Tokyo to Kobe on the bullet train
Now I am in Kobe. A place I have stayed once before, and visited a couple of times. It is pouring with rain, however it is supposed to stop at about midnight, and be back to sunshine tomorrow, so perfectly timed rain.
When I left Tokyo, it was not raining, the train was silent, we went past Fuji and I could see it, soon after, it started to rain.
Even though we were inside a very insulated train carriage, the Japanese people all started coughing and sneezing minutes after the rain started. Including the pathetic cough women do where it is a constant tiny cough about a second apart. I swear it is an ingrained involuntary response in Japanese people to do this. People will think I am just being racist, but I have no one to talk to and nothing to do other than observe others, and the coughs and sneezes per minute increased 10 fold the minute it started to rain outside the train.
Anyway, now I am staying at a Dormy Inn, located in Kobe Chinatown. A lot of the surrounds are undercover so that will be useful this evening.
My early morning walk took me back past the Imperial Palace to check on the cleanliness of the moat.
Here is my train. It is the same as all the trains. It was not even full which was a bit surprising because it is a long weekend in Japan.
Now for my hotel. I seem to be setting a new expectation of three boring hotel pictures per hotel. This one does not have 2 desks, but it does have the weird double entry setup, which seems like a massive waste of space. In the entry the bathroom is on the left, but the wash basin in on the right, in the entry.
Inside the room proper, and the desk area is of very questionable ergonomics. A whole heap of crap in the only work area, and the power points are in a stupid location.
No bath here. Last room had a bath. I declare Ochanomizu Sotetsu Fresa hotel with it's 2 desks to be better than Kobe Dormy Inn.
Sannomiya underground
It was all fun and games until my socks got wet, then I could not wait to get back to my hotel and take them off.
Kobe is probably one of the best places to be stuck in the rain, as long as you are staying somewhere near Sannomiya, and can read a map.
There are 2 levels of undercover, the above ground undercover labyrinth and the below ground labyrinth. I experienced both.
It is also Halloween, but due to the rain I saw almost no evidence of this, I had forgotten about it and then saw a bunch of 'school girls' in blood covered uniforms. I suspect they had used their actual uniforms and were perhaps recent graduates, so I was a bit alarmed at first. However, pretty weak effort, despite everything being coated in orange plastic and fake pumpkins that will be off to the waste incinerator tomorrow, almost zero costumes.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, it might be muddy.
A lot of same same covered shopping and underground shopping photos tonight. This is Motomachi, which basically joins onto my hotel.
I went back up again, still undercover. This is not Motomachi, but seems to zig zag along for a while until it joins up.
I decided my best bet to get into somewhere to eat was to go out into the rain, which is when my socks got soaked through. Definitely best photo of the night.
So it was time to find a place nearby, and I was the only person in the omurice place surrounded by puddles on all side.
Mount Rokko from Ashiyagawa to Arima Onsen
The main hike near Kobe is the rock garden hike. I have done it before. Today is the first day of a 3 day weekend and I thought it would be horrifically crowded but it was actually fine, even the actual rock garden bit at the start.
Last time I got to the top and went along a ridge for a while and came back down towards Kobe. Today I went over the top and down the other side to Arima Onsen, which was a much bigger place than I was expecting. The photos were good, I tried to restrain myself but there are still a few too many to scroll past however....
First, the stats-
14.59km - but don't underestimate the rocky start
4 hours 40 minutes - I ran a lot of the way down
1,081m vertical ascent
1,290 calories burned - the rock climbing bumps this up
Today's hike starts at Ashiyagawa station. It is about 2km from the trail proper. The great thing about this hike is how close it is to the centre of town. No 2 hour train ride today, just 10 minutes.
The road up to the trail is quite nice, and there are a lot of Lamborghini's or similar in the houses.
As mentioned, the start of the hike is as much rock climbing as it is hiking, but it makes for great views.
The view is a bit deceiving today, the actual peak is quite high at just under 1000m, that is not it.
I remembered this from last time, between the peaks is a very fancy golf course. The trail skirts along its edge for a while.
The top of Mount Rokko has not a lot going for it. And not many other people. There is a cable car nearby, and a 'skyway' toll road runs along the top of the ridge. Cyclists like it, maybe they do not have to pay the toll.
The village is much larger than I thought. Steam was coming out of the road in places from the hot springs.
I think this water may have been hot or at least warm. People upstream have to leave their showers running permanently so that the storm water is hot.
And after a hike that did not take as long as expected, here is the train. It goes one stop. Then you change and go a couple of stops, then you change and go through a huge tunnel under the whole mountain range straight back to Kobe. The whole journey back takes only about 20 minutes.
Shinkaichi and Harborland
Tonight I went to many places, and now have over 40k steps again, I talk about steps like I am old, because I am.
First I did a lap around Chinatown, which is where my hotel is situated, but due to the flood last night I had not walked around it yet as it is the only part of town that is outdoors.
Next I wandered 2 suburbs over to Shinkaichi. Definitely the low rent part of town. It also has many many covered shopping streets and a sizeable underground system of interconnected malls and alleys. I worked out as I was leaving that area that it is actually where I stayed last time I was here, I recall that accommodation was hard to come by then for some reason.
Finally I headed to the nearby Harbortown, just briefly for dinner. I will probably go there again on another night.
There is a lot to Kobe, there is even another undercover shopping area two stations further west at Shin-Nagata, who knows I may end up there yet too, maybe if it rains more.
A Chinatown street. Not as big as Yokohama, but not bad. I did not hear much Chinese being spoken though.
Shinkaichi area now, starting with an underground corridor leading from Kobe station, with almost no shops.
A large covered shopping street appeared. Longer than I thought, but mainly Pachinko and food that seemed alarmingly cheap.
