Yokosuka and battleship Mikasa
Today I took about a 90 minute train ride to the Navy bases, both US and Japanese at Yokosuka.
It is roughly in the same direction as Kamakura, in fact the train goes through Kamakura, but Yokosuka is on the other side of the peninsular.
It is a sizeable city with a lot of military presence, and you will see US soldiers from I think the navy but also the marines wandering around the city, many in uniform. A lot of American contractors also live in the area and much of the city is set up to provide services to Americans.
Having said all that, it was overall quiet, the designated bar street was mainly closed down, there are some other museums and things to see, the giant Aeon mall had a food court, etc.
For me, the main reason for going was to go see a 'Japanese' battleship, the Mikasa, built in the 1890's. Apparently back then Japan and the UK were allies and Japan lacked the skill to build ships, and so it was built in England. Surprising. This was also the flag ship of the navy for Admiral Togo, who was made a Count by the King of England, and did well in the battle of... Port Arthur. I read this while on the ship and had to immediately look that up, because why was there a naval battle with a Japanese ship near the spot in Tasmania which once held the lone gunman massacre world record? As it turns out, Port Arthur, China (Manchuria).
I make up ridiculous history sometimes, I would struggle to top this.
Here is the station at Yokosuka, not much to look at. There are actually 2 train lines to Yokosuka, this is the JR line which was more convenient from my side of Tokyo.
A gun from a ship that we probably can't talk about because it was when Japan was our enemy. Very near here is a French museum about how France taught Japan how to industrialise.
Apparently this is where everything happens, Dobuita street. It was very quiet and I think most places have closed down.
Now for the Mikasa. It is in a park, but the park is all closed for renewal. Thankfully the ship was still open, but some of it is also being renewed. The 800 yen entry fee ($8) was on the expensive side.
There were a couple of other people onboard as well as the workers, but there were also plenty of opportunities for photos with no other people.
There are 3 locations to steer the boat from. This is the armoured bridge. You would struggle to see where you are going through those tiny slits.
Here is the main bridge. You cannot just wander around it fully as it is roped off, which makes for some tricky photo angles. The funnels above are to yell orders via tubes.
Along the sides they have preserved some of the original fit out, here is a toilet, hello again google image search.
There are at least 3 different dining room areas, one for the Admiral, one for the Captain, one for the other officers. A lot of space was reserved for dining. This proves its really a British ship.
Shinjuku at night
Tonight I did something I have threatened to do for a while, went to Shinjuku and walked around and through it.
Normally I go there and immediately walk away from it, apart from when I am actually staying in a hotel there, which I have not done for years, as it is too costly.
At first I tried to stay away from Kabukicho and focused on the department store area, but then I found myself in the notorious Golden Gai, which I had confused piss alley, which therefore has one of the only public toilets around. I got many offers for services.
For dinner, A few streets away I spotted my favourite, Lanzhou beef noodle, in a very authentic place, only one thing on the menu, properly hand pulled noodles and it was great.
Tomorrow is the last hike, I will go somewhere I have been before, but I still need to get up early and sit on trains for a while.
Behold, Shinjuku that is not Kabukicho. The coloured neon archways are a relatively new addition. I wonder how many have been knocked down by advertising trucks. Also, someone move that van, its in my shot.
I spotted a model car shop. Specialising in just matchbox sized cars. These are all secondhand. This shop had 3 levels, and an annex store across the street.
This is the main street outside the non Kabukicho side of Shinjuku station. I like to stand in the middle of the road near buses.
Now for what I thought was piss alley but is actually Golden Gai. Almost exclusively for tourists these days as far as I can tell.
There are about 4 little alleys like this, the previously mentioned piss alley is north west of the station, where as Golden Gai is north east.
There are a lot of interesting hotels around, even large ones like this have prices for rest or stay.
Back at Ochanomizu, and it has a great opportunity to get decapitated leaning over the tracks to take a cool photo as a train arrives.
Final reminder, tomorrow is a hiking day, the last one.
Mount Takamizu from Ikusabata to Sawai 2
The final hike is completed. It was very easy.
I did a very similar hike in 2023 (refer to Japan10). I started and ended at the same stations today, but took a different and I think more scenic path down than on my previous vist.
The train journey to get here was back up the Ome line, near to where my hike 2 days ago ended, but this time I went up and down the other side of the valley, Starting at Ikusabata station and ending up at Sawai station.
Now the last set of stats -
19,600 steps - did not even break 20k
11.54km
3 hours 46 minutes
943 calories burned
755m vertical ascent
It takes between 90 minutes and 2 hours to get to Ikusabata station, depending on if you get a Chuo rapid or extra rapid, and which of the 3 branches of the Ome line it goes up or if you have to change trains somewhere. The station here is tiny.
Last time I was here, this little shop selling supplies for hikers was closed. Today it was open. I had stocked up on protein bars and isotonic water before getting here expecting it to be closed, but then I felt bad for the old guy running it so I bought an iced coffee, drank it in about 10 seconds in front of him, and handed him back the empty bottle. He looked concerned.
I think this is my 3rd time standing here waiting for a train to come over the bridge for a photo. My second time doing this hike, and one time I finished a different hike at this station. Still no train though.
The trail proper starts about 2km away from the station up a very nice road with little shrines. The sign here has a phone number to call if you want a bear delivered to make your hike more interesting.
Despite this being a short hike with a giant shrine complex in the middle (coming up shortly), the trail is a proper trail, complete with trail furniture.
Although here is the bridge. Once you are on top of the wall the trees here are the most colourful, once again suggesting they are deliberately planted near shrines.
They did not get me. Statistically, according to daily news articles, I should have been attacked by a bear 20x by now, but never even saw one. This is Sawai station, I sprinted to get here in time for a train, or else it was a 45 minute wait, so no chance for a stance photo.
