Takamatsu castle and Ritsurin garden
Do you like photos of gardens? Do you like photos of castles? Do you like photos of castle gardens? If yes, then today is the day for you.
There are 2 things that bring people to Takamatsu, today I did both, in the rain.
Actually it was only rainy for about half of the garden visit, with no rain by the time I got to the castle, this was FORTUITOUS because there were very few other people to get in the way of my photos, at either location, on a Sunday. I think this is a miracle.
Both locations were nice enough, the garden is listed as one of the top 3 or 4 gardens in all of Japan, but this is very controversial. Let me elaborate -
"The top gardens in Japan are widely recognized as the Three Great Gardens, which include Kenroku-en (Kanazawa), Koraku-en (Okayama), and Kairaku-en (Mito). Other highly-regarded gardens include Ritsurin Park (Takamatsu)."
So you can see how Takamatsu is the poor cousin to the top 3, and while you are in Takamatsu, you will only find reference to the top 4.
The castle, well it is cheap to enter, but very small. I will explain more with a lot of pics.
I awoke to a lot of rain, as predicted correctly by the Japanese Bureau of Meteorology, who unlike the Australian equivalent still have a functioning website.
When I arrived at the garden I expected a huge crowd. I think this is everyone. It was very quiet. Entry is $5.
Very weird photo, the way the hedge is trimmed it looks like the photo cut off in the middle of the screen.
Over to the castle now (entry $2), which is about 2km away with the entire journey between garden and castle under a covered shopping street. Here is an old bridge. Not sure if old.
Gate with a view. The moat is interesting, it is sea water, there are not many castles in Japan with a sea water moat.
All the silly signs at the base of the pillars ruin every photo. One of them warns that if an early earthquake warning occurs, flee now in terror.
Takamatsu station area
More damp roads, time for more damp reflections.
Tonight I headed back to the station area, primarily to do reconnaissance for how to get to where I am going to tomorrow (IC card, cash, fax and wax seal? I still don't know), but also because I noticed when I arrived yesterday that there are a lot of eating and shopping places to gawk at near the station.
In the general vicinity is a convention centre and a dark sporting stadium of some description.
The station itself is not a bullet train station, but it mainly serves a purpose of how to connect to a bullet train at Okayama after going over the big train bridge connecting the mainland, which I will do in a couple of days time. If however you are taking a train line to somewhere other than the mainland, there is very little info available, but I think where I am going to tomorrow is the last station in the current slowly expanding IC card zone on Shikoku.
Here is the convention centre with the cylindrical closed off observation deck. I tried to get up there but I could not.
I decided to explore further within this compound. There are a few restaurants and tourist group extorting stores.
And for dinner, soba, with fried tofu, and beef on rice. So noodles AND rice. Hmm. No vegetables of course, the Japanese are terrified of them.
Night castle. I hand held this!
Tomorrow is a hiking day, I have changed to a shorter hike as I will have to do 2 days of hiking in a row to catch up due to the rain today. There will be very famous shrines and probably a lot of staircases.
Osayama from Kotohira station
Today was a bit of a surprise.
First of all, I took a different train line in each direction, and both the JR line and the private Kotoden line took IC cards, on Shikoku, amazing.
Then I expected to be in kind of in a small town, and then ascend a concrete staircase to a shrine, wander around the top, turn around and come back, without having done too much of a hike.
Well it was a big town, with a huge amount of mostly Japanese tour groups, the walk up to the shrines was indeed a concrete staircase, but then I continued on past the shrines on a poorly maintained somewhat dangerous hiking trail, for hours. It was great.
I also took too many photos, a record for this trip.
So.... we will now do the stats, then a lot of photos, and by we, I mean me -
27,500 steps
15.37km
820m vertical ascent
5 hours and 1 minute
1,198 calories burned - still not enough!
I went to Kotohira on the JR line, here is the station. There is a 7-eleven inside, and I stocked up there, but there is no need as there are numerous other convenience stores around.
