Hiking Mount Toyama in Nikko
I paid for my train pass, so I am going to extract as much value as possible from my train pass.
It costs $100 for 3 days, yesterday I extracted $88 value.
Today I decided the expensive option was to go to Nikko, for a rest day, which would cost $50 if not for the pass, I am already easily ahead. That makes me feel very justified in my purchase.
I have been to Nikko before, everyone has, but last time I was really sick, having got sick the day before starting my Japan trip, then nearly dying on the plane. So my memory of Nikko is fuzzy.
What I can remember is that I thought it was far from the station to the bridge / temples. It is not. This goes to show that the last time I went I really was sick at the time.
Anyway, my rest day turned into a small mountain, and then it was raining again, although its due to stop any time now, so thats ok, I hope.
Working backwards, its time for observations from the train.
The first part of the journey is the bullet train from Ueno to Utsunomiya.
I remember Utsunomiya as the place where a senior citizen set himself on fire at the local government office to protest land taxes, he died, but I digress.
On this bullet train there were lots of salary men, working on laptops, and many of them, the majority, exhibited the same strange behaviour.
If you picture the keyboard area of a laptop, there is a touchpad in the middle, most people use that, I am using it now in fact, I dont travel with a mouse.
Anyway, salary men all like sticky notes glued to the to the smooth area just to the left of the touchpad, and they write stuff down on there constantly, whilst sitting at and using a computer. I know its hard to type in Japanese but what are they needing to write down?
Next, they dont use the touchpad. Ever. They all have corded mice, plugged in, and resting on the smooth area just to the right of the touch pad.
This adds up to one of the most cluttered unergonomic things I have ever seen.
My next observation comes on the train between Utsunomiya and Nikko, another 45 minute ride (getting to Nikko takes ages). This train is full of mainly German tourists, and I noticed 3 things -
1. Many of them still carry around an actual video camera. Not just using their photo camera to take videos, but a dedicated video camera. Are they even still being manufactured?
2. They LOVE the paper printed German tourist guide to Japan. Different groups of Germans were following along in the same guide and all got up to look at the same thing at the same time as we went past, repeatedly. Quite amusing.
3. One of the groups of Germans had left their wet clothes in the washing machine, and decided to wear them anyway. The smell of mouldy clothes was horrific! I dont know how they could stand it.
Now for some pictures of Nikko everyone takes, and some no one who speaks English has ever taken before.
Here is a very grey Utsunomiya station area, shot through a closed window.
On the train between here and Nikko the sun came out, which I was not expecting. That did not last.
I was quite thrilled with this photo, the bullet train splits in half soon after this stop, half goes to Yamadera, half to Sendai. I managed to snap it as another one was speeding past.
Also you can clearly see how one of those trains has its nose retracted back into its own nose. I was fascinated.
Arriving at Nikko and I got to admire the huge mountain vista. I remembered admiring it last time with better weather and a camera with zoom capabilities also.
The photo EVERYONE takes. The main temples in the hills are still closed for rennovations, for the next 20 years and the last 10 years it seems. They have constructed a shed over it and painted a temple on the outside of the shed. Seriously.
The path then descended into the back of a resort, closed obviously, as you can see their pool is bright green. The signs pointing to the exit all lead down stairs to locked doors, I was trapped!
That is not a lawn! Its a pond. If you fall in you will die. There is no fence. I had to carefully step around it, go through a workshop shed, and climb down some landslide barriers into a car park to find a way out!
It is very weird to me that a sign posted trail lead me to here.
A mountain trail! Mount Toyama. So much for my rest day, lets run up a hill.
This one had lots of concrete gates, was very steep, but only took 45 minutes. I was the first person up here for the day judging by the spiderwebs.
And there is Nikko as seen from the top. With fog over the hills in the background. It was getting dark and starting to drizzle.
The hills across the valley. All the WORLD HERITAGE SITE!!! shrines are in amongst those pines in the valley.
Possibly the last STANCE of this trip. A good one cause I am in my Chinese commando pants and favourite ten year old long sleeve t-shirt.
There are bigger mountains off in the distance as well, behind a lake. Climbing these is possible but not on a day trip. It takes too long to get to Nikko, then the bus to the mountains is another hour at least.
You would have to stay in Nikko to do it. I suspect Nikko is really really boring at night!
Once I got back to the station area I found out I had to wait 50 minutes for the train. No problem, I found a supermarket with a public seating area inside, with a microwave, free tea, toilets.
Basically you buy your stuff from the supermarket, heat it up if required, sit and eat it. $4 lunch, no problem, thanks for your hospitality.
Don Quijote in Asakusa
First of all, the same girl is still at the lonely part of Ueno station trying to convince foreigners she needs money to get back to Kyoto because her parents are worried about her.
She saw me coming, probably with a huge grin on my face, and ran away.
Tonight I walked in the other direction to the other night and took in Asakusa and the Skytree. I still havent been up the Skytree, because it costs money, where as the Tokyo metropolitan building and the Gifu government building are free.