Ueno to Tokyo Skytree
My hike was not long enough so this evening I set off for a stroll from Ueno to the Skytree. I have done this a couple of times before.
My route was a bit further south than I was expecting, and this took me past a surprise Shotengei, then shrine park and some restaurants under the tracks. All the things.
Once at the skytree, it was time to briefly look at the Christmas market, determine that the seating arrangements for eating overpriced things on sticks was not going to be to my satisfaction, and flee to the nearby safety of the food court.
I typed this before looking at the photos, I am keen to see how some of them came out because I found the street everyone else takes a photo of the skytree from, and indeed, there were others there doing the same.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, it probably could have been, but I already declared myself to be safe from bears, so to risk heading back into bear territory again would be asking for trouble.
Surprise Shotengai. East of Okachimachi some way after the highway overpass. Owl themed, named 'Satake', I have no idea if that means owl. Most things were closed.
They take xmas decorations seriously here. The bottom levels are shops of some kind, but above that I think is peoples homes.
Asakusa now, which I visited when I was in Tokyo 3.5 weeks ago. Here is a beef store with a shrine in the roof.
Final photo of skytree. Portrait orientation. I think this is the street most people take a similar photo from, but generally back a bit further with some zoom. I have no zoom.
Here is the xmas market. The tape on the ground for crowd control at the eating stalls seems optimistic.
The food court is more my pace. Actually the food court is my favourite place of all. I have been to this one before.
I lined up to get some sort of ginger pork hot plate thing, but in front of me were 2 deaf people seemingly ordering for 50 or more deaf people who kept coming up to change their order with sign language. I think it might be some kind of deaf Olympics, as I saw Ukraine Deaflympics jackets on some teens earlier. Maybe junior deaf Olympics, i don't know. Anyway, I could not wait for an hour to order, so I changed stores and got hot soba with pork and green onions. Not bad.
No plan for tomorrow yet, research time.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2025-11-19 said:
Been there, done all of that several times too.
adriana on 2025-11-19 said:
You'll have to do a stance photo in the middle of Tokyo somewhere
Walking the Yamanote line Part 1
Today I walked a full anti clockwise loop of the Yamanote line.
This is a popular activity many people do.
During my journey I took a photo of each of the 30 stations, and many things in between, so there are a lot of photos below.
I did not plan to do this, at about 8:30 this morning I was sitting in a cafe having a coffee working out what to do today. I nearly went to Yokohama but I was unsure if there was enough credit left on my IC card, and I do not want to withdraw any more cash, so instead I picked an activity with a lot of trains, but no riding on trains.
I completed this uninterrupted, but I will split it into 2 parts below so that my website does not break.
I do not consider this a hike, but I recorded the stats with my watch anyway, so here they are -
58,800 steps - not a record, I did over 60k twice before but both times had running involved
45.90km
10 hours and 20 minutes - including breaks, getting lost, taking photos etc.
363m vertical ascent
2,276 calories burned - thought it would record more but feels about right
There are a huge number of photos, too many. They might not all be straight. Descriptions will be brief.
This is the street from my hotel to Okachimachi station, my starting point. The steps and distance to the station are not included, but it is only one block.
Station 1 of 30 - Okachimachi. Not the main entrance. You will see this again at the end (if I make it).
I went anti clockwise, so headed north. Station 2 of 30, Ueno. A major station where Shinkansen trains heading north terminate.
Station 3 of 30 - Uguisudani. This one sounds like it belongs in India. You can go to the museums and zoo nearby from this station.
I had to cross the tracks a few times today. It was often not possible to walk alongside the tracks.
Station 4 of 30 - Nippori. Another major station with a couple of non JR lines transferring here too.
Station 5 of 30 - Nishi-Nippori. Not every station has a big entrance. I may have been on the lesser side too.
I am not entirely sure why, but a 2nd photo of Nishi-Nippori station. Maybe I was worried I would not take enough photos?
I then headed up hill to the highest point of the day, and then had to walk down and back up these stairs to get the station shot.
I got lost a few times trying to stick close to the tracks. If I did it again I would use more main roads between stations.
Now for a few shots of Takadanobaba. A busy area that has become a lot busier in the last few years.
Walking the Yamanote line part 2
And now.... we shall continue with part 2.
Will I make it back?
Will I have dinner at the end?
Probably.
Station 17 of 30 - Shibuya is still a construction site. I managed to get lost and waste a lot of time here.
Yebisu garden. I think I have been there once before, does that garage roof thing cover an old train line? This is not a station on the Yamanote line.
After Osaki, it is important to stay inside the train line or else it is a big loop around where all the trains park. If you do it right, you will soon be at station 22 of 30 - Shinagawa, and you will be on the home straight.
Shinagawa station itself is a big construction site, but the Shinagawa Prince hotel complex and theme park lives on.
Station 23 of 30 - Takanawa Garden is the newest station on the line, opening in the last year or so.
Hamamatsucho has also been a construction site for years, it is where the airport monorail goes from.
Now for the main station, Tokyo, which is station 28 of 30. The main station but Shinjuku is the busiest.
To celebrate, soup curry! Delicious.
It took me forever to type all this out, zooming in on the station names.
Tomorrow I fly home, but not until 4:40pm.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
jenny on 2025-11-20 said:
great walk. Many stations I have not got off at.
The end for now




















There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-18 said:
Mazilu Gyunikumen Shinjuku
馬子禄牛肉面 新宿店
jenny on 2025-11-18 said:
I also want to try the Lanzhou beef noodles
Laura on 2025-11-18 said:
so sad your trip is coming to an end. every morning I wake up to a new post.
Do you have the name of the Lanzhou beef noodle place?
adriana on 2025-11-18 said:
very interesting