Here is a giant lantern. It is right near the Kotoden station, which I will use to get back to Takamatsu. I do not really understand what this would have lit up when it was used as a lantern.
The stairs are a big deal apparently, people buy a stick and get stamps etc. I believe there are several hundred to the top shrine.
There was a mix of ages, but mostly Japanese people as far as I could tell. I am constantly shocked at how unfit younger people are these days. I blame uber and scooters.
But wait, more shrines. This one was doing a changing of the guard ceremony. That's what it is isn't it?
I like those little mountains that stick up in an otherwise dead flat landscape. You will see a lot of these little mountains today.
Top shrine. The crowds had already thinned out by now. Finding the actual hiking trail beyond here requires a map or local knowledge. You have to back track slightly, and they have hidden it, there is just one small hand drawn sign. Yamap is your best bet, I needed it today.
I cannot really convey it properly in photos, but large sections of this trail were on a 45 degree angle to the hill, muddy and slippery, with my outside foot constantly sliding a bit, and the risk of falling and sliding down a muddy hill.
I was relieved to leave the dangerous part of the trail behind me (for now!) and emerge at a road at the far end of the mountain range.
Except... this is an ancient tomb. I have never seen anything like it before. The sign showed ancient half naked Japanese people dressed like Egyptians.
There is a viewing platform for the tomb, but the view of the mountains below is also great, mildly spoiled by the wire.
My path then took me back through some bamboo, with ancient walls hidden within. I will now head up the central ridge of the mountain range.
Right at the top is the usual array of communications equipment, and a road. There was a giant fence with barbed wire on this road, more so than usual.
The start of the way down was also a road, quite unusual, a cleared area on the left of the road. Also here you can see the only 2 other people I saw all day.
It was a long descent, with a lot of hanging onto trunks and half sliding down. I was happy to get to this point.
Nice view in a different direction. I saw pigs near here! Apparently they are dangerous but they seemed quite small to me. I urinated here to assert dominance.
I ran through the city to make this train on the private Kotoden line, made it with 5 minutes to spare. Although trains to here are at least every 30 minutes, so it would not have been much of a wait. The ride back was an hour.
It took me ages to type all this nonsense about all these photos, so there probably won't be too many more tonight!
Takamatsu shotengai roof
Tonight you will once again, see a lot of covered shopping streets, but possibly, you will see them in a different light.
You see, here in Takamatsu, they have high roofed Shotengai, with multiple levels to view them from, and also a train. I was a bit shocked by the train, see below.
I also need to point out that some of Takamatsu is closed on Monday, including 2 places I had previously eyed off for tonight's dinner, this resulted in a rather lacklustre dinner as you shall see.
Tomorrow, a repeat of today, a famous shrine filled hiking day. I hear people groaning at the thought of another 50 photos of sloping mud.
Despite being a Monday, quite busy. Those flags of course have some kind of locally famous pokemon on them. A lot of people are crowded around under the flags near the pokemon shop playing the pokemon gambling game.
Next I ascended the big store I posted a photo of the other night to the top level expecting there to be restaurants. There were not. Instead, manhole covers.
And finally my rather disappointing dinner of omurice. At least it had a salad. This place served a bit of everything, they should probably specialise in something and get good at it.
Now I will work out how to get to my hike tomorrow, I am certain IC cards will not be accepted.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-11 said:
still never seen a bear
extremely unlikely to on Shikoku as there are less than 100 in total
Brian on 2025-11-11 said:
Nice views David but have you run into any bears yet? Hope not.
adriana on 2025-11-10 said:
The barber shop English is the best yet.
Laura on 2025-11-10 said:
So many interesting sites along the way, the tomb is especially awesome
mother on 2025-11-10 said:
Must check out Kotohira
Mount Inazumi from Motoyama station
More accurately, Inazumiyama, Shihoyama, Mount Ueno and various others from Motoyama station including Takaya Shrine "gate in the sky", there was a lot to see today.
Today's hike was better than yesterday's. Better hiking, better view, in fact I will give it the coveted featured tag so that it forever stays on the front page of my website.