Anyway, both areas visited tonight provide opportunities to set your camera on something, set a long exposure time, shut the aperture, set the timer, and stand like an idiot whilst people wonder what you are doing. So thats what I did.
Also, it stopped raining at the exact time the revised forecast said it would, perfect timing for me.
Oh and also also, I had delicious Taiwanese beef noodle soup in Japan. Taiwan beef noodle > Japanese ramen. I knew this already, tonight it was reconfirmed.
On my way to Asakusa I passed a street full of shops making what I presume are dislay cabinets for your dead relatives ashes. Very interesting. They are big believers in setting up competing stores right alongside each other in all Asian countries.
Then I went down a shut street of local shops which at night become garage doors. I am waiting to see the garage door shop shut behind a garage door.
Just one lonely taxi spoiling my view.
The covered streets around Asakusa were a mix of open and closed. Theres lots of nice places to eat around here, but I had already chosen the best.
Now for a trio of long exposures, firstly just the skytree. Getting the camera steady in portrait orientation took a lot of effort and holding my face right and not breathing.
The actual skytree is of course atop a sizeable shopping mall, and food court. I had never been here at night, food court looks ok.
Hiking from Musashi-Itsukaichi to Mitake over multiple peaks
Its my last full day in Japan, so I decided to hike from one train line to another.
My journey went west, with the hiking starting at Musashi-Itsukaichi, last station on the aptly named Itsukaichi line, heading up along a loooong ridge over Asoyama, Hinodesan and arriving at the upper cable car station of Mitakesan, before ignoring the cable car and running down the service road to the station on the Ome line at Mitake.
The scenery was fantastic, so I took a lot of photos, especially the scenery at Mitake at the end which had nothing much to do with the hike.
Getting back from Mitake took over 2 hours, which I was not expecting. When I sat down, the guy next to me decided to clean his ears, with a hook thing, and a tissue to wipe large amounts of wax into. This was very concerning.
More concerning was when the train started to empty out a bit, some people were still standing, every other seat was full including the ones reserved for old people, yet I had 5 empty seats next to me! The carriage rearranged themselves to not sit near me. Racism at its finest.
So thats it, final hike over, feet still in perfect condition, all hail my shoes. I think I managed to fit in more good hikes than any previous trip despite missing 1 due to my mild cold. This can only be achieved in Japan due to the combination of mountains and trains.
Now onto the pics, whilst I think about what to have for my last dinner on this trip.
I think I type whilst too often when I should type while.... I also use '.....' way to often, using it at all is too often.
After a relatively fast train ride compared to the extended ride home, I arrived at Musashi-Itsukaichi station. A nice, quite large town. I stocked up on calorie mate and pocari sweat and got going. I had read this hike would take 7 hours.....
It didnt, I covered the nearly 25km in just over 5 hours, but that involved lots of running.
The first part of the hike took me up a well manicured path to a temple. It was more like a large informal garden. This actually made it a bit annoying, as there were lots of paths, I decided just to keep heading up.
I may be old, but I am not yet old enough to go birding. Theres lots of birds to see though.
I noticed later on there were solar sensors mounted in some trees with cameras and infra red lights to film things at night. Bears or birds?
The temple itself was a bit underwhelming for such a path and garden. Although there were strangely no other people. The weather was very good if a little grey, but the sun was making an occasional appearance.
It was now ridge time, with big trees, no view for hours. This was a rare glimpse of a view, nice wires.
The ridge trail was up hill the whole way, but pleasently so, I ran most of it. There was one group of other people, I later worked out they had caught the cable car up and were hiking downhill all day.
Lazy, I do not respect you.
There was quite a lot of logging in this area, and I could hear chainsaws. Logged areas provided an opportunity for a view. Thats Tokyo in the distance.
Great light for this photo, with the logged trees replanted for future logging. They need a lot of logs in Japan to keep making steps on hiking trails.
And after a few hours, I was at the summit of Hinodesan, and there were suddenly other people, I would soon realise why.
Across the valley there is the upper cable car station, the path between Hinodesan and Mitakesan was very well maintained staircases.
Still the brave souls that have made the 20 minute trek across from the cable car have put on all their alpine gear.
After the short skip across the valley to Mitakesan, I found myself in tourist paradise, with streets of little restaurants and chopstick shops. Its quite high up, the road down is an amazing engineering feat as I would discover....
Just look at these wonderfully maintained steps to the top with colorful trees and stone tablets declaring a shinto-fatwa on non pure blooded Japanese.
The shrine / temple on the top was extensive and possibly brand new, like the steps leading up to it.
Hmmm, still more mountains. Actually ALLLLL the mountains around this area have extensive hiking trails, hundreds of them!
Time to head down. I skipped what I thought was a cable car which is actually a fernicular (cable pulled) railway. Japan has painted the track through the forest bright red, cause historic.
This is the bottom of the 7km road down from the top station. It was quite an amazing piece of engineering, uncomfortably steep. Cars going up it would surely overheat.
