Nagoya to Kanazawa on 2 different trains
Now I am in Kanazawa, where I have been once before. My hotel will take a bit of explaining but we will get to that.
Getting here was 2 different trains, first the limited express Shirasagi from Nagoya to Tsuruga, and then the new Shinkanesen on the newest extension from Tsuruga to Kanazawa.
As you shall see, on the Shinkansen I had the entire carriage to myself, so the line beyond Kanazawa is not very popular. Eventually this will join up with Kyoto and replace the limited express Thunderbird service, which I took last time I was in Kanazawa.
Anyway, the journey was not too long and really not eventful in any way, Tsuruga station has no shops even though it is a transfer hub at the moment, I guess they know those days are numbered as soon as the line is extended further towards Kyoto. Now for the worst pics of this trip, but I predict people will be fascinated by the hotel room layout for some strange reason.
This is the Shirasagi limited express train. It looks a lot like the N'EX train that goes from Narita airport. It does not go very fast, but the line is probably not up to it anyway. I have ridden on the line it goes on before between Gifu and Mount Ibuki, which is still closed due to a landslide. I tried to climb it again last year but could not due to the same landslide.
Inside the limited express, which was busier than the Shinkansen, but I still got an empty seat next to me.
Here is the view from Tsuruga station. I had about 30 minutes between trains and intended to go and walk around outside the station, so I exited on one side where there was very little to see, and there was no way to get back to the other side without reentering the station, which required me to validate my ticket for the next leg of my journey, thus meaning I was now trapped in the station.
As mentioned above, I got a whole carriage to myself. That is my bag on the rack. Is this a brand new train? It looks old fashioned on the inside.
After arriving in Kanazawa I went to a nearby Anderson bakery for lunch, and made the guy behind me in the line furious because I got the last available table. I am fairly certain he was saying unkind things about me to the cashier.
And now for my hotel. The bed is huge, the room is quite large, why is there a fold up desk there? And what is that sink doing there? There is no actual desk to sit at, weird. This is not the same as the picture on the booking site, I always check for a work desk. So now I am sitting on the end of the bed using the fold up desk, but now for the sink mystery....
And then the shower / full size bath is its own room. The shower has nozzles going in every direction, but floods the entire room, and also comes with some sort of chair like they tortured Daniel Crags testicles with in one of the bond movies. I am kind of frightened to take a shower.
Oh, and the hotel name is Hotel Forza. About $100 AUD per night.
Kanazawa Katamachi district
Kanazawa is a city of 3 halves. The station, the market area where I am staying, and Katamachi by the old bridge. There is no train or tram between them, but it is not too far to walk, maybe a kilometre between each. There are a few new big modern stores in the main Katamachi area from when I was last here. Also there are tourists. Thousands of western tourists.
I saw basically no tourists in Nagoya but they come here in droves and a lot of them are German, especially in my hotel. They all wear the same big red jacket like they are here to rescue people buried in an avalanche. Some of them are old, old enough that I wonder if they are in Japan trying to get the old band back together for a third try. Am I cancelled yet?
Tomorrow is a hiking day, I have had to change my plan to go to a smaller hike tomorrow because the main one had a bear and cub sighting last weekend at the start of the trail! I will probably do that hike on Sunday when there will be more people around to scare the bears away.
My hiking schedule is not ideal because it means I will have to go to the garden that all the tourists come here for on Saturday, the busiest day. So you have Germans invading a Japanese garden to look forward to the day after tomorrow.
Before wandering the streets of Katamachi I decided to explore a shrine up a hill in the dark. It was pretty good too. Also it was cold, I probably should have had my jacket on, only 9 degrees celsius. I wish the world would settle on one measure of temperature so I don't have to be confused about celsius / centigrade and then type it so that people do not think I mean failheit.
Behind the shrine is a nice bridge across to the castle ruins park. I will probably go there on Saturday.
I remembered the back alleyways, there are some more alleyway-ish than this, further exploration required.
I headed into big boss guitar store, which is normally not something I bother to photograph, but those 2 black headless guitars are Schecters, and I never saw a headless Schecter before, so now I need to investigate. Also the headless white strandberg on the ground front centre at accidental kicking height is about $4280, so don't kick it.
And for dinner, the unhealthiest dinner of all! Katsu curry. It came from a funky diner that gets a great score on google maps, and it was really nice, but deep fried chicken on top of curry on top of rice is probably 3 days of calories!
Hopefully no bears tomorrow.
Hodatsusan from Menden station
As I mentioned above the main hike in this area had a confirmed bear and cub sighting recently. So today I decided to go somewhere else and leave the bear infested trail for Sunday when there will be a lot more tasty hikers for the bear to choose from.
Hodatsusan is a small mountain, but it has a great view of the central alps, it is also not too far on the train, and I saw no mention of a bear on recent reports by hikers on the Japanese language only Yamap site.
The train to get there does need a bit of explanation, it starts off from Kanazawa as a line with a complex name but then becomes the Nanao line, which is still impacted by last years earthquake. This means it is running with less carriages, less often, and there is a guy in high vis riding the train next to the driver who I presume at some point after I got off coordinates safe passage through a busted up area of track... but that was not the tricky part of the journey for me.
