Higashiyama from Itayado to Sumaurakoen station
Today was a shorter hike up and down 2 hills that can barely be described as mountains, despite the abundance of cable cars.
The view however was amazing, so I was very happy with my decision to pick on this smaller 'mountain' range.
I could have actually walked to the start point from down town Sannomiya, but I did take a train to Itayado station, and of course, there was a covered shopping street right there, at the start of the hike.
A lot of view shots below, so lets get straight to the stats -
18,500 steps
8.92km - short, but some rocky bits
3 hours 19 minutes - no running today
639m vertical ascent - more than I expected
781 calories burned - I need to burn more or eat less
I followed my map a couple hundred metres through alleyways to this staircase, which is the start of the hike proper.
Soon after the shrine, an old man hang out spot. They were nearby collecting pine cones. For what purpose I have no idea.
The hiking trail was nice enough, despite the low altitude. I thought most of it would be just like this.
I thought the rocks and gravel on today's trail reminded me of South Korean hikes, and then these apartments also reminded me of Korea.
The next peak, according to the map there were 4 or 5 along the trail, I cannot find all their convoluted names now.
I stopped here to annoy a very old cat that had no interest in moving at all. The old lady was debating the cat about how lazy it is.
The top of this second mountain is very developed, there are numerous cable cars, you will see more later.
Surprisingly, the trail then got good again, and not without potential slipping onto your ass areas.
There was a games arcade and restaurant at the top of the last peak, and so I took a photo of people getting conjunctivitis. Really, don't put your eye on that.
And then after not too long at all, I was back at Sumaurakoen station, which is both a train and a cable car station.
Since I was back early enough, I then went and did my washing (laundry) at a coin laundry. I hate the free hotel dryers, the huge ones at the coin laundry are awesome. Usually I take a photo of the dryer, but I took too many photos today already.
Kobe Harborland and Port
Last night in Kobe, better head down to the docks.
The docks are called the harbor and the port. There was a pirate ship.
Kobe had a giant earthquake in 1995, the main image you might remember is the highway on it's side. They have rebuilt nearly everything, but there is a swimming pool sized bit of destruction preserved. It was rather difficult to see in the dark.
Nearby, is the collection of shops referred to as Harborland including Mosaic, which is largely restaurants in what I presume used to be old sheds. I remember going there on my previous visit.
It was all a bit quiet for a national holiday, even though everything seemed to be open.
Tomorrow I go to Tokushima on Shikoku. I have not been there before. Not many people have. Getting there requires either a ferry or a bus, I have done reconnaissance on how to get the bus, so right now that is the way I am leaning, especially because it is cheaper.
It seemed rather fitting that a fake pirate ship would pull up. The sail is a purely decorative mesh.
I decided to go to famous Chinese chain Nanas green tea for dinner, they normally have something healthy. The spinach curry was nice, the cheese was unexpected. Paper cup of tap water tells you it is a classy establishment.
Then I discovered that there is yet another underground complex leading to the largely now pointless Kobe station.
Which soon lead back to the longest of all the Kobe Shotengai, Motomachi, which goes for 1.5km straight back to my hotel.
Kobe to Tokushima on a Highway bus
I have now arrived in Tokushima, a place so remote that it is easier to get to by bus or ferry rather than train. Of course, it still has a population of about a quarter of a million people, but it does appear quite rural on the drive in.
The bus ride from Kobe took 2 hours and cost $35 or thereabouts. There were about 5 stops on the journey, but you had to ring the bell, the driver slowed at each stop to check if anyone wanted to board but did not always stop. There was no visit to a highway service centre.
I had placed my bag under the bus, and when I put it in there, I was the only one who had, so it was a bit surprising that on 3 occasions someone messed around under the bus at a stop where no one got on or off. Luckily, my bag was still there when I got off, if it had of been stolen the timing would have been particularly bad as I did laundry yesterday and all my old clothes are clean.
Now for my hotel, it is easily the best and cheapest yet. Daiwa Roynet, attached to the station, $70 a night. Photos below.
Everyone on the bus, except me, shut the curtains, and glared at me for not doing the same. Standard behaviour for Japan.
This is the view going over the main bridge, the one I hung off the bottom of 2 days ago. This one takes you from Kobe to Awaji Island.
Where as this identical looking photo is the bridge from Awaji Island to Shikoku, which is also an Island, located in an Ocean.
Here is the view somewhere near Naruto, which is not technically part of Tokushima, but it is joined on.
Now for my room. Great desk and chair, full queen sized bed, bonus powered massage chair I won't use.
And the bathroom then has a room with in a room, with a large bath. Luxury, all for $70 (Australian) a night. I guess Tokushima is not a popular destination.
Tokushima Kagoyamachi
I knew that Tokushima would be quiet, I was hoping it would be, so that I can wander and observe a lot of closed garage doors in shopping malls. I was not disappointed.
The actual city area, is a little bit away from the station area (which even has a Mitsukoshi department store), over a river. The river appears to have cruises on it in little boats, but it was very dark, I am not sure what you would see. Right behind the city is a mini mountain with a cable car, I will investigate walking up there at night, hopefully there are lights.
The ramen however, was fantastic, the best yet.
Here is the station area. There are a couple of big department stores behind me. I will do more photos of that area on another night after a day of hiking.
To get from the station area to the old city area, you can follow the above ground walkways, which ensure the stores below get zero foot traffic. The little mountain with the cable car can be seen in the distance.
