Hinoyama from Gotanjoji temple to Oshio station
A rare second day of hiking in a row due to the dinosaur museum being closed on every second Wednesday. I woke up to unexpectedly wet streets and clear blue skies, then fog, then cloudy, but no rain.
The hike today was not too long, but involved a lot of slippery rocks and ropes, so it still took a while. Let's get to the stats and then explain the convoluted journey with the pics.
19,400 steps (not even 20k!)
11.65km (shortest so far)
4 hours 13 minutes
775m vertical ascent (a lot of rope)
1,292 calories burned.
I took the Hapi line south to Takefu station. I deliberately took a train that got me there 30 minutes before one of only 2 buses for the entire day would come so I would have time to go to the convenience store and find the correct bus stop. Takefu looks like a big enough place, 2 small department stores attached to the station, but no convenience store nearby. Nothing open at all nearby, no bakery, nothing. So I had to do a quick run through the streets to the nearest convenience store to get back to the bus stop in time, made it with 4 minutes to spare, with a lot of jaywalking (jay running).
The bus came right on time, and I was the only person on it for the entirety of my journey. So it may only run twice a day, but perhaps even that is 2 times too many.
But then I got off at Goanjoji temple (famous for cats as you shall see), and what was there 100m past the bus stop? A large roadside family mart convenience store. I consumed a bonus ice coffee and reflected on my unnecessary run through the streets of Takefu. But at least I got to see most of Takefu.
Anyway, the temple is nice enough, nicest of the many I saw during the day, but that is not why people come here.
This place is basically a free outdoor cat cafe. All of the cats are very friendly and will not run away from anyone. None of them wanted to fight me, which was a bit disappointing.
Bonus cat. I ate a muesli bar here, and they all came running over as soon as I pulled it out of my bag. But they all look pretty well fed so they got none of my muesli bar.
It was only about 1.5km from the cat temple to the start of the actual trail, up this nice road through a 'post town'. At least they claim to be a post town.
I saw 3 other people on the way up, but then I came down via the non preferred path and saw no one at all.
First view of the day. There was a bit of fog around so I made sure to get some shots from lower down. At this point the summit was still in fog.
The last km or so to the top was all steep slippery rocks like this, often with a much appreciated rope. It was slow going.
There were actually a few little buildings around the summit area. Unlike yesterday I had somewhere to sit and eat my calorie mate BLOCK.
The path down was lonely, but no less colourful. Also no less slippery, a lot of the time there was a rope.
Another rest area. No other people, but plenty of signs that this hike is generally popular. No spider webs.
Bottom shrine. The slipperiest of all paths was a flat section along here. I did not fall over all day, but almost did here.
Looking back at the mountains, the old lady you can see here had no teeth but seemed very happy to see me. She had an excited conversation to herself with me.
I made it back to Oshio station with time to spare. I should point out that today's trains and buses all took IC card.
After 2 hikes in a row, I guess tonight will be a shorter outing, but I guess that was probably going to be the case in a small town like Fukui anyway.
Fukui east of the station
Tonight I walked some distance on the side of town with nothing on it. I found a supermarket and some overpasses for some long exposures.
The supermarket has dinosaurs on it, because everything does. For me, tomorrow is the day, tomorrow I will go to the dinosaur museum.
Clearly the dinosaur museum is the main show in town, and remember it is actually nowhere near here, it is 31km away in Katsuyama. The best evidence of dinosaur museum domination I have found so far is that not only was there no one in the station this evening, but the Burger King was closed, and on the door was a sign with a sleeping dinosaur which I translated, and it said they too are closed on the 2nd and 4th Wednesday of the month.
Of course I was not wanting to go to Burger King, instead I decided to give pasta another go, this time without cream.
A great feature of Japanese supermarkets is that they often have this little eating area with a microwave, to heat up and eat the food they sell at the deli section in the store. I did this in Nikko once.