Every single station along the journey except Menden, where I got off and later back on again, has the IC card scanners on the train platform. At Menden you must touch off on the train itself, do not forget! And then when you get back on at Menden remember to touch back on. I have stuffed up doing this before somewhere else, and when that happens you have to go to a manned gate, explain how you stuffed up to someone that does not speak English, and then hopefully he will do something to your card with a 1970s computer so it will work again.
Anyway, the hike was short, not too high, great weather, good views... now for the stats.
29,600 steps
18.92km
5 hours and 6 minutes
1,082 calories
760m vertical ascent - but some is still pretty steep.
It is not often that photo of the day on a hiking day has nothing to do with the hike, but today is that day. Here is Kanazawa station with great light.
The view towards Hodatsusan from Menden station. It looks tiny from here. It is about 3km to the start of the trail from the station, I include those km in the stats as I figure most people that read this are going from the station and not driving. Note that the station is literally in farm land.
Here is the start of the trail. Note the public toilets, vending machine, and big parking area. Yamap suggests these are all recent additions, you will see why soon.
The start of the hike has the normal bear sign. These are everywhere. These are not the same as the recent bear sighting signs, which will be temporary and have a date on them.
Now to explain the title for today, slow moving bear shield. I had a hiker in front and a group of 3 behind me. They were very slow. Ordinarily I would bound past. Today I decided to adjust my pace to stay in between them for probably 2/3 of the way up. At that stage I saw a couple of guys coming back down, and neither of them had bear bites, so I decided to drop my slow moving shield.
The trail flattened out near the top and became a bit autmumn-y but I am yet to experience the hypnotic state of leaf colour delirium on this trip.
Very near the top you can get off the path and go up the driveway to the weather station / tv broadcasting antennas. I chose not to, it seems most people do as the path up until this point was very well maintained but from here on became very overgrown. It was only for a few hundred metres.
But there was a very good view to the distant central alps. What looks like cloud on the horizon there is actually big mountains. I have climbed the biggest of them previously, Tateyama. You can see the peaks now have a bit of snow.
The driveway down from the summit was actually very nicely yellowed. There were a few people around this area.
A few hindered metres down the mountain and there is a new area of development, including this lookout.
This is why there are toilets and a vending machine at the bottom. It is brand new, and you can drive up here too. This is not a shop or anything, just a rest area that is free and unattended. Today I had it to myself. A lot of people hike up here on weekends from where I started from. For a reason I do not know the structure is called the Ryugu castle.
First I went down a forest staircase to this lake area. I have seen some stunning autumn pictures online, not today. The lake appears to be called, Oike.
And then it was time to fast walk / jog the 3km back to the station, the train after the one I got does not come for 90 minutes. I made it with 5 minutes to spare. This is Mendan station, it is unattended, and as mentioned above at length, no IC card scanner, scan as you board the train.
Kanazawa station area
Somewhere above I typed something about Kanazawa having 3 main areas, last night I went to the main main one, I am staying in one and the station is the other main area. So tonight I went to check out what was going on in, under, over, and around the station.
When in a smaller city, it is important to remember that many old big department stores close early, even on a Friday night, the exception to that rule will be any that are attached to a big station, especially a bullet train station. Tonight proved this to be correct, the stores near my hotel closed at 8, where as the station stores close at 10.
That is all pretty matter of fact, so then I had the worst dinner of this trip to celebrate.
Tomorrow is peak tourism day. I will do everything tourists are supposed to do.
This is the Omicho market. Mostly closed at night of course, but there are a few raw fish restaurants inside, mostly with lines of people waiting to get in.
Underneath the main station is... the main station underground square. Really it is called that. Not much goes on down here. I could not even tell what the exhibition was for as the security guard was looking at me threateningly. There was also a free to play grand piano and the girl playing it was ridiculously good.
The escalators coming up from the underground main station square have the very dangerous flat bit in the middle where the steps go flat. The temptation is walk along the flat bit, but it is hard to judge when they will re-stepify, which will ultimately result in your untimely doom.
Behind the station, not much was going on. Along this street there were some temporary tents set up so I was about to go over and investigate when I saw that they are sponsored by bacardi, so at that point I knew I was not interested. That's how sponsorship works!
I decided to delay my hormone treatment and head up to the 6th floor of a department store instead. And they had at least 20 restaurants to choose from. Many had lines. I wanted okonomiyaki, but the line was huge. My choices came down to omurice or pasta.
Having already had omurice, I chose pasta. I chose wrong. What I got looked nothing like the picture. The picture was thinner pasta, a lot more mushrooms, no visible cream, and a grilled hamburg steak on top with grill lines. What I got was a boiled meatball floating in a heap of cream with a few strands of big thick pasta and almost no mushrooms. It tasted fine, but I left a sea of cream.
