Virgin Australia to Cairns
Right now I am sitting in the Melbourne Virgin Australia lounge having some fruit toast as there is no food on my flights today. 10 hours of no food and nothing but water on offer.
There is also no lounge in Cairns, which is my stopover spot for an hour or so after a 4 hour flight from Melbourne. So no food today, just fruit toast and then sippy cups of sneezed on water.
Getting to the airport was already a source of adventure. I take the Skybus because I am a notorious tight ass and I do not like getting in some dudes car who downloaded an app and 10 minutes later became a qualified professional driver. Having said that, the Skybus still has no seat belts, despite travelling along the freeway at 100kmph. I digress (already).
The bus leaves about once every 15 minutes, it pulled up just as I got there and a guy got on ahead of me, there were not many people around. So we might have to wait a few minutes for a few more people and for the proper departure time. Anyway this normal looking guy starts ranting about how he is late and why the hell is the bus not leaving etc. Eventually he goes downstairs and starts abusing the driver and ticket checker outside and then gets back on the bus and demands it leave immediately. They tell him he is now not going to travel on the bus and he should get off. So he refuses of course. I stuck my head down the stairs to see what is going on and he was standing in the door not letting anyone else on while continuing to argue, 'if I cant go on the bus no one can'. Great.
Anyway after about 5 minutes the transit cops came and the guy sprinted off when he saw them. I watched him running away out of the front of the upper deck bus window and he was looking over his shoulder running and veered into the wall. Good times.
Now for some more fruit toast, not sure if I will have time to type more nonsense from Cairns or even when I arrive in Tokyo tonight.
The traditional departure photo, taken the evening before departure. What is this? It is the view of the new feature from my apartment window. Scaffolding. A few years ago they added 3 more levels to my building, and wisely constructed them out of highly flammable petrol soaked plastic. So now they have to rip that down and rebuild it. I predict the scaffolding will be there for a year. I get to watch hi vis guys swearing and smoking all day.
This is just a space filler photo really. The Virgin Lounge in Melbourne. At least you can get a quiet seat in here, unlike the Sydney one in which you generally have to fight 10 guys just to get a cup of warm tap water. It is a good thing I can sit far away from others as the roof structure in here really helps amplify the sounds of everyone's horrific expulsions of holiday ruining pathogens.
And here are some jets (photographed through a blurry window), including mine. I will go all the way to Japan on a tiny 737 Max death plane supplied by the fine folks at Boeing who no longer tighten bolts.
Cairns airport and onboard VA77
In a rare thing, right now I am onboard Virgin flight VA77 bound for Tokyo Haneda and I have internet. So I can type some more of this nonsense now.
For about an hour it seemed like I may not be getting to this point at all today, as the plane did not leave Melbourne for an hour beyond scheduled departure time as we sat onboard while an engineer seemingly worked on the captains seat. This may sound frivolous, but recently an airliner nearly crashed when the pilot's seat unexpectedly slid forward and his fat stomach smashed into the controls pitching the plane into a steep dive.
The engineer left and we pushed back seconds later, and tore out to the runway in Melbourne faster than any flight I have ever been on, with no stopping at the runway threshold or anything, just a 90 degree drift turn onto the piano keys before we then seemed to climb all the way to cruising altitude at near full power, at which point they announced that we will be making the connection in Cairns to Tokyo. It was never really in doubt as half the people on the flight to Cairns are continuing to Tokyo.
The flight was quite full and as we were about an hour out a guy nearby started rolling smokes and putting them in his mouth, by the time we landed he had 3 in his mouth ready to run off the plane.
As for Cairns airport, the domestic side is busy, the international side less busy than ever, with just one cafe. I barely had time to drink a litre of water, shotgun a coffee and eat half a $12 sandwich and it was time to board.
Which brings me to here, typing this, on a plane that is largely full of Japanese people. I have a row to myself again just like the last time I took this flight. Soon we will fly over a hurricane. These are short sentences. No one near me is sick. The photos below are terrible, but they fill a spot on a page.
Here is the little 737 max 8 that will take me to Japan. Again this is shot through blurry tinted glass. You can tell it is one of the new faulty Boeing's by the wingtips that are overly complicated and prone to failure.
This is basically, all of the international terminal at Cairns airport. The cafe must hate it when the connecting flight is delayed as mine was, there was basically no time for people to get any food. I was almost first off and barely had time to inhale half a sandwich and burn myself on a terrible expensive coffee.
LOOK AT MY COOL MASK! I am the only person wearing one, including all the Japanese people. I guess they are going home and do not care as much, perhaps they wore one on the way here. Now to sit back and wait for the tiny drip feeds of water they offer on this 7.5 hour flight. They bring the communal bottle around maybe 3x if you are lucky.
