Climbing up the slippery hills to get to Gifu castle
Weather update: Misty fog but still really warm.
Health update: Mildly snotty but maybe already getting better?
Today I got to use the plethora of roofs that hover above every street in Gifu.
They took me all the way to the Gifu city garden, which has a surprisingly long challenging series of paths to get to the castle that overlooks the city, if you choose to not use the ropeway.
Of course, I did not use the ropeway. But I was actually expecting a concrete staircase to the top, because this place is really popular, I couldnt be more wrong.
It was surely the most challenging 'climb' of my trip so far. Sure, it was short, but at times I needed my gloves and to think about the way up.
The castle at the top was built in 1950, after being destroyed in world war 2. It is made of concrete. Whilst there are great views from the castle, as you will see below, its really hard to take a photo of a great view including the castle.
It also has a small entry fee and the usual array of swords and samurai outfits inside.
I think this might be the only actual castle I visit on this trip, and its a fake one to boot.
The path down was called the meditation path, supposed to be easier, and it was, but given the moist conditions, I really had to be very careful!
I made it to the bottom unscathed, and dry. What looks like rain is really just fog.
Now I am enjoying a fruit salad that includes tomatoes and very strangely, marshmallows. Not mochi, actual marshmallows. From now on all fruit salad should include marshmallows.
The road through the city to the park where you start your ascent to storm the castle was very nice, even in the grey.
I took a wrong turn and found myself at this temple complex, with some really nice autumn color, well it would have been on a sunny day.
They have decided to try and compete with Kyoto with the red gate tunnel. Weak effort, try a different color, be unique.
I have no idea what this place was, but it was really nice and quite a large compound of many buildings.
Now I am at the city park, and if you squint through the fog, you can see the castle on top of the hill. There is an art gallery here with a Michaelangelo exhibition going on. Quite a few buses of domestic tourists.
Also, like all of Japan at this time of year, the flower show. This one has a mini pagoda and bridge as part of the display.
A bit more flower show, there was heaps and heaps of flower show. If you like flower show you would like this park a lot.
I did however explore the little pond with lit up neon plastic Japanese historical figures. Note the fish in the water.
This was a bonus pagoda. Apparently made from wood from a bridge that collapsed in an earthquake in the 1890's. Although it doesnt say when the pagoda was made, it looks new and they are still finishing the landscaping around it.
It is often very very hard to take a photo without power wires. It annoys me!
I selected my path, apparently a path an exiled brother used to sneak up on the castle and murder his entire family and reclaim the throne. Quite common in Japan to this day.
The so called path was a rock face! I was genuinely surprised, but excited to climb up jagged wet rocks.
A bit more rock face, it went on and on. My hands are a bit sore now as a result. Needless to say, I saw no one else at all attempting the rock face.
As far as I can tell, this is only one of two spots to take a photo of the castle. You will see the other later.
And of course a few suits of samurai armour. Terrible reflecions from the horrendous fluoro lighthing. Buying a few normal lamps would make this place look 100x better.
More fog, and the cities famous river. I know its famous, the station has an information board telling me the city is famous for the river and the castle.
Last view pic. Nice phone tower poking up from the trees. I think the foliage would have looked spectacular on a clear day.
This is the other castle view, you have to stand in the entry of the ladies toilets. Nice power wires again.....
There is also another museum building included in the price of admission, and a squirrel park. Squirrel park had no squirrels although I did see some on my descent.
Bonus museum building had some more armour.
What the bonus museum really had, was the complete history of the castle, as told in manga. Apparently theres a big budget Japanese movie about this castle and the various mass killings of everyone.
The lower parts were less slippery, but dark and spooky. Todays small walk turned into a technical hike, which was a nice surprise.
The view from the Gifu observation tower
I am confident I have now seen all there is to see in Gifu. Time to move on to Yokohama tomorrow.
To assist in ensuring everyone can see all of Gifu, the government has built the largest building in the city, and made the top floor observation deck free.
I went up there, and I was the only person up there. Strangely they have installed what appears to be frosted glass, which impacts the photo quality as you will see below.
From the observation tower, I saw a mall, so I guess it was time to head to the mall. I shouldnt have bothered. It had nowhere to eat except mcdonalds, and exactly 4 shops! Book-off, Uniqlo, Tsutaya and a supermarket, and enough car parking for 10,000 cars.
The top floors of the former shopping mall were now all English language learning schools and dentists.
Not to worry, I headed back to the station area and found a vegetarian buffet! Not as good as the FANTASTIC Taiwanese ones, but still good.
