Tokyo to Hiroshima by Shinkansen
Now I am in Hiroshima. It took 4 hours on the fast train to get here but it was 20 minutes late.
Today is also a national holiday, culture day. I experienced bad culture in Tokyo station.
Fortunately, I had booked my ticket a month ago, exactly, on the minute they went on sale, and secured a discounted ticket even, for travelling on a national holiday. In the Tokyo station today, the crush was particularly intense, made worse by the positioning of the ticket machines, ticket collection machines, please help me counters etc. all being directly in front of the entry gates. No one knew if they were in a queue to go in the gate, or to go to one of the different types of machines or to talk to a person who's job is to tell you that you were in the wrong line.
To make matters worse, there was a small army of men on step ladders with megaphones, getting in the way and adding nothing of value. Once inside the gate, I did not know which platform to go to, as I could not get close enough to a screen to read it, but I found myself in a line of 100+ women, which I eventually discovered was the line for the toilet. No wonder they looked uncomfortable with me in their line.
Eventually I found a screen telling me my platform, and so I lined up for the stairs and found myself up on the platform with still about 30 minutes to spare, so I pushed my way past all the people lined up for unreserved carriages all the way to the end of the platform for some much wanted clean air.
Now that I am in Hiroshima, the station is a construction zone, my hotel is very close to it, it is the same chain as my previous hotel, the weather is great, and I am eating crab snacks for a very late lunch.
Apparently train and hotel toilets are the photos people like the best, so here is inside Tokyo station, a less busy bit where I could actually get my camera out of my backpack.
And now for the first of 2 train pics. Pic one of two has 5 trains. The front of that train is filthy.
And as mentioned above, the station is being rebuilt, exiting was via walls of white plastic. Also, bonus tram. I think Hiroshima has the largest tram network in Japan.
And now as a special treat, multiple hotel room related photos. The first is my room. Much the same as the last, except the tv is on the wall at the foot of the bed.
And of course, the all important toilet photo, featuring another fine example from the artisans at Toto, the very same who bless the rains down in Africa.
And in a super rare treat, my room has a view. I am in the last room on the top floor, which is the murder room in most scooby doo related tv shows. But the cost for being in the cursed room at the end of the hall is you get a view.
Hiroshima shopping area
Let me check when I was last here... November 2015. It rained much of the time I was here then. Anyway, 8 years later and quite a lot has changed in the down town area, at least I think it has. Generally this means Parco has taken over entire city blocks. They seem to be the department store on the rise across Japan.
It was actually not as busy as I expected it to be, however the okonomiyaki tower place had a huge line going up the stairs, so I will probably save that for Monday night.
I think the station area, which is about a 20 minute walk from the main shopping area, has had the most amount of change. A lot more shops and big buildings than I remember.
Later I will do a forensic comparison between 2015 and 2023.
First I had to cross a bridge. The water was very still. No wind. On the way here today the pollution out the train window was horrendous, so a bit of wind would probably be a good thing.
Here is the start of the covered shopping streets. There are a lot of them here. Yes I know what they are called in Japanese. No I will not be using the Japanese word.
The local book off had a good collection of used musical gear. I do not know why I bother looking, importing anything to Australia would be a massive drama.
For dinner, udon, with what was claimed to be wild local vegetables, which I suspect was frozen vegetables out of a bag. For my deep fried surprises I chose pumpkin and lotus root.
And for tonight's final shot, the abandoned MUSTY underground mall. Actually it did not smell musty, it had distinct odour of leaded petrol.
Today's hike was a surprise in many ways. It is not a well known hike. There is no trail on google maps, nothing on alltrails, but there are a couple of 360 degree picture dots on google that show a trail. I resorted to Yamap, the Japanese hiking app, which showed a plethora of trails. This turned out to be a very confusing experience.
I knew my start point was Yano station, and that I wanted to end up at Kure-Portopia, but somehow I ended up on the wrong trail, early on, and found myself further east than the main trail. I do not really know how. At one point I arrived at Egezan park, which has a road going up to it and a viewpoint popular with cyclists, but this is not where I wanted to be. It was hard work getting to just this point as the trails were all riddled with spider webs, indicating I was the only person using them.
So I plotted a course from the park to rejoin the trail I wanted, only to find that trail was blocked off with hazard signs. Oh well, plenty of other trails to choose from. I pushed on and saw only one other person on the trail, an old lady smoking a pipe on a rock, I should have asked her if I could take her photo, oh well.
There were still a lot of annoying spiders webs the whole way, and the descent was quite tricky.
So after maybe 3.5 hours I found myself at Yakeyama park (which is on google maps), from where I walked down the road past a whole heap of flood protection construction until I got to my desired destination of Kure-Portopia station... which had an abandoned, yet popular amusement park.
