Melbourne airport departure
It seems I have been dispatched to Japan to welcome in their first ever female prime minister, who may be an android, and possibly hopes to return to the glory days of world war 2.
To celebrate my arrival Japan de-valued their currency once more, meaning for mere pennies I can buy up huge swathes of historic castles.
Getting to this point, where I am sitting in the Singapore airlines lounge at Melbourne airport could not have been smoother.
I slept well, on the floor as I do, ran through the gauntlet of drunks to the awaiting Skybus (which did not break down) and then there were no lines anywhere at the airport.
So now it is time to spend about twice as long on 2 flights to Japan than is actually required because I insist on going through Singapore to save money rather than enjoying a direct flight.
The duty free, now run by South Korea in Melbourne, gets bigger every time I go through it. It is a tough sell to get me to buy something to carry around for hours and or a month depending on what it is. They do have the cheapest bottles of water in the airport, although of course I did not buy one.
Not to worry, I headed into the Singapore airlines Silverkris lounge which has nowhere to use a computer comfortably and proceeded to wash my hands repeatedly to remove the layers of Skybus scum.
This left just enough time to have a free breakfast, and coat myself, my laptop and immediate surroundings in a thin layer of melted jam.
Now I will go for a walk before boarding.
Singapore airport
I am currently re-hydrating in the Singapore airport briefly, and for the first time that I can remember the butterfly garden actually had butterflies. I just assumed they had all been killed by smokers and jet fuel fumes because the last 10 times I went through the green plastic chains to check on them there were none.
My flight was full and uneventful. Every flight is full these days. It seemed to take a long time, it was just over 7 hours but seemed longer. My seat and the seat in front of me had not had the fabric covers fitted correctly, and only the left channel worked in the audio of the on screen entertainment. This was in an Airbus A350 too, the newest model in the fleet, so Singapore airlines is slipping, despite their airport now having butterflies.
Now mentally prepare yourself for some boring airport photos, with butterflies, but no photos of the actual plane.
Proof that I was in Singapore airport, which is no doubt familiar to many. I think their marketing team does a great job at during the never ending airports awards season.
Here is the butterfly garden. I think it was basically dead one time when I visited a couple years ago, now it is all green again.
And finally, the view from where I am seated drinking about 2L of water out of tiny bottles.
I think my flight to Tokyo Haneda is delayed 20 minutes, but I also do not know where the gate is, so I had better hurry up and finish typing this and go find it.
Arriving at Tokyo Haneda
The rare third update in a day. Actually it was done when I woke up the next morning due to my late arrival.
The second flight was better than the first, seat was newer and I had a spare one next to me, but there were a lot more coughers and sneezers in my general vicinity so now we play the dreaded waiting game.
The challenge was, the flight left about 30 minutes late, then circled twice due to congestion before landing, in the rain. Given the cataclymically terrible arrival hall situation at Haneda airport, this meant I was now at risk of missing the last trains, which leave around midnight. So I race walked the very large distance to customs and passed about a thousand people standing still on travellators.
The line situation was still not good, there is still general confusion, the QR code still seems a bit pointless and there are more people wandering around with signs about QR codes than there are people actually checking passports, plus you have to scan your QR code 3 different times and it is all just convenience with extra steps, and a long line. However I got through in under an hour, last time was about 2.5 hours, so this meant I could make my train with ease.
It was however raining quite hard, and my hotel is a few hundred metres from the train station, so I arrived at my hotel looking a bit drowned and the night clerk was concerned for his safety at first, and then mine.
The good news however is, 3 hotel photos and a plane photo, the hotel room is a bit unusual as you shall see, I know no one read this far and scrolled straight to the hotel photos.
This photo was taken before departing Singapore. It is my plane, another Airbus A350. I thought I had better included one plane shot.
Now for the 3 photos of the hotel room, here is the first one, pretty standard, bed around to the left but where is the bathroom door? It is not just to my left. Note the desk and chair in this photo.
Behold, second desk. A hotel room with 2 desks and 2 chairs. How exciting. I will alternate between the 2 desks to type this nonsense. Also the bathroom door is down that weird hallway towards the second desk. I also have a lot of windows to deal with.
And finally after a very long day, the obligatory bathroom photo.
Tomorrow (Today as I am typing this) is raining all day, so no hiking.
Gotokuji temple in Setagaya
A rainy non hiking day. My schedule is in tatters. I knew this about a week ago, but it should be fine from this point on, but this might mean hiking 2 days in a row to catch up, even though I am too old and grey to be attempting such things.
When I woke up... I first updated this very website as if it were still yesterday, but then after that it was today, and raining.
I decided I needed to go and receive the blessing of the waving cat at the not too far away Gogokuji temple.
Getting there was a couple of trains and a tram, but that was part of the plan, wandering around underground in the sort of rain, stopping for coffee (twice), and then being surprised that it stopped raining.
Also, I upset the Nazi party.
My hotel is Ochanomizu is on this little shopping street, full of second hand stores, bookshops, plant shops and other things that appeal to people on bikes with beards. BTW, it is the Sotetsu Fresa hotel, famed for its rooms with 2 desks. I know if I do not put the hotel name I will be hounded to the ends of the earth until I do.
