Hiking up and over Mount Rokko in Kobe via the rock garden path
Its Sunday, men are allowed out hiking, theres only one popular hiking spot near Kobe and its awesome, so it was packed. And then it wasnt.
Allow me to explain further.
Kobe is wedged between the sea and a mountain range, the city extends quite a long way out to sea on terrifying reclaimed land.
The highest mountain is Mount Rokko, that would be todays first destination, but once you are up there, you can walk over all the other mountains.
There are 4 or 5 different cable car / ropeway things to go up or down if you are lazy and or stupid, I will use none of those.
Also, very strangely, no temples and no shrines, none at all that I saw!
The main path, is called Rokko rock garden, because you go over some steep rocks, and it was fantastic, but full of other hikers.
And as I suggested above, Sunday is the only day of the week men are allowed to do anything fun, so there were as many men as women, so essentially twice as many people, as all the other days are women only, plus me of course.
This meant, on the way up I had to wait, and wait, for very slow people taking rests every few steps up the single file path, which was annoying.
Before that though, at the trail head, I bought a drink from the vending machine, drank it all at once, and was putting it in the recycling bin round hole, when I decided to make sure it was going in the right side.
Some of these bins have different sides for plastic bottles vs aluminium cans. So I am reading the writing with my empty bottle in my hand, and a guy comes out of the tiny shop and starts screaming at me. I could tell he was swearing and hurling racist insults, cause there were other people around and they were in shocked silence.
I had no idea what he was going on about, so I just stared at him and said nothing and looked mad. Another hiker comes over and tells me in English that mad guy thinks I am stealing the empty bottles!
So heres what I did, shoved the bottle in the bin, then calmly bought a drink for the guy that explained to me what was going on from the vending machine. The store owner guy continued his tirade and wouldnt let me past, so I shoved him hard enough for him to stagger backwards. What now racist asshole? What now? Nothing of course, all bark no bite.
Thats the second time I have had to be physically violent in Japan, a small security guard man tried to restrain me for taking a photo of the Square Enix building many years ago.
Racism is out of control in Japan!
Anyway, since I took so many photos, I better get on with it!
My highway overpass window on Kobe revealed another day of 'blue' sky in Japan. Except its terribly polluted again.
I had hoped last nights sudden wind would blow it away, no such luck.
First I had to get to the trail, its a bit of a walk from Ashiya station, there were lots of other hikers to follow, and the Lawson convenience store next to here was full to the brim, I had to line up for ten minutes to pay for my Pocari Sweat.
This is the real start of the trail. Its very steep and rocky for about 90 minutes up past here. This is also where I had to threaten to kill a Japanese man for accusing me of stealing plastic bottles.
It was slow going, but the view was great, except for the pollution. Often trails have no view due to trees, this one has exposed rocks a lot of the way up.
This is not the top, its not even halfway up. Its the top of the rock garden hiking part. Some people went back down a different way from here. Where would be the fun in that?
Here I am. The slow going to this point due to single file and waiting meant I hadnt even broken a sweat. Others were draped in a towel continually drying their sweat, Japanese people always hike with a towel.
I was wearing shorts, and glad I did, but not one other person was, I was checking. Later in the day I saw some trail runners at the top in shorts.
A short while after the end of the rocky garden, you pass a golf course, right on the side of the mountain. It wont be the last one today either, there are lots of country clubs up here and a tollway road that tunnels through the mountain connecting them all.
I still had to get up there and hike all the way along it. Thankfully the crowds were thinning a bit now.
There are also lots of flood control barrier things all the way up, which create waterfalls and spots to appreciate the view.
Some more color and a waterfall. No bears today, but there are lots of wild boars, I saw one. The locals were yelling at it and trying to video it, it was terrified and charging off through the trees at full speed.
Its starting to look a long way down and a very long way from the city. I checked my GPS to make sure I wasnt wandering off into oblivion.
View, I had to go along the ridge path to those towers on the left, and then some distance beyond them too, before starting to head back down.
The far side of the mountain is more cities. Nishinomiya apparently. Never heard of it. A guy taking the same photo pointed and said that to me, I checked the map on my phone, he was absolutely right!