Paying for it was quite an ordeal, just like in Taiwan you pay by weight, but this place was a self check out machine that weighed it and made you put cash in. Sounds easy enough, but then it was asking me questions about rice, soup, green tea etc and I had to pick various options.
Eventually the cleaning grandma came and helped me, I think it made her day.
Then finally, I decided my dinner was virtually calorie free so celebrated with a green tea and red bean ice cream. Which was way more ice than cream. I have regrets!
The view from the 43rd floor. My building at home has more floors and seems small compared to many around it.
Here in Japan, 43 seems really high. Thats the train station below.
Next up, we head to the crappy mall. There was a highway overpass to take a photo from. Its not really up to the standard of the Tennnoji one from the other day in Osaka.
There was nothing else to see in the mall other than perusing the fantastic selection of second hand goods in book-off. They sell lots of second hand clothes also, its hard to tell many are second hand.
And here is the building I was taking photos from the top of earlier. It was now starting to get foggy again.
I bought my ice cream from a gigantic up market supermarket. This is their curry powder / paste / spice block aisle. I couldnt fit it all in the shot. Do Japanese people eat curry every night?
And the rain started to fall just as I got back to the roofed streets once more. This might be the last ever photo you see of Gifu in your life. Remember it for its many roofs!
From Gifu to Yokohama on the Shinkansen
Physical Health Status: Deteriorating fast
Mental Health Status: I want to put every snotty Japanese person who has made me sick to the sword!
Belt Status: Tighter than it should be - physical exercise makes ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE to how fat you are. NONE.
Foot Status: Still awesome, praise be to the lords of shoe making, Altra.
I am on the decline. I thought I would get better, I didnt, I got worse.
This will be reflected by a lack of photos.
I had many plans of places to go, at this stage, these will be impacted.
If I dont make a rapid improvement I might have to go to the forest.
As I type this an alarm went off in my room for half a second, twice, with a minute or so in between. I did not feel an earthquake though. Maybe North Korea is here.
Update, alarm went for longer with someone talking over it, I went down stairs, and they all bowed and said 'no prob-elem, pleasu ignore...des!' ok.
The reflection of the leaves on the water and the leaves on the water on the roof of the tunnel of the bridge was quite interesting.
On all the previous occasions I went past Fuji on the Shinkanesen, it was raining. Today I could see it, so I took this poor quality photo.
As my camera has no zoom, its a crop, through pollution, from a moving bullet train.
I have seen other tourists have a tantrum and start crying when they realised they wouldnt get their photo of fuji from the train.
And last photo for today, my hotel room. Daiwa Roynet again, exact same config as my last Daiwa Roynet in Gifu with a slightly more modern decor.
I like it, its large.
Eating Mapo Tofu in Yokohama Chinatown
Its not game over yet. I seem to be going through a resurgence. Maybe it will be brief, maybe it will be lasting, time will tell....time will tell.
I have been to Yokohama before, but only during the day. I thought then that the Chinatown was a bit boring. A few things have changed since then because now its awesome.
First, I think in the years since I have been here, the Japanese appreciation of taking money from Chinese tourists has increased massively. So they have a lot more food options now for actual Chinese people, not just Japanese people wanting to eat Ramen in a place decorated with Chinese gates and lanterns.
Second, I think the place comes alive at night.
My hotel is on the corner of the main Chinatown street, so to Chinatown I went.
I selected Mapo Tofu, and it was very much like the style found in Chengdu, a lot of ma as well as la, and I think this combination might be the main cause of my resurgence.
What I need is for a Chinese chef to follow me around with some Sichuan peppers.
Yokohama is also a very big place, the apricot shading on the map is very very large. I saw only a small part of it, and never actually got to central Yokohama on my walk this evening. I did however injure myself looking at the map.
By some calculations, Yokohama is actually the second biggest city in Japan, with 3.7 million residents, but this is very confusing because its joined on to Tokyo and forms part of the greater Tokyo metro area.
Thats enough geography.
With so many world champions of dim sum and cooking you would assume this place would have at least one customer, but they do not.
One of their so called champions is also a woman, which is impossible. All great chefs are men.
I felt like shark fin soup, but it was too expensive. That however is the biggest shark fin I ever saw.
Japan has shark fin soup, ivory, whale meat, live fish eating. Its all good.
There were so many reasturants, I decided to make my choice from one of the places on this alleyway, or else I would never choose.
The first place I went into, I knew what I wanted, saw it on the big sign out the front, house specialty, Taiwan beef noodle.
