Mount Tanzawa Okura ridge route
I have done this hike before, and I declared it to be the best hike in all of Japan with the best views.
Today there was no view, it was all fog. So if you want to see what the view might look like, CLICK HERE
I did not take as many photos as I would have if there was a view, but I still took quite a few, so lets do the stats and get too it because I am quite buggered from today's activity.
38,700 steps
19.62km
6 hours 23 minutes
1,702m vertical ascent
2,240 calories burned
I was concerned about the light, as most people take 8.5 hours to do this hike and if I took that long it would have been dark before I got out of the woods, so I set off really fast, which might have contributed to how buggered I feel now.
Here is the bus stop where I got off and from where I will start the hike. Yes a bus. But I managed to get on the first bus after my train arrived. Getting to here was via Shibusawa station on the Odakyu line. It is a 2 hour journey from Tokyo. The bus back was packed to the rafters. I have a recollection that the last time I came here it was almost a punch up to get on the first bus after the train arrived at Shibusawa. No such drama today. This was a very disjointed description, but no one reads this far into each one anyway.
This is a very popular hike. There are a lot of hiking clubs, and also people who do nature conservation work. I am not sure why they need helmets though. This was the brightest the day would be, it just got cloudier and foggier all day, but never actually rained.
I remembered this bridge from my last visit, where the light was great, blue sky etc. Not today. Why am I messing about at the bridge taking photos? I need to get running so I get back before dark!
The path today is almost all stairs until you get over the first mountain, Tonodake, at which point it becomes a lot of mud as you shall see.
There are also a lot of guest houses and cafes on this hike. Most were strangely not open yet, this one was very busy as I came back down, it is the one closest to the bus stop.
I very much remember these raised planks from last time. There are less now, they have been replaced by wooden stairs in a lot of places.
Still not a lot of colour. Last time was blinding leaf colour. I will stop talking about last time eventually.
This is a rare downwards bit on the way up. The hike has a reputation for being an unrelenting sets of stairs. It is hard on your feet / calves because of all the different types of stairs.
I don't think I was ever more than 100 metres away from another hiker today. This meant no bear bell needed. But also difficult to pull off public urination, but I did...
This is the summit of Tonodake. There is a place to spend the night here. A lot of people turn back at this point as on a normal day there is a very good view of Fuji, but the best parts of this trail are between here and Tanazawa.
But still more steps. I actually wish there were a few more of those plank things as my shoes got mud through them.
Nearly at the peak of Tanzawa, where I would turn back and re-trace my steps. There is another bigger lodge to stay at just beyond Tanzawa that serves a famous curry, but I do not have time for that before it gets dark.
They are all using their bunsen burners to boil water for their noodles in here. Time for me to turn back.
Not the worst of the mud, but it was consistently mud for about 2km. I never fell over in it, I saw evidence that some others did.
Back at Tonodake summit. I was 2 hours faster than sunset... I clearly went way too fast on the way up.
After my packed bus ride back to Shibusawa station I had about 10 minutes to kill before the train back to Tokyo came (they come regularly), so here is a photo from the station up into the mountains I had been up and down still covered by cloud.
And for my last pic, waiting on the Shibusawa platform for my rapid express Odakyu train back to Shinjuku.
Quick dinner in Kanda
This is a very small update because I was only out for an hour.
Ordinarily when I get back from hiking very late I go in the shower then straight out to dinner and then do all my photo editing (boosting leaf colour saturation to ridiculous levels) later and split it into 2 posts so that it appears as if made an effort twice when I only sat here doing stuff once for the day.
Well tonight I hung around and edited all my fog shots, added the hilarious comments and uploaded it, then went out to dinner very late (for me). I ate at 8pm.
The problem was, a lot of the restaurants near Kanda station (where I am staying) are still 'smoking ok'. I really did think that had been completely banned now, so I wonder what about those places makes them exempt.
I walked out of a yakitori place once I realised people were smoking, but I guess they probably get more people due to allowing smoking than they are going to lose from me walking away from a possible $8 sale.
Brace for minimal photos.
Here is the entry to the restaurant and bar area by Kanda station. I think this is the 4th time I have stayed in this area. It is very convenient for the Chuo rapid line, which takes me to the mountains.
I recall last time I was here wanting to eat at this ramen place, however since I basically had ramen last night, I decided to look elsewhere. Fascinating stuff this!
And so I ended up with a hamburg steak as they call it. I chose the avocado option (it is under the bean sprouts). These hamburg steaks are always a bit over priced, but the lack of people smoking and lack of a line assisted in my choice.
Tomorrow is definitely not a hiking day!
Shinjuku and Shibuya
It is 25 degrees (celsius) today, that is far too hot. The world is coming to an end for the 7th time (check your history).
What all this means is I have scheduled my remaining days badly. Today should have been a hiking day. Tomorrow is supposed to rain again. So I may have to do some further adjustments to what little time I have left.
