Mount Tsukuba loop
Probably the second most popular hike near Tokyo is Tsukuba. Much like the more popular Takao, it features 2 cable cars to take you to the top, hence a lot of people go there and 'hike' around the summit ice cream shops.
Even if you extend the hike for as long as possible, it is still not very long, but it is very picturesque, hence the huge amount of photos below.
Before I start describing each one of those with redundant details, the stats, and remember this was the 2nd hiking day in a row, so it was deliberately shorter.
Without further ado -
9.87km
4 hours and 6 minutes, but included a minor detour at the start
1,068 calories burned
805 metres vertical ascent
Bang on 20k steps
Getting to Tsukuba involves a long expensive train (The Tsukuba express) and then a rather long bus ride.
The bus goes from bus bay one, and is generally timed to meet the train, but don't mess about on the transfer, follow the other hikers with haste.
Here's the low down view from where you get off the bus. Silvery clouds today, but also a lot of sun.
The immediate area has a lot of shrines and hotels and shops, but no convenience store, which was very inconvenient. I bought drinks from vending machines.
None of the shops were selling anything suitable for a hiking snack. They were all selling ice creams. The best I could do was wasabi broad beans. Hence I am now full of beans.
The trail starts just to the right of the main cable car station. No cable cars for me, which goes without saying even though I just said it.
There are also a lot of very nice rest areas. This whole area is ridiculously popular on weekends, it was still quite popular on a Tuesday. Public urination without alarmed spectators was challenging.
I waited a while for the cable car to come, it did not. This cable car is a cable pulled tram carriage built on an angle, just like the one in Hong Kong.
Most of the rest areas were also mini shrines of some kind, with locals stopping to do some kind of mini ritual.
Once you get to the summit area, you will realise it is not actually the summit. It is a saddle between 2 summits, with a lot of ice cream shops.
Here is the view you can experience if you were to have an ice cream. There are also public toilets. I had some wasabi broad beans.
The walk up to the first summit, from where I would double back, was probably the nicest part of the hike.
Some almost twilight light shots (does that make sense at all?) looking into the sun, with the clouds and whatever.
There are still some challenging rocky bits to climb despite being a few hundred metres away from the ice cream shop. I am glad they have not erected a proper staircase (yet).
And some more view, without obstructions. It looks like I am up really high due to the prominence, but I am not really, just under 900m.
After I ran past the ice cream shops I took pause to look back at summit number one before proceeding to summit number two. You can see a junior school group sitting in a roped off area on the left.
All the summits have little shrines, this one has a bridge for matchmaking, according to a sign and picture.
I still had to complete the triangle, or more of a rhombus, by walking back to the first cable car line from the bottom of the other cable car line. It was a very quiet very developed path that I had to myself.
Kanda and surrounding areas
It took a really long time to deal with all the photos I took earlier, and by the time I left for my evening meander I was starving.
Therefore I just headed over to Kanda, an area I often stay in, but will not be on this trip, and had Yakisoba.
Kanda is a nice spot, good restaurants, and the station is quiet and on the Chuo rapid line, but then so is Ochanomizu where I am staying, one station over from Kanda. I would say Kanda is just slightly better situated than Ochanomizu because of the surrounding stations.
Now for the exciting news for people that prefer to see anything other than photos of trees and hiking trails (which is everyone I assume), tomorrow is not a hiking day. I have no plan.
The little back street my hotel is on with all the book shops also has made an effort to string lights all the way along the street. It is a very nice spot with a lot of good restaurants.
Here is my yakisoba. Quite flavourless. I burnt my lip on my ramen last night, so it was a no soup night tonight.
I then discovered that this street full of restaurants and maid bars extends nearly all the way back to my hotel.
Now I must research a few options for tomorrow's non hiking day.
Jindai botanical gardens
Rest day today, to celebrate I went to one of the rose gardens of Japan, and it was in full bloom, signs told me so from miles around.
Getting there was a challenge if you are bus phobic. The garden is far from any train, and so my journey started at Chofu station on the Keio line and ended in Mitaka on the Chuo rapid line. The garden is somewhere in between. It is about 23,000 steps including a lap of the garden.
The garden itself is mainly about the roses, the other parts were mainly weeds or dead. The entry fee is about $5 and since they take credit card, that seems perfectly reasonable.
The staff seemed extremely thrilled to see me, chased me around with various brochures, then chased me again with a QR code for a survey which they absolutely pleaded with me to fill out, prayer hands, bowing, everything. I have not filled it out yet.
The first part of the garden is over the road from the main shrine and main garden. It focuses on aquatic plants, and or weeds. Parts of the decking seemed like a law suit waiting to happen, it was making cracking noises while I was walking on it.
The approach to the main temple/shrine featured many ice cream shops. I checked google maps, Jindaiji temple.
Here is the main temple. There is construction going on all around me but I expertly framed the shot to hide it.
Before heading to the rose garden, I first took in the plum grove. It is clearly at its peak, dead and twiggy.
There are maps explaining where to see every kind of rose, and a rose garden annex with new varieties with names yet to be ratified by the world rose organisation. The committee meets every 5 years in April in Bucharest, the last meeting was suspended without any names being agreed following protests from the Albanians. Nice sky.
Most Japanese gardens have an area where grandmas who have stolen plants from the garden and placed them in pots can then sell them to the public. The authorities round them up every few days, some get deported.
After leaving the park, I continued north, and in about 90 minutes, arrived at Mitaka. The special rapid train stops here so it must be a sizeable area. The station is elevated, so please enjoy the view.
The Mitaka station itself is large and busy, not that you can tell from this photo. So that was my day auditing the roses. Everything seems above board.