Now I will look up what time the garden opens and go to bed so that it can be morning as soon as possible and I can go to the amazing famous garden full of tourists.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
Brian on 2024-11-08 said:
Interesting photos David. Dinner looks a bit sus. Not to sure what's been dropped on top of the pasta.
mother on 2024-11-08 said:
Unusual for your dinner not to look exactly as the plastic model.
mother on 2024-11-08 said:
ryugu - jo is the supernatural underwater castle of a dragon according to wikipedia
Kenroku-en and Kanazawa castle ruins
Today I went to 3 places. I have been to 2 of them before. The coin laundry I went to I have not been to before.
The entire reason millions of westerners come to Kanazawa on their second visit to Japan is to go to the Kenroku-en garden. Yes, I mean exactly that, it is the most popular second visit to Japan location in all of Japan by a considerable margin. I think I waited about 4 visits to go to it, years ago, and now I have been a second time.
It is ok.. but I do not get as excited for it as everyone else. I think I have been to gardens just as good that I do not even remember the name or location of. The good news is that it is cheap to get in, less than $4. In further good news it opens at either 5am or 8am. If you go at 5am you must leave before 8am, I think the 5am entry is for people with tripods. I was waiting at the gate at 8am and was 2nd in, and for the first hour there were no tour groups at all.
By the way, the only tour groups with the flag and loud speaker I saw were German and Japanese.
After the garden, the next location, connected by a footbridge is the castle ruins. There is no castle. There are some storerooms as they call them that might be old. Shoes off to enter. I did not. The grounds are really nice though.
And then finally, time for the laundry. I forgot my camera so no photos of washing machines. Every time I go to a laundry I re try on all my clothes to figure out how much they shrunk. My top tip is never ever use the laundry in your hotel, go to the proper one and use their huge machines and dryers made for futons on very low heat.
That is the only person in front of me to get into the garden. I timed it for 8am perfectly, just as the gate was unlocked. There are a few gates but for the first hour or so I got many photos with no other people, and the early (or late) sunlight is the best light.
The trees are already being tied up for winter. They should delay it a couple more weeks. Last time I was here there was an army of men on ladders doing stuff.
The garden is elevated, one of the features that apparently makes it one of only 3 'perfect' gardens in all of Japan. Really, that is it's claim. Anyway, the view is pretty good.
It was the last one. OK, I exited a different way to go get a coffee before the castle ruins. Here is the wall.
The sun was still low even when I got back to the castle. You cannot enter this area. And now that I think of it, there are many interesting parts within the garden you cannot enter either, kind of frustrating as all the elevated mounds were off limits even though there were paths over them.
Back near my hotel now, and it is time to check out the Omicho market, at peak capacity. A lot of different crabs. Too crowded, I could not wait to leave.
And then after successfully washing all my clothes, I found the street behind my hotel is a long traditional shopping street, complete with stalls setup to extract money from unwanted tourists that the entire town relies on for it's survival.
Last pic of the day is the shrine at the centre of the shopping street. You could buy twisted potato on a stick from here. They set up tables for you to sit and eat it, because in Japan foods designed to be eaten while walking must never be eaten while walking. So really then, what is the appeal of things like twisted potato on a stick? Might as well eat something on a plate.
Katamachi bar district
The other night I went to the main main area of Katamachi and remembered there were back alleyways that are very interesting.
Tonight I went back looking for them.
There was a lot of construction going on in the general vicinity of where the alleyways pictured below are, and so I suspect the ones I saw last time are now gone. I have a vivid memory of a couple of record listening dens with an old guy and a hifi system and a heap of records and not much else. I could find no such thing tonight.
What I did find was a bunch of 3 seat bars and little restaurants. It was all very interesting, but possibly gentrified. The areas with the signs all the same monochrome hue kind of give off the vibe that someone is coordinating it all rather than letting the shacks fall over or catch fire after going into disrepair so that they can then be replaced by something new.
This area is what I was mentioning above, all the signs are similar, it does not appear to have developed organically over 100 years.
On the hunt for my dinner and a lot of places have big lines. Although it is not shown here, this line goes around the block and is probably 100 people long. Surely that is many hours wait? I have no idea what kind of food is inside.
Eventually I headed back to the underground restaurant area near my hotel, and some places were closing at 7, restaurants! So my choices were limited and I ended up having this thing that they called special hashimoto rice beef. Which was basically omurice with a teriyaki rather than curry glaze with a small steak on top. I opted to get the token gesture salad. It was actually pretty good, much nicer than last nights pasta.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, but nothing too long, if I don't get lost.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2024-11-09 said:
老 城区 非常 漂亮 和 有 的 历史
jenny on 2024-11-09 said:
I agree that Kenrokuen is not the best garden in Japan. It's really nice but there are plenty more that are not as well known.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
traveller5 on 2024-11-08 said:
I stayed at the Forza last year. Our room was compact but well designed. I would have freaked out if the shower was like yours.
adriana on 2024-11-07 said:
You are right, your hotel is a bit weird. I checked their website and most of the rooms don't seem to have desks even though they are very spacious by Japanese standards. I also don't remember Kanazawa having so many shops.