Mount Bizan and Tokushima castle
Today on my rest day, I did a small hike to the top of the small mountain in the middle of the city, Mount Bizan. It was wet, steep, mossy and probably the most dangerous hike I have done so far on this trip. I was expecting a staircase. There is a cable car, if you do not take the cable car, then you will ascend via one of multiple paths that are primarily moss covered jagged rocks, in the fog. It was great. I probably should have started my watch and recorded the stats.
At the top of Mount Bizan is a Buddhist something (I have given up trying to guess), a smoking area, and a series of communications towers. There is also a giant car park as you can drive up too. The good news is there are a lot of vending machines, so I was able to have an ice coffee to build up enough courage to go down a different rocky mossy path. I did not slip over at any point, a great achievement.
After my surprise rest day hike, I continued hiking on my non hiking day by heading to the Tokushima castle... ruins. The grounds are nice. There is no castle, and they strangely have hidden the view.
It appears to have rained all night. Lots of puddles but no rain now. There is mighty Mount Bizan, with some fog hanging around. I headed straight to it hoping to experience fog.
Looking back towards the station, and there are palm trees. It does not seem very tropical at the moment.
Japan is so peaceful and quiet, except it is not. There are thousands of idiots driving around in a van equipped with huge loud speakers. Normally they are preaching the greatness of Donald Trump and the desire to return to being a country closed to foreigners, this one however is advertising an animated film called Dragon Heart.
At first there was a staircase. It was a bit crumbled and possibly about to slide off the mountain. I expected this to last to the top.
The staircase ends at this bizarre makeshift seating area with coke crates and bamboo. What was strange is that there are numerous real seats very nearby, including some undercover.
There was also fog yesterday but I messed around trying to find a good spot to take a photo of it, and it disappeared while I was not taking a photo. I did not make that mistake today.
Once at the top, and here is the promised smoking area, Buddhist facility of some kind, and communication tower covered in blue shade cloth.
Next up, the castle. Nice moat and bridge. The sign talks about this being a historic wooden bridge and various battles. It is now however, concrete.
Here it is. The castle. There is nothing left, not even foundations. It is hard to believe there was ever one here.
And finally, they have also seemingly tried to ensure there is no view. This is the best I could do. There is Mount Bizan from earlier too.
That was a lot of photos for a rest day.
Aeon mall Tokushima
I have not been to a mega mall yet. I have not been to a food court yet. I have not had pasta yet. Lets go do all 3.
The more rural the city, the more likely they are to have an Aeon mall, Tokushima does not disappoint. It is about a 50 minute walk (in each direction) from my hotel. I made sure to walk there and back using a completely different set of roads. On the way there, very well lit, many convenience stores and overpasses. On the way back, dark and not even a foot path.
As for the mall and the pasta, mall was ok, food court was great but I went to the restaurant floor instead, probably should have gone to the food court as the restaurant pasta was slightly expensive and slightly bland, despite coming with unadvertised bacon.
Tokushima is the king of pedestrian overpasses in Japan. Taipei still has it beat overall, but in Japan, nowhere I know of has so many of these, including the great 4 way ones to assist you in crossing diagonally, or just running laps.
Because I can read Chinese characters, I now realise this is a rice vending machine station. There are a few grades on offer, the most expensive being 5kg for 5,000 yen ($50). I don't think we have unmanned rice vending stations in Australia. Also, new style bank notes not accepted, 500 yen coins not accepted, yet it is cash only. It really seems as though they prefer to not sell rice.
Tonight is the super beaver moon (seriously), so I wandered out along here to look at it. I have no zoom so the photo is useless, instead check out the Aeon mall sign.
Now for the food court. It was large enough and nice looking, but then I noticed upstairs was a restaurant floor.
And so I headed up to the slightly more expensive food. In hindsight, cheaper would have been better.
Because here is my small serve of pasta, over priced at about $12, although I think it may have included all you can drink coffee and soft drinks. It was not a Salzeriya (popular chain store), they had one of those too, those are super cheap. Also I did not expect it to have bacon, in fact I think it translated to vegetable pasta.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, with a bus, cash only bus that comes once an hour.
Mount Nakatsumine circular course
Another good hike on a what was a very bright day. When I selected Tokushima as a place to come to, I was not sure if the hiking would be any good, but both hikes have been great, and even the designated non hiking day (yesterday) had a good hike.