The path along the ridge was great, up and down a few times but also flat sections. It kind of follows a road and you have to cross the road a few times, which is full of motorbikes and tour buses.
And now I am at one of the many cable car top stations, where you can have lunch, but I didnt, nowhere to sit, expensive, no time, got to keep moving!
As you can see the top of this peak is very developed, lots of little shops selling expensive crap to tourists. There are also lots of hotels built on cliffs up here.
This is actually a different golf course to the one earlier. They have included covered hiking trails through it for people like me, but have tried to stop people seeing into the course. I found this spot to peer in though.
Apparently Donald Trump is in Japan playing golf today. Maybe he is here.
The crowds thinned completely. I think most hikers took one of the cable cars down. I selected a path down, and had it completely to myself, but it appeared to be a really long way back to civilization.
The long path down was great, and featured every kind of scenery, dark wooded parts, lots of streams to cross, waterfalls, colored leaves etc.
Heres a stream I had to cross, I never saw another person for 3 hours on the way down! Hence the 'first everybody, then nobody' title of todays post.
Then I got to this. It is much bigger than it first appears to be. I had to have 3 different attempts to get over before I found a way where I didnt plummet to my death.
Then I came to a surprise tunnel. It goes under the toll road. My theory is they really dont want pedestrians or cyclists to find a way onto that road, there is a long road tunnel under the mountain just past this point.
It was pretty great going in this tunnel in the middle of nowhere, and absolutely freezing inside.
And then I came out at a random spot on the side of the road, and a few hundred metres later had this great view! However its still 5km to a train station, all downhill, an easy jog.
A bit more of the great view from here. Lots of really really nice houses up here. Lots of stairways connecting streets that require switch backs due to how steep it was.
Reminded me a lot of the mid-levels area of Hong Kong. Only a lot quieter. No convenience store to be found! I really wanted a banana.
And then, after 30km and 7 hours of hiking and running where I could, back at the station!
Another great day of hiking in Japan.
Eating curry on Ikuta road in Sannomiya|
After getting distracted last night and seeing only Kobe port, tonight I boarded a train and headed straight for Sannomiya, the main downtown area.
Surprisingly, no over zealous security guards or store owners tried to stop me.
It was very bright and busy there, and bigger than I remember from my previous 2 daytime visits. I think I had the layout all confused and previously arrived via Shin-Kobe and went around the edge of Sannomiya - this all means nothing to people who havent been to Kobe before.
There was a bunch of pop starlets putting on their show, and a whole heap of guards ensuring no photos were taken, I thought I was going to ignore that until I saw them take a phone off a guy forcibly!
Anyway, the girls miming were pretty useless, from what I could tell they were called Marleez, and they were all dressed in what looked like harry potter capes.
The real entertainment was the men watching, and it was almost all men, they had a part to play with cheering in complex rhythms during the chourus, like they had all practiced it at home before coming to the live performance.
I still think Kobe is great, very underrated, I needed more time here, common theme this trip! Tomorrow I go to Gifu, I have never even visited before and I have no idea whats there.
If its really boring, I can just go to Nagoya, which is only 30km away.
And after going on a rant about the racist guy earlier, here is what I presume is the nazi party of Japan bus.
Its hand painted black, with the rising sun flags trailing at the back, the guys in it wearing arm bands and headbands.
When they saw me taking their photo, the guy delivering the manifesto over the loudspeaker system got particulalry animated.
I like to think he was ranting about me. The speakers on this bus were seriously loud, I could hear it all night from blocks away.
And heres the reason for tonights post title.
5.5 years ago I went to Pyramid curry here for lunch, when I visited Kobe for the day.
Its an independent store, not part of a chain, and the same guy was still running it, I remember him, he sings as he prepares the meal, and has a pony tail.
I explained to him that I visited many years ago, he didnt believe me, said I was making it up to get discount!
I said I didnt want a discount, and googled 'lostorwhat kobe pyramid' and there it was, my last visit. I showed him on my phone, and he burst out laughing.
Great curry though. Very spicy, and the rice is shaped like a pyramid, how could it possibly be bad? Its the best Japanese curry I ever had, and I have now had it twice.
Curry photos really are terribly pointless, its brown goo on rice, but I dont care, I put them here anyway.
