Onomichi and Fukuyama day trip
Today I decided to utilise me Setouchi area pass train thing and ride some bullet trains.. and some normal trains. The pass incorporates the whole area between Kyoto and Nara, down to Fukuoka on Kyushu, and also the northern area of Shikoku and the ferries between. It is one of the lesser known passes, fortunately I purchased before the price rise when it was still good value. But alas, if you do not use it, it is a waste of money, so today I used it.
First I got on a bullet train, non reserved (never done that before) and rode 20 minutes to Mihara, a station actually built on top of the ruins of a castle. This seems a strange choice as it really limits your plans to re construct a fake castle and entice tourists to your town if there's a bullet train station perched on top of the castle wall.
From Mihara I changed to a local train and travelled 3 stops to Onomichi, a town wedged between graveyards and the sea, and the start of the famous Shimanami Kaido bike path across all the islands that I will not be doing. Instead I joined the 'route for old temples' which winds it's way along alleyways up and down the side of the hill past a sea of graveyards. If there is ever a landslide here, then the zombie apocalypse will be real.
After I was all templed out, I ignored the ropeway and walked up the hill to admire the view. I had seen it before on youtube from one of the gopro guys that just wanders around Japan saying nothing. Today it was grey so perhaps the actual view was not as good as if it were blue sky, but the clouds were pretty interesting.
Descending again, I found the Onomichi covered shopping street, a mix of completely run down and abandoned, and almost completely run down and abandoned.
It was time for a Lawson's sandwich and a bottle of water to contemplate my next move.
The next town over was Fukuyama, and almost like Mihara, there is a castle seemingly on top of the bullet train line, only this time the train just missed it and the fake castle still exists. So I boarded the Sanyo line and headed to Fukuyama and admired the closed on Monday's castle from the outside. It is iron clad on one side.
By now threatening clouds were rolling in, but still it never rained, so I boarded the Nozomi back to Hiroshima and was back in my hotel by 2pm.
So that is a day trip in the Hiroshima region of Japan that had no hiking at all. It is possible to do.
As I mentioned in the wall of text above, the Bullet train station at Mihara stops on top of the demolished castle. Right on the castle walls.
Onomichi station is not on the bullet train line, it is on the Sanyo line. A lot of trains coming from or going to Shikoku were cancelled due to heavy rain today.
This is the official start point of the bike path across the many islands. The start is a boat ride.
On a grey day like today, Onomichi at sea level looks like some old rusty ship yards. Probably because that is what it is.
I think there are roughly 5000 grave stones for each inhabitant of this town. Seriously, everywhere was a graveyard. Ship building is a dangerous business.
Time to climb the hill. It is really only about 10 minutes to the top on foot. Here is a view part way up, with a rock.
After descending, I wandered into the covered shopping street, and the main shop that actually sold anything other than wigs and second hand clogs was selling lemon cakes, and lemon cake related items. I did not have a lemon cake. Should have.
Here is the almost completely abandoned part of the shopping street. Some of the shops were actually being used as car parking spaces. The actual shops!
The other end of the rather long shopping street has a few shops selling clothes for old people, and right at the end, bike shops.
Right by Onomichi station is the local department store, Fukuya. It looks a bit old from the outside, but still had a bit going on inside it.
Next stop, Fukuyama. I first wandered away from the castle side of the station to look at the roses. The station signage proudly declared Fukuyama to be the city of roses.
The chrysanthemum festival is in full swing here. They had strict crowd control in place for the 5 of us looking at the flowers.
The inside of the castle was closed, it is a museum of sorts. It is a fake castle, so the inside is concrete and vending machines. However I could wander all around it, and the back is clad with iron. There was a sign explaining that it was clad with iron on one side, but not why it was clad with iron on one side.
After castle appreciation, it was time to ascend to the top of Fukuyama station and board the Nozomi Shinkansen back to Hiroshima, which is about a 25 minute ride, unreserved (there were plenty of seats). It is still not raining here.