Arriving at Tokyo Haneda
On my trip to Korea earlier this year you may recall that I travelled all day and arrived at my hotel near midnight only to find that they had decided to give my booking to someone else, despite me telling them I would be there at midnight and the hotel replying with a confirmation message stating that would be no problem and taking my money... tonight arriving in Tokyo I had no such issue, I checked in at a machine and spoke to no one.
The flight from Cairns to Tokyo Haneda was good, as mentioned above I had internet basically the whole way. I also had a whole row of seats. I also drank all the water they offered me but it was not enough.
Sadly Japan has still mastered convenience with extra steps at the airport. The Haneda experience was a bit better than last year, but I still spent over an hour in the immigration queue, the QR code made no difference at all, it is all the same huge line. Then in the baggage collection area the QR code is actually worse, as you have to go to yet another kiosk and take yet another photo, where as people with paper do not seem to have to do that.
My hotel is in Shimbashi, I have been here a few times before as it is right by Tokyo station, but I have not stayed in a hotel here before. Since it was not quite as late as I expected I found time for a 30 minute wander before returning to my tiny hotel to type this.
Tomorrow is probably a short hiking day, there is actually rain forecast! I am not used to rainy days on my holidays the last few years.
OK, bed time finally.
Hotel room photo lovers rejoice, for your time is now. This room is small and dated and cheap. But the bed is big.
And then as mentioned, time for a wander. A nearby street. Lots of people around, but then it is Saturday night. Some girls had actual prices stuck to themselves, and they were not all the same price. I wonder how it feels to be the discounted one standing next to the premium product?
And for my last photo of a long day with the rare 3 updates, here is a restaurant. With more school girl quasi sex workers standing out the front selling octopus.
Ome hills and Mount Raiden
Time to break out the bear bell. It will be my constant dinging companion from here on.
I selected a shorter hike to break in my new shoes and let me swelling feet / legs / joints / head unswell from 10 hours of air travel. Also I have decided that unswell is a word, this is how you can tell this is not written by AI.
The hike was from Ome station to Ikusubata station, it was only about 3.5 hours, 20,000 steps and 11km. There was not much view, and no bears. There were a lot of other people, it is Sunday and the Ome hills trail is very popular with trail runners.
In other news, it is also election day in Japan, the unification church scandal that got rid of the last guy and executed the guy before him threatens to get rid of the new guy who has been in power for only 30 days because of further revelations about the huge slush fund the party uses to buy supernatural powers from Korean false prophets. I always seem to go to wherever there is an election. At least this time I have largely dodged the loudspeaker blaring trucks that circle the city 24/7 for 6 months prior to voting day.
First up, I went looking for early coffee, on a Sunday. Impossible. Instead I boarded the train to cross the city to Ome where it was 8am by the time I arrived which means coffee was then available. No coffee before 8am on Sunday in Japan! I will get elected on changing this to 6am.
I changed trains at Tokyo station, and enjoyed some liminal space all to myself. OK, apparently liminal also is not a word, despite liminal space being the cool thing for kids to say these days.
Here is Ome station. If you continue along this line you will get to Okutama via Mitake. It is a popular route on Sunday's for hikers, they run a couple of holiday special rapid services that only stop 4x from Tokyo to Ome. These are not limited express trains, just regular price ones that stop at only a couple of major stations. Ome is the very start of the valley with mountains on both sides, hence it is the start of the Ome hills route.
No need to go to Fushimi Inari. This is where I joined the trail, although there are many places you can start from.
I picked a few tasty mushrooms to snack on all day. Maybe I could send some back to a remote church community in Australia to commit mass murder with?
It seems I chose a lesser used trail to join the main trail from. Fallen trees and lots of spider webs, which accurately confirm no one else has walked along here recently.
But then as soon as you join the main trail, lots of other people. As you shall see parts of it are wide enough to drive a car down.
A surprise abandoned Buddhist temple, complete with a gold statue inside. There were a few construction vehicles scattered around suggesting they might be trying to fix it up, but also a lot of falling down sheds full of rocks and rusty bits of previously fallen down sheds.
There are a lot of side trails to go on over little peaks such as this one. But none have a clear view down.
The main trail seems to come and go. This bit is over the other side of the ridge complete with retaining wall.
And then right at the end of the journey, Mount Raiden. The mountain named after the dude from Mortal Kombat. No view at all. Also just to the left of the photo there were a bunch of Ham radio nerds with their various antennas hanging from trees. They really did not want their photo taken, as I arrived they said 'please no photo', so I did not photo. I kind of wonder if they were spreading last minute election misinformation.
And then I exited to the road, and realised I have been to this road junction before. On the last hike of my last trip, I took the left fork here and went to Mount Takamizu. On my first hike of this trip I came down the right fork from Mount Raiden. I did not plan this and had no idea I would pass this point until I got here.