The central Kobe one of these is 2 levels high and very spacious. Looks deserted up this end but theres a lot of people in the distance.
Last pic for this evening, an enormous coffee shop. Maybe I will go there in the morning before heading back to Shin-Osaka to get the train to Gifu.
Riding the Shinkansen from Kobe to Gifu
Now I am in Gifu, which means I have stopped heading West and am now heading back East towards Tokyo. A sad day indeed.
I have never been here before, as mentioned earlier, it is a satellite city to Nagoya. It seems very clean and organised, thats all I know so far, my hotel is very close to the station.
Before coming here, I had a bit more time to wander around Kobe this morning, and found Motomachi, a very very long shopping street that basically connected where I was staying with Sannomiya, it started off old and run down but got pretty modern 2km later at the end.
To get from Kobe to Gifu took 4 trains, Suburban Kobe train, Sannomiya to Shin-Osaka, Shin Osaka to Nagoya Shinkansen, Nagoya to Gifu.
I didnt really make any plans as to how to make that happen, you dont really need to in Japan, theres always 20 options to get anywhere.
The train wasnt as bad as the others, with just one person keeping time with their coughs, but I think they were lung cancer rather than swine flu coughs, also I think he had tourrettes or some sort of OCD.
Cough cough 1, 2, 3, 4, cough cough 1, 2, 3, 4. I could keep time to this for the hour or so on the Shinkansen.
My room here in Gifu is a Daiwa Roynet, I like this chain, you check in at a machine, which prints you a personalised RFID room key with your name and room number on it, and you pay at the machine with your credit card. No need to ever talk to anyone in Japan. Its very hard to talk because of the face mask situation, no one can hear you.
My early morning wander around Kobe first came to this dilapidated semi abandoned area. I was looking for Motomachi and thought this was it, it was not.
Not sure what this old building was, lots of security guards in cars surrounding it. Maybe Trump is staying there.
This is the ubiquitous roadworks sign. I like that they have a little picture of a man doing the apology bow.
Motomachi. Miles long, snakes around a bit, starts off old, gets newer, full of cyclists trying to kill me at this time despite the no bikes signs up everywhere. Rebels.
Almost forgot, I only found the Kobe Chinatown this morning. Quite large, seemed legit. Lots of dumplings and congee for sale for breakfast.
I am staying in Yokohama after Gifu, which has an even larger Chinatown. I will speak Chinese there and get strange looks.
Heres a bit more Chinatown, there were many such gates. You know you are in Chinatown when stores are getting fresh bean shoots delivered daily.
The last bit of my walk, between the tracks, miles and miles of closed garage doors. I dont know how many of them still have shops behind them or if they are closed permanently these days.
And now, Gifu station area. Complete with gold samurai statue, holding a gun. He's doing it wrong.
Sky here is less polluted, good news!
The covered shopping streets of Gifu
Heres what I have learnt about Gifu -
They are deathly afraid of rain. To ensure they never ever have to get wet, they put a roof over everything.
Every street has a little roof over it, or a full roof over it.
The entire station forecourt has a roof over it, and then a roof over the roof.
The street roof extends into areas no one ever goes. I went down some places that have only previously ever been walked down by the people that installed the roof in the first place.
Appparently, based on a million signs I saw, this is all the result of 'Active G - World Design City'. They have a website, talking about how the energy eminating out from the station precinct will improve the livelihood of the city.
They seek to spread positive energy from the station focal point by building a roof to everywhere.
Theres only one problem with all this, there are no people.
This roofed shopping street is apparently themed on the city of Florence. I am yet to work out how. The proper covered streets are a labyrinth, there is a Takashimaya hidden amongst the middle of it all.
Even though its under a roof already, this guy has also erected a tent around his izakaya, just to make sure.
By building a roof over everything they got rid of all the Yakuza in Gifu, and I presume most of the people.
Here is tonights loudspeaker idiots, conveniently parked under a roof.
There are actually quite a few police on the other side of the road where I am also standing watching whats going on.
I headed down a roofed street back to the station and found an Ippudo, world famous Ramen as found in Taipei and Sydney. Best ramen of my trip so far!
