yet is somehow a UNESCO world heritage site, which to me makes the very concept of world heritage worthless. I guess it is nice, theres huge new bits of wooden tea house corridors to walk through while they yell no photo. Of course you have to take your shoes off, because the glue is still drying as its so new.
The main castle is red, which apparently is the Ryukyuan style, but right now as you shall see, you get to see some painters drop cloths that have an image of the red castle printed on them.
History time, The Ryukyuan kingdom was ethnically Chinese, at least at the government official level. It only officially became part of Japan in 1879. I had no idea.
Entrance to the castle compound and the 'follow the route' path tour is about $10. It is very very popular with school groups and tour groups. I think its probably worth it. Now brace yourself for a whole lot of photos of not very much today.
I like the early morning light reflecting off the open sewer. I took a similar shot here in the afternoon on another night I think.
Due to Japans ongoing labour shortage, there was a call for volunteers to drive the monorail. I knocked 3 other people out cold to claim my rightful place as monorail driver for the day.
If you come to Naha, ride the monorail, the views are awesome. Towards the castle it goes up a long steep hill that gives a very cool perspective of the place which I failed to capture in a photograph.
Here I was shooting DIRECTLY INTO THE HEART OF THE SUN to capture the castle moat. There was a strange singing group performing nearby that featured everyone trying to sing a different song simultaneously. Bonus points if you clapped out of time.
I dont even know if these walls are original. There were some other parts of the wall that looked very old and just like a pile of rubble. So are they 1992 walls or slightly older re creation walls?
Before entering, I climbed up through the garden for a view of greater Naha. I am glad I did, because as you will see, they do not like you getting a view from anywhere else!
OK, here is the castle and the strange forecourt, and a lot of people. It looks nice from a distance.
Inside you follow the preferred route for about 30 minutes, through long wooden rooms of pictures and lots of NO PHOTO imperial guards. One of the places you can photo is the throne. To me that text says, earth world mountain central.
Instead all you can do is exit, without getting a good view of the compound. Maybe they are hiding the fact the whole thing is just a facade with a shed on the back of it?
I spotted a heap of shops from the viewpoint of the monorail, which affords an excellent view, so I got off and at first was horrified at this large abandoned high end luxury goods duty free store, Hilton hotel and car rental collection zone.
Fortunately over the road was a better larger poorer person shopping centre with numerous food courts and cafes.
The weather was really nice today, I sat outside in this area and had my 2nd coffee. There was also a big cinema complex in this facility, showing the Freddie Mercury film.
This looks like it could be the new Imperial Navy Headquarters, but it is actually the Okinawan prefectural art gallery.
I decided that wherever I was, must be the non tourist centre of town. There were a lot of useful shops but none selling Hawaiian shirts.
Wherever there are government buildings in Japan I have noticed these little bento box selling food trucks lined up at lunch time. Presumably office workers are not allowed to cross the road to the shopping centre at lunch time.
My longer return journey to the hotel went past a different sewer system. Okinawa is a traditional water village. The water appears to have bleach in it.
I went to the supermarket for lunch. The good thing about Japanese supermarkets is they all have little seating areas with a microwave if you want it to eat the food you just purchased. I always microwave my sushi to improve the flavour. Generally these places also have free water (bleached), and a bathroom. Very convenient.
What is going on here? We have pole dancing whores combined with children with cat whiskers painted on their faces?
Eating a sweet potato tart in Naha
It is my last night in / on Okinawa / Naha. I like slashes. I decided I had better eat some of the Okinawan delicacies. I already had a blue seal ice cream at 10am yesterday, the one thing remaining then, a purple sweet potato tart / tartlet. And I liked it a lot. As you will see it was delicious and purple.
After a fairly lazy day I set off a bit earlier than other nights and took a tour around the perimeter of the local Japanese Defence Force base. I identified at least 3 weaknesses in their security, they are lucky I was hungry and had no time to launch an assault.
Before I am allowed to eat though, I have to make sure I have 30,000 steps. So I marched up a hill alongside the awesome monorail passing various stadiums until I reached another shopping centre and its many attractions within.
It was then time to march back down the hill and have the dinner I had decided on last night. I made a plan, I stick to it. Even though I saw a better option on my journey.
Tomorrow I fly back to Fukuoka. I have been there before but not for a few years. I remember the last time I was there they were gripped in star wars fever! Will they have moved onto the next big thing? Will I find mountains? Do they have their own special tart? Only time will tell.
And here is a Japanese coast guard ship that patrols the East China Sea, they are not allowed to have an actual navy still I dont think. Actually I just checked, the coast guard is different, and their main task is to repel North Korean fishermen.
Over the road from the military base is this theater shaped like a samurai helmet. I believe every Japanese city has one the same. Inside they mainly do karate demonstrations.
The local baseball stadium appears to be under construction. I was surprised that its all open at the back like this. I threw a few pitches.
This photo is for my mother. I fell Okinawa has a higher penetration of mister donut than any other Japanese city. It is having a lasting effect.
I went here and bought an entire new wardrobe! In all seriousness, theres a lot of huge people here. Island life combined with mister donut.
Instead, I went and had my vegetarian curry thing, for only 650 yen! I was very satisfied because it was cheap. This was in the basement of a department store where I could sit at the counter and glare at everybody as they went past.
After my cheap dinner, I treated myself to the Okinawan specialty, purple sweet potato tartlet. It was tiny. Now I want ten more. Maybe for breakfast tomorrow before I go to the airport?
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2018-11-08 said:
@MoShengRen - welcome back! And of course. I should have known that. Thanks.
MoShengRen on 2018-11-08 said:
You need to read the sign on top of the throne from right-to-left.
mother on 2018-11-07 said:
you can read katakana now? Yum mister donut or mizdo is that like abbreviating to KFC?
mother on 2018-11-07 said:
Im not the only one who reads your blog, just the only one who comments. Like the art gallery facade as much as the castle.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2018-11-05 said:
More shops please and more cats. You can never have two many of both.
jenny on 2018-11-05 said:
Glad you found a mountain. Any snakes in Okinawa?