So I sit down, and out comes the honey chicken menu. I ask for the real chinese menu, in Chinese, and get answered in Japanese. So I left.
Everything on the English menu was also 3x the price.
Next place was dark, old looking, and I saw the chef smoking in the alleyway, so you know hes the real deal. No honey chicken menu here, menu was written in Chinese.
The mapo tofu as I wrote above was fantastic. $7 including soup, rice, dumplings, pickles and dessert which I turned down.
I am amused that the taxis seem to say 'the contribution to society' which is a term I attribute to reformed criminals.
THIS IS THE POLE I WALKED INTO.
I was reading google maps, and suffered a catastrophic groin injury. I tried to laugh and walk it off. I saw at least one guy laughing at me. It was pretty funny.
And just because I didnt take enough photos earlier, here is a random street in Yokohama. Quite shiny and new looking.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2017-11-09 said:
I really dont think taking strong codeine before running up a mountain for 8 hours is a good idea.
In fact thats one of the worst ideas of all time.
Any kind of pain killer before physical activity is only going to cause injury.
mother on 2017-11-09 said:
Remembered the comments box again. Glad you are feeling a bit better tonight. Remember I told you once before about the good cold medicine in Japan and how to ask for it.Yes China Town is big and colourful, but we have only been there in the daytime and it was absolutely packed. Maybe it was Chinese New Year or something when we were there. Notice how clean all the street are in Japan - except of course when they put out the rubbish bags and the crows get into them. At least the rubbish men get out of the trucks and clean everything up. That definitely doesn't happen here.
The modern architecture of Yokohama
Whilst my health is much much better than yesterday, my original plan for today was a 30km round trip up a mountain in a remote location.
I decided I am not quite up to it, yet. Come hell or high typhoon, I will do that tomorrow. That will be Saturday though, so I expect it to be quite busy. Less chance of getting lost or eaten by a bear, harder to find spots for public urination.
So, instead of heading out of Yokohama, I stayed right in it, and walked its length and back, about 30,000 steps on my rest day.
Along the way I saw lots of big modern buildings, wide open avenues with trees, business people, middle aged white men in suits, their wives lounging in fancy bakeries, that sort of thing.
I also noticed when I left this morning that the hotel has plastered apology bow signs in the lift and reception about the false fire alarm yesterday, which was apparently due to an 'unfortunate issue'.
In news events, I can report that Trump visiting China and spending more time with Xi Jinping than he did in Japan wth Shinzo Abe has got everyone here riled up.
Apparently he said a lot of nice things about China, Japan really wanted him to declare war on them and not even go there. The news stations here are literally playing any speech he made in China line by line, pausing it, then having a pannel of 'experts' offer their opinions on what he might have meant.
The assumption that he means anything he says or actually knows what any of his script means is probably where everyone is going wrong.
Yokohama is very yellow. Leaves are plentiful, at least 10 leaves fell on my head today just as I was walking around. This keeps an army of people employed sweeping all day. Some even shake trees to make more leaves fall down quicker.
I also saw quite a lot of people being supervised collecting rubbish with tongs, community service perhaps.
This cruise ship was also a hospital ship in WW2, and is now a museum. I thought I might go on it, but no admission before 11AM, so you wont be getting my $3.
The very modern skyline of Yokohama. Looks a lot like an Australian city. The weather today was still amazingly good, and I wished I was wearing shorts. Its supposed to be warmer tomorrow also.
This is the overseas passenger terminal for cruise ships. Its quite an amazing place. Seems to be made of wood and grass and is enormous, really gave a great view inside the ships berthed either side.
This bridge goes all the way across the bay back to the south east of Tokyo, at some point I believe it turns into a tunnel before becoming a bridge again. If only they let you walk over/under the bay using it, I would do that for sure!
Its so long they have 2 sets of 'roadside services' in case you run out of fuel or urgently need ramen whilst crossing.
UPDATE: I checked google maps, this connects up to that bridge / tunnel, nearer to Kawasaki.
The red house is now a shopping mall, also opens late, so I kept going. Thousands of school kids hanging about pointing at me and hurling insults.
Kind of feels like a cold square in the Soviet Union.
This long avenue of colorful trees leads to the Nissan car company global HQ. I had read you could go in and see every old car they ever made on display. I could not find that, just a modern showroom not worthy of a photo, and a starbucks, and a gran turismo simulator with a busted controller that had the horn button jammed on.
Its only once you get to the Yokohama central station area that it looks more like the rest of Japan. Quite a small area and still filled with very large department stores and underground malls.
