Kyoto to Tokyo by Shinkansen
Allow me to tell my day in reverse order with minimal supporting photos in a very succinct format. I have been typing too much.
My hotel is the same as all except one other on this trip, Sotetsu Fresa Inn, this one is in the suburb of Tokyo I am most familiar with, Ueno, or more precisely in this case Okachimachi. There are a lot of cheap hotels in this part of Tokyo.
Before arriving at my hotel, I bought a bear bell! I mock people that have these, now I have one. I had to kill time before I could check in so I went to look at shoes in a sports store, and there was a line of people in the bear bell aisle waiting to test all the bells. Over half the people in the store were buying a bear bell. So I did too. I like to think of it as the dinner bell.
The exciting part of the day, After arriving in Tokyo I bought a sandwich and a melonpan bun. I sat around the lake at Ueno to eat it, the bun was sealed in plastic sitting next to me, a crow snuck up behind me, stole it and flew off! No melonpan bun for me. Some nearby people saw it happen and looked shocked until I laughed about it and they laughed too.
Before that, I arrived in Tokyo, which was nowhere near as busy at the station compared to when I left Tokyo a couple of weeks ago. Today it was fine.
The train ride from Kyoto to Tokyo was uneventful, I had a spare seat next to me, no one seemed sick (this is a first on this trip!), I guess the only thing was the train was 15 minutes late due to high winds, of which I have experienced none of in either Kyoto or Tokyo.
Departing Kyoto even earlier in the day was very busy, I had to buy a drink and a snack from a kiosk on the platform as everywhere in the station was overflowing with people with enormous amounts of shopping.
So that was my day in reverse. Apparently the weather will be great in Tokyo all week, so my bear bell will get a workout.
Now for the pictures in not the reverse order.
My carriage was the very last carriage on the train. Every bullet train was running late due to high winds. Here is a view of a grey bit of the Kyoto rail yards.
This is the street my hotel is on in Tokyo, in fact you can see it on the right if you know what to look for.
This is near where I was sitting when a crow stole my melonpan bun. I wonder if he knows how to get it out of the plastic?
An example of one of many NON COVERED shopping streets in Okachimachi. No rain is forecast so lack of roof is ok.
Now for the hotel shot. Hotel photo lovers, start mourning. This is the last hotel of this trip. It. is. the. same. as. all. the. others.
Also, the toilet is exactly the same, pre fabricated bathroom cubicles are shipped all over Japan and craned into place in every building.
And finally, there it is. My bear bell. It has a plastic cover that slips up and down to stop it from belling when you are not in a bear area, although I intend to wear mine at all times, people will think a cat is nearby and be disappointed when they see that it is me.
Okonomiyaki in Ikebukuro
I edited my reverse documentation of the day from earlier because I had confused Ochanomizu with Okachimachi, which must have thrown everyone for six, which is a saying no one under 50 will even understand.
So let the record show, I am staying in a hotel in Okachimachi, which is just south of Ueno, where as Ochonomizu is further south west of Ueno (but not far!). OK?
Today was a record low number of photos day. Sorry about that. Who the hell am I talking to?
This evening I boarded a train for Okonomiyaki to eat some Ikebukuro. Wait what? It was a short outing regardless, so not many photos. I have to get up really early, 5:12 to be precise, to get my special train to my extra long bear bell required hike.
Here is the view from.. checks notes, checks map, Okachimachi station. It is on the Yamanote line. The Yamanote is partially suspended this weekend at Ikebukuro, which has left 9.3 million tourists completely lost as every Tokyo itinerary describes doing everything along the Yamanote line.
While waiting for my train I examine the escalators in the local Uniqlo store. They seem to be up to code.
Dinner was a make it yourself Okonomiyaki. I did ok. The flip was poor, but I saved it with sauce. I chose pork and kim chi. This is not the style that comes with fried noodles in batter. This was a place in the very familiar Sunshine City complex on the edge of Ikebukuro.
And finally, just to make sure I can type it one more time and not call it Ochonomizu, a shot of the street my hotel is on in Okachimachi.
Mount Takanosu from Lake Okutama to Okutama station
I thought it would take longer!
