Tsukiji and Toyosu fish markets comparison
Today I visited the old and the new fish markets and almost got murdered by a sushi chef.
A few days ago the famous Tsukiji fish market moved a few miles away to a fake island called Toyosu. The move has been delayed many times but finally happened, they should have delayed it further.
At its peak over 40,000 people a day visited Tsukiji, at its peak no more than 400 people a day should bother with the new market at Toyosu.
I never visited the old market when it was officially still open, but now even though its shut its a bustling fun place with things to see, eat, buy, photograph if you wish to get stabbed.
The new market has a couple of sad stores, and a hallway of double walled glass to press your face against and not see anything interesting through. It is really hugely hugely disappointing.
It is so disappointing that I read this morning that there are now rumors the market will move back to Tsukiji in 2025 and the new market will just be truck parking. Anyway, onto how I almost got stabbed.
Warning, swearing ahead!
Literally thousands of people go to the fish market and take photos of the strange sea creatures and stores, and most people sit down and have a meal of fresh sashimi. So I was taking a few snaps, and walked past a little sushi stand that was very warmly lit, and went to take a photo.
The sushi chef guy SCREAMED at the top of his lungs, despite having a bar full of customers, 'NO PHOTO NO PHOTO! If you take photo I KILL YOU!'
I was taken aback and said, 'you will kill me?'
His response, 'YOU AMERICAN PIG, GET LOST, OR I STAB YOU WITH MY KNIFE!!!!'
He really did have a big knife he was waving now but he was still behind his bar, his customers all looked shocked, some of them were taking photos of their sushi with their phones.
I decided to point out the un obvious, 'I am not American, I am Australian'.
His response, was very colorful, I congratulate him on his English, 'EVEN WORSE, AUSTRALIAN IS THE WORSE MOTHERFUCKER ON PLANET....YOU WANT STAB! I STAB YOU!'
The monorail ends here abruptly. This is a rather large man made island, theres another 2 smaller ones between here and the mainland.
Another very bright very sunny day. The sun seems very burning. I should have applied sunscreen. Everything on this island is large and spacious.
OK, this is the main part of the fish market, the intermediary wholesale market, except its 2 levels below me and you cant even see it. Instead you get rushed up an escalator into this gift shop area. Theres maybe 20 shops, some selling t-shirts.
There is a much smaller wholesale market, where there are a few restaurants, maybe 10. But you still cant go into the actual market.
Instead you can go to a museum explaining why the new market is better, the most interesting thing is this mascot, which is apparently based on an electric car crossed with a cat. The old market had blue electric cars moving fish around.
You have to wear this visitor pass to identify you as someone not allowed to go into the market. This is Japanese thinking at its finest. The regular buyers and sellers carry no ID at all, and are allowed to go down to the selling floor, visitors wear this pass to keep them out. I see no reason why you could not just take this pass off and put it in your pocket and pretend to be a buyer.
What does the pass get you into? A view out of this double glazed smudged with snot window. And thats all. Theres not many windows. Luckily there is no one else visiting so I got a window to myself.
Much more interesting than the market is the roof garden. I bounded up many flights of stairs when I saw the sign.
The grass still looks dead from the winter, but its a huge area with great views and almost no other people. Even on a day like today with excellent weather.
Thats the rainbow bridge that goes to nearby island Odaiba, I have been on that before a few times. Not today.
There are plenty of cranes on that island. I think whats being built there is something to do with the upcoming olympics.
I retreated to the mainland and started to look for the old market, which is not really closed down at all. Along the way I passed this huge Buddhist school / temple / whatever they call it. LENS FLARE! OMG.
I have noticed on this trip that nearly every street corner has one of these traffic counter guys punching numbers into his little metal counter things. Seriously, hundreds of guys doing this.
Anyway, heres the old fish market at Tsukiji. First up we have this cool cat they shot and stuffed to guard the fake crab meat wrapped in plastic.
The old market is still very busy and full of tourists. Probably Australian, probably upsetting a nearby stabby sushi chef.
I found an elevated position to take a photo of the chaos below. The main chaos is to the right of here.
Unlike the actual fish market, the closed down fish market still has hundreds of shops to buy fish from.
This store needs to read up on how much everyone seems to hate Johnny Depp now. Its like proudly stating that your store was visited by Adolf Hitler.
This unremarkable photo shows how a Japanese construction site likes to soften the inconvenience of closing part of the footpath. With kitten and puppy posters.
And now I will be on google street view. I am famous! If you see a guy making lewd gestures on google street view in Tokyo with his face blurred out, its me!
A boring part of Tokyo that has a really big western hotel
Apart from once transferring to the Shinkansen here years ago, I had never been to Shinagawa. You hear about Shinagawa a lot if you read the internet about what to do in Tokyo because the main white person large sized room hotel is Shinagawa Prince. So lots and lots of people who's main language is English are very with familiar with Shinagawa.