I thought I was at the bottom, but no, still a lot more steep road. This is a wider road cars drive up to get to the bottom station of the cable railway, and those that went past me did indeed smell like they were burning.
Finally I came out on the main highway, what a vista! I thought this would be the last photo, but no....
Other than the wires, what an amazing view! This was a footbridge across the river. The people down there are fly fishing.
The photos are not doing the scale of this justice, also the lights a bit crap in this one, but thats fine, more to come!
In the middle of the town of Mitake theres another bridge across. I was early for the train so I got to walk over.
Down there is a kayaker battling the current.
And then surely, saving the best photo for last. The amazing river, the mountains, the town on the side of the cliff.
A great day indeed. I will one day come back to Mitake and climb more mountains, at least ten hikes start from here. The town was full of cyclists, rock climbers, kayakers etc.
I was amazed when the train came that the platform at this remote station in the valley with no phone coverage was completely full on a week day.
Eating ramen beneath Tokyo station
Time to head out and have my last dinner in Japan, unless my flight is cancelled.
Leaping forward, Ueno station has been a source of crime and villiany, tonight on my way back the police had 3 male youths, probably in their 20's, hand cuffed.
Nothing too special about that although you might not expect to see it in Japan. However they were all crying, despite being tough guy men, and speed apology bowing repeatedly. I was amused by this greatly. I am easily amused.
My road to my last supper took me through familiar grounds of Ueno to Akihabara to Kanda to Tokyo. Very bright and colorful, quite busy, great weather, lots of food options.
Not much else to report, apparently gay people might be able to get married in Australia soon, and suffer like non gay married people, Australia made the world cup soccer finals and Italy did not, Robert Mugabe is under arrest following a possible coup in Zimbabwe and Saudi Arabia has secretly arrested the president of Lebannon who has been forced to resign and tell everyone via twitter everything is fine.
I briefly considered this for dinner, because it is bright red and warning I will die of death by chilli. But it was too close to my hotel, have to keep walking.
These people are all standing around on a street corner kind of away from any shops. Almost underneath the highway overpass, all looking at their phones. At least 100 people.
So yes, Pokemon go is still popular in Japan.
Kanda is also quite a bright colorful place at night. A few junior wannabe Yakuza with the head sets and black gloves hanging around.
I made it as far as Tokyo station, and descended into its underground shopping streets and kitchen streets. This is their 'illumination'.
The predictable last supper, a bit more ramen, in a smoking bar. I also got the 5 tiny gyoza. I then had to negotiate my way out of a combo meal which involved a beer.
There are currently 6 comments - click to add
David on 2017-11-15 said:
Thanks for reading Harry, Ozstig and any other new readers who are not just my mother or one of her alternative personalities!
Harry on 2017-11-15 said:
I've been enjoying reading through your website for the past few days. Sort of traveling vicariously through you. You take great pictures of many places I want to see myself one day.
mother on 2017-11-15 said:
I am often ostracised on trains as well. It is because they are scared you will speak to them and they won't understand. Have an uneventful flight home.
David on 2017-11-15 said:
I always assumed the train behaviour of locals not wanting to sit near me is because I am travelling as a single male.
I assumed you wouldnt receive the same treatment travelling as a family.
Today was particularly obvious, I posed for and took a selfie of me and the spare seats, but only using my phone camera, hence I havent posted it here.
mother on 2017-11-15 said:
last picture is great. I think the racism is increasing from the news stories I've seen on NHK lately. It seems that with the increasing number of foreign tourists who are unaware or don't follow Japanese rules, the locals are getting pissed off. Understandable, as I find a lot of them annoying too.
ozstig on 2017-11-15 said:
I'm not sure if the racism is getting worse or if I just noticed it more on this trip but we had many experiences where people would hop on a train then hop off again when confronted with the possibility of having to share a carriage with a western family.
Exploring Ueno before heading to the airport
Here is my procedural update from Narita airport.
The airport terminal is small and dated, lacking in anything interesting to do, but thats ok its not long until my flight.
This may not even be the last update, I have hours to waste in Singapore, so who knows, perhaps another boring update from their crappy lounge they provide for Virgin platinum members.
Getting here was easy, the fastest train leaves from Ueno where I was staying.
Before that I walked around the parks at Ueno which I am already familiar with. Fascinating update! Heres a few pics.
First I appreciated a steam train, which for an unknown reason was at the natural science museum. So natural.
My disappointing airport lunch to use up the last of my Yen. I am going to stock up on drinks for the plane because Singapore Airlines dont seem to be able to supply water in anything other than a single gulp sippy cup once every 9 hours.
fine....
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2017-11-14 said:
favourite shot of the night is the under bridge one. you really should go up the sky tree one day. there are a lot of interesting things in there. It's not just about the view.
David on 2017-11-14 said:
probably at least 2 weeks past their best, although the grey skies dont help
jenny on 2017-11-14 said:
I really really like the red trees at Nikko.