My day started at 5:12am as I had planned and warned myself. My bag was already packed with drinks and snacks and my clothes were all ready to go. I had no problem getting to Shinjuku on time to get the Okutama Holiday Express 1, the first train to Okutama. There is some conflicting information around about this train, on Sunday it does not split in half at any point, instead it goes to Ome, where you change trains (mad sprint across the platform) to a shorter train with the same name.
It does not stop at many places between Shinjuku and Okutama, but it goes slowly a lot of the way, so it still takes nearly 2 hours.
The train is only for hikers, and was completely full, so the next mad sprint is to get from Okutama train station to the large number of buses departing 1 minute after the train arrives, you have to run! I got my bus.
I stayed on my bus past the main part of the lake where the dam is, to where I would start my 20km hike, which I completed in exactly 6 hours. I was surprised by this, all info I could find suggested 7.5 hours was a good time. These guys must stop for a cooked lunch!
I took so many photos including lots of Fuji, so I will tell the rest of my story with the photos.
I think I got off at a stop named Atami. But you will probably need a map on your phone to do this hike, so get off when the bus gets near the start point on the map. They have provided a nice sign.
There are a few houses at this stop, the people that live here have this view all the time. No matter how I rotate that photo it still looks crooked. I have been to Lake Okutama a few times before, it is the best place for hiking day trips from Tokyo.
Lets get hiking. The first bits were seriously steep, and because I thought I was in for a really long day, I went really fast.
As I got higher, the leaves were more on the ground than the trees. I lost the trail a few times. In some spots they have put a rope to guide you where the leaves are particularly deep. I wore long pants today because I knew it would be a wading through leaves day.
Fuji was a constant companion through the trees (look closely, it's there!), do not worry, there will be clear shots later.
Up on the ridge, it got a bit rocky, and the leaves were um, deader, so it was easier to follow the trail, and go quickly due to the relative flatness.
There are a lot of ways to climb this mountain, I climbed it probably the most challenging way on the way up. Near the top it joins a lot of other paths and the trees thin out and great views are there to be had.
This last bit is actually really steep, although does not look it in the photo. I saw 2 other people before getting to this bit where the trails all join together, here you can see 2 different other people near the top.
And on the top, a few people, including some with their Bunsen burners preparing a 3 course meal. There is a much shorter way to climb but that requires a car. I think the people having a picnic probably drove.
Quite high today, but not as high as my attempt to climb Mount Ibuki that was cancelled due to landslide.
Stance time. Light was not great for it but getting Fuji in the shot was more important than correctly lighting my mullet.
Then I took a heap of selfies still zoomed in, right up my left nostril. Once I realised I zoomed out and here is my head plus Fuji. OK no more Fuji.
The path down was mostly like this, wide and not too steep, it made for quick progress. My bear bell was ringing furiously.
It gets cold enough here at night that the ground freezes in shadows, these bits were still frozen in the afternoon.
Whatever that mountain is across the valley, I have climbed it, because I have climbed all the mountains on that side.
The last bit on the actual trail became a pine / cedar forest again but this time with some sun shining through. I like photos like this.
And this is the end of the trail, after this it is a forest road. I recommend if you do this loop that you do it the way I did it, because getting to this start point up a road would be quite boring. It is still 2km to go.
The ravine at Okutama is nowhere near as nice as it Mitake, which is a photo I took at the start of this trip. They know it is not as good, so they strung a wire to discourage people from taking photos.
And finally, here is the station. Although today did not take as long as I had hoped, I still rate it as a top 5 hike in Japan. Great scenery. Good workout. I hope to do it again one day.
It goes without saying, tonight will be a short outing in the local area only!
Tokyo Ueno area
I got a bit dehydrated today, which made the train ride back from the hike a bit annoying, my legs were getting a bit crampy, felt a bit nauseous. So I drank a huge amount of water when I got back to my hotel. Probably 2 litres. This meant my evening needed to circle public toilets. I think I went 3 times in an hour. I like to over share.
As threatened I stayed very local, Ueno, more specifically from my hotel in South Ueno at Okachimachi to the Ueno station and back again, checking out a few stores to see if they had a toilet in between.
The streets were still quite busy, even though a few places were shut due to it being Sunday. Tourists love to come to the Ameyoko area of Ueno and stand up and eat seafood. It seems you can smoke while you are doing this! Disgusting.
