Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama castle
Today I did all the tourist things that there are to do in Matsuyama. As far as I can tell, there are 2, Dogo Onsen, and the elevated castle that dominates the city skyline which can be accessed by cable car, chair lift, ropeway and catapult.
As it turns out there is a lot to see, and I took a huge number of photos, so I will add my whims quips and attempted whimsy below.
Early on it was cloudy and threatening rain. But it did not rain. I kind of wished it would later in the day because it was 25c again, it is almost winter! My eyes are hurting a bit from the bright sun of the last few days too.
I knew I was too early to see the sites of Dogo onsen, so first I headed to a nearby hill thinking I might climb it, on my rest day. There was a shrine in front of it.
There will be a lot of shrines today, so try and mentally prepare yourselves. Also I actually could not find a way to climb that hill, I am sure there is a way but it must be all the way around the back of it.
This was a bit strange. It is the propeller off a world war 2 plane, at the shrine, apparently donated by a fisherman. Thanks.
There are some historic onsen buildings underneath this shield that has presumably been erected to protect it from the risk of meteor impact, just one of many ways things get destroyed in Japan on a regular basis.
I stopped for a coffee, at Starbucks. This is the inside of the Starbucks which is on top of the old train station, which is now serviced by single carriage trams. Very nice spot for a coffee and a scone.
Here is the station, and an old train, just off to the right there was an Indian woman in full colourful sari filming a travel segment with a TV crew, pointing at a map and slow motion walking in her ridiculous bejewelled sandals. If I had of taken a photo, that might have helped with this description, but I was more interested in the train.
You could get inside this shrine and wander about. There were school kids doing some kind of amazing race thing using their ipads to take photos as proof of each place they had to go to.
Now for a lap of Dogo park. I am just going to presume it is a dog park and that Dogo really is the Japanese word for dog. Also this park is a culturally significant park, a sign told me so.
At the top of Dogo park there is a viewing platform, so here is the view. There will be a lot of view today, too much view probably.
My next destination was the castle on the top of the hill. Here is the chairlift used by lazy people from all over the world. A lot of people fall off, so they have constructed a long trampoline under it.
Behold, the castle. I just looked it up on Wikipedia, it is still an original castle, the wooden bits are the original wooden bits from 1603. Some parts were destroyed in world war 2 and re built, but the main part is original.
It costs about $5 to go in the castle, they take credit card. Since they do not require cash, I agreed and paid the price to go in.
A sign that something is going to be ancient, you have to take off your shoes. Slippers are on offer but are optional. I opted to not put on the slippers, but I advise putting them on, the lips of the ladders have a bump on the edge and it hurts going up and down.
It is darker than this inside the castle, you can wander around all 3 levels of what I presume is the main old bit.
For a while I had the whole top level to myself, I was not tempted to engrave my name into it like people seem to keep doing all around the world including in Japan lately and posting on tiktok and wondering why they get arrested.
I chose a different path down that went past a secret garden that looked dead that I could not figure out how to get into.
And for my last shot of the day, food trucks on the castle grounds. Mostly fried stuff but the one on the left is making pizzas. I probably should have had a pizza.
More ramen in Matsuyama
Hmm, I think Matsuyama has less busy areas than the population should warrant. Earlier today I saw many views of the entire city, and it looks very large, but other than the bits I have been to, I cannot identify any busy areas where one might go to wander at night and look at stuff. And so, it is time to move on, and tomorrow I will take a train along the north coast of Shikoku before going across the sea to the mainland (on a train this time not a ferry) where I will change to a Shinkansen (bullet train) at Okayama and go to Osaka.
I believe Osaka qualifies as a large city.
Anyway, 2 nights ago I had some delicious ramen, and declared 'more of this', so that is what I did. Refer pics below. The pics are low effort.
I like my hotel a lot, but I would like it more if for some reason it had a tractor on the balcony like this one.
Long time readers may recall that while in Korea, I enjoy wandering along the many drains. I thought I would go and check out the drain scene in Matsuyama. Pitch black, no water, no trees, no view. Hmm, Korea has superior drains.