This is immediately apparent when you see the large number of steakhouses, Thai restaurants and Irish pubs, all of them packed.
There is nothing really at all to see at street level, and I walked a full lap of the station, in both directions. Everything is linked by vibrance stifling elevated walkways, so that you never have to descend into the riff-raff, which has eventually killed off everything that doesnt have craft beer on tap.
My top tip is to not bother going to Shinagawa, there are 20 better neighbourhoods to visit.
Pictures tonight are a bit disappointing, just like Shinagawa. Here is the station. It is a massive station and the best eating options are inside the station inside the gate area.
There are a massive number of people coming from somewhere at the end of the working day. There are a lot of tall buildings surrounding the station but its mostly businesses. I think many western businesses have their Japan headquarters here.
There is a small river / open drain nearby where I could take a long exposure for some smooth water reflections.
I dont know what this building is but I was hunting for a few more photos so here it is, bonus shot of slightly unusual building.
The main street through Shinagawa, Shinagawa Prince hotel is just to the right. Actually its about 10 towers of hotel, with an imax, golf driving range and waterworld park thing.
I wanted dinner from here, there were 2 places I had selected something to eat from, but there were no seats.
Which inevitably meant I would have ramen, but I did choose vegetarian. However I did not get the vegetarian option I asked for, the one I pointed at was mainly mushrooms, what I got has zero mushrooms. It does have carrot though, good for night vision.
Hiking Mount Seihachiyama to view Mount Fuji from Sasago station
I thought I had planned a fairly short hike today, maybe 4.5 hours at a leisurely pace.
Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately since I like hiking, I missed a turn and added a couple of hours onto it, and ended up coming down a path badly impacted by landslides and sliding great distances in the dirt. Fun times.
The start and end of the hike was at the very tiny very disappointing not-even-a-shop station of Sasago on the Chuo line. This station is a long way along the Chuo line, nearly at the city of Kofu which I had a good view of today, along with Mount Fuji of course.
My extended hike meant that I was now late for Halloween at Shibuya, more on that later, but it also meant that I could not post this update until late in the evening, so the text is short, maybe the photos will remind me of things to talk about, or maybe they are all just of Mount Fuji.
There are so many nice stations along the Chuo line, Sasago is the worst. There is no shop but there are a lot of abandoned cars with trees growing through them.
I could not really tell which mountain was the one I would be climbing, actually I would be climbing 3, so until I knew where I was going I just took photos of wheat / canola or whatever this stuff is.
Here is a nice house with some nice topiary and a nice backdrop. Those mountains are the other side of the road, not the ones I was going to. Still its quite nice.
I stopped off at this small factory to perform a waste audit, and advised them on how to better separate their plastics to increase their value and lower their environmental greenhouse climate change carbon ecological footprint.
The road went through this red lit tunnel to get the blood pumping. I quickly developed some film under the red lights.
My journey took me past a power station, possibly hydroelectric. The actual trail starts just past here.
The start of the trail had a detour, and the detour was overgrown and muddy and very hard going. Eventually I re joined the proper trail and there was some leaf color to appreciate. This trail was very well signposted, especially the detours.
There were a couple of fences you had to untie to get through, I believe this is to keep deer out of certain areas.
More canola. I quickly made some oil for later. You never know when you might need some oil on the mountains.
Getting to the top of the first peak was quite quick, and easy to find. Mount Seihachiyama. I think Yama kind of means mountain anyway, maybe, I dont know. Anyway, this is the mountain thats actually on the map, even though the next one is higher.
Now we start our photos of Fuji. The cool tree makes a great view even better. I think this tree is probably what puts this peak on the map.
You cant really see it, but that is the city of Kofu. It looks very large, possibly a good base for hiking on another trip.
My awesome stance, the tree, and Fuji. OK, no more tree, but there will be more Fuji. If you like Fuji you will enjoy todays update.
Getting between the peaks was still an easy enough to follow trail, although there were a few rock scrambles. Fantastic view!
Mount Hongjagamaru. These are the only other people I saw all day, including at the station! 3 hours hiking either side of running into this group I saw absolutely no one.
After the second peak, it started to become harder and harder to follow the trail. I dont think it was used much, and it now seems as though this area is past peak leaf time, as there were lots of leaves littering the path.
Around this point, the path was just gone, I was down to following the ribbons. I had already missed my turn by this point, but had gone too far to double back, plus I was never sure where I was or if I had missed my turn, I only found that out later, I just followed the ribbons hoping that all ribbons lead to somewhere.