The spoon on the left had the extra hot chilli sauce I added, which was delicious.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2017-11-07 said:
Been waiting ages for you to fix this. How am I supposed to tell you that all the awnings over the shops are for the snowy days otherwise. Now I can move on to your next update yay.
David on 2017-11-07 said:
Actually theres some kind of bug in my code on this page, my alert that I forgot to add the link is when I dont get an email from my mother advising me theres a new comment.
I dont know what the issue is, the link went in the wrong spot under other content.
David on 2017-11-07 said:
yes, I keep forgetting the comments link....
Hiking Mount Ibuki as a day trip from Gifu
Today I went to Mount Ibuki, one of Japans 100 sacred mountains, whatever that means.
First of all, health report, I fear I am succumbing to the mucus spraying local populations snot plague. I felt tired yesterday and last night and today my throat feels weird. It may only be pollution poisoning. These are the end times.
I hoped last nights extra chilli would kill anything living inside me, but so far it hasnt, however I havent spiralled downhill yet either, more vitamin c, more placebo moooorreee!!!!
I could have decided going to a big mountain when I am not sure of my health status was a bad idea, but no, I decided to go anyway, and see how fast I could go up it!
Depending on where you read, it can take 5 hours or 3 hours, but I did it in 2 hours. I really did push as hard as I could up the long exposed switchbacks, and it was awesome.
There are a couple of ski field plateaus, no snow today though, its 23 degrees again and I was in shorts still. Instead of skiiers there were a couple of paragliders.
Anyway, I enjoyed the lack of trees, views all day, as you will see, with my excessive boring view pics.
I see to be talking in an abbreviated manner.
There is also a toll road to the top of this mountain, its highly impressive to me that they can make a road all the way up there, it comes a much longer way up a ridge down the other side, its far too steep up the way I hiked.
Me and all my hiking girlfriends (working day, very few men) didnt seem to mind. It means there are vending machines, a cafe and toilets at the top. I didnt use the cafe, but did use the vending machine and toilets.
It is also a very popular hike, once you get to the actual start, its about 5km from the nearest station and I ran it, through a deserted town. Apparently theres a bus, no time to mess about waiting for that to sort itself out, for me its quicker to run up the road.
Once on the trail, I passed heaps of people, and they seemed shocked I was in shorts. I think some of the people in all their alpine gear were mocking my stupidity, this is common. Also I am full of stupidity, the truth is somewhere in the middle.
However even at the top, it was not at all cold, even when cloud rolled in occasionally. I sat outside on the ridge enjoying my pocari sweat and some chocolate coated almonds I negotiated to buy off a grandma at the bottom. I am not sure they were actually meant for sale at her little stall!
There is only one path up and down, and on my way down I passed a lot of people still on their way up, some werent even half way up yet, many said the same thing when they saw me coming, 'oooooooh, so fast!'.
First I had to change trains at Ogaki, which is actually a castle town, and also the start of the Yoro line that goes up a long valley to many other castles.
I might go there tomorrow, then again Gifu is also a castle town, theres a big castle on top of a hill in Gifu somewhere. The weather was perfect as you can see.
On my run up from the station I forgot to take a photo of the mountain from afar until too late, you will see it on my way back...
Heres the start of the trail, in woods, I expected a fully exposed trail so this was surprising. Let the fun commence! I was running up hill here.
The woods didnt last long. This is the top of the lower ski field, theres a few lodges, all shut, but they have vending machines and toilets.
This is already quite high up, probably nearly an hour from the trail start. The plateau is deceiving, the bottom is a long way down from those buildings.
After I got over a ridge I could finally see the summit peak. It looks very far away, I better get a move on.
This was one of very few flat bits actually, It was constant switchbacks for 90% of the journey.
A nice bit of colorful forest, and people on the path ahead, I will pass them soon. The summit still looks a long way off.
Rock garden. The path was generally rocky, probably 2/3 of the time like this. My shoes look wrecked!
At times the summit was in cloud. I was concerned I would be freezing cold up there. I was not, not at all.
This photo makes it look like its downhill. I assure you its not, not at all.
I like to say not at all.
Almost there, still pushing hard, sweat was running off me, down my back, down may pants, down my legs, filling my shoes!
There are a few different summit markers, over there is the little village that you can get to from the car park on the other side in high heels.