I have no idea what is going on at LIVEHOUSE SALONKITTY, it did not seem large enough to be a live music venue. Also that guy has ridiculous hair. I am a street photographer now.
Here is a model shop. The window display is a bit hard to see here, but it had a heap of really old model cars that were completely covered in dust, and the shelves they were on were in a partial state of collapse.
It is better to be lucky. But I would rather be exact. Then when luck comes you are ready. There's a lot to unpack there.
And finally, 2nd Matsuyama ramen. I think it is a tie with the one from 2 nights ago, so it was great. Significantly more spicy, with an egg. But the previous one had a pile of vegetables. This place had an order on the ipad setup going, I think that was my first usage of the order on the ipad on this trip, but I have had a couple of scan the QR code to order experiences, and obviously, buy a ticket from the machine. Just as long as you do not talk to anyone, no matter the method, they are happy.
Matsuyama to Osaka by train
Today was a bit of an ordeal, I will try to be succinct.
First it was raining, which is no big deal, as it is basically an all day travel day, and as it turns out my hotel in Osaka is directly on top of a subway station, so I never got wet.
Checking out in Matsuyama, I went to the machines, hit English, hit check out, stuck my room key in the flashing slot, and the machine says 'sorry, error', and does not give me back the room key. I think nothing of this and go to the manned reception that does not want to talk to anyone and tell them, they speak English. They tell me I broke the machine and I must check out. I tell them the machine has my room key. They tell me I broke the machine and I must wait. For what? I tell them my room number and ask them to do it manually. They tell me 'we have to find out if you are responsible for breaking the machine on purpose'. Meanwhile, a Japanese couple tried to check out at the same machine, and it ate their key as well. So now they are yelling and screaming, and the receptionist is pointing at me as if I did something. After 5 minutes the manager comes and opens up the machine, and gets out my room card and the other couples room card, and cant find anything wrong with the machine, and puts in a test card, and it fails again. So the machine is faulty. But no apology, they still think I broke it somehow.
Moving on, I walked the 30 minutes or so to Matsuyama station, no rain but it was wet. On the platform I am standing away from everyone, drinking a bottle of water, when I get shoved, hard, from behind. I was not in the way of anyone by a long shot, I spit water and turn around and a Japanese guy goes into an angry rant, which featured the word American about 10 times. I thought of smacking him but realised I would be arrested 100% for sure and certain and held for a week without being spoken to (this really happens in Japan to foreigners, often). So I walked off. Other people saw all this and said nothing.
Next I am changing from the limited express train to the Shinkansen in Okayama, taking a photo along the platform, along with 4 or 5 Japanese guys, and the security guard comes over and yells at me, and demands to see the photos I am taking. I would not give him my camera and told him to call the police. This time a young Japanese guy did angrily talk to the security guard, then apologised to me on behalf of all of Japan.
And now finally I arrived at my hotel in Osaka, which was a zoo at check in right on 3pm with bags piled up in stupid places, again it is check in via machine. I line up. A guy in front of me using the machine seems to finish and walk off, so I go to use the machine, which is on the welcome screen, and next thing he is back yelling directly in my ear from an inch away and spat on the floor! I gladly gave him back the machine and went to another, it seems he had gone to get his ID out of his briefcase, he really had an actual briefcase! The check in staff at reception saw all this, I saw them look away when I looked at them, but of course they all did nothing.
So a strange day, rivalled only by the time I got chased by a guy with a cleaver at the fish market.
Here is the JR Matsuyama station. I do not think I took a pic of it yet. It is small, but under re construction. There are signs lobbying for the Shinkansen to be built to Matsuyama.
Yes, Matsuyama is Songshan in Mandarin, which is an airport and major train station in down town Taipei. I was there in May this year.
Possibly while construction is going on, multiple trains leave from the same platform in opposite directions, to the right is the back of my train, to the left is the local train going in the opposite direction. I do believe some people got on the wrong train based on their panic as we set off. It was near here that I got shoved a few minutes earlier and yelled at, before the trains arrived. As best I could tell the guy did not get on any trains, he probably waits in the station all day for foreigners.
The inside of my train, which is the modern looking train in the above photo, is very orange, and the toilets are no flush squatters. Have fun with that ladies.