I took photos of everything so I will describe the whole thing in excruciating detail below...
After the stats of course-
31,000 steps
20.11km
6 hours and 4 minutes
1,008m vertical ascent
1,482 calories burned
Here is Takamatsu station near dawn. Great weather, great light, great clouds. Today was a cash only train ride, 1200 yen (about $12) in each direction.
An hour and 10 minutes later, Motoyama station. It is really in the middle of nowhere. Getting off was the honour system. no one to check tickets.
Some of today's low mountain range. I walked a few hundred metres out of my way to visit a convenience store to stock up on supplies.
The hike start is not too far from the station, it starts at a location labelled as a county park, I can see that part of the mountain used to be a quarry.
I could have stopped and played a round of mini golf, of course there was no one else around. There are however toilets and vending machines.
The hiking trail today was a proper trail from the start, but never really muddy or slippery or dangerous in any way, but be aware, no other people, well almost none as you shall see.
There were a lot of flat bits suitable for jogging, but there were a lot of spider webs and giant spiders, I had to walk with a stick in front of my face. Thankfully my course today meant I doubled back over much of my path, so I could run on the bits I had already removed the spiders from.
There are a lot of labelled summits on the trail, but the highest is under 500m. Today is all about the view.
As always there is a satellite spy station on one of the summits, and a hidden road to get there. You only have to walk on it for a hundred metres or so.
It is also the only spot that I saw any other people at all, because they walk up this stair case from the sea, but not to see the shrine....
Next view, with a rope. I suggest yamap if you want to do the course I did as there are a few different choices to make.
Almost at the furthest point from the start where I will turn around, and it got colourful, I think some of the plants here have been planted deliberately by humans.
I had timed it (by accident) almost perfectly to meet the once an hour train, but still had enough time for a rare photo of a farm that is not burning any rubbish.
And then it was time for a 70 minute ride back to Takayama, for much of the journey I had the train to myself.
Once again this took a while to type up after a long day, so not too many photos later.
YouMe town Takamatsu
Aeon is the main mall in town, but it is very very far away. YouMe town, which is the second mall brand in Japan after Aeon, looked close enough on the map, but was still quite far away. As a result I now have over 45,000 steps for the day and am full of Okonomiyaki. My bingo card of Japanese junk food dinner meals for sad loners is pretty close to full now.
To get to YouMe town just head to the northern end of the Shotengai, and keep going. You will pass a few supermarkets, a formal Coco curry restaurant, a baseball shop and a few Hawaiian themed stores and cafes before arriving at a deceptively large mall with a great food court.
Tomorrow I go to Okayama, I have not been there before, the name of the city is very similar to the name of my dinner.
The giant drug stores are a weird concept. Complete with a logo that shows a happy girl with sleepy eyes.
A surprise underpass in the middle of nowhere, with no choice but to use it. I spent some time down here trying to figure out why it was here, I could not come up with a reason, the road above was not busy.
Inside reminds me a bit of a Shinkansen station. Most malls are long and narrow with a hole in the middle between floors. This one was more like a multilevel warehouse as wide as it is long.
An excellent food court. It was called Food Marina, despite being far from the ocean. I like all the empty seats, allowing me to sit far away from anyone.
And here it is, Okonomiyaki. 1,000 yen. A real bargain as it was delicious.
To get to Okayama tomorrow takes about an hour on the slow train, I will have to invent new ways to make that take all day.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
Adriana on 2025-11-11 said:
Hiroshima okonomiyaki is the best.
Laura on 2025-11-11 said:
man I love Japanese malls. that okonomiyaki looks stellar
. well deserved after 45,000 steps 😱
mother on 2025-11-11 said:
yes nice T shirt




















There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-09 said:
oh, it is udon under the tofu, did I write soba? I meant udon...
Also I did not feel the earthquake and given my location, no tsunami warning here
jenny on 2025-11-09 said:
you are supposed to eat udon noodles
山雪 on 2025-11-09 said:
高松 在 日语 中指 的 是 高大 的 松树。