The far side of the mountain. This is the most prominent mountain for a long way in any direction.
Because of its prominence, you have this situation -
'Mount Ibuki is well known for receiving the world's heaviest snowfall in recorded history. On February 14, 1927, the depth of snow at the top of the peak was 11.82 m (38.8 ft) according to government records, which is a world record.'
Today, 0 feet.
Me again, squinting. You can see the carpark in the bottom right of this pic.
A lot of people hate the fact you can drive to the top. Whilst it detracts from the mystery somewhat, cause when you get to the top theres a few hundred people up there who drove up, I dont have a real issue with it.
They have at least done a pretty good job of hiding the road, if only they could bury the huge high voltage electricty towers that are all over the mountain.
Last one, time to head back down the same way, no photos on the way down, too treacherous, had to put my camera in my little backpack and do up the straps.
I never fell over once, my shoes are awesome.
There is a little temple thing at the bottom. I checked the bus timetable, none for 3 hours, guess I will have to jog back to Omi-Nagaoka station then.
You can just see the summit of the mountain in this shot.
On my way back I remembered to take a shot of the mountain from afar, peak at the back, quarry on the left, ridge on the right has the road along it and inside it.
OK, one more, the way I went back to the station was on an old train line, at least I assume it was. It was flat, the right width, long sweeping curves.
At one point it went under the Shinkansen track, it was fun standing under it as they flew over head.
Today was a great day indeed!
A quick visit from Gifu to Nagoya
Tonight I went to Nagoya. I stayed there a few nights 2 trips ago, so I am quite familiar with it.
It is a huge city, very modern, and the main neon area is not near the station, so I managed to get about another 10km of walking on top of my 30 or so from earlier today, and yet my feet are still in great shape, all thanks to my amazing shoes I keep crapping on about.
To go from Gifu to Nagoya is really easy, there are special rapid trains that only stop once in between, so it only takes about 30 minutes, it does however cost about $5 each way, but its too far to walk.
Thats enough about trains and places I have visited before.
My hotel, like all hotels these days, does the whole eco cleaning thing. They go one better here, if you put on the no cleaning required sign, you get a free plastic bottle of spring water, because you did such a great job saving the environment.
I am not sure they have thought this through.
The next issue with this is, there is no do not disturb sign, so the closest you can get is the no cleaning required button which turns on a red light outside your door.
This is what you would turn on if you wanted to sleep nude in your room during the day.
Except now you are going to be getting your free plastic bottle of tap water, so they are going to come into your room anyway.
Its a complete circle of failure.
Pictures will be quite boring, and there wont be many because I was tired, and I have taken all of these photos before.
Here is the ferris wheel on the side of the buildings, kind of defeating the purpose by blocking the view.
This is in amongst all the department stores, they were still putting up the christmas lights here having taken down the halloween ones.
My dinner has everything.
A tiny slice of roast beef, thats the only meat.
A salad complete with some sort of super creamy dreassing which I would prefer it didnt have.
Then a small rice omelette, baked potato that needed to be baked more, and bread roll with butter injected inside.
Yes, my dinner had rice, bread and potato.
And after another long walk, I am back at the station, with its futuristic looking station buildings. I am not sure if they were both finished last time I was here? I shall check shortly.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2017-11-07 said:
A few carbs for dinner wont kill you after all the walking and jogging. NIce clear night photos.
mother on 2017-11-07 said:
Nice mountain. You are obviously in the highlands now for the tree line to be so low. If you ever get to climb Mt Fuji, you can start at the top of the tree line like I did, but hopefully you would make it to the top without altitude sickness like I had.
David on 2017-11-07 said:
Comments link is here!
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
Jenny on 2017-11-05 said:
Sannomiya is the area I am most familiar with due to many shoe shopping visits. Kobe used to sell good shoes.
David on 2017-11-05 said:
I think like the Yakuza, those guys are dying out.
Everyone is too busy looking at their phones now, thats their only hobby / way of life.
adriana on 2017-11-05 said:
Kobe is quite a nice city to live in me thinks. Particularly good for the bozozoku street tribes with the broom broom scooters and hoon mobiles at night. See any yet or are you in bed too early. like the houses in the burbs too.