Shinjuku to Shibuya
Due to hotel prices and my notorious cheapness, I always stay on the east side of Tokyo, which is cheaper than Shinjuku or Shibuya. It is only 15 minutes by train to get from one side to the other, but still I do not seem to go to the two main tourist neon areas as much as I go to Ueno, Kanda, Shimbashi, Akihabara, Ginza and Tokyo itself. That is because I prefer walking a lot, and have usually been on a long train ride to a hike, and prefer no more trains at night. OK geography lesson over.
Tonight I went on the train to Shinjuku, walked a lap there, then walked down to Shibuya past Harajuku, then walked a lap around there observing the Halloween warning signs, then took the subway back to Jimbocho and ate curry.
So more dull facts and geography with no stories or colourful anecdotes, I need to get to bed soon, early start tomorrow.
Shinjuku has quite a lot of new street signs and furniture and paving, despite the station still being a permanent construction site.
These little trucks advertising 'Nights' are everywhere. I do not know what nights is, it is impossible to google, and there's no way I am scanning a QR code on a truck to find out. Statistically, given the location, there is a 9/10 chance it is for an underage sex doll/robot.
There was not a lot of Halloween stuff going on, but this busty mummy with fake boobs was getting filmed wobbling up the street.
Shibuya is not all closed off yet for Halloween, although the sad dog statue is already boarded up. There are signs everywhere asking people not to engage in bad Halloween behaviour, and an advertising cartoon playing on buildings reminding everyone that Halloween is banned and that the cool kids don't do Halloween in Shibuya.
Time to wave goodbye to Shibuya, it is always too busy to eat dinner in these places, I prefer some elbow room.
Instead I fled back across town to Jimbocho and had Hinoya curry, vegetarian, cheap. Now to go to bed so I can get up at 5:30.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2025-10-30 said:
great night photos
adriana on 2025-10-29 said:
the flowers in the glass house are begonias and yes I have been there.
Tonodake loop
Today was my third time going to Tonodake. The last 2 times I continued on to Mount Tanzawa, however today I took a different route up that is a bit longer and turned back at Tonodake.
Last time it was fog and rain and no view and I got soaked. The first time I took some of the best photos I have ever taken, including lots of Mount Fuji. Today was somewhere in between, great views, but Fuji was covered in cloud.
I took way too many photos so brace for view shots that are all basically the same.
However, first the stats -
17.87km
5 hours 39 minutes - I went fast
1,331m vertical ascent
1,569 calories burned - I thought it might be a bit more
31,000 steps
It is relatively easy to get here. From Shinjuku take the Odakyu line to Shibusawa and change to a bus. The bus normally meets the train, my train was 5 minutes late so I had to wait 30 minutes for the next bus, along with the other hikers who missed the same bus which I presume drove off empty. It takes nearly 2 hours from Tokyo though, so factor that in!
Stay on the bus until the last stop, about 15 minutes. It does not really stop anywhere else. This stop is called Okura if you want to find it on a map.
The bridge is normally not part of the hike, but it is today! I will take a different route up that avoids other people.
Bridge from afar. I forget the name of the trail, all the trails here have names, however you follow the stream on a forest road for a while.
This is actually a public road. People drive up here to collect spring water. No cars came but I saw a couple parked.
This one is somewhat active. There were a couple of camper 4wd's parked nearby. This is the end of the road, all hiking trail from this point.
People complain this trail is hard to follow. Nonsense. It is somewhat under developed compared to the main trail, but compared to many other hikes I have done, it is a well marked highway.
Nice scenery all to myself. No bears, but I did come face to face with a deer. I nearly walked head long into him before I realised it was a deer.
Tonodake summit. On weekends it has hundreds of people. You can camp here too. About 10 people today.
New parts of the wooden trail. Not really needed except for the huge number of people that use this trail on weekends cause massive erosion.
The trail exits into farm land, but its only a few hundred metres back to the bus stop and the cool bridge.
Time for the stance, in my running tights and blood red running t-shirt. Yeah. Leeches can't get through my tights.
I had to wait 20 minutes for the bus, so bonus bridge shot it is.
It is now quite late and I have not had dinner. I will stay local this evening, so don't expect many photos later!
Soba in Okachimachi
I thought I would feel more tired after my hike. I did not. So I pushed on and now today is a 40k step day. Good times.
I headed north over a hill and ended up in Okachimachi, just south of Ueno. I will stay there when I return to Tokyo at the end of this trip, in a hotel I have stayed at before. And so I checked it was still there, and it was.
Then I had Soba.
I did not take many photos. I predicted as such.
This is the station I use a lot on this trip, Ochanomizu. It is built over a creek and has had the same excavators parked on the elevated platform for as long as I can remember. My theory is they painted themselves into a corner and do not know how to get them off.
And so I ticked another of the foods commonly found at train stations off my list, soba with vegetable tempura. I got the hot soba and it was very delicious. I just stick all those vegetables into the soup and let the batter fall off and soak up the soup. I have no idea if this is good or bad etiquette.
Anyway, tomorrow I go to Kobe. I have stayed their once before, a long time ago.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2025-10-30 said:
晚饭 好 吃
jenny on 2025-10-30 said:
if the stance gets any wider you'll be doing the splits
Laura on 2025-10-30 said:
Looks like an amazing day. The smooth/hose parts look great for running



















There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2025-10-28 said:
Kanda Grand central Hotel - very convenient place to stay. Will be there again in a few months hopefully.
adriana on 2025-10-28 said:
very nice hike