There is then this weird underground bit in the side of a hill, which joins onto YET ANOTHER long covered shopping street. What is going on here?
Once I saw this sign I realised it was where I stayed last time. I will do forensic analysis comparing my trip from 2017 to make sure.
Relatively nearby is the more upmarket area of Harbortown, with a series of interconnected indoor / outdoor malls with aquatic themed entertainment, mermaids and ships and such.
Most places had lines, the pork schnitzel place did not, so pork schnitzel time it was. Yes I know it is called katsu.
And finally, a train. I stood in the street making train noises. Tomorrow is not a hiking day, rejoice?
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-01 said:
1200 yen
adriana on 2025-11-01 said:
how much was the dinner?
mother on 2025-11-01 said:
might have to put Arima onsen on my list.
Sorakuen and Akashi Kaikyo
Today was a rest day so I woke up and immediately climbed a hill. Google tells me this was called Suwayama park. It was quite overgrown and a lot of the trails were closed due to landslides, but at the top the view was great.
Next up was the main garden in town, Sorakuen. It practically joins onto Suwayama park and both are within easy walking distance of the main station. Entry was $3, credit card accepted. I think it was worth $3. Apparently it is a fairly recently constructed garden, and the buildings within were moved there from somewhere else. It was nice and quiet though, despite their late 9:30am opening time.
Finally, I headed over to the worlds longest suspension bridge. Except it is not. Turkey now has the longest suspension bridge. Japan needs to update their signage. The bridge joins the mainland with Shikoku via Awaji island, I might go over it in a few days time to get to Shikoku. The great thing about the bridge is it is only about 20 minutes by train from central Kobe at Maiko, and that there are 2 opportunities to spend money on a small admission fee to go up under the bridge and then into the bridge museum. Credit card NOT accepted. This is the first time on this trip I had to use cash for anything. Mildly annoying but the views were worth it.
Sannomiya station has a lot of construction going on. For those not familiar, Sannomiya is the main part of Kobe, Kobe and Shin Kobe are not the main parts. I hope that's clear?
Next I wandered up the hill, where there are a number of houses from the Addams family. This one is a cafe, they all are.
Once I found a way into Suwayama park, and it was the scariest playground I have seen for many years.
The park is on the side of a big hill, once you get to the top, you can climb up the viewing lookout thing, so I did.
After descending through cobweb filled trails to find another way out of the park, here is the entrance gate to Sorakuen garden.
This building however, was moved to this location, and was originally built by an Indian businessman.
The Japanese part of the garden is very nice. The building on the right used to be a river boat of some kind.
After a short train ride, it was time to admire the bridge. Akashi Kaikyo, I won't be typing it's convoluted name again.
Cash is required to go up to the viewing galleries that hang off the bottom of the bridge. I enjoyed looking at the trusses.
Although they have encased it all in mesh, it is open to the sea air and the mesh is spaced wide enough that you can take a mesh free photo.
This is the end of the bits you can walk on. I really wanted to continue all the way across on the service catwalk below. The actual road is above. There is no train over this bridge, which is surprising.
Finally, the museum, which also does not take credit card, is small but pretty good. A lot of info in Japanese only, but also informative pictures. If you like info on steel cables, this is your museum.
Shin-Nagata
Kobe takes the crown from Osaka as king of Shotengai (covered shopping streets).
Tonight I made the 90 minute (on foot) journey to Shin-Nagata to see if there really was another covered shopping street there. There was, and there is also a famous giant robot anime thing. To get there I followed the tracks, which was a bit dark and lonely at times, but I did see 2 scooter police pull over another scooter rider, which was interesting because they rode along on their scooters blowing very loud whistles until the guy pulled over.
Once I got to Shin-Nagata, and it was indeed a sizeable Shotengai, but was mostly closed. A bit different to most of the others in that there seems to be parallel properly indoor malls alongside the outdoor mall on both sides. Then I spotted another one just as I was leaving which sealed the deal, a new king is crowned.
I could have found dinner in Shin-Nagata, but I had pre-planned to take the train back to Sannomiya as I am running out of nights in Kobe and wanted another look. So that I did.
Here is Kobe station, which is not one of the main stations in Kobe as I explained earlier. It had rained for about 10 seconds at this point, that is all the rain there was.
I arrived at Shin-Nagata shopping area via a series of overpasses from the 3 or more stations belonging to 3 different companies that converge in this area.
I forget the name of this thing, but it is huge. I am somewhat surprised I do not see more photos of it on the various websites that all show the same 10 or so photos of Japan.
Bonus Shotengai. I only found this one because I decided to take a different train line back to Sannomiya.
You can also walk up the middle of the areas under the tracks, for a very long way. Useful when it is raining. I dragged my suitcase down here the afternoon I arrived when it was raining.
And then eventually I settled on ramen, high quality, delicious. It was actually Ippudo, which you can find all over the world, I did not even realise until I ordered.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, probably a shorter hike because I have selected a different coastal mountain range.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
David on 2025-11-02 said:
A chain, probably the biggest chain globally
jenny on 2025-11-02 said:
is Ippudo a type of ramen or a chain
jenny on 2025-11-02 said:
nice walk today



















There are currently 4 comments - click to add
mother on 2025-10-31 said:
well big plastic containers must be new emergency prep. Did not know Kobe had all the underground. Will need to inspect. Ijust used to got o Kobe to buy shoes. How was the hambaagu on the omurice? Oh and Motomach basically means down town.
David on 2025-10-31 said:
every hotel room has the big plastic container of emergency water next to the toilet
Laura on 2025-10-31 said:
Dormy inn has public baths and free ramen at 9 pm!
mother on 2025-10-31 said:
why is there a big plastic container next to the toilet.