The top floor of the Seibu department store has a small restaurant floor. About 8 restaurants, half of them are specialist crab places like everything around here.
So I decided on pasta. I made absolutely sure I got a non cream variety. Tomato and eggplant. Not bad.
Tomorrow, dinosaurs (no hiking).
Fukui prefectural dinosaur museum
First of all, prefectural is not actually a real word, dictionaries list it as a bastardisation of English commonly used in Japan.
Secondly, today was the worst farmers smoke I have ever experienced. I am so glad I made sure to separate my recycling into 3 bins at the cafe - yes I know this is a joke assholes do, but also, farmers need to stop burning plastic mixed with dead leaves, old tyres and asbestos. I could smell smoke inside the train for the entire journey.
The museum itself is over 30km out of Fukui city, first you take the Echizen railway to the last stop at Katsuyama. No one gets off at any of the 20 stations between Fukui and Katsuyama, except me, 2 days ago. Anyway, you then transfer to a dinosaur themed bus, that is waiting at the station and coordinated for the arrival of the train. The bus is cash only, 300 yen ($3). Everyone that got off the train got on the bus. It is 5km or so to the dinosaur museum, so I could walk it but it was too smokey.
The museum itself, has a lot of dinosaurs, and children with whooping cough.
I arrived at the museum, and instead of going in, immediately climbed up onto the roof. It is your standard masculine set of 2 giant balls.
The staff were aggressively helpful, trying to make me get a guided tour device, forcing me to take a map I would not look at even once, and when I tried to not go down the escalator to the start of the preferred route, I thought they may actually sound an alarm. Anyway, here is part of the main dinosaur hall. It is very large but does not photograph well.
And even more. The website says you need to pre book a ticket and time and all sorts of other nonsense, I think this is a legacy of when they first grand reopened during covid, now you can just buy a ticket and go in, as long as it is not the 2nd or 4th wednesday of the month.
There is a restaurant, and huge gift shop of course. The restaurant meals are dinosaur themed, dinosaur shaped chips with curry sauce, that sort of thing.
Here is Katsuyama station and the dinosaur bus. Do you think the station is named after the ubiquitous pork schnitzel?
I had 20 minutes until the single carriage train arrived to take me back to Fukui, so here is a smokey shot up into the bigger mountains, apparently this is where SkiJAM! is, whatever that is. There were buses taking people there, but I am very sure there is no snow.
I was glad it was not a hiking day, I might have suffocated. So now I have achieved dinosaurusness, prefecturally.
Fukui station area again
Tomorrow I go back to Tokyo, there will be more food options there.
Tonight I did a lap of concentric circles around the Fukui station area, before eating a very interesting dinner inside the station. I have now completed a full audit of the streets within a 1 mile radius of Fukui station.
Have I learnt all there is to learn about dinosaurs? Probably not. Have I learnt all there is to learn about marketing your city using dinosaurs? Definitely.
I might complain about the lack of places to go at night, but I found plenty to do during the day around (but not in) Fukui. Both my hikes were excellent, and the dinosaur museum, although over hyped, was worth the $10 entry fee and interesting train/bus journey.
I found a little small arcade area behind the cinema that I had not seen before. The shop with the flags is secondhand clothes. There are a lot of secondhand clothes shops here.
I went back to the new mini eating place with the exposed duct work. I could of easily had dinner here, but I wanted something that was not part of the standard Japanese food offering, and I had already had the taco rice.
There is a tram network as I mentioned. It appears to go to nowhere in particular. Here is one of the trams. Disappointingly modern.
There are not many places to eat outside of the station, but there is an umbrella shop, open late on weeknights.
And for an unknown reason, the post office has a display in the window of all the instant curry mix boxes someone has collected, plus dinosaurs of course.
And here is my dinner. From the Chinese place in the station. It is mushroom and pork in starch sauce, poured into a ridiculously hot cast iron pot filled with burnt rice crispy squares. Really, the rice was just like rice crispy squares, you can see a bit of one in the top left of the above pic. There were a few of them in the bottom of the hot pot, the starchy sauce with mushrooms and veg gets poured over and they soften up and break apart. It was really delicious. I have not had anything like it before.