Since it was raining quite hard now, I decided to hang out under an overpass and check out the local drain scene.
At Setagaya I changed from a subway to a tram. I realised I had been here before, an area noted for it's old style rundown shopping areas and second hand clothes store, all of which have the exact same odour.
Here comes my tram. I was disappointed as google maps showed an old tram, not this bright orange new tram.
However when I got off, a completely preserved old tram which you could even go inside. I sat in it for a while, became overly excited, left.
Here it is, the entrance to Gotokuji temple. Quite popular on a rainy Sunday morning, I expected there to be no one here, soon you will see madness.
The grounds were very nicely maintained. Apparently this is a Buddhist temple, I often get confused by all this, but since I had looked it up, I can be sure that this one is Buddhist and not Taoist, Shinto or Scientologist.
I stood for a while waiting for lightning to hit this and cause an interdimensional rift to open. No such luck.
Around the back is all the waving cats. There are a lot of places that have thousands of waving cats. They all claim to be THE waving cat place. There needs to be a list of 'Waving cat places of Japan'.
Further out the back, following a path and tourist maps directing me to it, is the local graveyard, which then has signs asking you to not be there unless you are visiting graves. Make up your mind.
And then I took a while to figure out what was going on here. A line seemingly not moving that just ends and people turn around and come back. I joined it briefly but then thought better of it when I saw others just walk along side the line and go past the end of it, so I decided to do the same. It was then that I discovered it was a line to have your photo taken with a statue of a waving cat. His paw was shiny like the penis on all those statues in Europe tourists rub for luck. I am glad I left the line.
The I spotted this, on every light pole. I had to go and investigate. Maybe people dress their cats up for Halloween? The date confirmed it was on today. I was excited.
The path took me through a plum tree grove, where a man was sitting in the rain with a suitably black Halloween style cat, although the cat was not in costume, so no photo.
And then the shocking disappointment. Cat's Halloween is nothing more than a local school band wearing silly hats playing the theme from Titanic and a street performer blowing up black balloons. Halloween lasts about 3 months in Japan.
Behold, Nazi's. They hate it when I film them and wave and give a thumbs up and peace sign while they are preaching about destroying anyone without pure Japanese blood. A lot of their henchmen hide their faces, and the police are always there filming them too.
Then it was time to walk back to my hotel, which passes at least 50 guitar stores all on the famous guitar street. They have great stuff, but importing it to Australia is just too hard for me to be bothered with.
Ochanomizu to Asakusa
Tonight I walked from where I am staying in Ochanomizu, to Asakusa. It is not very far, but it started raining again which took me to a ramen place, promoted as Halal ramen with a very high google rating, which did not advertise prices on the window, that was very expensive. Most of what they called Halal was wagyu and so a bowl of that was $50 or more, therefore instead I got vegan Halal, which means the vegetables were cut with a ceremonial knife while a prayer was said. It was good, great quality noodles and I paid for the extra chilli, but that made it about $20. A normal bowl of pork ramen is around $10, so I guess you pay for Halalification.
It should be sunny in the morning, so it will be a hiking day. I have selected a shorter hike in case it is too muddy. Reviews of it talk about leeches, so I will wear my running tights under my shorts, although I also read you can just flick the leeches off with your finger nail. I do not recall ever having leeches stuck to my leg in previous years so this seems unusual.
It was not raining when I set off, but everything was still wet, which makes for great shiny light shadows.
As always, I enjoyed following the elevated rail line, usually there are interesting things crammed under them.
After walking along the river for a while trying to spot the Skytree hidden in the mist, I arrived at the back end of Asakusa, skirting around the shrine.
It was mot raining, so I did not head into the covered shopping streets. I took a photo to record that I did not go into them.
And then it started raining again. I headed back to a random subway and changed trains 3 times to get back to my hotel area, then stood in the rain to take a photo fo the rain.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
Brian on 2025-10-26 said:
Guitar street is always one of my regular stops in Tokyo. Great prices but a pain to bring home. I'll give the one pounder a miss thanks.
David on 2025-10-26 said:
I literally snapped it without stopping while crossing at the lights
jenny on 2025-10-26 said:
Bit daring standing in the middle of the bridge to take a photo. You would not have been a popular tourist if you had been caught.
David on 2025-10-26 said:
I dont think I have ridden that tram
There is a brand new one in Utsonomiya, the first new tram line in a very long time
Laura on 2025-10-26 said:
Always funny to see people lining up to take a photo they saw online. Japanese Nazis have cooler pants than American Republicans, have to give them that.
Have you ridden the old tram up north in Tokyo, the Toden-Arakawa line?
Hachiokayama from Fujino station
First hike, a short one.
There were numerous warnings that the entire area is infested with leeches, which are a new addition to many parts of Japan due to climate change. So many warnings that a spray was provided as you shall see. I did not get leeched.
I also encountered no bears, despite encountering zero other humans on the trail until almost the very end when I came across a group of pre school children having a picnic that involved a fire in the leech and bear zone.