Photographing steep doesnt really work, at the end it got so steep I had to properly put my camera bag in my backpack and slide down, no chance for photos.
Every time I thought I was about to get to the bottom, no, there was still further to go. Great weather all day as you can see!
I was very relieved and elated to get back to the station and start my 2 hour return journey to Tokyo.
Apparently, Halloween in Shibuya is one of the most popular Halloween celebrations in the world
OK, I thought earlier when I slid down a cliff on what may or may not have been a hiking trail many miles from any other person in the middle of nowhere in the bear infested woods was dangerous, but it has nothing on the famous Shibuya crossing at Halloween.
This was the worst crush I had ever been in, genuinely dangerous, groups of people were falling over on top of each other, there were surges that I could not resist, I just had to push the people in front of me.
There were lots of police yelling and blowing whistles, but this had no read effect on the massive crowd. The entire crossing was shutdown with crowd control, and a safety zone in the middle to pull people out of the crowd. A couple of police helicopters overhead were adding to confusion.
As for Halloween in Japan, in previous years I missed it or was disappointed, this year I found it, but the costumes were not as great as expected. I saw a few brave guys wearing banana slings but other than that the costume of choice was a school uniform, with blood, a sexy nurse outfit, with blood, a wedding dress, with blood, or very weirdly, whatever the yellow thing from despicable me is called.
There was probably a lot more to see, and I suspect it gets weirder the later you are there, but I was too tired at this point and had to get back to my hotel to type this nonsense.
The only issue with that, I had no chance of getting back into Shibuya station, and I also could not get back to main road to Harajuku, the crowd seemed to be all heading away from that point. Instead I had to walk a longer looping walk back through Yoyogi park to Harajuku, a fun time when you have already done 45,000 steps in a day.
Now I will try to photograph the crush of people, I should have gone for a higher shutter speed and let the iso go up, most of the photos are no higher than iso800.
A wolf with a real looking machine gun, it was an actual person but he would not move for a minute then move suddenly and frighten people.
This is taken as I was halfway across, getting crushed, the police have set up a hole in the middle and would occasionally drag people out of the crush.
I ended up in the love hotel and massage parlor streets trying to get to Harajuku. I dont really know whats going on behind the glass but lots of guys are watching and cheering.
My dinner choices were limited due to everything being full, so I chose curry from a place called J.S. Curry, where I ordered the J.S. Curry without knowing what it was. It was good, mystery meat, some vegetables, nuts and an egg!
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MoShengRen on 2018-11-01 said:
Yes yama means mountain. So you just climbed Mount Seihachi Mountain.
Hiking along the Jogasaki coast from Futo station
Today I took 5 trains to get to the coastal walk south of Atami on the Izu peninsula. This took forever, despite all my trains more or less lining up perfectly. I cant even remember the names of all the places I changed trains, many of the changes were actually on the same line as trains changed from express to local and back again, and then changed from Japan Rail to another company that takes over the line. The whole journey was covered by my excellent 3 day Tokyo Wide rail pass that covers not only Tokyo but most of the surrounding prefectures also. I used it yesterday, I will use it again tomorrow, because I must get as much value as possible!
On the way back I only had to take 2 trains, because form Atami to Tokyo there was a special naval themed ocean view train. Again, my pass covered that train, I proudly waved it at the ticket booth at Atami and got a 'free' ticket on the expensive train.
Enough about the damn trains, how was the peninsula?
The actual place I went to is called the Jogasaki coast, it has lots and lots of rocks and I would imagine its awesome to take photos of with sun and blue sky, but unexpectedly it was very cloudy the whole time I was there.
Of course as soon as I walked up from the coast as I finished the trail, the sun started shining again, and on the return train journey it was time for all the Japanese people to pull the blinds down on the special ocean view train to block out the terrifying sun.
In total if you do the whole journey from Futo to Izu-Kogen the journey is about 15km. There is a point as you will see where theres a bridge for photos. Most people only go to the bridge. If you go, dont do this, it gets better beyond that point, dont be lazy, you can do it!
Yesterday a waving lucky cat was at the start of my hike. Today this curled up cat, possibly dead, is completely ignoring me and will not wave.
Here we have a static display of a boat that shoots steam out of it. I could not work out what was going on. Is it volcanic steam? Why is it coming out of a boat? Volcano powered boats?
These boats have failed to understand that they are supposed to be in the water to operate correctly. Out of the water they are as useless as a turtle on its back.
There were lots and lots of divers at many points along the coast. I dont know what there is to sea in the ocean near here, mercury, nuclear power plant fuel rods, that kind of thing.
OMG there will be lots of photos of rocks and clouds. I deleted lots of them, but should have deleted more.
The bottom half of the screen here is rocks, the top half is cloud. Now that you are familiar with the rock and cloud separation and how it works, read on.