Today's destination required a bus, but it was only about a 40 minute journey, came on time in both directions, departs once per hour, cost about $6 each way (cash only of course). When I got on at the main station, where the route starts, I was a bit confused because the ticket machine would not give me a numbered ticket, which you use to work out the fare when you get off. But it seems if you get on at the start of the route you do not need one. I will also point out that at least 10 other people got off at stops before me (I was the last remaining on board), and none of them paid any money at all, they all seemed to have pension cards of some kind.
Now for the stats and then a lot of photos -
24,500 steps
14.83km
5 hours (and 16 seconds)
1,226 calories burned
940m vertical ascent - felt like more
The bus stop to get off at is called Takara. It is about 1km from the bus stop to the start of the trail. There are no convenience stores, there are drinks vending machines (cash only).
Today I will walk up the right side, all the way along the mountains in view, and down a ridge just off to the left of the screen.
Also surprising, the first part of the trail behind the gate in the above pic, is the hardest part to follow, there are many other ways up, I think one of them is more popular than the circuitous route I had selected.
Lower parts were nice and ferny. I saw a foot long black worm of some description, or maybe it was a baby snake.
I suspect this is going to have some big power lines added to it soon. There are plenty of others with similar gouges in the landscape.
There are a couple of roads to cross on today's route, including one that comes to this secret base in the woods.
Arriving at the summit of Nakatsumine (I think), and you have to go through a hole in the wall. Maybe the shed through the hole is a shrine, but I don't count it as one.
Because of the nice warm dry weather, farmer's have commenced burning piles of plastic all across Japan.
What are these things hanging from the branches? Some sort of warning? The only person I saw all day is sitting behind me playing a harmonica, an old lady with no teeth. Is she a witch?
OK, I know what this whole area is, but if I did not already see it on the map before I started the hike I would assume it was a ski field, without ski lifts.
This whole area is a hang gliding park. There was no one at all here, and I am not convinced it is actively used.
The reason I think it might no longer be used, this departure ramp runs straight into big trees. Also if you squint you can see a few big wind farm style windmills in this pic, in my experience these are a rarity in Japan, there are solar farms everywhere but very few wind farms.
After departing the hang gliding park, it was time to go along a long ridge joining 2 summits. It was quite rocky at first.
I was tempted to use Adobe Lightroom's new AI replace feature to get rid of the wire, but that is a slippery slope.
Tokushima on a Friday night
Last night in Tokushima, probably ever, so I better go do another lap. I have enjoyed my time here, but it seems unlikely I would ever visit again, it is too small and remote to be on the way to somewhere I have not been before, plus I am old and need to focus future trips on similar places I have not been to previously, of which there are many.
It is very quiet here, even on a Friday, although a lot of people with suitcases appeared to be arriving at the train station just as I was returning to my hotel for yet another early night (in bed by 9pm). Perhaps I am tucked up in bed before anything interesting actually opens, I am fine with that.
In non Tokushima or even Shikoku related news, it is time for an update on bears.
Up in the north, where the air force is bombing bears now, the residents are being urged to carry an empty plastic bottle with them wherever they go, and crinkle them continuously. A recent study identified this as the noise bears (and humans, and every other living creature) hates most. So if you are visiting Akita soon, expect to hear this 24/7. I am thinking of inventing a machine that constantly crinkles an empty bottle, in fact I just thought of it, since there are vending machines everywhere, and bins to put empty plastic bottles in next to them, just install a crinkler in those. I am a genius.
There is a river running through Tokushima. They put some lights and things on the various bridges, but the water front seems very under developed.
This is Awaodori Kaikan. A tourist information building (with cable car station) that specialises in paid Buddhist dance performances. I was too late to see the dance.
The bottom of the dance exhibition cable car station also features a tourist souvenir shopping extravaganza. The dark blue (indigo?) theme seems to be a local speciality, I noticed dark blue dyed flowers in many of the local florists.
This is the night club area. I really do think I am too early to see anyone at all here. Oh well, I will have to go clubbing another time.
And finally, time for my dinner, at ubiquitous Coco curry. So ubiquitous they have an outlet in Tokushima. It is not as good as it was many years ago, and much of the menu on the touch screen was unavailable at this branch, but you do get to customise, which for me means less rice more spice.
Tomorrow I go to Takamatsu. I could just about walk there.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2025-11-07 said:
been to Takamatsu on the ferry. We were too late for the garden when we got there.
jenny on 2025-11-07 said:
another hike to add to the list
Limited express from Tokushima to Takamatsu
$32 for a one hour train journey of 50km that although advertised as a limited express still stopped at nearly every station and 3/4 of the 2 carriage train was unreserved seating. A rip off. Pretty much the only thing that is expensive in Japan is the trains, but this was taking it to a new level. I wonder if it is much cheaper to go in the opposite direction from popular Takamatsu to unpopular Tokushima and the exorbitant train fee is a kind of departure tax.