This is the mid point over the sea heading to Okayama. The bridge is in multiple segments connected by little islands.
And here is arriving at Shin-Osaka. I braved taking a photo on a train platform because I had ridden on the light blue Kagoshima to Shin-Osaka Shinkansen. Still dark and rainy.
And now for my room pics. It is less yellow than this. It is the same as hotels 1 and 2 but not 3 of this trip, in that it is a Sotetsu Fresa Inn. This one is right on top of the Namba subway station.
And for the final shot from my arduous journey, the very heavily requested shot of the toilet. Here is the toilet. Enjoy the toilet.
Osaka Namba shopping area
Osaka is a real city. It is full of tourists. My hotel is right in the middle of the peak tourist area so what did I expect? Also I am one of the tourists, hence the risk of being physically assaulted is real and ever present.
Tonight was mildly damp, never raining enough to stop me walking in the street, but if I was concerned about getting wet, I could go under the covered shopping streets with the approximately 3 million people (I counted) who were doing that.
I took the expected course, right up Shinsaibashi over Dotonbori. I just learnt that Dotonbori is named after a person and is actually a fake river/canal. Doton Yasui had it excavated in 1612 to bring people to his Kabuki theatre. So there you go.
This is literally, the front door of my hotel. That is Takashimaya on the right. I do not know how I got such a good location for so cheap.
A little bit of light drizzle made this area slightly less busy when I wanted to take a photo, which was good.
Because as you can see, under the roof it is jam packed full of sneezing and coughing people who have a 7th sense that detects moisture in the air and causes them to immediately commence de-lunging.
The spot. The actual Glico man was a Filipino athlete, used to advertise candy. The best know is of course, pocky, the chocolate covered sticks.
Walk undercover long enough and the crowds thin out. The stores start to feature wigs, clogs and shopping carts. Some of them were closing at 6pm on a Friday. This is not the case within a kilometre radius of Glico man, but if you stay the course you get to the sad end of the long shopping tunnel.
The illuminations on the parallel street go for about the same distance. Each section has it's own colour combo, no doubt with a very deep meaning.
Rissoles for dinner, or as Japan calls them, hamburg. This is what you have instead of a steak in Japan. An actual steak is a cube of marbled steak from an immaculately conceived cow that costs probably $500, other than that 'hamburg steak' it is. This place is a little more grown up than my normal dinner choices, Japanese only menu, and the meal came with a drink included, it took a lot of convincing to get a coke, which I did not even want, instead of a red wine. It was actually a backup choice, I had chosen a hamburg steak location with plastic seats and trays but when I asked for a table for one they turned me away.
And since on my way back the boat was going past, here is one more of Dotonbori.
Tomorrow is a hybrid hike / deer visit day.
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山雪 on 2023-11-10 said:
Osaka 是非常繁忙和吵闹, 但是也非常令人兴奋。
jenny on 2023-11-10 said:
yes I hate being mistaken for an American and yelled at by old men. At least I can set them straight. Seems like over tourism is having negative effects.
Nara Mount Kasuga forest
Last time I went to Nara, which was in 2017, I was prevented from walking the loop through the 'forest of the gods' due to fallen trees from a typhoon. On that day I took some great photos with my Fujifilm X70 which I should have never sold, and walked on a different trail through the middle of the forest. Today I returned 6 years later to walk the full loop.
The full loop is probably not as nice as the shorter track up the middle.
First of all, I boarded the train and googled the location where former Prime Minister Abe was shot and killed with a home made gun, it is in Nara somewhere, but not near where I was going, so I did not take a JFK style photo of whatever the grassy knoll equivalent is. By the way, that is the only time anyone ever uses the word knoll.
After getting off at the JR station, which is a bit further away from the action but I have a pass to use but I digress, I decided on an anti clockwise loop of the Primeval forest. Last time I was here I kept calling it the Primordial forest. I mixed up my Pri's. So I would like to go on the record as saying the Mount Kasuga forest is indeed a Primeval forest. What the hell does that even mean? Apparently it was off limits for 500 years and it has never been logged. What this actually means is, there is now basically a bus suitable road around it and it is a 12km loop that is not that interesting until you get to the non Primeval bit at the end. Lots of pics of the non Primeval bits shall follow this text...