Here come some other hikers who I would guess are doing the Mitake gorge trail as it starts / ends here, in the middle of nowhere. There is a station here but not really a town.
And here is the station. Tiny. I probably photographed it last year when I would of got off here to go to Mount Takamizu. Today I will get on here to get back to Tokyo. Short hike today but I almost fell asleep on the train on the way back!
Shimbashi to Yurakucho in the rain
Wet streets, neon lights, darkness at 5pm. All of these add up to photos of lights under bridges.
One of the great things about Japan is that it gets dark very early. This helps me disguise the fact that I like to go to bed at about 9pm. In Korea it does not really get dark until then so I miss out on a lot of the neonicity of Seoul (inventing words is my main hobby).
Tonight I left with intentions of going further north than I did, but I got hungry early, and then it was raining, so I scurried back. On the way I found a new series of tunnels under the train tracks between Shimbashi and Yurakucho. Some of these were a bit too upmarket for a pleb like me, so I found $9 ramen instead. I hear a lot about inflation in Japan, but the ramen places all still gave change for a 1000 yen note, and with the exchange rate like it is now, that is dam cheap.
Who won the election? Actually I checked and voting does not officially close until 8pm, but many prefectures are closing at 7pm to save money because they are broke. Maybe there will be a general strike across all of Japan that lasts a month and cancels all trains and government run otter cafes?
Tomorrow is supposed to be raining, so no hiking, and indoor things are mostly shut on Mondays, so there could be a lot of coffee drunk.
I started my journey following the train tracks and found a lot of places to take photos of lights reflecting off the underside of bridges. Here is the first one.
This is a very long section of new looking under the tracks restaurants and boutique shops. The restaurants looked too fancy for me, date nights were going on with guys handing over flowers and puppies. There is a similar section of tunnels beneath the tracks between Ueno and Akihabara, so I guess they are doing similar things everywhere.
Occasionally I came out from the under the tracks tunnels and followed the street alongside the tracks, which was also photogenic.
But my hunger soon got the best of me, so it was time for cheap ramen. The ramen man yelled at me in Japanese a lot, I just glared at him. That is not racist, if he yelled at me in English I would just glare at him too.
The local gambling den has halloween decorations and cartoon motifs to entice the kids in. Wait until they learn about same day multis! Japan is great, but it is even better with a same day multi!
My camera is still out of stock everywhere in Japan. For 5 years it has been out of stock. Also electronics are more expensive in Japan than in Australia, even with the favourable exchange rate at the moment.
I found myself Ginza adjacent, standing in the middle of the road above a freeway tunnel. People looking through clear umbrellas were concerned for my safety.
And then it started raining a lot more, so I walked back to Shimbashi and got wet. I have taken a photo in this spot before, on my last trip. Now I am staying in a hotel about 100 metres from here.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2024-10-27 said:
You got 6 pieces of pork in your ramen!!
jenny on 2024-10-27 said:
nicec clear tree ad root photos.
Kiyosumi Gardens
Prepare yourselves mentally for me to complain about a bit of rain. I may have already mentioned it but the last few month long trips I went on it did not rain at all. Now it has rained last night and today. So that is a new record for rain and it is supposed to rain more again tomorrow.
I will get wet and complain. Umbrellas are for people who value not getting wet more than not getting in my way.
Election update, the guy that replaced Kishida that replaced Abe who only started in the job a month ago who's name we never even knew has lost some kind of important majority. The emperor is displeased. Something like that.
I hung around my hotel a bit longer than usual, with my face pressed alternatively against the window (from which I can see bullet trains going past) and the weather radar on my phone. It was raining hard, but then at about 8am it stopped enough for me to go to a cafe for breakfast. After which it stopped entirely so I have no idea what I was complaining about.
Originally I planned to wander around boring shops as most culturally important boring things like museums are closed on Monday, but then it stopped raining so I walked to a garden instead.
The walk took me past the very crowded former fish market at Tsukiji, over many bridges connecting fake islands before I arrived at the small garden with very green water of Kiyosumi. It was only $1.50 to get in so no complaints. $2 would have been $0.50 too much.
Anyway, then it was time to walk back via Ginza again for a salad in the basement of Takashimaya. It was as green as the lake water.
This photo is just to show that it is raining. Even though that is kind of a cool looking old brick building over there.
Nearby was this park. I believe it is a disguised smoking area. Since it was raining it was just me.
Time to do an environmental rant. Every single light pole in Ginza has these 2 fabric flags affixed advertising the season and some kind of event. They both have 2024 printed on them so they cannot be re-used next year. In a month or so a few thousand of these are garbage.