I walked up through the back streets towards the hills in the distance, the sun was still shining at this point.
The first part of the trail was concrete, because there was a little shrine thing. Already cobwebs though. Cobwebs, spiders webs, spiderwebs? I think I am supposed to say cobwebs. Cobman, far from home.
I was definitely on a trail of some description, as there were occasional steps. Just not a lot of signage and no signs of recent use.
The is the view from Egezan park, cyclists were behind me. I could have run back down the road but I was not done yet.
Back to the trail for me, the first bit near the park was very well used. But then it was blocked off.
After walking down the road for maybe 30 minutes, I arrived at Kure-Portopia abandoned amusement park. That is a pool. It is green.
There were surprisingly high number of people using the abandoned park. All that was left was bike hire and vending machines. No shops were open.
For the final pic, the abandoned shopping street of the amusement park. You can sit in the old shops and have an indoor picnic. There was also some wedding photos being done in one of them. Today's hike was at times frustrating, at times technical, at times full of arachnid netting. But in the end, pretty good. I might be the only human to hike some of those trails this year.
Aeon mall Hiroshima Fuchu
Before we get to the excitement of the mall, this afternoon I had to collect my train pass.
I bought a couple of different train passes before the price rise, and I needed to collect and activate one to start tomorrow. Since I was last here, you are now supposed to do this at machines, rather than the travel agent window. This is a good thing, the lines in the travel agent places can be huge and slow.
So I went to the station, with my passport which is required. I lined up for the green machines. No option on the green machine to exchange my QR code for a train pass. Grrrrr. I re read the instructions. Green machine, press exchange pass button, scan QR, scan passport, get ticket. But the option was not there, and there is no passport scanner. So I had to ask the guy guarding the line, who shows me that 2 of 12 otherwise identical machines have passport scanners, and that I should go and stand behind someone using one of those ones and make them anxious until they leave and let me use it. So I did, and it worked. So there you go, not all green machines are the same, at least in Hiroshima station.
Now for tonight's minor non adventure. I went to a mall. I went to a mall I have been to before years ago. It was still a mall. It has 2 food courts.
But alas, I was comforted by the food court. My first food court experience of this trip. Taiwan had so many food courts to enjoy on my trip earlier this year.
I wanted pasta for dinner, I chose the more expensive place, in what would turn out to be the more expensive food court. Baller. So fancy that it comes with a salad bar. Or a sneeze bar as I fear they have become.
You might think my serve of pasta is tiny, but it came out on a joke plate. The salad bar plate along side it is a full size dinner plate. I mixed my salad in with the pasta to try and kill off sneeze residue from all those who used the salad bar before me.
OMG a second food court. And it is cheaper than the one I ate at. Mistakes have been made. I have many regrets. Actually I recall last time I was here I ate a cup of ice cream from this food court which is on the children's floor of the mall. A great day that was indeed.
On my way out I visited the actual Aeon. Their fruit was not peeled, sliced and plastic wrapped, so I was not interested.
Back right by my hotel, what I thought was an office building is actually a multi level electronics and book store. A kind of more upmarket Yodobashi. It was almost closing time, they were playing the go to sleep music, but I went in for a look.
Lots of interesting things, all very expensive, but then there was a guy bright red coughing, sneezing, choking, making growling sounds, and being held up by two brave employees while a third fanned him with a brochure, so I fled.
Which was a shame, because I wanted to buy a personal organiser, which are still a thing somehow, and I missed out on going to level 4, which is all fax machines.
Tomorrow I am going on a boat. The first of 2 boats on this trip.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-11-04 said:
no plastic couch and sneeze screen in front of the salad? I wouldn't have touched it.
adriana on 2023-11-04 said:
An interesting hike today
Miyajima Omoto course and Tsusumigaura nature walk
It was supposed to be raining when I woke up. It was clear blue sky. Still is.
I spent the day on Miyajima and took a lot of photos. Unfortunately the farmers have decided to burn their crops, so the view of the islands around the island was crap, but the hike is still really nice with lots of scenery.
My course was a bit complex, I walked past the floating gate and went up via the Omoto course, which brings you up to a ridge somewhat west of Mount Misen. After a brief up and back to gawk at the view from Komagabayashi Peak, I briefly joined the main route to Mount Misen, then the main route down. It is here that a huge 6 foot long snake darted right across the path in front of me, at great speed making a hell of a noise. A post heart attack google revealed it to be a non poisonous rat snake. It was way too fast for me to take a photo of.
After going most of the way down the main route, I then headed back uphill again, following another loop with signs saying Tsusumigaura nature walk, which ends at a beach 2.5km east of the ferry terminal.