These sort of photos would be great if there was sunshine, instead we have silver skies and dark trees.
This area is a bit like the great ocean road in Australia. There were lots of similar rocks sticking up out of the ocean, ruining someones ship whenever theres a storm.
Here is the bridge and the lighthouse. This is where most people came to do the coast walk. Except they came to take 100 photos for instagram 50 metres from the car park and then leave.
You can climb the lighthouse and the view from the top is good, but you cant open the windows, and they are all smudged where people pressed their face against them to exchange fluids.
About half way along you get to a spot where the path ends prematurely and you have to walk around the car park of the bizarre concept that is the New York lamp museum.
Like everywhere, theres a temple. This one looks old but I suspect its just weathered. I dont think anything this close to the ocean in Japan can be that old due to Tsunami. There were tsunami warning signs everywhere.
The whole coastline is actually pretty nice, there is a lot of development but since the mountains basically meet the see its dramatic cliffside construction, threatening to fall into the sea whenever the next earthquake comes.
OK, this is the only guy I saw for a couple of hours, which was surprising. More surprising, he is playing a trumpet, very badly. He is also filming himself playing the trumpet. He somehow was slowly going further and further out of key and getting slower. I think on purpose. He was filming a movie called sad trumpet by the sea.
There is a second suspension bridge! Someone tell everyone to get down here and take more photos, build them a car park!
This fishing village marks the end of the journey. I dont think a lot of fishing happens here anymore, there seems to be more diving going on.
Back at Atami to change trains, and I found I had 20 minutes to spare until the limited express departed, which makes the journey back to Tokyo an hour quicker than normal trains. Just enough time to run a lap of Atami and take photos in the glorious sunshine! Really, I had to run to get to the beach and back. Heres the shopping street, I ran through it.
The beach, the sun, the holiday resort buildings. Apprently Atami was the place to go in the 1970s but has fallen on hard times. In my run through the city it still looked ok to me.
Atami even has a castle but I think its controversial. There was never a castle here historically, they built it in the 1980's and its an exact copy of another fake castle somewhere else.
I had just enough time before boarding my train to buy some banana water. BANANA WATER, it is water that tastes like bananas!
A very well connected station in the North of Tokyo
I spun the globe this evening and ended up on Kitasenju. Actually I traced Japan Rail lines my free train pass works with north Of Ueno where I am staying until I found an apricot colored splotch on google maps that identifies shops. The biggest one north of Ueno was Kitasenju, so thats where I went.
Heading out of Tokyo at peak hour means its time for the good old fashioned train crush. I became intimate with many Japanese businessmen. Somehow they can manage to read a book or play games with questionable underage anime girl content on their phones in the mad crush. All I can do is try to look away as each one of them sneezes, coughs, or gurgles on a gallon of snot. The snot issue amongst the Japanese is very real! It has been taking all my efforts to not mention it constantly!
As for Kitasenju, its a very interesting, very bright, very busy area with all the things you would expect of a Tokyo shopping area.
It is probably a little bit lower rent than many of the others, but I guess in some ways that makes it a bit more interesting. There are still department stores and food courts as you shall see, but go a few streets away and it became almost traditional stores.
I didnt stay long, I need to get up early tomorrow to go hang off a cliff face somewhere deep in Gunma province, getting maximum value from my train pass on day 3 of 3. More about those amazing savings tomorrow!
Here is the main street of Kitasenju. It is long and has even longer shopping streets running off of it.
There are plenty of colorful alleyways to wander down and wonder whats going on inside the dimly lit stores. Wander and wonder. Thats what I do.
This food court is cool. They have worked out food courts are for sad lonely people, like me, and set up semi private one person booths.
My $5 dinner consisted of Soba in broth with salad on top, accompanied by deep fried shredded vegetables and deep fried sweet potato. It wasnt bad!
The station here is really quite large, it seems to be the terminal station for the Tsukuba express. I dont think I have ever been on that, its not compatible with my train pass so I wont be going on it at least until my pass expires tomorrow night!
I went back over to the main side of the station and hunted some more neon from the pedestrian overpasses.
And there was just enough time left to snap a photo of the big department stores, I had dinner in the basement. I usually do.
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adriana on 2018-11-01 said:
Atami looks like a nice place for an overnight stay in one of the resort hotels lining the coast. Your view photos are fine without the sun - plenty of colour. Kitasenju definitely needs to go on my to go to list.
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jenny on 2018-10-30 said:
I agree about Shinagawa. We stayed at Shinagawa Prince once at Chinese New Year - no white people, just queue jumping Chinese, hot rooms with no opening windows. There was a nice old fashioned coffee shop down the road though for breakfast.
Mother on 2018-10-30 said:
That was not there before