Time to look at everything being closed. Cyclists go down here at alarming speed. I believe it is called Kagoyamachi.
This bit is more colourful, with a few open shops mostly selling second hand clothes, furniture and laserdiscs.
I was a bit surprised that a lot of the crossing streets are semi pedestrianalized, but still basically closed. This was the busiest looking of about 8 similar streets.
Along this street, every single one of these covers (at least 20) had deliberately been put back the wrong way around. It was chaos!
Running off the grungy alleyway, was a dark corridor, with a very uninviting Ramen shop. No pictures of the food, ticket machine, cash only, no English. It took me 30 seconds to figure out how to open the door. I had read reviews on google maps and the pics of the food there looked great, so I showed the guy a picture on my phone and he showed me which button to press on the ticket machine, and it was possibly the best ramen ever. We never exchanged a word.
Anyway... blow torched pork, a full egg, huge bamboo shoots, and thicker very square shaped noodles. Excellent.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, the trains here are CASH only, so I will need to leave enough time to figure that out and make sure I carry change and notes that are not too new for the ticket machine to accept.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-05 said:
It is called Miso Soba JAC and is located just west of the Tokushima JR station off a covered alleyway.
山雪 on 2025-11-04 said:
这拉面看起来很好吃
Laura on 2025-11-04 said:
Is that the ramen shop with 2,000 something Google reviews with free egg refills?
David on 2025-11-04 said:
The highway was mostly enclosed by high noise barriers
mother on 2025-11-04 said:
could have taken more photos of the countryside.
Mount Kotsu from Awa-Yamakawa station
Today's hike is known by many different names. Generally in English, Mount Kotsu, the shrine on the top is called Kotsu Temple, which apparently is a Buddhist Shrine, but has a lot of Torii gates. Hmmm.
On Japanese websites it is called Takakoshiyama, but also Takatsuyama, maybe. I thought perhaps given the large shrine complex on top that this was all part of the Shikoku 88 shrine pilgrimage trail, but my research tells me it is not, so instead, THE STATS -
17.88km - includes 4km on roads
5 hours 20 minutes - I messed about on the top for a while
1,142m vertical ascent
1,281 calories burned
29,500 steps
There is my mountain, with some cloud. My camera makes it look further away than it is. It is about 2km to the start of the trail. Today is an out and back hike, so 4km on roads total.
Another view of the mountain. I should mention there are actually 3 convenience stores near the station, very surprising as the town seems almost abandoned.
Here you can just see the mountain, in the distance past the ridge in the foreground with the giant electricity things on it.
Convenient signage to tell you where to start the hike. You can find this on google street view easily enough (I did).
It is a real trail from the get go, but does cross a couple of gravel logging roads or shrine access roads. There is another road up to the top shrine that loops around the back, but I heard and saw no cars all day.
The trail is well maintained, and must get a lot of foot traffic, however today I saw only one other person all day. There were no cobwebs though, so someones been up or down today.
You saw these giant power poles in an earlier pic. Now I am standing under one. Not a lot of spots for a clear view today.
Top shrine. No one else here. There is a real road nearby with a car park (according to the map), but I saw nobody.
It was a large complex with many attractions, but it was time for me to move on, the real summit is still to come, but not too far.
There is however a view over the back to Mount Tsurugi (except its hidden by fog), which is the most popular mountain on Shikoku. It is strangely very hard to get to Tsurugi with public transport, despite it having a cable car. So I will not be going.
Probably the most colourful view of the day, although it was very grey skies the whole time (but no rain).
And finally, back at the station. Nice light in this shot. I had to wait a while for the train, so went to one of the 3 convenience stores and had an omelette sandwich. As for the train itself, very slow. Single track train line so you spend a lot of time waiting at stations where there are 2 tracks for the train coming the other way to arrive and pass. Also, cash only, but I did buy a return ticket at Tokushima which made it mildly less irritating. OK rant over.
Tokushima on a rainy Wednesday night
It looks like Tokushima is mostly closed on Monday AND Tuesday, as a lot more was open on Wednesday.
Despite my earlier hike, and despite light rain, I did another lap of the 2 main city areas (train station and old city). There were more bright lights and more people. I like it when the streets are wet but it is not really raining, the light reflections are good for photos. And so, I once again managed to get to 40,000 steps, but tonight, there are only 6 photos.
I do not really know what these are for, I don't think it is for a grand opening. The English words do not make sense. This was not the only establishment featuring these kinds of decorations.
The basement area under the station has more than just a few restaurants, there is also some local food and souvenir places.
And so I ended up having dinner in the station basement. A bowl of chicken of some sort. It was really quite nice, and the serve was not too huge.
Tomorrow, NOT a hiking day, but I might go up a small mountain anyway.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2025-11-05 said:
nice hike today
David on 2025-11-05 said:
thanks, and I thought exactly the same
Laura on 2025-11-05 said:
That last shot of the train station is great.




















There are currently 4 comments - click to add
adriana on 2025-11-03 said:
Highway buses in Japan are also great fun, especially the highway rest areas they stop at.
Laura on 2025-11-03 said:
Those are great views from today's hike!
I once took a ferry from Kitakyushu to Kobe Port and have to say it was much cooler than a bus if you're thinking about photography...
David on 2025-11-03 said:
I am fairly sure that a sea is part of an ocean, but not the other way around? According to the map it is Osaka bay.
adriana on 2025-11-03 said:
its not the ocean you are looking at.