Hiroshima bomb dome and peace park
My last night in Hiroshima. It rained briefly, but not at a time that bothered me in the slightest. Last time I was here it rained every night.
For my last night I headed out on a bigger loop, that took me past all the atom bomb related things. It was dark so I could not see much. Last time it was too wet to appreciate. Maybe next time.
My loop took me past the main area of town to what looked like another shopping area, the tram ran up the street, but there was not much there. Also some things are closed on Monday's.
Eventually I found the hotel I stayed at last time, and thought the Peace Boulevard would be lit up with xmas illuminations like last time, but it was not. Perhaps they do not do it anymore.
Tomorrow I will go to Matsuyama, on Shikoku via hydrofoil. I have not been there before. There is a castle. There are less than 20 bears left on the entire island.
As I left my hotel it was just stopping raining, I descended under the road by Hiroshima station and remembered there is this cavernous waste of space there.
Next up, the museum. I remember thinking it needed a refresh, maybe it has had one now? Either way at night it is shut. The actual light was much darker than this. You cannot normally see clouds in the night sky.
It occurred to me that on this trip I have not yet had a proper bowl of traditional pork flavoured ramen. So I picked a spot and went there. Closed on Monday's.
So instead of ramen, it was beef tendon curry demi glaze omurice with winter root vegetables. Long title. I have had beef tendon stuck in my throat ever since.
Now to find out how to catch the ferry tomorrow, it is covered by my train pass, you cannot book a seat, great.
Hiroshima to Matsuyama ferry
Now I am in Matsuyama. I came here by ferry. Well, let me elaborate, tram, ferry, train, walk, laundry, walk.
First of all, there are some tram works happening in Hiroshima, so my tram to Hiroshima port went off on a trip to the furthest point possible from the port, then went half way back into the city, then turned for the port, thus turning a 20 minute journey into 70 minute journey. This nearly caused me to miss the ferry I had planned to take, but I just made it, as I am generally always early for everything.
The actual ferry is called the Super Jet, and is a medium sized catamaran, which goes quite fast. Fast enough that you are not allowed outside at all, so the view is ruined by sea spray stained glass (refer below). There is a small cafe onboard that no one used, and it was only about 1/10th full. The journey was covered by my train pass, otherwise I think it is $60. Arriving at Matsuyama port is actually a bit of a distance from the city proper, but there is a train 800m away from the ferry terminal, which I walked to. Soon after I got to the train station, the free shuttle bus with everyone else arrived.. it never occurred to me to even check for a bus. Then horror of horrors, not only is the train not covered by my train pass, they do not take IC cards other than the local one they invented. Same deal for all the trams in Matsuyama - icoca, suica etc. will not work on any Iyotetsu tram or train. Sort it out! I had to buy a train ticket with cash, like I had gone to a third world country.
Anyway, my change worked at the coin laundry, where I ended up next. This was all part of the plan to not waste a short travel day by turning it into laundry day. The coin laundries do still take coins, but generally they prefer you to use an IC card or credit card, and they do take suica or icoca, even in Matsuyama.
Ok, time for a few boring pics.
I was late to the ferry terminal, so here is a shot of it from the docks. There are a couple of restaurants in there. The terminal at the Matsuyama end has a lot less to see.
That is my boat coming into port. It roars in at nearly full speed. From what I can tell there are 2 companies sharing a fleet of identical ferries. You can buy a ticket from either companies desk, or show your train pass as I did, and then you might get a red ferry, or a blue ferry.
This is almost the entire seating area, I think its 10 rows of 12 across seats, so 120 person capacity. Hardly anyone on here today though.
After walking for a few hundred metres from the weird private train line, I found a coin laundry. Complete with futuristic blue lighting. Google camera helped me translate.
And now for my huge and very very good room. I think it is $60 a night. Daiwa Roynet. This will easily be the best room on this trip. The TV has all the streaming apps, a rarity in Japan.