Now it was time to regret coming to Tsukiji. Last time I was here I got chased by an angry sushi chef wielding a meat cleaver who decided I was a homosexual (true story!). There are way too many people here lined up to get the same stuff you can get from every 7-eleven for cheaper. I think that the Japan food market game is weak compared to other Asian countries.
A less busy bit. I avoided the busiest bits. A lot of it was knocked down to make way for the Olympics that sort of happened during Covid. But they never actually built anything in it's place, construction is only just starting now. There has been a giant hole in the ground where the wholesale market used to be for many years now.
Time to start crossing some bridges. I have become very familiar with the very grey looking Sumida river.
That sky bridge connecting those 2 towers is kind of like the extending bit of the aerobridge you use to walk onto a plane. And I thought that was a bit weird. But then I thought about it and I guess the inner bit is on rollers so that when there is an earthquake and the towers sway that it does not pull off the side of one of the towers.
Apparently it is actually the maritime college. I do not know what this building is, perhaps an old observatory to teach people how to navigate by the stars.
If you are going to take photos like this in a place like this then I am going to take your photo and put it on the internet.
The guy in the boat has the loudest of 2 stroke motor's, which means I must type, how's the serenity?
And in a rare treat, a real lunch. I was the only guy in here, I made all the women nervous. A bit pricey, but it was the Takashimaya department store basement on Ginza.
Will it be raining this evening? No idea. Will it rain enough tomorrow to stop me going hiking? Hmm, that will be a more difficult decision.
Shimbashi to Shinagawa
It is not raining so that is good. Tomorrow it will, a lot. Plans are in tatters. This will likely result in having to double up hiking days on Wednesday and Thursday, a true test of endurance.
Tonight I walked from where I am staying in Shimbashi in a southerly direction following the bullet train line to Shinagawa. this was further than I thought, and quite a boring walk following the white smooth fence of a never ending construction site. Along the way I passed the newest station on the Yamanote line, Takanawa Gateway. Nearby this station is the actual ruins of the Takanawa gate, and that may be the most disappointing google maps point of interest I have ever seen.
All of this lead to Shinagawa, where Americans love to all stay in the same hotel that Elvis and Nixon once stayed at, the Shinagawa Prince. This is actually about 5 or so large towers across a couple of city blocks seemingly behind a walled compound with direct bus service to Disneyland and the airport.
There is no food to be found near Shinagawa station, it is very strange! I ended up eating at Sukiya, which was really cheap and therefore I will chalk that up as a win.
Here is one of the busy streets around my hotel. I should have had dinner here, many many more choices than can be found around the much larger Shinagawa station.
Just a regular back street, but with the Tokyo tower in the distance. Would be better if I had zoom, but I do not.
Stain glass Starbucks. The newest kind of Church. In Australia Starbucks is owned by 7-eleven, which is in turn owned by 7-eleven Japan since earlier this year (Seven & i Holdings Co) which is about to be bought out by the hilariously named Canadian owned convenience store mega conglomerate 'Couche-Tard'. If you were to call someone a couche-tard you might get accused of committing a hate crime.
Here it is in all it's glory, the ruins of the Takanawa gate, right in the middle of a footpath with construction equipment parked on it.
Shinagawa station is a bullet train station, so there are a lot of people. The department store food courts however are pretty disappointing, mainly hamburger places.
My aforementioned dinner from Sukiya. A beef bowl with kim chi, yes I know it is called gyudon. It was so cheap that I added on the side salad, and then tipped it in with the beef and rice. My lunch was expensive so here is the result of that, cheapest dinner possible.
Not many photos tonight, so here is a bonus pic back at Shimbashi where there is an old steam train parked in front of the station. There are a lot of old people playing multiple phones worth at once of Pokemon Go (read that twice). Hopeless addicts.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2024-10-28 said:
Have stayed at Shinagawa Prince - full of Chinese tour groups and not an eating place in sight as you found out. Once was more than enough. Sukiya always ok for a cheap meal in an emergency. I'm still salivating over the ramen with the 6 slices of pork you had the other night.
山雪 on 2024-10-28 said:
秋天 的 枫叶 很 美丽
adriana on 2024-10-28 said:
I like the island shot from the bridge
There are currently 6 comments - click to add
David on 2024-10-26 said:
Sotetsu Fresa Inn Shimbashi Hibiyaguchi (annex)
adriana on 2024-10-26 said:
What is the name of your hotel. You need to add that to your blog each time and give them a rating.
Laura on 2024-10-26 said:
Not so mysterious. I commented on your subreddit a while back. Just a casual NY-based weeb who also likes hiking. We'll be in mostly Tokyo and Nagano next month.
David on 2024-10-26 said:
A new mystery reader
I will have to step up my game
Laura on 2024-10-26 said:
Thanks for giving me something to do (read your blog) while I anxiously await my departure to Japan on US election day!
mother on 2024-10-26 said:
fun times already