Anyway, I made a day of it, included a photo of my lunch, and was able to check into my hotel early, so brace for hotel pics, and even a hotel window view pic. Exciting.
Before departing Tokushima, it was time for another lap, at dawn. Here is the river, with boats, none of them were moving though.
A random Tokushima street with mostly closed down businesses. I suspect Takamatsu will be quite different in this regard.
Here is my 2 carriage 1/4 reserved seating limited express, covered in cartoon characters, because of course it is. A lot of people were excited to take photos.
Inside is a train. I was surprised it is only 2 carriages. Admittedly the bus is cheaper, maybe most people take the bus, but does the bus have cartoon characters on the ceiling, probably.
Here is my lunch, because I was too early to check in. The fruit and vegetable smoothie drink is a favourite I discovered on a recent trip to Korea, it really is thick like a smoothie, I do not want to know how they thicken it. The sandwich from left to right is, corn, tomato and cucumber, potato salad. All nice enough, even the corn, but the potato salad is my favourite.
Now for my hotel room, it is a Daiwa Roynet, same chain as in Tokushima, but an older style of room. Although located a bit away from the station, it is attached to the WORLD RECORD HOLDING LONGEST SHOTENGAI, and is on top of a shopping mall too. Annoyingly you have to take a lift up to the 8th floor, where the hotel starts, and then transfer to another lift. Convenience with extra steps. However, under $100 a night, and a great desk and chair.
The bathroom is nowhere near as good as the excellent shower blaster room within room setup that Tokushima had.
Takamatsu Shotengai
Takamatsu makes spurious claims about having the longest Shotengai (covered shopping street) in Japan, which therefore means longest anywhere since it is a Japanese thing. I am here to declare that Kobe is longer. I crowned Kobe the champion a week ago, I stand by that claim.
When I read about the claim made by Takamatsu, I expected it to be one long, linear covered street. The longest individual length is nowhere near the longest anywhere. Instead it is a series of sort of connected shopping streets and I genuinely feel that Kobe is bigger if you include one slightly misaligned street crossing diagonally across an intersection.
This controversial view may result in my arrest.
OK, at first I thought, this is a parallel non related bit and I will just walk down here and find the start of the proper one.
Then I just cut across to the main one with this perpendicular one. I am tired of typing Shotengai, so I will just use non descript terms.
This bit is my hotel, which is on top of the mall with the escalators. I am already annoyed about waiting for the lifts with the mall crowds to get to the 8th floor so I can change lifts. A stupid system. I think my next hotel in Okayama has the same setup too.
As you head further along the main bit, it thins out a bit, but not to Tokushima levels of desolation.
Off to the side is a big shop on top of a non JR train line. I did not properly explore. It was about here that I saw the map explaining that the total length is all the different non related bits of Shotengai combined, and I am convinced Kobe is bigger.
I gave up trying to measure 2.7km once I realised it was all lies and went for ramen, an unappealing colour, but very nice.
The back streets between all the Shotengai areas are also quite busy, much more so than Tokushima. Apparently by population, Takamatsu is 414k, Tokushima is 250k, but the way they count population here is misleading as it is not metro area or built up area, it is by council or county area, similar to the USA.
Tomorrow is supposed to rain... hiking may be delayed.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
Laura on 2025-11-08 said:
It's criminal you didn't post a glamour shot of the whole train 😆
adriana on 2025-11-08 said:
Apparently Takamatsu is famous for udon so maybe tomorrow night you can check it out.
David on 2025-11-08 said:
I tried to take a slow one, but there was none on offer, it was not possible to buy a local ticket between the two cities, just the limited express. I expect you have to get off somewhere in between, exit the station, and buy another local train ticket if you want to travel cheaply
adriana on 2025-11-08 said:
that was an expensive train. Should have taken a slow one.




















There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-06 said:
The pilgrimage trail goes on the mountains around the coast, but also every mountain has a hiking trail, I'm yet to find one that doesn't
Laura on 2025-11-06 said:
That's a shockingly bad portion of pasta. This series is making me really want to visit Tokushima
mother on 2025-11-06 said:
nice variety of photos today. Is there a hike that goes over the mountain range along the coast that is in some of your photos today?