Tomorrow, trains and Tokyo.
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mother on 2024-11-14 said:
Glad you liked Fukui. See you soon all going well.
Fukui to Tokyo on the shinkansen
Long train ride day, bare minimum photo effort day.
I started my day in Fukui, at the dinosaur themed station, where I wrote a personal goodbye note to the 136 dinosaurs located in and around the station.
I then boarded a bullet train, half full, and back tracked to Kanazawa where I had already been, stayed onboard and went all the way to Tokyo. This takes about 3.5 hours.
This path is generally called the Hokuriku arch, which ordinarily includes Kyoto. On my trip I included Nagoya instead, and bypassed Kyoto/Osaka.
Anyway, now I am back in Tokyo, for 7 more nights, in a hotel I have stayed in before in Kanda, where I am eating a mandarin sandwich, and acting surprised that it is raining lightly out the window.
I was up on the Fukui platform too early so as usual, wandered down to the end to take a photo, which resulted in a security guard following me with great concern.
I will skip forward now to the oh so exciting hotel room shots in Tokyo, this is the Sotetsu Fresa Inn Kanda. This is actually a single room, with large double bed (around the corner). It is as big as what some places market as a double room though. The desk situation here is excellent.
The bathroom is fine, I prefer the shower with the closing solid door rather than a shower curtain so I can take control of the nozzle which has more pressure than a fire hose and clean the back of my knees and in between my toes without fear of spraying water onto my bed / laptop. You really do have to be careful with this, more than once I have turned a Japanese shower on and the pressure has been enough to lift the shower head attached to a hose clean out of the holder, where it then violently dances about like if you were teasing an angry brown snake with a stick.
And here is my lunch/afternoon tea. A mandarin and whipped cream sandwich. I prefer the kiwi and strawberry one, but they did not have it.
Now to check for rain, I have big hiking plans for tomorrow.
Asakusabashi to Asakusa
Tonight I am back in Tokyo, so I had about 500,000 choices for where to eat. Almost none of them had dinosaurs.
Also, I discovered by accident that there actually 2 parts to Asakusa.
Everyone has been to Asakusa, where the temple / shrine is, it is generally quiet at night as the tourist shops all close early on the walk up to the temple, but there are a lot of places there to eat.
So I set off on foot from Kanda, as it is really not too far, but it is about 1.5km further than I at first thought.
There are actually 2 parts of Asakusa, both with a lot of train stations and places to eat, but only one of them is the temple area.
The JR Asakusabashi station is actually quite south of the main part of Asakusa that most people would know about. I went there first and none of it was familiar, because it was not the right part of Asakusa. Who is lost already? So I referred to google maps and followed the river to the shrine and realised I was in the wrong place entirely. Not too worry, the walk between the two areas was interesting and chock full of restaurants to choose from.
This is Asakusabashi station area. The JR line runs overhead. There are actually a lot of shops around here even if it is not apparent in this photo. I enjoyed getting the overhead train line in the shot.
Also artisanal bookshops. Yes this really is a bookshop. Now ask yourself why bookshop is acceptable as one word, but if I were to type say, umbrellashop as one word you would think I was a lunatic.
And for my dinner, this does not look like much but it gets a very high rating on review sites. The noodles are hand made Lanzhou style in the store, which seems to get reviewers excited. It is dan dan noodles, which is a Chinese style dish, but the flavour was much more Japanese ramen than you would expect dan dan mian served in China (or Australia) to be. Still it was very good.
Now I must go to sleep, tomorrow is an early start to a long hiking day.
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jenny on 2024-11-15 said:
lots of hidden areas in Asakusa and a Mr Donut!
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mother on 2024-11-13 said:
nice hike. Small town. Nice pasta