This old part of town is a long way from where the Chinatown section and the main people hanging about areas of town are these days.
Guns are a real issue in Japan. Mass shootings are occurring almost daily. Actually I dont know that theres been any gun murders this year.
On my way back to the hotel, I went past the big baseball stadium, and they were in there training. I could see in and take a photo. What appeared to be a junior player was standing guard at the gate, I asked if I could take a photo and he seemed too shy to answer.
Next to the stadium is this little garden. I have actually been here before. I also saw someone on the internet who went and took photos of a snake in a tree in here!
And then at the Lawson, I found 0 calorie Calpis! How a fermented yoghurt drink can have zero calories is no doubt patented Japanese secret technology. It tastes exactly like the calorie laden original to me though.
The boutique shopping street of Motomachi in Yokohama
After 3 or so days of ill health and recovery, I declare myself back to mountain fitness.
Unfortunately, I cant climb a mountain at night, too many hungry bears, so tonight, I went to Motomachi.
I saw other places in lesser cities called Motomachi, so I thought maybe it means something, I still dont know, I think its just a name, when I google it, all the hits are for Yokohama Motomachi, which even gets its own wikipedia article -
'Motomachi is a district of Naka Ward in Yokohama, Japan, located immediately west of Yamate and east of Chinatown. It consists mainly of the Motomachi Shopping Street, a five-block long stretch of boutiques and shops, well known in Japan for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, original fashion, and Western influence.'
I agree with the article. My mother (and only reader) should pay careful attention, assuming you havent been here already. You would like all the little boutiques and bakeries along here.
And now as I type this, we have the sumo technical analysis on tv, complete with graphics and a panel of experts. This features super super high definition slow motion footage whilst all the experts make ooooghhh aaawwwww noises.
The noises are nothing though, I can clearly see one sumo guys asshole, and another guys scrotum, within one minute of viewing. Such an elegant sport.
I had to change channels, next we get the women eating giant mouthfuls of food whilst wearing too much lipstick show. Also featuring high definition slow motion. Thats the entire show! No commentary, no discussion of what they are eating, just cutting to different closeups of stuffing giant amounts of food into well groomed mouth holes.
Time to head back to the main state broadcaster, who is showing the world ice sweeping (curling) championships. I enjoy the frantic commentary.
There are lots and lots of dedicated little shops along here.
This one sells every kind of honey, honey related products, and honey themed accessories. In addition to honey they also sell pictures of bees.
I do not think they can open this store in Australia without changing the name first, although we do still have coon cheese.
The main part of Motomachi is nicely lit up, dont let the swarovski store fool you, its mainly independent stores.
There are lots and lots of shoe shops. Hence the golden shoe. Some of the shoe shops seem to be making the shoes, not just selling them.
RAMEN TIME! And it was amazingly good ramen. A new winner for best of the trip so far. I dont know what the flavour base was, maybe a mixture, including chilli. The huge amount of vegetables, some of them pickled, made it great.
The pork was also crispy on the edges, very very good. Finally, the noodles were hand cut rectangular almost Taiwanese style.
I liked this Ramen so much I took a photo of the outside of the shop to remember if I ever come here again.
As you can see they mainly serve the one thing, every picture on the shop is of that one Ramen dish which I was I ordered, 760 yen including tax, great value!
And to add a series of different colors to the web page, heres a random fish tank. It is inside a banks little night room where they have a row of ATM's.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2017-11-10 said:
Good shops - specially shoe shops. Motomachi just mean down town. It's usually used for the old central parts of the city.
David on 2017-11-10 said:
Its like Tokyo, there are many centres.
I will go back to the big fancy areas tomorrow night and take photos at night, when I was there this morning everything was still shut, so I didnt take photos
mother on 2017-11-10 said:
No shops in your photos? I want to see the centre of Yokohama
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David on 2017-11-08 said:
Garden was ok, the castle is fake at the top of the hill but the view is good.
There are no shops, even the station area is lacking.
There is a loft and a takashimaya and thats it.
Best place is still Kyoto I think, there are so many places to go to from there.
jenny on 2017-11-08 said:
So Gifu is dead at night. Does it have shops and other things I would be interested in - like the garden you went to yesterday? What is the best place so far this trip?
David on 2017-11-08 said:
I increase shadows, cut saturation, otherwise it was just fog and no city below
This is only the case in the view of the fog photos
mother on 2017-11-08 said:
I think you made your own path today. There must be a better one than that. Colours in your photos are fluorescent are you sure you're not cranking them up?