Despite the lack of leeches and bears, I did see 2 snakes! Both were on the road, and slithered off as I approached, very long and thin, almost certainly non poisonous.
As for the hike itself, it stays down low and draws a picture, as you shall see, now for the rather lacklustre stats -
13.88km
1,210 calories burned
4 hours 32 minutes
741 metres vertical ascent
About 22,000 steps
So not a long hike, but more hiking tomorrow, now for a lot of mostly dark pics.
First up, the change to a new 1000 yen bill is still causing dramas across Japan. These are the vending machines on every JR train platform, and they only take the old ones. This must be costing the vending machine companies a fortune to change them over but also in lost business.
Here is the view from Fujino station. It was strangely dark for much of the day. I have started a hike here before, but turned right up to Jinba, today I will go left.
My journey took me over this bridge. That is lake Sagami, I have done a hike up the other end of this lake (left of this photo) that had been badly impacted by a cyclone.
Now for the leech warnings and the free spray. I spent a few minutes studying the various chemicals on offer, then just coated myself in all of them. The lack of bear warning was encouraging though.
Here I am, unshaven. I am basically wearing running clothes (full length tights) today, to fight off leeches.
I enjoyed running on the flatter wider stretches, leeches cant climb up me while I am running. Although there is a theory they fall out of trees, a recent study proved that to be incorrect. Also, apparently the type of leech you find here, you can just flick off with no lasting effect, no salt required.
To draw my dinosaur picture, I had to double back a few times, this was the main spot. It will all make sense below. That is my long suffering runners backpack that I use for hiking. I do not have the water bladder in it, instead I just put 2 bottles of water in it, as well as calorie mate BLOCK.
You can climb up here, but I don't think there is a view even if you do, so I decided not to risk plummeting.
Near the end of the main loop and ropes appeared. With the muddy trail they were definitely required.
I came back out onto a road near the lake for some great light over some farms. It was near here that I saw snake number one of two.
Near the end and there are some possibly abandoned hotels. This one is shaped like a ship. I saw snake number two of two near here, on the road.
Although this is a bridge, it is not the same one as at the start of the day, but I am nearly there.
Here is the view from the bridge from the start of the day, in the opposite direction, now with additional sunshine.
And there it is, Fujino station. The same station from where I started my drawing... what drawing you ask?
Well apparently the hike I did today is very popular, even though I saw no one, because you draw a picture of a Tyrannosaurus Rex. This is my Garmin app, and yes I took a photo of my laptop screen because it is just easier with my whole work flow for maintaining this monstrosity of a website.
You can clearly see where I doubled back to draw his leg and mouth, but also on the bottom left, his (or her) genitalia?
Ochanomizu to Shimbashi
Cheap ramen is better than expensive halal ramen. Read on for proof.
Tonight I set off with no plan, walked south until I got to the Imperial Palace, then quickly decided to flee in case of a passport check from the hundreds of angry police hanging around. Carrying your passport is the law, numerous foreigners have been arrested and held for a week in solitary before deportation forever, including one guy who was next door to his hotel at the convenience store. However with Australian passports now about $500 combined with my love of getting soaked and muddy with the odd fall into running water, I take the risk and leave it in my hotel.
Tonight was also very hot, too hot for pants, but I had on pants. Taking off your pants in the street is also probably illegal in this overly governed country.
Tomorrow is again a hiking day, the second in a row. I need to make up for lost opportunities due to the rain on my first day after arrival.
Food trucks are still a thing, everywhere. There is still nowhere to sit at a table, instead you just pour whatever you ordered into your lap or onto the ground. As long as you take a photo first its all good.
Here is a store for the people that helped me draw a bad picture of a dinosaur earlier. I went in and showed them. They asked me to leave when I asked if it was a boy or girl dinosaur.
Multi level seafood restaurants always do the most external decorating. The top floor has some kind of strobe light situation going on.
Here is tonight's superior cheaper ramen. 1000 yen ($10). Green chilli salt ramen, with extra green chilli. Very delicious.
And then after not too long at all, I arrived at Shimbashi. You can tell by the old train parked out the front. I have stayed in this area a couple of times.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
David on 2025-10-28 said:
I have copies of course, but in Japan they lock you up and deport you, it has happened to numerous Australians.
phil on 2025-10-27 said:
A copy of you passport should be OK. It is OK in Asia countries.
Laura on 2025-10-27 said:
That section of smoky meat restaurants near Yurakucho is my favorite. Love watching trains up there too
mother on 2025-10-27 said:
Shimbashi, one of my favourite places to stay. Good for walks to other areas too.
adriana on 2025-10-27 said:
interesting area. Very scenic.




















There are currently 5 comments - click to add
Adriana on 2025-10-26 said:
Windows are good ,but can they be opened
phil on 2025-10-26 said:
A350s are quiet but not much room.
adriana on 2025-10-25 said:
glad flight was uneventful
David on 2025-10-24 said:
great to have you back Laura
Laura on 2025-10-24 said:
oh hey it's this time of year again! you know I'll be checking this blog daily and commenting nonsense while I live vicariously through you. safe travels.