Today had to be a rest day, my legs still have no strength in them from yesterday. So I did 30,000 steps around the city, which is easy to do, interrupted by a couple of coffees and store visits. Basically I walked from before 7am until 2:30pm with maybe 30 minutes of coffee breaks.
My eventual destination was all the new things in the Shibuya / Harajuku area. These places all get a lot of press, I have now walked past most of them and been in one of them.
Shinjuku has many great tunnels, but this is the greatest. There is a travelator to the left, but since most people stand still on that, walking is faster.
Japan really takes xmas seriously. Obviously it is known as fat man gift giving kfc day (seriously). Most office buildings will have a display equal to this, with a security guard who now has a job.
Here are the metropolitan towers, you can go up and enjoy the view for free, but not for me today (I have been before).
It was now late enough to head into the area west of the Shinjuku station and check out some ridiculous light fittings and aquariums and fax machines and new ghetto blasters with tape deck and holographic Christmas trees that project a Colonel Sanders on the roof.
There are lots of camera shops, many of them may be parts of the same shop spread across many buildings. My camera is still sold out everywhere. I could sell it for more than I paid.
This is the craziest level crossing anywhere in the world. A train comes every 30 seconds. You have to run to get across. It is right by the Sunroute plaza hotel in Yoyogi, which really should just be renamed the Australian tourist hotel.
Time to take a walk through the Meiji Jingu shrine area, without actually seeing the shrine. I have seen it many times before. This photo came out weird, the tree canopy looked great to the naked eye.
The shrine area has the loudest loud speaker system even encountered. I had to put my fingers in my ears. It makes announcements about smoking, littering, crows, dogs. Not at all peaceful despite the announcement declaring that the area is a peaceful place. I saw some other tourists joke about this while I was thinking it, they even offered up the classic "how's the serenity?" line.
Next up it was time for a brief visit to Yoyogi park. There were a lot of people but none of the silly fun stuff that used to go on here.
A lot of Indonesian indentured servants have the day off on Sunday. Just like Hong Kong. Really, they have been holding protest marches about poor treatment in recent times... just like Hong Kong.
And on the opposite corner is this fancier one. They both have outdoor gardens. It was very busy here, so I did not go in. Also damn hot.
Instead I headed to the brand new Fender cafe. That entire building is Fender guitars new building, complete with hello kitty guitar ad on the screen, more on that shortly.
Inside is a whole lot of expensive guitars that are 1 of only 2 allowable designs, strat or tele. They really stretch this concept to death, releasing 'new' models all the time which are always the exact. same. thing.
This is the only guitar they have that is remotely different. Hidden in a corner as if they are embarrassed by it.
This is what they should be embarrassed by, but no, it is a giant poster in the entry. Am I now cancelled for picking on Billie?
I stood here to take a photo of a ridiculous line down the street for a hamburger store (at least 100 people), when the even more ridiculous thing of westerners driving annoying go karts in onesies went past. There are so many of these go kart groups now they are at risk of smashing into each other. I think I saw 10 different groups in the 1 hour I was in the area.
This star wars toy shop was actually good. A lot of huge things to look at that are not for sale, and they were happy for you to take photos. A lot of shops in this area, including the Fender shop above, are actually not selling anything, they are just trying to outdo each other for band awareness.
Time to head into Shibuya proper. I was here the other day at night for the cancelled Halloween display. Now I am back in blazing sunlight.
I headed up to the fairly new roof garden that looks like it is on an old train line, but I do not think it is. Very busy. A lot of it was also roped off because it looks like it is falling apart, and then another area was roped off for a Sake tasting event.
It was very hot on the roof garden, too hot for rock climbing and skate boarding. So instead I headed back to the subway Ginza line, which because Shibuya station has been under re-construction for 20 years now, was very difficult to find! Signs pointing to Ginza line were wrong. Temporary fencing made many suggested routes impossible. For all the time I have been coming to Japan, the Shibuya station has been a frustrating experience.
Musashi-Koyama Palm Shotengei
Tonight I went to a busy under cover shopping street that is a bit out of the way but thriving, the "Palm" at Musashi-Koyama. It is possibly Italian themed. Why is it called the palm then? These mixed messages are confusing, they need dinosaurs fast, and only dinosaurs.
The location is west of Shinagawa, there is only one subway line to get there and even that is unusual in that it changes names multiple times along it's journey, including but not limited to the Meguro line and the Nambuko line. So if you need to get to the palm, study the map first.
Once you get there, it is a covered shopping street with about 5 supermarkets. A real place for locals rather than tourists. But it was also very hot, not that the temperature was the fault of the shopping street, it is just generally hot. The subway stations are especially hot, but in good news it will be cooler tomorrow and for the rest of the week. In bad news it will rain tomorrow. I cannot believe how old I am, talking at length about the weather when I could have been talking about the Italian themed palm shopping street some more.
Mixed messages. It is the palm, there are Italian flags everywhere, and a lot of giant heads of this guy. Stay on message! They need to get to Fukui fast.