It was then time to fight a few horned deer and after 15km and about 5 hours, my hike was over. Too many pics so lets get into it.
The ride over is about 10 minutes, with a lot of smoke to look at. Also you do now have to pay the 100 yen ($1) tourist tax to go here. This adds a lot of confusion for everyone, locals included, as you have to get that ticket from a different machine, and present it to the person at the entrance to the ferry. This fee is part of the governments half arsed program to limit tourism, seriously, that is what it is called. Miyajima exists only as a tourist place, so limiting tourists from going there via a $1 fee seems well thought through.
There is the gate in the water. Well, it is sitting above the water at low tide. Most people at this early hour were not too interested.
This is the best I could do for the pagoda thing. Most of the temples and shrines here are pay to enter.
Here is where I started my hike up the Omoto course. I saw no other people for 2 hours, all the way to where the path rejoins onto the main path up to Mount Misen. I was amazed by this.
Lots of dark areas with huge moss covered rocks. Why is there no one around? This should be one of the busiest days of the year.
I sat here taking photos and having a drink and some calorie mate block for at least 20 minutes, still no other people.
Here is where I rejoined the main path, there were a few other people but not nearly as many as I expected.
Inland sea, it is there if you squint. I have been fighting with lightroom to try and mask out some of the pollution. My laptop is getting angry with me about it. Very frustrating. This photo seems to have no colour in it for some reason.
View from the actual lookout seen a few photos earlier. There was a girl going up the stairs that seemed so sick I thought she would need a helicopter rescue. No mask, just projectile sneezing and full on phlegm firing coughing. I put my mask on in the summit area.
I went about 3/4 of the way down the main path. Still not that many people, everyone must be taking the cable car. It was near here that the rat snake slithered across my path at great speed.
This is near the bottom, where I was looking for my next path back up a different peak. Colour at last.
Some more fern view. Parts were quite overgrown with ferns. The ground was very sandy, so a thin canyon had formed, one foot in front of the other required.
That is the main part of Miyajima, the gate is there, just. I could have lined that up a bit better...
And here is where I came out at the hard to type Tsusumigaura park. There were a lot of these cabins here, but all were empty. They must be abandoned, if they cannot fill them on a long weekend with perfect weather, when would they ever get used?
The last part of my journey was back along a road, and through this awesome tunnel. It had fantastic reverb. I stood in it for a few minutes making stupid noises. There was no one else around!
If you come back this way, which is the wrong way, you get to go past bonus mini gate. And if you time it right, there will be a ship inside the gate.
Time for the ferry ride back. I stayed away from people, first hanging out here until I was told to move on.
And then I found a spot near the engine room with my own personal window. This ends my second visit to Miyajima.
Shintechi Okonomimura
Hiroshima is proud of their flavour of Okonomiyaki. I think it is my preferred non fishy kind. Always with the sauce on the top. They are so proud of it that they invented a theme park, which is to say, a building with a staircase, questionable fire protection, and 24 Okonomiyaki shops.
I ate here last time I was in Hiroshima, and it was good then, and it was good now.
Important note: this is the first place I had to use cash, it is all any of the shops take, probably as it is seen as a tradition. Last time I was here you could still smoke sitting at the counters, and most people did. Additionally I just learned, they all must use exactly the same sauce, as is the tradition.
It was a shorter outing this evening after 2 days of hiking in a row, both over 40k step days, so now after my Okonomiyaki I will eat some chocolate coated banana chips, which are not traditional, but still awesome.
At first I was planning to go to the Okonomiyaki theme park tomorrow night, but when I headed to this restaurant street and noticed most of the little restaurant only places were shut, I realised 'mostly shut on Sunday' might be a thing. All along this street are restaurants, bars, pachinko parlours and brothels. Only the Pachinko parlours seemed to be open. Do you call them parlours?
And there is my selection. I chose a slight variation which added kim chi so that it was 1000 yen exactly, because I did not want any coins. Also I like kim chi.
Tomorrow is not a hiking day, but I will be going to a place with a hill by bullet train for a day trip. Although rain is forecast so who knows, plans may change.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
on 2023-11-05 said:
also my favourite okonomiyaki.
on 2023-11-05 said:
Pity they have allowed a Starbucks on Miyajima. McDonald's or KFC next?
I've been to that beach in the summer. Lots of deer on the beech wanting to steal people's food.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2023-11-03 said:
My old hometown, still looks largely the same and still no seats in the underground mall.
mother on 2023-11-03 said:
the reason Hiroshima has so many trams is that they can't have a subway because the city is built on a river delta and the ground is too soft. They do have an underground shopping mall now though but it always smells musty and took a long time to build due to the extra reinforcements needed to stop water seeping in.