The bathroom has 2 areas to it, the toilet area and a separate bath and shower area, which I am standing in.
That's all for now.
Matsuyama shopping areas
Now I have seen Matsuyama. At least the connected by covered shopping streets dual central areas.
It is a little quiet, but does have a large shopping area. The covered shopping streets are long, and mostly still have actual shops. There is a department store on each end, Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya, so none of the cheap rural brand department stores either.
The Mitsukoshi has a really good food court, but then also right over the road from my hotel is a Coco curry, which I have not even been to yet on this trip. Such a tough future decision. Tonight however, I found the proper ramen that had so far eluded me.
The Takashimaya has a roof garden! I could tell it did, because there is a ferris wheel. So I went up.. and was disappointed in what they call a roof garden.
Now I must do a bit of study to get to tomorrow's hike. It's another Yamap Japanese hiking website only kind of a hike, google will be of no help, alltrails is badly outdated.
Here is covered shopping street 1 of 2. This one is about 100m from my hotel. It is the nicer of the 2.
The lobby area at the front of the Mitsukoshi department store is quite grand. They close at 7pm, but the great food court stays open until 10pm.
When you get to the end of covered shopping street 1, you make a 90 degree turn, and head down covered shopping street 2 of 2. The lower rent version.
It is a bit hard to see, but this is an e-sports stadium in a mall. Where you and 3 of your friends you never met in person before, can battle 4 people you have racially abused and hurled homophobic slurs at via voice chat while virtually murdering each other in person to settle some serious internet business.
Seriously, this is the best view you can get of the ferris wheel. I am not capitalising the f in Ferris.
After the disappointment of the no view roof, I descended down to the Tokyu hands to console myself. They have a stupid new logo, the old one was iconic.
My fantastic ramen. With a pile of leeks on top of it. It was the best meal of the trip so far. More of this.
Just past my hotel is the red light district. You can tell by all the 'information' places. The red lights seem to be mainly green though. Now to return to my hotel and try on all the clothes I washed today to see how much they shrunk, a fun part of any holiday.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
adriana on 2023-11-07 said:
Did you put enough shichimi on your ramen?
David on 2023-11-07 said:
the hotel laundrys are always useless, the real coin laundrys have the huge drum dryers that dry clothes on cold in 30 minutes
mother on 2023-11-07 said:
good to know that we can't use our train cards and very nice hotel room, but don't they have their own laundry?
Mount Takanawa from Iyo-Hojo station
Naturally when you go to a place you have never been to before, the first thing you do is scroll the map and find the highest mountain possible to get to on a day trip. From Matsuyama that is Mount Takanawa, which I believe is the highest mountain within the city limits of Matsuyama. It is not very high at just under 1000m, but if you start the hike from Iyo-Hojo station as I did, then you are starting at sea level, and it is just over a 22km round trip... so longer than a half marathon. But first, I had to get to it.
First of all, the JR station in Matsuyama is about a 30 minute walk from the main part of the city, so factor that in. For me I went through the castle park, inside the moat, more on the castle tomorrow.
Once I was on the train, it was only about 25 minutes north to my desired station, and my train was full of school kids, and then at least 10 transit cops got on board, and eye balled every male student on the train while taking notes and comparing to what I presume were photos on their phones. Then we all got off at Iyo-Hojo and there were a bunch more cops waiting outside the station. So I assume some kind of groping incident had ensued.
From the station it is about an hour run/walk to the actual start of the trail, which is in the middle of nowhere, but the walk through the small city and farms has a good footpath and goes right past a convenience store for water and supplies.
Once on the trail itself, it was very smooth, easy to make fast progress, almost no steps. I passed 2 other groups on the way up. There is a road up the back of the mountain so there were a few old folks on the summit checking out the view. As you shall see, despite the road the summit area is kind of unusual, there's a weather station, but they have erected a small tower to climb up and check the view and also keep an eye on the various phone antennas.