After shrining for a while I decided to head back to the light, Italian flags (light poles) lead the way.
And for my last pic of the night, strap in, this will be peak nonsense. This is a French themed all frozen food supermarket named 'Picard' as in Jean-Luc located in Japan, which is similar to the 'Iceland' chain that is based in England. Yes, I managed to fit 4 country names into a sentence describing bags of frozen peas.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, due to a combo of rain and remaining days in my schedule on this trip.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
jenny on 2024-11-17 said:
So many places in one day.
Odawara castle
Japan is famous for its punctual trains. On this trip this has not been my experience. I have frequently been on delayed trains, delayed local trains, delayed bullet trains, lots of delays. Today was king of delays.
First no train came at all on the platform in the direction I was going for about 40 minutes, then the train I got on slowly moved to the next station about 1km away over the course of about 45 minutes. I think it still went slowly after that too, making me more than 2 hours delayed.
Fortunately, it was not a hiking day, such a delay could actually cancel a hiking day entirely, instead I was going to see the closest castle to Tokyo, which is actually 72 km away at the seaside sizeable town / small city of Odawara.
The castle was good, the views were great, the clouds made for a lot of silver and black looking photos, and the ocean view was... interesting.
Although it was a bit rainy when I woke up, by the time I took this photo while I was standing on a platform with no trains coming (behind me, they were coming in the opposite direction), the rain had almost stopped. The possibility of rain is why today was not a hiking day. The mountains near Odawara, which is where I will go hiking tomorrow, were covered in cloud all day.
Many hours after starting my journey, I was in Odawara, and exited the station on the wrong side.. which lead to me going through the castle backwards.
Here is the castle. Just kidding. It is castle ruins under excavation, and probably future extension to the recently re-created Odawara castle.
There is an actual castle. It is fairly modest, but they have found a measure that puts it in the top 10, stay tuned.
Look! Odawara castle is the 7th highest in the country. I have been to most of these. Osaka is actually number 1? Himeji at number 5 seems wrong, and where is the excellent Matsuyama? I have doubts about how they are measuring this.
The inside of the castle was pretty boring. They had big tv's with ads for things like bike hiring and a local video game tournament, so instead I will focus on the view with 4 x view shots. That is Hakone over there, a place I have never actually been to.
Over there, in the cloud, are the mountains I climbed the day before yesterday including Mount Tanzawa. The one about 2/3 to the right is where I will go tomorrow, Mount Oyama. It looks to be just out of the cloud. I am hoping for clear skies tomorrow.
I paid the extra $1 on the castle admission to get me into the tiny Samurai museum. Here is the whole museum. Could have saved a dollar.
Time to hit the beach. Ahhh, here is a typical Japanese bridge, under a freeway overpass. This is the main beach in this area! It is advertised as a tourist feature of Odawara, known as Miyuki beach.
Tsunmai watch. This area is listed as one most likely to be destroyed by a Tsunami! Not joking, I read that when researching where to go in Odawara.
There are quite a lot of shopping streets around Odawara station. Also a lot of new construction going on.
Monjayaki in Kawasaki
Evidently, it is supposed to be runny.
Monjayaki is the sister to Okonomiyaki, in the family of grill it yourself foods with cabbage. Tonight I went to Kawasaki and somehow ended up in a place that forces you to buy a drink so I could have a runny meal that looks like grilled vomit.
I have been to Kawasaki once before, years ago on Halloween. It is a very big place, I think technically it is it's own city, but it is part of Tokyo between Tokyo and Yokohama. It is very quick to get to, as is Yokohama, because there is a local line from Tokyo that basically only stops at Kawasaki and Yokohama, probably moving a few million people a day between the 3 population centres.
When you exit Kawasaki station, you will be greeted by buskers of the musical variety only, and a bunch of homeless people shaking plastic cups for change - reminding me of Melbourne where I live! But you can then cross the road and wander around the covered shopping streets, or venture out from under the covers into sexy bar territory.
Eventually you might like to head to the gentrified xmas light bedazzled La Cittadella mall where grilled vomit awaits.
Kawasaki station is very large, despite not having a bullet train. There are a few non JR lines going through here as well.
These buskers are named 13c32%, I have no evidence that they actually sing, but they do great detailed intros thanking their fans for commenting on their instagram.
This is La Cittadella, an Italian themed mall with a lot of Indian restaurants and a basketball court.
Last pic of the general area of Kawasaki. Tomorrow is a hiking day. Current predictions are for a sunny day.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
Bruce on 2024-11-21 said:
You have put me off my lunch ...
mother on 2024-11-19 said:
delicious grilled vomit
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
Laura on 2024-11-16 said:
I'm living vicariously through you as my Japan trip was too short - Nov 6-13.
I did have the best hamburg of my life in Matsumoto and would advise you to go there specifically...the shop is called Amiya.
mother on 2024-11-16 said:
I like the fog shots - very atmospheric.