Here is JR Nara station. Today is the last day of validity for my Setouchi area pass. Fear not, tomorrow I will start using my JR West all area pass.
This is kind of the main street that runs parallel to the tourist street that goes past all the deer and shrines. Quite grey at this early hour.
Last time I was here I took a great photo at this spot late in the afternoon, better than today's early morning shot.
Here is the Primeval forest, the trail is like this all the way round. It does not really count as a hike I don't think. There were not too many people on it today, just joggers, maybe 5 cars went past, I think there is a toll to take a car.
This lake and dam at the top was a lot more colourful last time too. Still not a lot of colour around, even at the top of a hill in Nara.
Over the road from the Primeveal forest national historic world heritage area, is a logging operation.
At end of the Primeval loop I went up the hill to Wakakusayama Hill to appreciate the view, and the deer. Here is a deer. Later in the day I saw a guy washing blood off the ends of his fingers, hand feeding the deer is discouraged.
There is a pay area to get up to here that makes it a short walk. I will go back down it shortly as you shall see. I decided to honour the gate at the bottom and offer to pay. CASH ONLY. I regretted being honest, now I have a wallet full of useless coins.
The view down the pay trail is quite nice looking. Here is a valley of flowers looking into the sun.
Here are the training grounds for the deer fights. That big building in the background is the deer fighting stadium, where the most aggressive deer are pitted against each other to settle their differences. The loser is dehorned, the winner is killed and eaten.
But they also have the uncovered variety. OK, that is enough Nara for today, my third visit to the deer fanciers paradise.
Namba to Umeda in Osaka
I remember walking from Namba to Umeda on a previous visit. It is really not very far. I also remember eating a pizza in Umeda, and my joke then was 'umeda me a pizza!', classic stuff. I could have walked all the way there under the covered shopping street and become frustrated at the slow pace, but no, I decided to go one street to the right and check out what was happening on the exposed to the actual sky and elements streets.
This can also be frustrating due to the traffic lights where no cars ever go, and lack of jay walking, but tonight I am all in black like a ninja and wearing a face mask to avoid detection by the AI cameras trained only on Japanese faces anyway, so I jay walked. I lived to tell the tale.
Umeda, which is also where Osaka station is, is really the central part of Osaka, but I guess it is overtaken by Namba due to the tourist shopping areas as far as where people go. But do not worry, Umeda is huge and a lot of train lines criss cross everywhere and all the private rail companies have huge stores above and under ground and across the roads and floating in the sky etc.
Another boat (actually 2) on the hand dug ancient canal, so another photo. Looking in the opposite direction to last night.
Possible dinner option. All foreigners! I couldn't do it, but do not worry, I did almost the same later.
Example of one street over to the right from the main covered shopping street. Lots of nice restaurants along here, some fancy, some more my style.
In a country that still has secret home toilet paper delivery services, they now have the ladies only pharmacy. What goes on in there? They have a xmas tree.
This is Osaka city hall. Pretty small really. Nearby they were handing out trophies for the Osaka city trials, which is the type of motorcycles they do parkour with over obstacles. There were a few food trucks but all the stalls were closing and someone on the stage burst into something resembling Ed Sheeran so I heckled and fled without collecting my trophy.
This is entering Umeda from the back streets. Actually a long street full of very fancy dining rooms (fancy invite only restaurants).
And here is my vegetarian but probably not vegan dinner, from one of my old favourites Soup Stock Tokyo. I chose the ratatouille and vegetable soup combo. I was the only male in the place. A hush came over the seating area as I carried in my tray. People took out their phones and made emergency appointments at the lady pharmacy.
And for my final pic of the 42,000 step day (surprisingly high), my former nemesis ferris wheel. I have actually ridden on this one!
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adriana on 2023-11-11 said:
You can also walk to Umeda all the way underground - very nice too
mother on 2023-11-11 said:
Deers have antlers not horns.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2023-11-09 said:
Looks like three days in Matsuyama is enough. Good to know.
Brian on 2023-11-09 said:
Lots of great photos David looks very interesting.