That's enough description. The important thing is I completed a good hike on Shikoku.
Here is Iyo-Hojo station. I waited for the cops to clear before exiting. Despite being a JR line, it is unclear if you can use an IC card. I had a train pass so did not need a ticket, but I saw no card readers, and there were conductors on the train collecting cash. Weird.
The station is near a supermarket, but it was not open yet. Not to worry, I would soon pass a Lawson's to buy water and calorie mate (my hiking food of choice).
My journey up the road to that mountain had me staring directly into the heart of the sun. My camera really struggled with setting exposure levels today.
The trail starts here, but you go left past the shrine. Allow me to help.... 33.95924056882182, 132.8163932702691
Much of the trail was in these mini canyons, suggesting it is a very old route. No cobwebs today, so the trail is in regular use, plus as I said I passed a couple of groups of old folks making a slow ascent, and then I passed them on my way down again. I am pretty certain when there's an old man with the group he likes to tell the ladies about the foolish foreigner who is going too fast who will not make it to the top. Wrong. Also I am probably as old as you are silly little old man. I just do not need an alpine suit, hiking poles and a stove. No really, I sense they are talking shit about me.
The summit marker is below the summit. At first I thought the weather station would be fenced off and there would be no view, but I could hear people talking.
Down there is Iyo-Hojo, the station is right by that little bump of an island just off the coast. You will see it again below.
The very last bit of the hike joins the one lane road, apparently popular with cyclists although I saw none today. On the way down it seemed nice and colourful, so why not another leaf shot featuring a road.
Looking back from where I had come down from, it looks a lot further than it is in this pic. The walk through the farming areas was very nice. Great weather again today.
I still had to go all the way back to that strange island. Full zoom on this pic, it is actually about 3.5km away.
And for my final pic, I am crossing over the railroad tracks, one street back from the sea. I had no time to run down to the ocean to take a pic of that strange island as the train was coming and there would not be another one for another hour.
After more than 40,000 steps and a half marathon hike, tonight will be a short activity I am sure.
More Matsuyama night
I left my room and everywhere was full of tall thin white guys that looked like they could play Nazi officers in a Hollywood movie. This was highly unusual. Eventually I figured out that there is an ATP professional tennis tournament on here and many of the players and their entourages are staying in my hotel. It seems to be a B grade professional tournament, so no one anyone has ever heard of, and they are staying in a hotel for which I paid about $60 a night.
Anyway, I set off through the undercover shopping streets and suddenly got really shaky, no problem, there is a convenience store on every corner and they all sell hot chocolate in a bottle, just the thing to add some immediate sugar to your bloodstream. I felt perfectly fine within minutes of drinking it.
After that I wanted to find a hamburg steak place for dinner, but they all seemed to combine it with curry, and apparently if you eat too much curry, you will be held accountable for all the worlds woes, so I ended up with mystery deep fried strange batter meat with sauce.
Can you have hot chocolate out of a plastic bottle combined with strawberry flavoured fake chocolate? Of course you can, as long as you climbed a mountain and did over 50k steps today.
Speaking of Takashimaya, time to do a few laps of the basement food hall, where I seem to make everyone working there nervous that they might have to serve me.
Tram depot. There were signs explaining this would all soon be redeveloped and the area I am standing on will be a park with the trams running down one side. I say, don't do it, the old trams are more interesting than a park no one will use.
So I ended up hanging out with tennis players drinking beer who presumably lost their matches already in the Mitsukoshi food court. I do not know what the meat was, you would assume pork, but could be chicken, but to confuse matters the sauce is tartare sauce, which normally comes with seafood, so your guess is as good as mine.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day.. but sort of will be.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
母亲 on 2023-11-08 said:
肉是鸡肉
山雪 on 2023-11-08 said:
更 漂亮 的 树
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-11-06 said:
You seem to be eating a lot of curries this trip
jenny on 2023-11-06 said:
great photos today