I was hungry and decided I wanted some salt. Ramen it will be then. This place had no customers, my kind of place.
And actually, it was pretty good! They think they are good enough to put their name in their bowls. Lotus root and a huge but of bamboo. I rounded it out with an ice cream from 7-eleven soon after.
Tomorrow is NOT a hiking day.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-11-19 said:
good night shots
mother on 2023-11-19 said:
You must have been quite high today for there to be ice on the ground in such perfect warm weather.
Ueno to the skytree via Asakusa
Today was a rest day. A rest day was very much needed too.
A rest day for me involves walking to the skytree from Ueno and back again. But now I am back in my hotel early ready to plan a non rest day for tomorrow.
Walking between these two areas is something I have done a few times before, so I tried to go on different streets compared to previous visits between each location, this mostly seemed to work out.
The tourist hunger games going on at Senso-ji shrine in Asakusa were a bit crazy, so I could not wait to get around it, and I did not walk up the central cough filled alleyway. Actually coughs and sneezes and phlegm gargling were very much a theme today, I had to flee numerous areas of the Skytree due to people who appeared to genuinely be, near the end.
Somehow I ended up with more photos than I expected, so more mucus tales shall follow with the photos.
The walkways above Ueno station always make for a good way to start the day to check on the weather. Perfect, and supposed get back above 20c in a day or two. Weird. I blame all the packaging everything comes in. Plus lithium batteries in vapes. Plus too many people having kids.
Something was happening here on the weekend. I gave some instructions to the guys pulling down the tents.
Here is, another random shrine on my way to Asakusa. Probably superfluous. I just labelled someones shrine superfluous.
I was wandering around all comfortable and without worry, but you should never forget, Ninja's are never far away, and they also own a knife shop.
Not a restaurant, a food sample shop. Do not call it fake food! They have a sign there explaining they are offended if you call it fake food.
This meant I approached the skytree from a different angle, where I am able to get the whole thing in one photo.
I am too cheap to go up the skytree, instead I went to the xmas market. I remember it being much more elaborate than this. But maybe there is more to see at night.
A rest day means a real lunch. I went to the afternoon tea gallery inside a bookshop and had this vegetarian thing, the balls are tofu and soy related in the tomato sauce (I think?). I was the only male in the place. I was happy with my choice.
And finally, as I walk back through Ueno, I was surprised by this. I remember reading Tokyo had banned smoking indoors in all restaurants some time ago. Clearly they did not, or no one cares about the rule and proudly shows a sign anyway. I do remember they could not force stores and restaurants to close during COVID lockdowns and that was a big drama due to ancient laws about land owners rights, so maybe the smoking ban is related.
Returning to Asakusa for Ramen
This morning I went through Asakusa and could not believe how many tourists were there, including me! So tonight I decided to go back there to bolster the evening dwindling numbers of tourists. As expected it was a lot quieter.
It is a nice place, lots of choices for eating, lots of covered shopping streets to keep the moon beams off my neck, the odd shrine or 2, the giant 24 hour donki store, a urinal in a kids playground that is out in the open! Everything you could ask for and more.
And since I doubled up on going to Asakusa, I doubled up on ramen, 2 nights in a row.
Tomorrow is a hiking day! I have picked a shorter, closer hike than last time, although I feel completely refreshed today already, my Garmin watch even congratulated me on my improved recovery time. I am starting to doubt the science behind this because I think I over exerted myself yesterday.
I carefully examined all the masks and decided that my face is closest to number 2, top row second from left, contorted pig face.
Asakusa at night. Those 2 guys look a bit sketchy. They look like they could be the dreaded foreigners I keep hearing about.
Chinese people dream about coming to this place at 3am. It is open 24 hours. It is basically a giant Daiso store, only more expensive.
Here is tonight's ramen. Red spicy miso, to which I added a heap more spicy stuff. Probably not the best ramen, noodles were definitely overcooked.
And then I walked back to Ueno, and completed the day by taking the same shot from the same place that I took this morning. This could be a new thing I do every day, but it won't be because I cannot be bothered.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2023-11-21 said:
25k or there abouts
mother on 2023-11-20 said:
I did 20,000 steps today. How many did you do?
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
adriana on 2023-11-19 said:
dinner looked nice haha